Galvanized Steel Wire

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(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)	Tensile Strength (mpa)
0.15-1.60	290-550
0.65-1.60	400-550
1.61-6.00	400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	Big Coil Packing
Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	ID (mm)	OD (mm)
0.15-0.26	6 inch	1-14kg/spool
0.27-0.60	8 inch	1-100kg/spool
0.61-1.60	12/14/16 inch	1-100kg/spool	250-400	400-770
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	450	800
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	508	840

(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)	Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )
	A		AB	B	C	D	E	F
	A1	B2
≤0.25			30	20	18
>0.25-0.40				30	25	20
>0.40-0.50					30	20
>0.50-0.60					35	20
>0.60-0.80	120	110			40	20
>0.80-1.00	150	130			45	25
>1.00-1.20	180	150			50	25
>1.20-1.40	200	160			50	25
>1.40-1.60	220	180			50	35	30
>1.60-1.80	220	180			70	40	30
>1.80-2.20	230	200			80	50	40
>2.20-2.50	240	210			80	55	40
>2.50-3.00	250	230			90	70	45
>3.00-4.00	270	250			100	85	60	30
>4.00-5.20	290	270			110	95	70	40
>5.20-6.00	290	270	245		110	100	80	50

Q: for standard electric wiring, do I cut the white wire or the black wire to not get shocked?: Standard electrical wiring for what? If the wires are live chances are you will get a chock if u cut any of them. It also depends what u cut it with, make sure u have some insualtion between your hands and the wire like rubber gloves or a plastic handle on the cutters.

Q: I bought a single pole dimmer switch to install in my dining room and when I took the old switch out nothing looked right. There are two wires which were joined together by another single wire which was attached to the top screw. There was another single wire (I believe the ground wire) attached to the bottom screw. I disconnected the first two wires and attached them separately to the black wires on the dimmer and attached the ground wires together. It didn't work. I've tired several different times with no luck. I put the wires back the way they were and attached them to the old switch and they no longer work ether. Help! How can I fix this problem? The old wires appear to be a very thick copper covered in black plastic and cloth.....: The 'answerer' Justin K thinks you have knob and tube wiring. A lot of early electrical installations were done in the old days with out a ground, many types of early 'romex' did not include a ground. You may or may not have 'knob and tube' wiring - but it really dose not matter. The two wires which were joined together and had a third wire attached are the hot wires. The other wire (lower screw terminal) is the 'load' wire - it goes out to your light fixture. The reason the those 2 wires were attached together is that one of them is hot, and the other wire is a 'feed' to supply power to your next switch or receptacle. I am an electrical contractor, this is how I would fix the problem - I'm not suggesting that you do it though. #1 turn the breaker/fuse back on. #2 use a voltage tester to determine which wire is now hot. #3 touch the hot wire to the other wires 1 at a time. The hot wire when it is touching the 'load' wire will turn on the lighting fixture. Mark the 'load' wire with some black electrical tape. #4 turn the power back off #5 attach the marked 'load' wire to one of the switch terminals. #6 take the other 2 wires (incoming power, and the out going power) and join them together with a third wire ---LIKE IT WAS ORIGINALLY. Place that third onto the other terminal of the switch. it dose not mater which terminals you use - it will work just fine.

Q: I want to install an LED and I need to splice into a wire.How exactly do you connect a new wire to an old wire? Do I cut it? Then what? Solder?: Soldering is by far the best method of connecting two wires. You can use the small clamp/connector methods, but they are not very permanent and tend to corrode and lose connection if ever exposed to elements or anything. If you can solder (or even try) -do it.

Q: The wire from the pinball machine only has two wires. How do I rewire the machine with a grounded wire and plug?: Just go to your home cente or electric supply house, and get as long as you need of 16/3 SJO or SJTW cord and a grounded plug, and replace the cord there.

Q: im gettin a amp and sub for my car and was wondering how would i make a wiring kit for it ... i have basic knolage of wires but thats about it thanks in advance: the wiring kit is usually: - low gauge cable of certain length (x2) - rca cable of a certain length (x1) - small power connect cable (x1) seeing as these things are already pretty much in their simplest form, I don't see the practicality of making your own wiring kit. just buy one.

Q: What are the effects on an amp when you use power/ground wires that are too small? I bought a set of 8 guage wires off of OKorder, and it stated they can handle up to 1000W. I'm using a Kenwood KAC-9103D amp, 500x1 @ 4ohms, 900x1 @ 2ohms, and 900+ x1 @1ohm (1800 W max power). My subs are Kicker VR8, dual voice coil, 4ohms, wired in parallel. Was it a mistake to go with 8 guage wiring? Should have I gone with 4 guage?: definite you ought to enhance to 4gauge. a million/0 in case you may locate the money for it. it's going to make a distinction simply by fact the bigger the cord, the greater advantageous the present pass. i could recommend finding into doing the massive 3 besides. keep in mind, it takes potential to make potential. N2, yup a million/0 for 4 hundred watts. i recognize folk working a million/0 to 4 hundred watt SAX200.4s. unlike maximum folk, I constantly improve so why even purchase 4 gauge and then spend additional money on a million/0. And why shouldn't I be answering questions? I even have sufficient recognize how and am sensible sufficient to run greater advantageous issues than Pyle and twin, :D

Q: how do i wire my sensor to my light: Normally it is black wire to black wire, white to white and ground (copper) to ground.

Q: I know there must be a difference, and reason why some wires have a solid strand behind the rubber, or some have several strands. can someone explain to me how it works and the differences in wire. m trying to get my head into electricity. resources would be good too.: you ask a fairly broad question first, the larger the wire, the more current it can handle as far as stranded wire, it flexes more during use and vibration and heating, etc. the solid wire is the smallest size and most accurate diameter if that is important such as high frequency

Q: i have a 97 chevy blazer. My fuel pump went so i purchased a new one. i did not know that the company changed the wiring on the fuel pump..all the wires are 2gether in the wiring harness and all i have to do is cut off the old harnss and wire the new one in its place. Im not sure exactly how to wire it. What do I do? do i just strip wires and twist them or what?: trace down old wires from pump / sending unit there will be one wire that goes to both the pump and sending unit....... that is ground ....mark old wires before cutting ....... then hook to same on new pump

Q: I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.: Garage door springs are part of the garage door itself, not the garage door opener. That said, it must also be added that the springs make it much easier to raise and lower the door. They generally last a long time, and they have only one function. But over time, all that lifting, through all those weather changes, tend to weaken the metal and lead to a break. In my case, the springs appeared to be original to the house, which means they've been at work since 1956. Once you understand that long record of service, it becomes a little hard to complain when they finally break down. And break down they did. It was a Sunday afternoon, and we were sitting around the quiet house reading. Suddenly, we heard a large noise that sounded like a very heavy object had fallen on the roof, or maybe a car had driven into the side of the house. I quickly started hunting around for the cause, and couldn't find a thing. So much noise, and no noticeable cause? Didn't make sense . . . until I went out later and tried to open the garage door. Even then, it took me some time to figure out that the spring had split. Once I discovered it (see photo), I knew I'd found the source of the noise. With a broken spring and a solid wood door to a two-car garage, you really can forget about opening the door. I couldn't lift it more than an inch.

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