• Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005 System 1
  • Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005 System 2
  • Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005 System 3
  • Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005 System 4
  • Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005 System 5
Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005

Fiber Cement board for villas,high building-005

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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The fiber cement board includes two series:  solid fiber cement board(S series) and hollow fiber cement board (K series)

 

Fiber cement board is one new type wall board which is both functional and decorative, with idea of high- tech and innovation, the products combine the traditional and modern science and technology, which provide a brand  new green wall decoration material to the exterior wall field.

 

K series

3000 * 300* 15mm

3000* 450* 18mm

3000*600* 26mm

 

K series—Streak board

 

3000*300*18mm

3000*300*22mm

3000*600*26mm

 

The colors are based on customer’s choice.

 

Fiber cement board: exterior wall decoration system

This system is widely used in public building and high end residential and other kinds of civil construction of exterior wall decoration. In existing buildings exterior wall decoration, the fiber cement board can be directly mounted to the exterior wall by keel, and not need to remove the original façade decoration materials. This system could give the construction quick speed, low transformation cost and good decorative effect.

 

Fiber cement board: exterior wall heat preservation system.

This system can meet different design requirements for energy- saving. The system has excellent heat preservation and heat insulation performance, meanwhile, the mass production and quality control of the products overcomes the crack problem occurred in other external insulation system. The system are mainly used in energy saving renovation to existing building or the external wall thermal insulation of new construction.

 

Fiber cement board composite wall system has good heat preservation, heat insulation and sound insulation performance, which make the system become an high and energy saving wall retaining system. The system could be applicable to the façade of steel or wood frame villa, and non bearing exterior wall for structural frame work or other frame structure.

 

 

 

 

Q: Fiber cement board and glass magnesium board how to distinguish
Ingredients: glass magnesium board for the magnesium oxide, magnesium chloride chemical reaction products, is one. Cement fiberboard is a cement, yellow sand aggregate, is a physical reaction.
Q: Is the Etter board available for exterior finishes?
Can be used outside the finishes, Etter board is a fiber reinforced silicate plate (fiber cement board), the main raw material is cement, plant fiber and minerals, by the high pressure autoclave made of high pressure.
Q: We are redoing a small bathroom and I want to redo the old tile and also add some additional tile around some of the other walls. We are planning to use cement board around the tub, but do I need to rip out existing wallboard around the vanity and other walls where I want to add new tiles and replace it with cement backer board? Or should I just add the cement board on top of the existing wallboard in the places I want to add new tile ( I was thinking about maybe tiling halfway up some of the other walls). Thanks!
First take some rough sandpaper like an 80 grit to rough up the wall that is painted, then use a mastic type adhesive like Acrylpro ceramic tile adhesive from Home Depot. It is $6 for a quart or $13 for a gallon. Use the correct size trowel suggested on the bucket for your tile size. Follow the directions and you will be fine. You would only use Hardibacker or Durock in a shower or bath tub enclosure where heavy use of water goes on. Then you would use the screws made for that product and use thinset adhesive instead of mastic.
Q: the cement boards are ahold by 1 nails
Hardyboard is a composite/concrete siding that may work. If your boards are only slightly damaged you may be able to patch them with concrete patch then repaint. A lot cheaper than replacing.
Q: When I was replacing vanity in small bathroom, I discovered that old vanity was sitting on top of the wooden sub-floor while the rest of the floor (with ceramic tile) is about whole inch above the sub-floor. I'm planning to install tile (never did it before) and I've read that you attach cement backer board to sub-floor and use adhesive to attach tiles. However cement boards are sold in 1/2 thickness. What should I do to make whole sandwich (board, adhesive, tile) to be on the same level as rest of the tile floor? I'd much appreciate any suggestions! :)
Screw down a piece of 1/2 plywood to the subfloor and then screw down the cement board on top of that. If you are still a tad low you can always spread on a layer of thinset mortar to bring it up to the same height as the rest of the floor. Whenever I do a bathroom I always remove the vanity and tile under it just like the rest of the room. That way, everything is level and if you ever want to replace the vanity with a smaller one or a pedestal sink the floor is good to go. What I have found, and you have found too, is that most people are just too damned lazy to bother doing that.
Q: the cement board is made of cement-bonded paper sludge
I'm not sure but, I know under direct heat concrete tends to explode.
Q: I am buying materials for the shower pan and all the other things I need but am not sure what thickness of cement board to use for the shower walls. I am covering it with tile, if that matters. Thanks
you can install the orange sheets on the walls, over the cement board (using mortar), and install the floor pan over cement board with mortar as well. when done correctly, its 100% water tight. it even comes with a curb which you can tile over. its a great system, the floor pan is already sloped towards the drain in the centre. it would not be worth it to do a shower without it. if you do it this way, it will last and you will not risk mould or rot.
Q: I came into many buckets of GAF TOPCOAT liquid which says it can be sprayed onto a roof or rolled on. I've only found one other idea for the walls in my wet room/shower area which is flexcement that is waterproof. Is it a good idea to try this or not. Really don't want to mess it up after putting much money into the walls as is. Here is the site that describes the product.
Since you ve gotten this product at no cost ( by the way you describe it), and I looked at the web site, I d say yes it is ok to use. I ve always used a specific waterproofing called Red Guard.And I know water proofing isn t cheap. Since this is a brush or spray on type of coating, it will be thin enough to get a nice smooth layer for tile. I would check and make sure its ok for vertical walls application. But I strongly suggest using the strongest latex modified thin set there is. This is what I need to bond to the Red Guard I use. Another suggest and I have to do this too, is to tape all areas with thin set and cement board tape and let dry. Getting all areas. Good time to think about a recessed shelf for shampoos and soaps. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: Ok, here's the situation:I have a covered porch on our house, and I need to replace its floor. Facts of concern: * It is a covered porch. There are four columns between the floor and roof, but I don't know whether they are actually supporting the roof. * It is currently floored with 1/2 plywood, which is rotting. No standing water involved; the texture prevents proper drainage and led to rot. * Under the porch is a basement room complete with wiring and such. We had planned to use oak tongue-in-groove, but have been warned away from it. Now we’re not sure what to use – we just know we don’t want to use plywood.Our questions:1. If I assume those beams are supporting the roof, I’ll need a jack. But what jack? Where do I rent one?2. I thought about using a thin plywood layer under some cement board, but what could I put on top, other than tile?3. Anybody have any other ideas for flooring? Where to get TIG cedar in Cleveland?Thanks!
With your situation of having a room below your choices are very limited. First I would replace the rotted plywood with 5/8 pressure treated tounge and groove. You can cut to within a 1-1/2 of your exterior walls with a skill saw, I wouldn't worry to much about what is under the walls. Replace plywood and then top with 1/4 tile backer board and tile it. Complete your project by sealing your joints. If you need a jack, use the jack for your car, there usually rated for 20000 lbs

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