• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with Best Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Products Introduction:

Our fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.


Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..


Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water   absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet   expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding   strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.




Q: Hi, I have an outside breezeway that connects from my house to my garage with a roof and cement slab. I'm in the process of closing it in and making it part of my house(fully heated). I'm going to tile the floor but I'm not going to have a sub floor to insulate under it, I worry about moisture, cold floor and cracking of tiles (I live in Michigan).So my question is I'm not sure on how to go about this, I was thinking a 1/4 to 3/8 insulation rolled on the slab, then cement board and then thermostat controlled heating mat then tile, What do you think, thanks.
All of that is not necessary if the cement is not cracking from moisture. If it is, then I say go for it, at least you will have warm feet.
Q: do you have to tape cement board before tiling?
you dont have to but the idea is to fill and fiberglass tape the seams keeping them ridged so that in years to come the grout doesnt crack out. Yet thats something rather new, you should be fine just filling any of the voids with mastic adhesive as you lay them. A portland cement mix works well on durarock, and the new backer board, though drywall quickset works just as well.
Q: the neighbor has a son and him and his friends constantly makes noise instigating trouble. I complain to the manager, it stops and than starts back up again a week later, so I rather put up something that can help
it helps a little, but sheetrock would be a better choice and cheaper to install. Or soundboard, which is designed specifically for situations such as you describe. Check with a contractor for the best solution to your problem and if you have saved any correspondence with the landlord/manager, then deduct the cost you incur from your rent. Should you still be required to pay your full rent, sue in small claims court for your cost--which you had to make because the manager/landlord refused to correct the problem. Good luck.
Q: What is the average price for hardieplank(cement board) installation?
Anywhere from $10 to $15 per square foot depending upon how cut up it is. Large walls with not many cuts - $10. Small expanses with lots of angles and cutting - $15 of more if really complex. This includes the hardie product, the water proofing and the fasteners.
Q: This is when you are installing tiles over existing cement patio. Idk if it's a board, it seemed bendable. I saw it on HGtv And I can't remember what it's called
Made by Schluter tile systems and I believe what your referring to Ditra, Flexible orange mat. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there, GK
Q: I've already got the cement board down, taking it back up would mean messing with the toilet flange, which means plumbing, and that sucks. Plywood was in pretty good condition. Thanks in advance!
Just use a bunch of screws to hold the cement board in place. If you do this it will be just fine.
Q: Looking to connect a piece of plywood between two boards to hang a banner
I am okay with the 5 gallons of concrete, that will weigh close to 100 lbs per bucket. I would use 1.5 - 2 inch pvc pipe, not 2x4's. That will give you better flex. For the banner, it is up so high that the wind loading and leverage will be a problem if you tie all four corners. So just connect the two poles with a rope at the top and hang the sign from the rope. This way in a wind, the bottom will just blow free. If you must tie the banner at 4 corners, you need a flatter container of concrete. An old tire, filled with concrete, will work for this purpose. Put a piece of plywood across the tire so it will hold the concrete. That's what we used for tether ball.
Q: Home improvement wall is made of light steel keel + gypsum board, light steel keel + cement pressure plate is good or red brick light weight brick good?
Encountered this situation we generally use double gypsum board on the line, there is a cement to do the hollow board is also good, that is not easy to sell! The
Q: How to fix the cracks in the ceiling
The floor part of the ride will be 15cm wide leveling layer chisel, in the structure of the board surface along the cracks into the mouth about 2cm wide V-shaped section of the incision, the parts clean, after the use of epoxy resin to fill the plate flat , Ride sticky sticky 10cm wide paste carbon fiber, and then re-leveling layer will be poured, surface layer of light.
Q: We have a home built in 1999 in the Gulf Coast area. On either side of the front entrance are flat cement board posts and above is a lintel. Last year I noticed the lintel was starting to have a gap between the brick and lintel itself as well as pulling away the top of one of the posts. I used heavy-duty exterior adhesive to try to reattach (used the ladder against it as pressure). I caulked and painted afterwards. Now, the separation is back, but much worse. I'm not even sure who to call to look at this. If I know why this happened, I could better figure out the next steps. Any ideas (I can find nothing through my research).
it sounds like subsidance , the house is sinking /settling this could be a very serious problem if the foundations are sub standard you need to get an engineer to carry out a survey now to acess whats the cause of the movement

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