• Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality System 1
  • Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality System 2
  • Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality System 3
Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Ref Price:
$450.00 - 550.00 / m.t. get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Iron Wire Description

Galvanized Iron Wire has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. mainly used in construction as binding wire, weaving welded wire mesh or barbed wire, loop tie wire or baling wire and in agriculture and stockbreeding, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving.

Galvanized iron wire according to manufacturing technique, it includes hot-dipped galvanized iron wire and electro galvanized iron wire. Mainly telecommunication equipment and materials, medical equipment and device, weaving of wire mesh, steel rope, and filtration mesh, high-pressure pipe, construction, arts and crafts, etc.Hot Dipped galvanized wire is of more zinc coating, the quality is better than electro one.

 

2.Main Features of Galvanized Iron Wire:

• Smooth

• Corrosion- resistant

• Durable

• Widely Use

• Firm zinc coating

 

3.Galvanized Iron Wire Images

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality


4.Galvanized Iron Wire Specification

 Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

 

Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we are one of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire meshis a large-scale professional Galvanized Iron Wire factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world. 

 

What is the Technical Information of the Galvanized Iron Wire?

1).Material: super carbon steel

2).Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3).Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4).Thick zinc-coating layer

5).Super in corrosion resistance

6).Firm coating layer

7).Custom size available

 

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be enough for produce the goods. 

