Electro Galvanised Steel Wires

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Diatmeters:0.15mm-6mm

Application	Weaving, braiding, fencing, cable armoring, knitting, tie wire, for redrawn, for binding or forming etc.
Material	low carbon steel wire
Diameter	0.15mm~6.00mm
Tensile strength	350-500MPA, or higher
Zinc coating	Min 12g/m2, min 25g/m2, min 200g/m2,min 300g/m2,610g/m2
Surface treatment	Hot dipped or electro galvanized
Packing	On spools In small coils of 25-50kg/coil, 10kg/coil In rosette coil of 100-800kg/coil
Standard	ASTM 641, EN10257-1& EN10244-2

All can be produced according to customers’ requirements.

Q: HiI want to cover a large section of a wall at home with wire. There is a plug socket (electrical outlet) in the wall. How can I ensure that I do not drill into electrical wiring within the wall? Is there some way to scan a wall to locate the wires?Thanks.: If the house is newer construction, it should have nail guards over the wire to prevent you from nailing into the wires. But that's should have guards. There are devices that you can use to sniff out wires inside the wall. Prices vary. Depending on how long the nails/ staples are that you are using, you should be ok just putting them in where ever, most of the wiring is pulled through the center of the studs, that gives you a nearly an inch on either side of where the wire is pulled through, if its in a 2X4 wall.

Q: ive heard multiple people talk about a 'final wire'. what is it exactly? Is it the thickest wire possible? Or is it when you havent gotten your wire changed in a while?: I had braces for two years, and i have never heard of this term. But the thickness of wires depends on what force you need applied at a particular time. The last wire i had was the thickest, to ''cement'' my teeth, so they would not move anymore. It was left in for 2 months while my teeth adjusted to their final places. SO i believe it is for the last treatment before removal. Hope that helped. :D

Q: What method can be used to detect residual impurities and metal particles on the wire surface?: Therefore, the removal of metal surface impurities and removal of metal surface oxides, the two are different.

Q: I need the wiring diagram for the factory radio of a 2008 ford explorer. i need to know which wires are for the back speakers so i can connect my Hi-Lo converter to it!? thanks: I believe this is what you are looking for, or should help... 2008 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Installation Instructions Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Violet/Red Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

Q: other than soldering and using a T-tap (wire tap), what are other common ways of connecting two wires together? Also, what does the following video say at the 1 minute 10 second mark? It's a something-set that helps to attach wires.: a wire nut or electrical tape

Q: i need an egr wiring Diagram for a 2000 Chevy Malibu. the wires got pulled out of the weather tight connector. if anyone can help i'd appreciate: Connector view for the GM linear EGR valve are as follows: Pin# A=gray/w black wire,Pin# B=solid black wire,Pin# C=brown/w white wire,Pin# D=brown/w white wire(see note) and Pin# E=solid red wire! NOTE since pin C+D have the same color wire the correct wire must be identified by checking the voltage with the KOEO (key on engine off) the right brown/w white wire should have a 5volt reference voltage with the key on engine off! