Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh Panel System 1

Galvanized Electric Welded Mesh Panel

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:	China (Mainland)	Wire Gauge:	2.0-6.0mm	Model Number:	RQL 2013101505
Type:	mesh fence	Application:	Fence Mesh	Hole Shape:	Square
Aperture:	1"-8"	Material:	Low-Carbon Iron Wire
surface treatment:	galvanized

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	standard export packing
Delivery Detail:	depend on amount

Specifications

1.Low carbon steel wire, galvanized wire
2.wire 2.0-6.0mm
3.mesh 1"-8"
4.ISO 9001
5.length do not limit

Welded Mesh Panel is made of superior quality welded mesh, with flat even surface, firm structure, be used extensively in building, food, agriculture and so on.

Assortments available:
Welded Stainless Steel Wire Mesh Panels
Galvanized Welded Mesh Panels
Hot-dip Zinc Plating Welded Mesh Panels

Property: Welded mesh panels enjoy such properties as corrosion resistance, aging resistance, sunshine resistance and weather resistance.
Forms of corrosion resistance include electric galvanizing, hot-dipp galvanizing, PVC spraying and PVC coating.

Wire Diameter(mm)	Aperture (mm)		Width(m)	Length
Wire Diameter(mm)	Inch	MM	Width(m)	Length
2.0mm-3.2mm	1"	25.4	0.914m-1.83m	The length does not limit
2.0mm-4.5mm	2"	50.8	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	3"	70.2	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	4"	101.6	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	5"	127	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	6"	152.4	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	7"	177.8	0.914m-2.75m
2.0mm-6.0mm	8"	203.2	0.914m-2.75m

Q: what does a #12 copper wire look like and waht does a #14 wire look like if you got pictures post a link thanks: actually a few years ago they color coded the casings of the wiring so that the 12 gauge is yellow and the 14 gauge is white. The difference is the size of the wire. Bigger the number the smaller the wire and the less of a load in should carry

Q: We added an AC to a preexisting sx 80 furnace and we are having a hard time wiring the new thermostat to the furnace, and the condensor to the furnace. Anyone know how to get a wiring diagram?? thanks: furnace will have 5 low voltage terminals,,R,,Y,,G,,W,,C...you have to connect R,,Y,,G,,and W at the furnace to R,Y,G,and W at the thermostat...so you have to use at least 4-conducter tstat wire between the tstat and furnace...typically you would use the red wire to connect the R terminals at tstat and furnace,,green wire for G terminals,,yellow wire for Y terminals and white wire for W terminals.. if your tstat wire doesnt have those exact colors it doesnt matter,,just be sure that the wires connected to R,Y,G,and W at the tstat are connected to R,Y,G,and W at the furnace respectively...if your tstat is programmable and requires a common wire to operate,,then you will need a 5 conducter tstat wire between tstat and furnace...the fifth wire, whatever its color,will need to connect the C terminal at the furnace to the common wire terminal at the tstat,,usually the common terminal at tstat is labeled C but not always.....as far as the outdoor unit goes..you will need at least a 2 conducter tstat wire to connect the Y and C terminals at the furnace to Y and C wires or terminals in the outside unit,,usually 24 volt polarity doesnt matter at the outdoor unit,,in other words as long as the 2 wires outside that are connected to the Y and C terminals in the furnace are connected to the [low voltage] 2 wires / terminals it will work,,unless one of the wires / terminals outside is clearly labeled as common.in that case make sure whatever tstat wire is connected to that wire / terminal is connected to C back at the furnace.....so at the furnace there will be one wire [red] connected to R....2 wires connected to Y. [ one going to Y at tstat,the other going to outdoor unit]...one wire [green] connected to G. and one wire [white] connected to W.....and one wire [common,usually blue] connected to C unless tstat requires a common wire,,in that case there will be 2 wires connected to C at the furnace.......hope i made it clear enough.......dan

Q: What's the thickness, or measurement for the last or thickest wire?: they change your wire according to how much your teeth have shifted around, so it just depends. the ortho needs to adjust the size of the wire due to your teeth straightening out and making sure the wire(s) are at a correct length. its really not that thick of a wire, so don't worry about it. :D

