• Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DN80 System 1
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DN80 System 2
Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DN80

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valve DN80

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Type:

Non-Rising Stem

Material:

Body:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron

Wedge:  Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM

Seat: EPDM / NBR

Shaft: SS410

Stem Nut: Brass

O-ring: EPDM, NBR

Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze

Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron

Operator:

Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator

Face to Face:

BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10

Flange:

BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50

Working Pressure:

16 Bar(200 PSI)

Design  and Manufacturer Standard

:

BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043

Test Standard:

API 598  BS6755 DIN 3230  JIS B2003

Application:

Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC










Q:.The valve behind the toilet is spewing water (we have connected a hose to it and have it emptying into the tub). When we try to shut the water off from that valve, the knob or turny-thingy (the name escapes me right now) just turns and turns correcting the water flow slightly, but not shutting it off.The problem it that we can't find the main water valve outside the house. What am I looking for please?!? Also, we shut a valve off in the garage, but it was for the hot water.Help!
You can shut it off from there and if you feel confident with your plumbing abilities, take apart your valve take all those parts to the hardware store. I highly suggest either a mom pop hardware store or a local plumbing supply over a big box like Lowes or HD. The big box employees are NOT plumbing experts. I had the same issue with my valve when I bought my place I swapped out what I needed have never had a drip since then.
Q:This valve has flow indication embossed on their body.
the gate valve is a very important one in flow measurement and also used to help the measure of flow. for example if you know the pneumatic comparator operation, you can easily under stand the gate valve. the gate valve is mainly used for to adjust the float in the tube to zero position or the clearance value.
Q:I'm going to replace a valve guide and wondering how I should do it.Should I drill into the existing valve guide to the point it's small enough to pinch with some pliers and pull it out?When I put the new one in, should I use a wooden dowel and an air nailer to pound the guide into place?The more info. the better. It's my first time doing this.Thanks!
Ohhhh man. NO DRILLS. I assume you are referring to an Aluminum Cylinder head. To do it correctly you need a drift punch that has a pilot size of the valve stem, and an outside diameter that is just a few thousands smaller than the guide. Disassemble the head completely, put in Moms oven at the highest setting it will go to ( 5-6 hundred degrees ) Pound old guide out from the combustion camber side. ( have every thing ready to go this FFer will be hot ). Coat new guide with something like STP, put in freezer, carefully align it, then slam it home from the valve train side, don't pussy around, get it in before it attracts the heat of the head, if you stop or it stops you will have to repeat the entire process. If you gall the Aluminum ( say O-**** ) Since you have to hit this thing fairly hard you will need to refinish the inside of the guide with the appropriate reamer. Then refinsh Valve seat ( they never, NEVER line up perfectly )
Q:Could my subs kill my EGR valve? I replaced my O2 sensor and my check engine light didn't go off. So I had it checked again and the same problem was still there. It said that all the cylinders were running either rich or lean..... I can't remember. But I was told it could be the EGR Valve so I replaced it and for about a week the check engine light was off.Now its back on. Had it checked again and the same deal was going on. Oh there was also a low voltage reading..... which is why I'm thinking its my subs.So could it be my subs that keeps killing my EGR valve? And any solutions will be helpful. I don't want to have to replace my alternator because its in an extremely tough place to reach. And I already have a small Cap.... .5. My subs handle 600 RMS total. WOuld getting a bigger Cap help?
next time state year/make/model/mileage. most egr valves operate via vacuum. your subs can't affect a vacuum operated egr valve. if the o2 sensor didn't help out, you probably have a bad vacuum hose somewhere. that will cause the system to go into havoc because the car computer can't compensate for the excessive air being sucked in. a cap does not help with anything except for a loud THUMP. the THUMP causes a voltage spike and stresses the charging system. the cap takes care of the thump safer, it's not a complete solution.
Q:Between these two Blow off valves around the same price, what would be the best choice for a pt cruiser.
The Mopar Performance blow off valve is really going to be your best bet if the two are roughly the same price. The reason I say that is because the Mopar unit is designed to fit onto that car, therefore it is engineered to release excess pressure at a safe level for that engine. The Greddy unit is also going to typically require modification to make it fit and function properly. Unfortunately, what they don't tell you about universal units is the reason they are universal is because they don't fit anything until you make them to fit, you just have enough material and hardware to get creative with it. If you are looking to extensively modify your engine, then it may benefit you to go with the universal unit and just wait until you have your piping cut exactly the way you want it, this may give you better location or clearance using the aftermarket unit, but otherwise like I said, I would go with the factory performance BOV. If you have any further questions about your cruiser, please feel free to email me, I have had a cruiser for a couple of years now and have also done lots of customizing to cruisers for friends.
Q:I got a french horn, but don't know if I can just use the valve oil I use for my trumpet. please help, thnx in advance :D
Simply said: nope
Q:What is the purpose of the LNG Vs Propane Valve that has to be installed on Gas Stoves/Ovens before use ? How can I set it myself for Propane ? What negligible effects would I experience if I hook a stove up to Propane while the valve is set-up for LNG ?Thank You !
The difference is the size of the orifice. I've never changed it myself but I don't think it could be too difficult, however I've always had a professional do it for me. The reason for this is that propane and natural gas (methane) have very different Btu contents. Propane has a much higher Btu content and the orifice for propane is smaller. There is also a small difference in pressures of the supplied gas as pointed out below, but it is small. If you hook up propane while having the natural gas orfice installed, you may experience problems with incomplete combustion (soot) and the appliance getting hotter than design due to too many Btu's. LNG (Liquid Natural Gas) is a cryogenic form of methane. It is generally stored at -250 deg F. It is not used for domestic fuel.
Q:Where are the valves. And how do I fix it? Will I have to buy anything? I have a 98 Honda fourtrax 300.
Plugged oil supply to valve train. Very serious.
Q:Can someone explain to me what lead and lag time are? Also, what are the three flow characteristics? Linear, equal percentage but what is the third. If I wanted to have a minimum stop at 25% on a non-linear valve such as a butterfly valve, how would I achieve this. Obviously you cannot just restrict the valve by 25% of its travel as it is not linear
Hope this helps in some way... To start the 3 main flow characteristics of a control valve are Liner, Equal percentage and Quick opening (or fast opening). If you interested there are also other characteristics. As far as i am aware the lead time is the time in which a signal is sent to the valve and the lag time is the time in which the actuator moves and closes the valve. The pysical movement. As for your final question the only thing i can think of is to alter the actual size of the butterfly valve or put a reducer before it. Sorry if my information was of little use.
Q:I recently broke the valve cap on my tuba and i was wondering if any of you guys knew where to buy a new one or how much it would be.
you okorder has alot of things but i don't know if they sell separate pieces. Best thing to do is to go to your local music store and tell them and let them find you one,

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