Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire For Chain Link Fence

Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire For Chain Link Fence System 1

Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire For Chain Link Fence

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:

China (Mainland)

Standard of Zinc Coating:

GB/T 15393

Model Number:

HY-RD-02

Surface Treatment:

Galvanized

Galvanized Technique:

Hot Dipped Galvanized

Type:

coil wire

Function:

Binding Wire

Wire Gauge:

0.15-6.0mm,SWG,BWG,AWG

Standard:

GB/T 343

Material:

Wire rod :1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc .

Elongation:

more than 12%

Package:

Coil package or spool package

Zinc Coating:

zinc with 99.995% purity

Application:

Used in wire mesh, artware , metal hose , binding wire

Galvanized Wire

1.BASIC INFORMATION:
1.SPECIFICATION:BWG8-BWG32
2.WIRE DIA:4.2-0.45MM
3.ZINC COATED: 8-12G/M2(ELECTRO GALVANIZED)

4.TENSILE:350-500N/MM2

5.SURFACE TREATMENT:GALVANIZED

6.MATERIAL:Q195 LOW CARBON STEEL WIRE

2.ADVANTAGE:

OUR FACTORY HAS SPECILIZING IN THIS FIELD FOR MANY YEARS WITH THE FIRST-RATE DRAWING MACHINES AND OTHER PRODUCTION EQUIPMENTS.

AND OUR COMPANY WILL TAKE PART IN THE HARDWARE EXHIBITION EVERY YEAR.

3.PACKING:

COIL WEIGHTED 10-800KG SWAPPED WITH WAX PAPER OR CONNECTED WITH PLASTIC BELT,THEN PUT INTO JUTE BAG.AND OTHER SPECIAL PACKINGS OF CUSTOMERS WILL BE APPRECIATED WELL IMMIDIATELY.

4.USES:

USED IN COMMUNCATION EQUIPMENT,WEAVE WIRE MESH,CRAFTWORK,ETC.

Q: Source 115V 20A breakerI have 12/2 wire and want to wire this:GFCI 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacleI have basic wiring skills, just need reassurance. Thanks.: Comment: I don't know why john said to use a 6 piece of wire and wire nut the blacks together. Why not use the screws provided for wiring through? Why go through the trouble of making a pigtail ? Edit; I stand corrected.

Q: 2 long striaght wires (20m each) ,each having a 1.0A current going up.The distance between the two wires is 1.0m(a) what is the magnetic field (magnitude and direction) at a point o.50m left of the wire 1?(b)what is the magnetic field (magnitude and direction) at a point 0.6m right of Wire 1?: Assuming Wire 2 is to the right of Wire 1: a) Bwire1 = (u*I)/(2*pi*r) = ((4*pi*10^-7)*1A)/(2*pi*0.5) = 0.000004 Bwire2 = 0.000000424 Btotal = 0.000004424 (away from wire 1) b) Bwire1 = 0.000003333 Bwire2 = 0.000005 Btotal = -0.0000017 (toward Wire 1)

Q: I know that there are wired routers, and wireless routers. Do wired routers do the same thing as wireless routers, without wireless capabilities?: Most if not all wireless routers also work wired! Nearly all of them have at least four wired ports. The access point is the wireless connector, it just connects wireless capable machines to the exact same point within the router as the wired plugs do. A Wired router does not have the internal access point. With a wired router you can add wireless ability by simply adding an access point to them. The AP (access points) cost about as much as a full wireless router so you don't see them used very often but they are available. All the wireless does is eliminate the need for a local cable. Really that's all it does. Any computer connected to a router is connected to the router, wired or wireless makes no difference, although as a general statement the wired machines will be faster! So yes wired and wireless routers do exactly the same thing, they route local traffic for several machines to one broadband connection.

Q: Just got a 540 wat sound system but the speaker wires are only 5 feet, so I want to add about another 10 or 15 feet.: It is an easy fix. Get the same kind of wire that you now have. I live in Sacramento...I believe Home Depot or other similar stores may carry that wire. Cut the existing wire, peel back the covering, and expose each wire...at both ends of the cut. Do the same for the new wire extension. Strip each of all wires about one half inch. Connect each wire...you can solder, use a crimp, heat shrink, or just simply tape. It's not a big deal. When all the wires are connected, tape them all together so it looks neat!!!.