Q:On the wires leading to existing system I can see the main power lead. However all the other wires are different in color leading to existing valves. From the wire bundle two black wires (the only black wires) lead out to nothing and were left with no electrical end caps protecting. Manual says nothing on wiring valves. Any ideas on black wires? Or how can I splice in to existing system wires at valve point having one valve working at a time when system is operating? Am I going to have to get a new controler or run new wires existing controler?
As long as you have an extra colored wire and your controller will support the extra valve, it will work. I am wondering why you have 2 black ones though, unless one of them has a stripe. Normally multi-strand wire has only one of each color. To see a wiring diagram, follow the link below
Q:I need the wiring diagram for the factory radio of a 2008 ford explorer. i need to know which wires are for the back speakers so i can connect my Hi-Lo converter to it!? thanks
I believe this is what you are looking for, or should help... 2008 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Installation Instructions Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Violet/Red Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue
Q:Hi, I've got two new appliances (range hood fan/light and bathroom exhaust fan). Both are installed but not wired. My house is older, build in 1940s and the previous appliances were wired using the existing copper wiring which runs through the house. I'd like to electrically install these new appliances but am concerned about connecting the new appliance wiring (aluminum wiring i think?) to the copper wiring in the house.Is it safe to pigtail these two wires together? Or is there a better, more safe method?Thanks
You might find a holy war of electricians on this topic but to simplify. It is not safe to connect copper to aluminum wiring when the aluminum is SOLID core. Many new fixtures come with a silver colored wiring that is STRANDED and these are connected to copper wires as general practice without any problems.
Q:If you hang a pot-plant with mass of 8kg from two lengths of wire attached to a horizontal beam 100cm apart. The wire on the left has a length of 50cm and the wire on the right has a length of 75cm.What is the tension in both wires?
The tension in both wires.? If you hang a pot-plant with mass of 8kg from two lengths of wire attached to a horizontal beam 100cm apart. The wire on the left has a length of 50cm and the wire on the right has a length of 75cm. What is the tension in both wires? In the triangle ABC, AB(c) = 100 cm, BC (a) = 50 cm and AC (b) = 75 cm 2s = a+b+c = 225 cm s = 112.5 s-a = 112.5 - 50 = 62.5 s-b = 112.5 - 75 = 37.5 s-c = 112.5 - 100 = 12.5 tan A/2 = √ {(s-b)*(s-c) / [s*(s-a)] = √ {37.5*12.5) / [112.5*62.5] A = 28.95? tan B/2 = √ {(s-c)*(s-a) / [s*(s-b)] = √ {12.5*62.5) / [112.5*37.5] B = 46.57? C = 180-28.95-46.57 =104.48? --------------------------------------... 46.57? is the angle between horizontal and 50 cm wire. 28.95 is he angle between horizontal and 100 cm P is the tension in the 50 cm wire and Q is the tension in the 75 cm wire Equating the horizontal components of the tensions P cos 46.57? = Q cos 28.95 ? P = Q cos 28.95 ?/ cos 46.57? P = 1.27 Q-------------------1 Equating the sum of the vertical components of the tensions to the weight of the pot P sin 46.57? + Q sin 28.95 = 8*9.8 N 0.73P + 0.48 Q = 78.4N 0.73(1.27 Q) + 0.48 Q = 78.4N Q = 55.72 N and P = 70.76 N ============================= Or use Lamis theorm Angle between P and Q = 104.48? Angle between P and the pot = 90 + 46.57? Angle between Q and the pot = 90 + 28.95 By Lamis theorm P/ cos 46.57? = 78.4/ sin 104.48? P = 55.67 N and Q = (78.4/ sin 104.48? ) cos28.95 = 70.85N ====================================
Q:I have a 99 Dodge Ram.. The radio ignition wire is burnt out.. Can anyone tell me where I can connect a new ignition wire to??
There are two hot radio wires in that ram. One is the hot all the time memory back up wire and the other is the ignition accessory switched wire. If that wire is burnt out ?? you had to have one heck of a short in the radio and a way too big of a fuse in the circuit. That circuit is fused at 3Amps and the back-up uses a 1Amp fuse. If it is the acc. switched wire to the radio that is fried, I would suspect that the audio outputs are shorted. There just is not much else in there to draw that kind of current. A new wire from the radio to the fuse block sure won't fix the problem with out clearing the short first. Any way, it just runs from the radio to the radio fuse.
Q:The infamous headlight switch please help
What is so infamous about plugging the wiring to the switch? It will only plug in one way. UPDATE 8/6/11: In over 45 years, I've only replaced one headlight switch that had melted and that was on a 1994 Plymouth Acclaim and the driver had left the headlights on all night and yes it drained the battery. The plastic plug had melted but the wires had not burned through, so I had something to work with. There is a possibility you can find a wiring diagram on Auto Zones website for your car, they do have an extensive library or you could try to find a Haynes manual for your car. Or if you are low on $$ if you tell us what manufacturer, model, year of car you drive someone here might be able to help.
Q:Hi,I'm looking to change the outlets and the switch and light fixture in a bedroom of a home built in 1948. The outlets are original to the home I think. Will I have to fish ground wire throught to the panel box for my new receptacles? Or just install new 2 slot outlets?Why the different looking wires?Is the older wire copper with a silver colored coating to indicate being neutral or is this an old aluminum wire? The hot wire is red plastic coated and looks modern to me.
In '48 your house won't have a ground wire as you found out. If it is wired with BX cable ( metal clad) you can see in the basement or crawl space, the ground is actually taken to the outlet by the metallic casing. Then all you would have to do is get a bag of ground wires with screws already crimped on them at Home Depot called Greenies. You screw them into one of the holes inside the box and attach the other end to the ground screw on the switch or outlet. The red casing you are describing actually sounds like red electrical tape wrapped around deteriorating wire in the box as the other wire looks raggy. The wire you see that looks aluminum MAY be aluminum someone added in the '70's when al wire was used, but BOTH would be replaced and there would have been a ground wire. I don't know why it looks silver, but I have seen old wiring like that and it is usually copper. If you see the BX cable you are good adding the ground wire, if it is a silvery looking cloth casing, then install new NON-grounded receptacles.
Q:Two wires, 2.44 m apart, both carry current 2.2 A toward the bottom of the screen. The right wire is extremely long, and the left wire is 0.36 m long. What is the magnetic force on the left wire?
Magnetic force, F = BIL --------(1) where B is the magnetic flux density of the magnetic field caused by the right wire, acting perpendicularly to the left wire in Tesla I is the current in the left wire in Amperes L is the length of the left wire in metres To find B (due to the right wire), you have to use the formula B = (?0)(I)/(2πr) -----(2) where the I in this case is the current in the right wire, r is the distance between the two wires, and ?0 is the permeability of free space, numerically defined as ?0 = 4π×10?7 using eqn (2) so B (due to right wire) = (?0x2.2)/(2πx2.44) = 1.8x10^-7 T using eqn (1) and the value of B calculated above F = (1.8x10^-7 x 2.2 x 0.36) = 1.43x10-7 N
Q:I've been meaning to find floral wire for a DIY project I'm going to attempt. Does anyone know where to buy floral wire? I'm not sure if Michael's sells it. Please let me know from personal experiences.
This Site Might Help You. RE: Where to buy floral wire? I've been meaning to find floral wire for a DIY project I'm going to attempt. Does anyone know where to buy floral wire? I'm not sure if Michael's sells it. Please let me know from personal experiences.
Q:The power supply is at the fixture in this case. I have 2 black wires (1 is the hot, I connected the hot to the other black to continue to the switch. The other wires are 2 white wires, 1 red wire and 2 grounds. At the switch there are multiple wires, including 3 black wires, 1 red, 3 white and 3 ground. One of the black wires I know goes on to other fixtures in another room. My issue now is I cannot get my main fixture I was trying to change the switch on to work and don't know which wire to connect to the switch. Right now I have removed the switch completely so the other rooms lights will work. Here is how I have it set up now. At the fixture black to black, white to white, red capped 2 grounds capped together. At the switch area: Black (hot from the fixture) to 2 blacks, all 3 whites connected, red is capped, and grounds are together. Which wires do I connect to the switch to control the fixture and still allow the other rooms lights to work. HELP!
The key is the red wire. At the switch junction, attach the red wire to one terminal of the switch. Combine all the black wires into one bundle and pigtail off a length of wire to attach to the other terminal on the switch. The black wires are now all constant hot, and the red wire is the switch leg going up to the fixture. The white wires should remain bundled by themselves. The bundle of ground wires can also be attached to the green ground terminal on the switch if one is present. At the fixture junction, bundle all white wires together and do the same with the ground wires. Attach the red switch leg to the black fixture wire. The remaining black wires in the junction should be bundled together to remain isolated from the fixture.

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