low voltage rubber cable with competitive price, power cable
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
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1. Service Conditions
This rubber cable is suitable for A.C voltage 450/750V or below domestic appliances,power-operated tlls and various portable electric equipments.
2. Performance Characteristics
It is used for household electrical appliances. electrical tools and various mobile electrical equipments of A.C rated voltage 450/750v or lower.
1) YZ model rated voltage U0/U is 300/500 V, YC model is 450/750 V
2) Long time allow working temperature of wire core should not be higher than 60°C
3) " W" type cables have weatherproof character and certain greaseproof character and are suitable for outdoor working and the occasion with greasy dirt.
4) ZR-model cable has the property of fire-resistance. rubber cable.
3. Model Name and Usage
Model | Name | Main Usage |
YQ YQW | Light Model Rubber Sheath Flexible Cable | Used for light portable electric equipment and tools |
YZ YZW | Middle Model Rubber Sheath Flexible Cable | Used for various portable electric equipment and tools |
YC YCW | Heavy Model Rubber Sheath Flexible Cable | Used for various portable electric equipment which can bear larger mechnical force effect . |
Number of Cores & Nominal Area mm² | Structure mm² | Approx Dia. mm | Approx Weight kg/km |
2X0.75 | 24/0.20 | 7.50 | |
2X1.0 | 32/0.20 | 7.80 | 81.7 |
2X1.5 | 30/0.25 | 9.20 | |
2X2.5 | 49/0.25 | 11.00 | 227.1 |
2X4.0 | 56/0.28 | 12.50 | |
2X6.0 | 84/0.28 | 14.20 | 366.0 |
3X0.75 | 24/0.20 | 7.80 | |
3X1.0 | 32/0.20 | 8.00 | 97.4 |
3X1.5 | 30/0.25 | 9.20 | |
3X2.5 | 49/0.25 | 11.50 | 205.1 |
3X4.0 | 56/0.30 | 13.30 | |
3X6.0 | 84/0.30 | 15.00 | 452.5 |
4X0.75 | 24/0.20 | 8.20 | |
4X1.0 | 32/0.20 | 9.20 | 117.1 |
4X1.5 | 30/0.25 | 11.00 | |
4X2.5 | 49/0.25 | 12.50 | 255.2 |
4X4.0 | 56/0.30 | 14.80 | |
4X6.0 | 84/0.30 | 12.00 | 564.0 |
5X2.5 | 49/0.25 | 14.00 | 304.3 |
5X4.0 | 56/0.30 | 16.60 | 441.8 |
5X6.0 | 84/0.30 | 18.50 | 687.5 |
3X10 | 84/0.40 | 22.75 | 822.3 |
3X16 | 126/0.40 | 26.00 | 1075.8 |
Number of Cores & Nominal Area mm² | Structure mm² | Approx Dia. mm | Approx Weight kg/km |
3X25 | 196/0.40 | 30.25 | 1514.3 |
3X35 | 276/0.40 | 33.75 | 789.3 |
3X50 | 396/0.40 | 39.25 | 2880.3 |
3X70 | 360/0.50 | 44.00 | 3879.3 |
3X95 | 475/0.50 | 49.00 | 4974.5 |
3X120 | 608/0.50 | 53.50 | 5933.3 |
3X150 | 756/0.50 | 58.70 | 734.4 |
4X10 | 84/0.40 | 24.75 | 1106.0 |
4X16 | 126/0.40 | 28.25 | 1380.0 |
4X25 | 196/0.40 | 33.50 | 2011.8 |
4X35 | 276/0.40 | 37.50 | 2637.2 |
4X50 | 396/0.40 | 43.25 | 3634.4 |
4X70 | 360/0.50 | 48.75 | 4861.7 |
4X95 | 475/0.50 | 54.00 | 6245.5 |
4X120 | 608/0.50 | 59.00 | 7479.6 |
4X150 | 756/0.50 | 66.00 | 9302.4 |
5X10 | 84/0.40 | 27.25 | 1205.2 |
5X16 | 126/0.40 | 31.25 | 1688.8 |
5X25 | 196/0.40 | 37.00 | 2434.3 |
5X35 | 276/0.40 | 43.00 | 3290.5 |
5X50 | 396/0.40 | 48.00 | 4540.0 |
5X70 | 360/0.50 | 53.00 | 6455.0 |
5X95 | 475/0.50 | 58.00 | 8280.0 |
- Q: holes to route the cable through anyone have pics or a website so i can figure it out
- ye this is just a common problem on many cars/tucks not just ford. did a custom install on my jeep and had to cut small hole in front left insulation under dash. it came right out into open space under hood and made great place to run wire. if u cant see any holes/spaces to run it then ur gonna have to cut a hole ro have someone do a pro install for you. (ultimately its cheaper easier to diy - need power drill and a big enuf bit to fit wire thru. im sure u can figure it out, just go slow and be carful, mine worked quik and easy and sounds great. good luck w/ all that - hope i helped
- Q: my mac is fairly new, but is not charging. Are mac power cables this bad?..does anybody know if they need to be replaced often?
- Umm well we have had our Mac for about 9 months now and we have had to replace it once. So I think so, just like in iPod touches the headphone jack is screwed up.
- Q: I lost the power cord and USB cable to my HDD case. The company of the case is Intex. On a sticker is says, Intex HDD Case T-350 SA.This was posted a long time ago by someone, but it's the only place I can find the photo.Serious answers only please, I'm not asking if I should get a new one. I just want to know the information on the power cord and cable.