Q: does anyone know what wires go on which post on a 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 starter? it was off when i bought the car and im lost. i cant find a straight answer anywhere. a picture of the wiring in question is an instant best answer lol: it only has on wire and its not a very big wire shouldn't be that hard to find follow the wire off the battery to the solenoid then its one of the wires off of that

Q: for christmas im getting my dad an outdoor speaker system buttheunder groung wire costs ALOT so i was wondering if regular speaker wire will work fine if i used it and burried?: I okorder /

Q: I have noticed that a room in my house is improperly grounded, and it needs to be redone. We do know that most of the wiring is made with a single core, copper wire. Would there be a hazard with using a multi core (speaker) wire for the grounding, or should we do the wiring with a single core wire.: multi-stranded wire is used when flexibility is needed such as pulling a wire through a conduit with multiple bends, the wire size depends on how many amps there will be and you circuit breaker must be sized correctly. NO!! you cannot use speaker wire because the insulation on the wire is not made for the higher voltage, a speaker may use around 24V while a home uses 120V or 240V. yes you can use multi-stranded wire in the same manner you use solid core as long as it is sized correctly for the amperage and over-current protection device (circuit breaker or fuse).... and the insulation type depends on the location and voltage it will be used for, for homes there is not much to worry about, but if it will be used around chemicals, oils or other petroleum products... or for high voltages the insulation type must be chosen accordingly.... solid core is easier to work with in a residential home because it holds its shape when running through joists or going around a bend.... stranded wire would almost act like wet spaghetti and need to be secured more than required by code and is normally contained in some type of conduit.

Q: I recently took out my old ceiling fan, and now there is a Black, Red, And White Wire hanging from the ceiling, I bought a track light that has a box with a Green, White, and Black wire in it. Which wires am i supposed to connect,It's for the light Switch, and I'm not sure when the house was built, its a Reading, PA Row house.: This is really simple... The RED is the HOT WIRE for one of the two switches The BLACK wire is a hot Wire for the other of the two switches. The WHITE is the RETURN for both and of course the BARE COPPER WIRE is the ground. So... terminate the red.. Connect black to black, white to white and copper to copper. The switch that controlled the BLACK circuit will now run the track lights.

Q: Is it better to have a wireless internet connection or a wired connection for my ps3 online games?: Wired always provides more consistent performance, regardless if you're playing on the PSN or surfing the web.

Q: Say you have a 5 cm current wire carrying 10 A going from left to right. Directly 1 c.m below the left end of this wire is a long wire that is perpendicular to the first wire and goes out of the page. What is the net force on the 5 cm wire?I've tried using F=ILB with the I of the first wire and the B of the second wire.: I didn't read the question so I was carefully working out the force. The wire is perpendicular to the first wire, so using the right hand rule you discover that the field it creates is PARALLEL to the first wire at this left end. The magnetic force is caused by the component which is PERPENDICULAR to the wire which is in fact zero. So there is no magnetic force at this point. As you move along the wire you get a diminishing amount of magnetism caused by the wire which is going out of the page but that field has a component which is DOWN the page. Therefore that part of the wire experiences a force which is into the page. ( take your right hand, put the thumb along the wire pointing to the right, the fingers point down the page, the palm points into the page which is then the direction of the force) I would be surprised if you were required to work out the magnitude of the force in this context. You can't use F= ILB because both the magnitude and the direction of the field varies at different points along the wire. If the perpendicular wire had been directly below the middle of the other wire there would have been no net force. If you were of a level where working out the force was appropriate you would need to set up the formula for B at various points along the wire, taking the vertical component only and integrate this over the range from 0 to 5 cm. Not a trivial mathematical task.

Q: installing ceiling fan, when remove light fixture, it has 4 wires system, wires used: white red and green with one light switch, what is black for, it has a wire nut, but has nothing connect to it: Either way green is ground, white is common, red is live and black is live. It is technically irrelevant which is which but black and red are one each for the fan and optional light. If black has a wire nut on it leave it that way it is for the optional light.

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