Q: How can I investigate the resistance of wire and how it changes with the length of the wireCheers: get a multimeter. get long lengths of different gauge (diameter) copper lead wire. for each diameter, measure the resistance. cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, measure the resistance, cut 1ft off, etc etc. plot the resistance vs length for each gauge separately. show that the resistance is linear in the wire length in each case. now use the different diameter data to measure the resisitivity of copper. resisitivity rho = R*A/L R = resistance L = length A = cross-sectional area cheers

Q: I have a audiofonics adf-240 and I want to wire it to 1 ohm: To wire an amp to a certain ohm load depends on the speakers..... not the amp .... the amp just has to be stable at the ohm load you wire the speakers to.....but there's your next problem , that amp is NOT 1 ohm stable.... Its 2 ohm stereo and 4 ohm bridged stable.

Q: I currently have a ceiling fan wired to a dimmer wall switch that controls the fan and the light, not good I know. I would like to set up the dimmer switch where it controls the light only and then i can use the fan pull switch for the fan. but i am not sure how to wire this with my current wires. In the wall box where the dimmer switch is I have two sets of wires coming from two different locations. one set has a black, red, white, and green. the other location has black, white and copper. currently the green and copper are connected and capped, the two whites are connected together and capped, two blacks are and connected to the black wire coming from the dimmer and the red is connected to the other black wire from the dimmer. how would I wire the dimmer switch to only control the light and not the fan? I want to make sure i do this safely.any assistance is greatly appreciated.: Ok, leave the copper and green wires alone as well as the white wires. Now the red and black coming from the same set should be your fan/light switch legs with red being light and black for fan itself. You may have to go into the fan ceiling box itself as it sounds the fan and light kit are connected to red wire in ceiling box especiallly if dimmer switch is controlling both. The other blacks are power legs. If both wires from fan/light are tied in with red wire, seperate them and connect the blue wire from light kit to red and cap off. With switch off, connect black wire from fan to those black wires that are capped off in box. If this isnt right connections, contact me via my email address on profile

Q: how do i connect ignition wire from fuse box to cd player?: your wanting to run a wire from your cd player to the fuse box?, ok, take a piece of covered wire, hook it to the hot wire of your cd player, run it down to the fuse that says radio, it should play on accessories and while your driving.

Q: i have a 92 saturn and bought the wire harness, i put all the wires together and all that turned on was the theft light that comes on when you take off the face after that i tried putting the red and yellow wires together and it worked, just without the key having to be in the ignition and i think that is why the stereo gets so hot so can youall tell me how to wire it correctly?: The red is the main power or acc power that comes on when car key is turned. The yeallow is for the memory for radio. Another word when u store a preset radio station that yellow wire supplies continues power to store mem for ever or untill u have to change batt. The reason y it worked when u hooked yellow and red to gether is they where both getting power. If one dosent get power it will no work. Check radio fuses for the yellow wire to see if it out. If u have manuel to car that would help. I had a mustang that with the yellow wire was dead i traced the wire tried to find the prob but could not. I ran a wire from batt to radio where the yellow wire hooked up. That is the same thing just try to keep the wire away from hot areas and door jams try to runn it through the firewall of the car.

Q: I am re wiring a hanging lamp. I know the black wire is the hot. My problem is this, the replacement wire is gold. There is no apparent groove in the wire, but one side does have writing on it. If I remember correctly the side with the writing is the hot?: Good that you asked. Polarity on alternating circuits does matter. The side of the wire with a little ridge on it is the neutral side and goes to the white screw on the lamp socket. The other wire is the hot and goes to the center pin. Wired reverse of this the light will still turn off with the switch, but you will still have power at the screw shell on the socket. This is how folks get shocked when changing a bulb even though the switch is off. Same with appliances. You think it is safe to open them and look around inside because the switch is off, but power is still present through the internal workings all the way back to the switch. Trust me on that! All electrical circuits, be they AC or DC are a loop. Break that loop anywhere along the way and it ceases to work. Not understanding this simple fact is why so many folks have trouble fixing electrical circuits. It is especially true with trailer lights. But that's another subject.

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