- It's a regular USB 2 cable. No idea what sort of power it takes. Can't be a very special power though. Your best bet is to get one of those switchable supplies from Radio Shack and try the voltage one at a time until the drive works. If you go under the drive won't run, so you can't do it that way if you start low and move higher.
- Q: I have an electrical source 220 Kv or 380 KV at site X and want to pull cables to site Y to privde electricity for this Y site for general lighting and power sockets.So what is the max distance for the cables i can pull from site X without voltage drop affect the voltage or power at site Y.
- You are not providing enough information. 220 KV can provide power of TENS of miles on reasonably modest cable PROVIDING the current drain is not too high. Sorry but the idea of anyone playing around with almost .4 MV without the first idea about loading / cable diameter / insualtion requirements scares the crap out of me! Without the required information, all I can say is With the right cable at 380KV , hundreds of miles As an aside, if this is a temorary site, then the cost of buying generator will be WAY cheaper than the cost of the cable and transformers you wil require to turn 380Kv into 110 / 220V If a permenent fixture, then suggest for normal lighting and sockets (as in no industrial smelting plants!), then you would eed to be dropping the voltage either at the 380kv site OR at least some distance from the new fixture. Houses do not typically have .4 MV coming into the cellar. It might arc a few metres you see if the air is a little humid. Make things a bit dodgy. **UPDATE** Ok, thanks for clarifying the voltage. Now we also know power too -so at 220v, and about 12KW we are looking at VERY roughly 55 Amps. 25mm cable ought to be good for a couple of hundred metres or so. 16mm for upto 50 metres or so. If a LOT further than that, then either go with three phase/380 OR up the size of the cable. Problem is it can start getting pricey. The shorter the run, the lighter the cable can be - to a point - would NOT suggest going below 10mm under ANY circumstances. You will always get SOME voltage drop, but providing it is in the order of a couple of volts here and there, there is no appreciable waste / heat generation. Is this a fixed installation or a temporary one - if temporary and a fair distance away I would STILL be inclined to sugges a genset hire might work out cheaper than drums of suitable cable.
- Q: When the tv repair company comes out do they take your tv power cable or have there own one for tv
- All TV repair people have all the power cables they could need. BUT... if they think that your fault could simply be a fault in your cable, then they may take it with them, though they would be more likely to try swapping it on your premises before removing the set.
- Q: I know Ethernet cable is much more susceptible to electromagnetic interference than fiber optic cable, but is fiber completely immune to it? I want to wrap a fiber optic cable around a 230 volt power line going through my attic for about 150 feet. Will this cause problems?
- Hi There, The 220 volt AV power cable will not cause any interference but it is not a good idea. The fiberoptic cable should be ran separate. It is a little more work but the right way to route the cable. You have to be very careful not to exceed the bend radius and wrapping around an existinf power wire might cause a problem. =====this is from the link below======= Do not install a fiber optic cable in a conduit or duct that already contains cabling, regardless of the cable type. Existing or new empty ductwork can be modified to accept several different installations by the placement of innerduct within it. ======================================... Hope this helps, Al
- Q: I just bought a new computer, a DELL Inspiron 530. It has none of the older 4-pin power cables from the power supply; only the newer SATA power devices. I have an older hard drive, that connects via IDE cables (the gray ribbon). Ive already bought the card that converts the IDE to SATA, and it is connected to the mother board. Here is the problem: the IDE Hard Drive is powered with the 4-pin power supply that Ive seen on EVERY power supply before this one. The IDE to SATA converter came with an extension for that 4-pin power supply. But the power supply in the tower DOESNT HAVE ANY 4-PIN POWER ADAPTERS. It has one free SATA power. Im looking to take the SATA power from my power supply, convert it to the old-style IDE 4-pin power supply (female) and plug it into the 4-pin extension (male) that powers my hard drive and SATA-IDE converter. Most converters go the other way... Please post links with examples of parts, since I cannot find anything that lets me do what I am looking to
- I am afraid you are a victim of the penny pinching that companies like Dell need to do to make the machines at the price you want to pay for them. I would always recommend buying from a proper store (bricks and mortar) and taking a good look inside before parting with your cash. There are plenty of suppliers out there who will build a PC for you and look after you.
- Q: when sending off an xbox, do I include the power cables in the box?
- dont send anything but the xbox! take out the hard drive all memory cards wireless and all wires before you send it back if you send anything else to microsoft they will not send it back they only send you back an xbox without a hard drive and a month of free xbox live no matter what you send them.
- Q: What fuse should I use to run my power cable to the amp?
- Measure the current (A) drawn in operation, increase by 50% and round up to the nearest standard ampacity: If the drawn current in normal operating conditions is 10A @ 12Vdc, 10*1.5 = 15A, which is one of the standard fuse ampacities (no need to round up).
- Q: I have a HP compaq laptop and a few months ago I started having a problem where my laptop sleeps/powers off when I plug in the power cable. The computer runs fine on battery but as soon as the charger cord goes in the screen goes black and the fans stop but yet the computer is still on.If the charger is plugged in when I switch on my computer I just get a blank screen. I have tried replacing the battery and the cord, changing the power settings, hibernate settings, taking the battery out etc.It's really annoying. Please help!
- Curious....are you turning the laptop off before you plug the power cord in??...
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low voltage rubber cable with competitive price, power cable
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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