Monoblcok Pump

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Fire Fighting Pump High Quality

Multistage Double Suction Pump High Quality

Submersible Solar Water Pump

Double Suction Split Casing Pump

Centrifugal water pump CWP2

IS Single Stage Suction Clean Water Centrifugal Pump

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

NFPA20 Standard Fire Fighting Centrifugal Pump

Monoblcok Pump

Monoblock Pump Advantages

1.Directly coupled, vibration proof and low noise.

2.Same diameter of inlet and outlet .

3.C&U bearing ,which is the most famous brand in China.

4.Circulating flow cooling ensure mechnical seal long life .

5.Small foundation required that will saving construction investment by 40-60%.

6.Excellent seal that is no leakage

Monoblock Pump Application

Apply as the transportation of liquids in the fields of air condition, heating, sanitary water, water treatment cooling, refrigerating system, liquid circulation, water supply, pressure boosting,sea water delivery and irrigation etc.

Monoblock Pump Working Conditions

Rotating speed: 3600r/min, 1800r/min, 2960r/min, 1480r/min

Medium: clean water or other liquids similar to clean water in physical and chemical properties

Medium temperature: -10 ~ 80°C,400°C available under special design

Ambient temperature: Up to 40°C

Range of capacity:1.8~2000m3/h

Range of head: up to230m

Maximum working pressure: suction pressure+head of pump≤25 bar

Monoblock Pump Construction

Casing/impeller:cast iron,stainless steel,copper,bronze

Shaft:carbon steel 45#,stainless steel

Mechnical seal:graphite/silicon carbide/tungsten carbide

Monoblock Pump Structure Description

Compact structure, most application for modern constructions.

1.Pump casing: the spiral casing with pipe connection is designed and manufactured by the most superior bydraulic model nowadays, with inlet and outlet the same diameter. Flanges conform to GB4216.5, and are equipped with Rp1/4 or Rp 3/8 pressure testing plug.

2.Impeller: closed impeller ,no limit to rotation direction under the water temperature below 80°C and 120°C.

3.Special design of dynamic seal ring ensure well seal and reliable operation..

Motor

TEFC air-cooled squirrel cage, 3 phase asynchronous motor.

Voltage: 220V,380V,400V,415V,440V,660V(other voltage ,pls inform before order)

Frequency: 50Hz,60Hz

Insulation : IP44/IP54/IP55

Protection class: B/F

Insulation modes: B35

Q: Our CRN series pumps used in the 414V 480V 60Hz 60Hz power supply, what would be the effect? Is not the head can be reduced, there is no water pump and lift what voltage relationship?: In the case of power, W=F*S. That is, the work done per unit time pump = the gravity of the water flow * the displacement of the waterIt can be seen that:1, the power is certain, the head and the flow is inversely proportional.2, the greater the power, the greater the product of the head and flow.Therefore, when the flow is minimum, the pump head is the maximum; when the head is the minimum, the flow is the maximum.

Q: I have to replace the hot water recirculating pump in my house. It is made in Hungary and the Manufacturer's letters look almost Russian. The only words in English are the spec's (amp draw, voltage, etc.) This house was built in 1998 and the plumber's no longer in business. It looks like it just threads onto a quot;capbut I don't want to start using pipe wrenches and just mangle it (it's very difficult to get to also). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike: particular you are able to. in certainty there's a recirculating equipment called a Polaris water heater which could furnish warm water for all your place carry desires and warmth your place too. the cost of operationg a Polaris equipment is extra cost-effective than an on call for warm water heater.

Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks: I assume you are saying that the pressure drops to 20 when no water is being drawn by any faucets, since that will naturally happen if water is drawn. Four things I would check - first look for leaky toilet float valves - the tank level will drop, and the valve will open periodically to refill the tank if the seal is bad on the float valve. Secondly, make sure you have a check valve installed on the supply line into the pressure tank to prevent water from flowing back down into the well. Third, you may need more air in the tank - I would put enough air in so that the off/on cycle was 60 seconds when one faucet was fully open drawing water. This would not be the cause of leakage, but it could increase the frequency of the 50 to 20 psi cycle. Fourth, I'd adjust the low pressure turn-on point up to over 30 vs. the 20 it is set for now - 20 is probably annoyingly low. Go for a gap of 20 psi from low to high - eg. 30 - 50 psi.

Q: my friend has a 2008 Buick Lucerne V8 model. She said its over heating, and steaming from under the hood. the engine is also knocking. Could this be a water pump issue or something else?: What ever it was it has the engine knocking. Its a little too late to wonder now. Sounds like it lost water and then kept running until she ruined the engine.

Q: Just touch this area, a lot of places do not understandFor example, I have a water pump, for 11kw, choose circuit breaker, then what model should be chosen more appropriate, it is best to recommend a Schneider, universal DW recommend oneCan explain in detail, better, I checked online selection manual, there are many places that feel fuzzyIn addition, 37KW, 22KW, 1.5KW each choose what type?Hope predecessors give advice: Schneider circuit breaker is not selected, I do not know how much current to drive the 11kw pump, and there is no other load?

Q: I am a business man.My Instituate name is Rockydockyard.This Institiate build up Ships,containerships etc.So we found a high pressure water pump.: Natural okorder

Q: I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX and i recently took it in to have its timing belt and water pump replaced. Since then, I have noticed a change in the cars performance. I have lost both gas mileage and power since i took my car in. The maintenance supposedly took the dealer twelve hours to complete which seemed a little odd to me. Do you think this is linked? I just remember getting a lot more miles to a tank of gas, and my car was about the same speed as a friend of mine's who now smokes me. Thank You.: It sounds fishy for sure. These repairs should not take so much time and if the timing belt is not synched correctly it can affect mileage. I suggest a second opinion by a pro.

Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?: It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.

Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?: Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo

Q: Im replacing the water pump in my 1992 toyota celica, and i cant get the pully off! i have been working hard for like an hour, i took the belts off. all i have is good old fashoned sockets and crescent wrenches. do i need to get the pully off? and is it lefty loosey and righty tighty or righty loosy lefty tighty?? because sometimes i hear they reverse it. thanks- jordan: you need to loosen the alternator and or powersteering and or aircon ,then yourwaterpump will come off ,do not have to remove any pullys.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit