Galvanised Iron Wire

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(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)	Tensile Strength (mpa)
0.15-1.60	290-550
0.65-1.60	400-550
1.61-6.00	400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	Big Coil Packing
Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	ID (mm)	OD (mm)
0.15-0.26	6 inch	1-14kg/spool
0.27-0.60	8 inch	1-100kg/spool
0.61-1.60	12/14/16 inch	1-100kg/spool	250-400	400-770
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	450	800
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	508	840

(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)	Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )
	A		AB	B	C	D	E	F
	A1	B2
≤0.25			30	20	18
>0.25-0.40				30	25	20
>0.40-0.50					30	20
>0.50-0.60					35	20
>0.60-0.80	120	110			40	20
>0.80-1.00	150	130			45	25
>1.00-1.20	180	150			50	25
>1.20-1.40	200	160			50	25
>1.40-1.60	220	180			50	35	30
>1.60-1.80	220	180			70	40	30
>1.80-2.20	230	200			80	50	40
>2.20-2.50	240	210			80	55	40
>2.50-3.00	250	230			90	70	45
>3.00-4.00	270	250			100	85	60	30
>4.00-5.20	290	270			110	95	70	40
>5.20-6.00	290	270	245		110	100	80	50

Q: Three parallel wires are each carrying a 4A current. ; wire A) is 6 mm from wire B) which is 3mm from wire C); The current in wires B and C are out of the paper, while A is into the paper. What is the magnitude and direction of the magnetic field halfway between wires A and B?I have tried using Biot-Savart Law but keep getting it wrong can someone please help? I also have an equation for two parallel wires but how do I relate it to two?: SO YOU HAVE TWO POINTS ON PAPER HAVING DISTANCE 2d. megnetic field zero will be on the mid point of this line. (there will be many points where the megnetic field will be zero but THERE IS ONLY ONE POINT ON PAPER)

Q: Okay, I just started tearing into my partially finished basement of the home I bought last week. Some of the electrical wiring is interesting to say the least.I have a junction box in the basement. One wire connects directly to the panel, another out to an outlet, and the third goes up and out to half the house. All of this is 14/2 except the quot;thirdthat runs up and out. This is wired with 14/3 but the third wire isn't connected to anything. Should I be concerned considering every outlet in the house works?: My entire House is wired with 14/3....and besides the previous owner doin it all by him/her self and making a few of the neutral lines live and vice-versa, everything works, if the third wire isnt connected to an outlet or another junction, etc., the last owner just removed an outlet or junction, and didnt cut the third wire(im assuming its a live wire) and as long as its not connected in your panel, you should be alright to either cut it and forget, or to maybe take out the 14/3 wire entirely, but if its still connected to your panel, try to find out where it went to and if it can be removed and not disrupt power flow elsewhere, as long as all the fuses are on, you can just test it and if it has no power, cut it, but always test for power, and from my lovely wiring mess, try connecting it with what should be a live(red or black) and what should be a neutral(White), just in case they aint.....else youll be zapped, and that aint to fun Or You can add a new outlet(s) if its still connected in your panel, or just make sure to cap it off, and remember the tape, it seems useless, but it prevents future problems if the cap becomes loose

Q: what wires are my speaker wires going to and coming from the factory amp and how do i hook them up please help i drive a 96' ford exploder: aamp of america has a psa interface part# BHA 5511. It works great The other way is to rewire from the psa to the radio. The psa is over the r rr wheel well (a real pain in the butt to get to)

Q: The t-stat comes with EIT module. that wires to the t-stat and the furnace. I'm having trouble with the module to furnace wiring.: from the thermostat you match 1,2,3 wires to the module, from the module to the furnace. - R to R (this is your 24V hot) W to W (furnace 24V input G to G (fan for cooling 24V input) Y to Y (cooling 24V input), there should also be another wire that connects with this that goes to the condensing unit C to C ( Common - must have this connected for IAQ to work) as with the Y, there should be another wire to connect to this that goes to the condensing unit. - maybe W2 to W2 if you have a 2 stage furnace, you'll know if you have a 2 stage furnace because the W2 connection on the furnace will be present. - maybe Y2, if you have 2-stage cooling. if you have a humidifier connect both wires from the humidifier selinoid valve to each of the HUM terminals.

