• Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 1
  • Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 2
  • Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 3
  • Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 4
  • Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 5
  • Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump System 6
Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Fire pump cast aluminum electric high pressure pump
Material:
cast aluminum
Application:
Water
Power:
Electric
Color:
Red

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Manufacturing process:  

1.Stamping of lamination

2.Rotor die-casting

3.Winding and inserting – both manual and semi-automatically

4.Vacuum varnishing

5.Machining shaft, housing, end shields, etc…

6.Rotor balancing

7.Painting – both wet paint and powder coating

8.Motor assembly

9.Packing

10.Inspecting spare parts every processing

11.100% test after each process and final test before packing

 


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

 Pictures show

 

Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

 

 

Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

 

 

Fire Pump Cast Aluminum Electric High Pressure Pump

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Transportation

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FAQ        

1.Q: What is your payment term?

A: 30% T/T in advance, 70% when receiving B/L copy. Or irrevocable L/C.

 

2.Q: What is your lead time?

A: Within 20-25 days after receiving deposit or original L/C.   

 

3.Q: Do you offer OEM service?

A: Yes. We manufacturer can custom designed for any specific application.

 

 

 

 

Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?
Firstly follow the water to find the leak. The two problems may not be related. Assuming the radiator you bought was new, here are you possible problems/solutions. Radiator cap is a possibility. This will be apparent if you chase the leak. If you waterpump is begining to fail, you will generally have water coming from a small hole at the base of the snout where the drive pulley is (on most cars). The only way a hose can affect the ability of the cooling system to function is if the lower hose collapses when running. Check to see that this is not happening. If it is, replace the hose and make sure that the new hose has the wire coil inside to prevent this from happening. You may also have a thermostat problem. If the thermostat does not open, you will definately overheat. You cannot always check it with this method, but a good indicator is to feel the upper radiator hose before and after starting the engine (when warmed up). Before starting the engine, the hose should be fairly flexible and easy to squeeze. After starting, and being warmed up, it should get fairly stiff due to the flow going through the hose. Don't forget that the hose will be over 200 degrees, so be careful.
Q: How long would it take before I would see water coming out of the exhaust bellow? I let it run for about 5 seconds or so and shut it of fearing it would burn up. Did this a few times and finally gave up. Pump wasn't hot and impeller was still good. Wondering if I just didn't let it run long enough?
i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.
Q: My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.
the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop
Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
All good answerers here. I would drain down the pump, remove the pressure switch and also remove the nipple that it screws on to and clean it out. Now put the pressure switch and nipple back in. At the top of your pressure tank there is an air valve. Take a tire gauge and read the pressure. If your pressure switch was a 30/50 there should be 27 to 28 lbs of air in your tank. If water comes out, your tank is water logged and needs to be replaced. If it's low on add to 27-28 lbs. Hopefully this will take care of your problem, it not send more info about what happened. Pay attention to the readings your pressure guage. Good Luck!!
Q: What's so good about having a water pump on my stand alone ice maker?What exactly does it do?
I imagine there is also a filtration system on the ice maker so you get clean filtered chilled water on tap instead of buying bottled water or waiting for a filter jug to do its work.Though I find tap water cold enough and tastes ok
Q: i want details and requirement of it in water pump
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awBzE A very good foot valve will cost about $20 then it will be the cost of a service call, here we charge about $70 but depending on where you live, how deep the valve is and where its located the price maybe different, and the cost maybe more on a weekend too. Giving quotes for this is not really profitable for service companies, so if you are not prepared to do it yourself then you will have to pay the service call rate. A good reputable company will arrive at your home and give you an approximation on what it will cost, but remember once you call them there you will probably have to pay the service call rate, if you are running tight on money call around and ask the rates but remember that this is a weekend and most companies will be running a small crew and might take time to answer your call. The other option is since you have changed the pump yourself why not just change the foot valve your self? Have you primed the pump after replacement? To replace the valve the pipe that runs to the bottom of your well must be pulled up and the valve is on the bottom of it, its a simple matter of removing the old one and replacing with new the big job is usally the pulling up of the pipe.
Q: i have an underground water tank, my jet pump went out again, got a new one, waiting for the guy to come install it. i got an old fashioned iron hand pump, for when the electric, or the pump goes out again, i can pump out water. got pipes, fittings, foot valve. i just dont know what kind of base to make ,to bolt pump to, over the pipe that will come out of the ground. any ideas?
you can make a wooden floor cover using a treated good lumber of 1 X 6 for the floor and 2 X 6 lumber for the floor joist. assemble the 2X6 lumber for the floor joist. depending on the top area of your water tank. arrange the floor joist at 0.60 meter spacing and 1.2 meter braces. after that, use 1X6 lumber as flooring with at least 2 cm spacing between lumber. as on the base of your pump, you can reinforce it by adding 2X6 braces. use a lug bolt depending on the size of the slot at the base of your pump then bolt it on top of the 1X6 flooring. its better if we can draw it here to make it easier to understand and explain i dont know if this can help much because we havent seen the actual situation of your tank and your pump.
Q: In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed
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Q: Every time i turn off the engine i hear like liquid noises behind the dash board in the drivers side. My fan isnt working properly but i just took a trip...4 hours away.. on the highway the temperature would be fine but on regular streets my temperature goes high pretty fast..i have been putting anti freeze pretty often lately because it goes low but there is no signs of a leak anywhere. Could it just be that my fan isnt working properly or is it because the water pump is going bad? or both? I have a 93 Toyota celica
Not it's because you have a cracked cylinder head. Does the exhaust spew out a lot of white smoke? Edit: Having a blown head gasket does not explain the missing coolant. If you had a misfire or the engine was struggling a little then yes the head gasket would explain that. If you've never seen white smoke from the exhaust or under the hood, then I would say it is because the fan is not working properly. The gurgling that you hear is the boiling water going from the radiator to the reservoir tank. It is probably overfilling the reservoir tank and evaporating as well.

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