• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with Best Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Products Introduction:

Our fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.


Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..


Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water   absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet   expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding   strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.




Q: What is the cement pressure plate, what is the use of it?
With light, high strength, waterproof, anti-corrosion, fire, large format, good processing, improve construction efficiency and so on. Widely used in civil and industrial buildings. Can be used for building floor, interior wall panels, exterior panels, ceiling panels, curtain wall panels, composite wall panels, insulation materials, roofing and other parts.
Q: How does the cement pressure plate hang on the old wall with paint?
Cement pressure plate from the fiber, cement, quartz sand, additives, water and other inorganic substances, by mixing molding, high temperature and pressure steaming and special technical treatment and made a variety of thickness, high density sheet, 100% non-asbestos and other harmful Material, with high strength, large format, light, fire, waterproof and other excellent performance of the new environmentally friendly building materials.
Q: What kind of cirrcular saw blade do I use to cut cement board?
you can use a diamond blade to cut cement boards, gets pretty dusty though but can be pretty helpful when there are a lot of obstructions to cut around
Q: Sorry for the double post, this is an addendum to my previous question. I am planning to re-tile the downstairs foyer. Since it's on the 1st floor of a townhouse with no basement I think there's cement slab underneath, but if I need backer board I need to purchase and make arrangements to cut (I don't own a saw yet). I'd like to take a couple tiles off to check, but how can I tell the difference between the two?
You won't be able to pound a nail into the concrete.
Q: Cement fiberboard dry hanging practice?
To see where you use, if the wall in the words of the channel and angle iron with the wall of the bracket, and then the cement board with nails fixed to the bracket above, and then inside the insulation material filling, etc., if it is inside The wall of the words with a good light steel keel on it, and then insulation or sound insulation of the material
Q: Aluminum-plastic board Aite board lighting board are used in what place
Aluminum plate and the purpose of the board should be roughly the same, such as the inner wall and the wall and cut off! The But the Etter board is the fiber cement board can do LOFT mezzanine.
Q: am Laying Floor Tile and was Wondering if the Mesh Tape for Cement Board is the Same as you use for Drywall?
You do not need mesh, you can use thin-set mortar between the cracks.
Q: I know it sounds odd but if you set a cement block between to supports and hit it with your fist its really not hard at all to break it. Why is it that a 1 thick cement block breaks easier than a 1 thick piece of pine. Also it seems like maybe its just me but if you hit a 1 thick oak board your fist doesnt have to be in contact as long to break it. With the cement block it doesn't take much to make it break.
density. wood is long strands of thick, dense fiber essentially strung together, cement is a mix of individual rocks with a water/concrete bonding, but there is air mixed in during the mixing process. there are more areas in between the rocks to be weaker, less dense. this may be a bad example.. but liken it to a bathtub with water that is iced over completely, and a bathtub with only ice water.. in between the ice, you can put your hand through, because it is essentially water and less dense than the ice... but with the completely covered ice water, you cannot easily put your hand through.. . i guess also i was thinking of a game of red rover if you have ever played it, it is easier to run through when the other team is holding hands, than when they link elbows.. essentially making the bond stronger with bigger parts of the arm.
Q: Is there a easy method to apply hydraulic water stop cement to the area where the wall meets the floor without making a mess. Thank you very much
No easy way that I know of. Work Fast and only mix a small batch at a time. I've used it and it sets very quickly. It heated up the can I mixed it in, to where I could not hold it without a pot holder glove. It works excellent, but you have to mix and spread quickly.
Q: I've taken up old linoleum tile, chip board, and two other layers of linoleum to get down to an oak floor in my bathroom. This has a felt-like paper uniformly adhered to it that must have been the backing for the first linoleum layer. I'm going to put down Hardi-backer, then tile. Do I have to take up the old tile backing material before I put down the hardibacker? It's very difficult to remove. Thanks!
I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.

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