Q: How can it be possible to create a high voltage and have a small gauge wire? Example: 3gj or 3000mw in a small wire (just an example): The limit on the size of current carrying conductor is the heat produced due to power losses which leads to failure of the conductor, the power losses depends mainly on the square of the current (P=I^2R) so in power transmission voltage is being stepped-up to high values to decrease current and, in turn, the conductor size is reduced. Theoretically we could step-up the voltage to extremely high values and thus we could have a very thin wire to carry the small current because P=VI so at constant power as voltage V increases the current I decreases. But there are also limits for stepping up voltage as the insulation is directly affected by the voltage. In case of insultaed cables, the insulating material (PVC or XLPE) will fail if the voltage reaches its Break-down Voltage. In case of overhead transmission lines (OHTLs) the conductors are insulated by air between phases and the suspended disk insulators each has their own breakdown voltages. It should be noted that safety regulations determine a safe distance of 1 cm per Kv that you should keep from high voltage conductor. This means that for a consductors carries voltage of 500kv you should allow a distance of 5 meters away from it for your safety as its magnetic effect is not exlusive on its surface but for a distance around it proportional with the voltage.

Q: whats a good brand for 0 gauge wire to get? im looking for a good brand that has 100% OFC wire, i would get knukonceptz, but their wires are copper coated aluminum which isnt as good.: Just get some 0 gauge at home depot. You are wasting your money with anything else.

Q: Who makes the best spark plug wires? i think the ones on my car are crap...they are Mag*star O.E. replacements, and they suck. What do you recomend?Its an 89 thunderbird: If you want the best spark plug wires get a set of Belden wires. They are the best without modifications such as enhanced coil,etc. While Motorcraft wires are OE, the Beldens are by far better and will last longer. Good luck.

Q: I want two lights on two 3-way switches.1. Power from basement box into light #1 with 12-2 wire. 2. Another 12-2 wire from light #1 to light #2.3. A 12-3 wire from light #1 to switch #1.4. Another 12-3 wire from light #2 to switch #2. Will this do it?: nevermind what I think....the guy under me knows EXACTLY what he is talking about! Do it exactly like he says. His way is better than mine was, honestly, because he has more experience. Thats why I deleted my own answer----we call that professional courtesy to seniority and its what electricians do when someone has more experience than we have speaks up. Now it doesnt matter what I think....I only have 22 years experience and someone with more experience than I has given better, sounder advice than I did. You should listen to him, not me.......or anybody else whom cannot match or exceed his experience. Or didnt you know that all Electricians are part of the same Brotherhood? This is why we always agree (or agree to be wrong). I was wrong, obviously, and my advice, second rate, compared to the advice you are about to get. So.....Pay attention! Wisdom follows!!!!

Q: we need to know if we don't connect the red wire and just cap it off.: Generally, a standard R 14-3 wire running from the wall switch to the ceiling fan will have four wires (red - hot, black - hot, white - neutral and copper or green - ground). In most cases, this type of wiring configuration is used to power the fan and light kit independently from one another. If however your new fan only requires a black, white and green - my advice would be to cap off the red wire - unless the new fan has a light kit with a separate power option. If this is the case, the light kit will be powered by the red, white and green wires. Good luck!

Q: ok so i wired the subs to the amp now, the positive (Red) goes to the battery, the ground (Black) is currently grounded to the metal under my drivers seat. My question is does it matter the color wire is that goes to the stereo? Can i use a red or black? Does it really matter? If not, where exactly would i hook it up behind my aftermarket sony headunit?: I was once considering of tapping into the 12v constant on the HU like I do in 95% of the installs i've ever achieved. Are you talking about the far flung wire connection? If so, you commonly mean the accessory wire, now not the steady wire; and to be able to be a hindrance within the Trailblazer in view that there is no accent energy wire in the radio harness. I might recommend using a line output converter that has a developed-in trigger circuit, so it will flip the amp on when it detects an audio signal coming from the head unit. There's no excellent position to connect a faraway wire in a Trailblazer with a manufacturing facility head unit. You could hook up with the accessory vigour output on the key change harness (a thick brown wire) however then the amplifier will flip off with the important thing, alternatively of staying on unless the door is opened like the radio does. The Motorola box is for the Onstar procedure, and there isn't a motive to do something with it at all. Sixteen feet of vigor wire maybe sufficient or would now not; depends upon where you position the amp. The battery and firewall access is on the motive force's part, so in case you maintain the amp on the driver's aspect of the vehicle, you'll in most cases have ample wire.

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