Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality System 1

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

Ref Price:: $450.00 - 550.00 / m.t.

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 20 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 10000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Iron Wire Description：

Galvanized Iron Wire has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. mainly used in construction as binding wire, weaving welded wire mesh or barbed wire, loop tie wire or baling wire and in agriculture and stockbreeding, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving.

Galvanized iron wire according to manufacturing technique, it includes hot-dipped galvanized iron wire and electro galvanized iron wire. Mainly telecommunication equipment and materials, medical equipment and device, weaving of wire mesh, steel rope, and filtration mesh, high-pressure pipe, construction, arts and crafts, etc.Hot Dipped galvanized wire is of more zinc coating, the quality is better than electro one.

2.Main Features of Galvanized Iron Wire：

• Smooth

• Corrosion- resistant

• Durable

• Widely Use

• Firm zinc coating

3.Galvanized Iron Wire Images

Galvanized Iron Wire Construction and Building Aaterials with High Quality

4.Galvanized Iron Wire Specification

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

①Are you a manufacturer?

Yes, we are one of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire mesh，is a large-scale professional Galvanized Iron Wire factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world.

②What is the Technical Information of the Galvanized Iron Wire?

1).Material: super carbon steel

2).Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3).Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4).Thick zinc-coating layer

5).Super in corrosion resistance

6).Firm coating layer

7).Custom size available

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be enough for produce the goods.

Q: Basically I have a 3000watt amp, and I need to buy the right wires. Would I still manage to get the full power out of the amplifier with 1000w speaker wiring kit or do I need to buy a 3000w speaker wiring kit?If so, where is the difference with the higher wattage wiring kits.Thanks: 3000w amps are rare and expensive. Is that peak power or rms? Can you provide the brand/model? If it's ACTUALLY 3000w rms you need a high output electrical system with a custom alternator and probably a 2nd battery, and at a MINIMUM you need a GOOD quality 1/0 awg wiring kit. On the other hand - if this is 3000w peak the actual power (rms) could be as low as a few hundred watts. Amps this size will run w/o a problem with most stock electrical systems. A good 4 awg wiring kit would probably be more than adequate. Many lower level brands use bogus peak ratings to make their equipment appear to be more powerful than it actually is. Wiring is based simply on the thickness of the copper. Some of the cheap brands are less than honest about the size of their wiring. They get around advertising regulations by only using the word gage or gauge, not the wire standard AWG. If the wire you use is too small it will have excessive voltage drop so the amp will not be able to produce the power it would otherwise. More importantly, in extreme cases if the wire isn't fused properly it can get hot, melt the insulation off and become a fire hazard.

Q: I just removed a Australian light switch that I've never seen before that controlled a bathroom ceiling fan and the bathroom light. (both buttons on a single panel switch)I have a black wire coming from the switch box that has 2 other black wires splitting out from the connection point, one of each going to the fan and the light. And a single black wire going to the ceiling fan and a red wire to the light.I'm just putting in your everyday off/on switch one for each the fan and the light. any help? what are the positive and negative wires?: Here in the USA we use Black and Red for power (positive) , a white wire for a neutral and green (or bare copper) for ground. I am guessing that the red and black are the independent power wires and the other black wires are the main power. the use of a multimeter should be used to verify which is which. Since your putting in a single switch (which is a interrupter) where you have one black splitting to two, remove the 2 wires and make it a single wire and attach to the line side of the switch. Then connect the red and black wire for light and fan with a 3rd wire (tail piece) and attach the tail wire to the load side of the switch., Remember to test your power source first. If in doubt, hire a electrician. No one wants a fire!!!! Better to be safe then sorry.

Q: Would any body please let me know about Bank Wire and Bank Transfer system?: A bank wire is a telegram wiring cash money to a third party, usually directly into the bank account of the receiver. It is expensive, costing about $30 for a domestic wire and $45-50 for an international wire. The bank transfer system is a pre-approved electronic bank transfer from your account to the receivers account and is almost instanteneous and cheap (pennies, not dollars).

Q: have 0 gauge power wire, but don't have a ground wire! can I use the power wire as a ground wire if I cut a piece off?: Sure! Normally a ground wire is green so you can wrap a little green tape around the ends. Make sure you connect it to a bright metal spot on the frame of the car or go directly to the negative pole of the battery.

