AC30 Series Modular Sockets

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Q: can fresh jump starting of battery (2 hours/10miles) or burnt fuse of horn/lighter cause this problem?thanks for all answers: those reasons will not trigger the light. it can be anything from a loose gas cap to severe catalytic converter damage. pull the codes and see where the issue is.

Q: Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.: Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.

Q: I have a 1996 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, just yesterday for some reason the clock and the radio both wont' turn on anymore. The battery is working fine, I can turn on the car, turn on the light and all other stuff, just those two components (and the cigarette lighter adapter) that stopped turning on. Can anyone think of any reason why it's doing that? Is it the fuse that might be burned out? Thanks: Look in the manual to determine which fuse is for those items. It is most likely the problem.

Q: I'm doing some wiring and I do not quite understand the difference between AC12v and DC12v. I need an item to run on DC12v, Can I simply clip the wires on my object that needs DC12v and connect the appropriate ends to the appropriate battery terminals?Please do not answer (12v) ^^ Thanks!: Yes well in a car it is higher that that while it is running but it will work for your purposes there is around 12 VDC at the positive terminal with respect to the negative terminal or car ground if that terminal is wired to the car or engine. You can wire directly if you are a brave soul but for safety you might want to put a fuse in the positive line before connecting it to the battery in case a short develops. The fuse size would just be over the amperage requirement for the device you are powering. If you are not sure start with a 1 amp fuse and work your way up in size if it blows if it doesn't then it should do the trick and protect some minimal protection if things go wrong.

Q: How can I tell if the fuse is blown?: For sure please call Sanyo service center to help you (don't wait until the set blow the worst case it can set fire. Buzzing sound usually comes from the component that has coil in it, like flyback, transformer. But it usually comes from the flyback when its leaking. If this the safety fuse you're talking about, when it blows your set won't be able to turn on anymore.

Q: A. protection from computer viruses.B. providing additional outlets for plugging in components.C. increasing the amount of power provided to a computer.D. an uninterruptible power supply.: ---Tips---

Q: i.m doing my project and for that i need to collect the industry profile and i did my project in a fuse manufacturing company so i need fuse industry.can any one find and say me the address or in case if u have any details please mail to .in: there is no fuse industry - fuses are a very small piece of electronic components market

Q: I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?: Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!

Q: I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?: First congratulations on doing an EXCELLENT job of troubleshooting most people would have bought two batteries, an alternator and a starter by now. The only thing you have left is to separate the components always on but I see you've done that. Try measuring the draw from those components right there next to the BCM. According to Kirkoff's law, the total has to equal the sum so give it another try. It looks like you're definitely on the right track. It could be bad insulation in the harness somewhere. I've seen stranger things happen.

Q: I have a 2000 volkswagen new beetle w/ 2.0 liter engine. Earlier today a guy jumped me off and I noticed that he had put the jumper cables on wrong! And immediatly yelled for him to take them off!when my stepdad jumped me off I noticed I could no longer read my speed or gas gauge! So is it more likely a fuse that was blown or the instrument cluster? All info is greatly appreciated thank you !: Hey Jasmin, Well, I think you must've hit the wrong button 'cause your question got posted in the Jeep section not the VW section. But hey, no worries. Most modern cars have a protection circuit that will set off a fuse or some other device to prevent serious damage to the engine computers (and other components) if someone gets their positives mixed up with their negatives when jumping the battery. I would suggest you bring it in to either a highly regarded independent shop specializing in European autos (usually BMW, VW, Mercedes and Volvo) or to the dealership. Depending on the car, you may have no choice but to bring it to the dealership if there is some type of special factory software that needs to be used to repair it. I would check in with an independent shop first tell 'em what happened and what's going wrong and they should be able to send you in the right direction (their shop or the dealership). Just be aware this might cost you some large coin to fix just be ready for that.

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