Q: i bought a wiring kit off OKorder it was a bullz 4 gauge kit. and i am running a rockford 500.2 n its rated for 700+ watts. so do you think my cheaper wiring kit is affecting performance? should i go snag up some bigger power wire for more power to run through it or is tht not how it wokrs?: you should add a capacitor to your system. a 5 fared should be good. it is a reserve for when the bass hits. it's less stress on your alternator and battery. and you won't get the headlight dimming affect when you have it cranked up. ask your local car audio shop. you should be good with 4 gauge.

Q: On what actually does ampere depends, thickness of wire or number of turns of wire or what else? Electrical: Higher current requires lower resistance in order to prevent heat buildup in wires. Multi-strand wires are not suitable for higher amperage applications. Stranded wires have higher resistance and insulating air pockets, which will cause them to heat up with increased current.. possibly to the point of melting insulation and/or causing fire hazards. Some stranded core wire uses material other than copper to cut costs, which further increases resistance. Large diameter solid core copper wire is the standard solution. They offer lower resistance and better heat handling ability. The trade-off is less flexibility and lower durability in moving or reuse situations.

Q: i got a fi bl 15dual 2 subwoofer. im wiring it down to 1 ohm.now for the problem. lets say im wiring the positive terminals together. am i suppose to wire it all with positive wire or can i also use negative copper wire? i used two positive wires and one negative wire to hook up the three positive terminals. is this bad? do i need to make all of them positive silver wires?: Wire is just wire. It alone does not know positive from negative. However, some great problems could lie below the surface. It really depends on what is on the other end of the wire. There may be some problems associated with not following a good wiring practice such as: Creating a short circuit and blowing the amp Putting one of the two speakers out of polarity with the other resulting in lower or no acoustical output. The best practice is to ALWAYS relate the positive or PLUS terminal with the wire with the same designation with the speaker terminal. That way, if you have to do any trouble shooting, you can trace is back and know without a doubt what is connected to what.

Q: I am building an ice chest boombox and want to wire a toggle (on/off) switch to turn the amp on and off....the amp is wired directly to the battery....my question is that I am using 6 gauge wire....but can't find any female spade connectors that are 6 or even 4 gauge to hook to the terminals on the switch.....what is a simple way to do this....am I going to have to solder the wire straight to the terminals?: Why not wire the toggle switch into the remote + wire? The one that turns the amp on and off with the head unit. 7/5/2013**** Leave the power supply wire alone. The thick 4 gauge wire that runs from the battery directly to the amp, leave it alone, don't put a toggle switch inline on that wire. Instead there's a wire from your head unit (or ignition) that runs to your amp, it turns on the amp when the head unit turns on or your ignition key is in the on position. It's usually 16 or 14 gauge. That's the wire where the toggle switch belongs. Look at your amp, this wire I am speaking of is probably labeled remote+ or ign or something like that and it's usually located next to your power and ground connections on the amp.

Q: when u first get braces do they put the bands and the wire or just the bands cuz im getting them monday: You get the brackets with bands and the wire. Rubber bands, though, come later.

Q: The wires I have are: 1 red starter cable, 1 tan wire, 1 ground wire to the engine block, 1 red wire to the battery, and 1 red wire that splits into the fuse and into the junction strip. Really need to know which wires go where on the solenoid.: The tan wire is the overtemp warning horn, should have a flat connector on it, connect it to the temp switch near the top of the cylinder head at the back. solenoid has four terminals, 2 large, 2 small. 1 large terminal gets the battery (+) cable *and* the red wire with the inline fuse (it provides +12V to the keyswitch), the other split end gets juice from the alternator for charging the battery. On the terminal strip, it should hook up to red wire coming from the rectifier (small metal canister-shaped device). It's best to secure the battery cable with a nut, then the red wire with a second nut. The other large terminal gets the cable from the starter positive terminal. 1 small terminal gets the white wire from the main wiring harness plug (it's the start circuit), and the other small terminal gets grounded -- just run a black wire from there to any good engine block ground. The small terminals actuate the solenoid, closing the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. To test the overtemp warning circuit, touch the end of the tan wire to the cylinder head with the key in the on position -- steady tone should sound from the buzzer located in the control box. Might want to take a closer look at your tan wire -- maybe the white one yellowed a bit. In '79 they changed that to yellow/red.

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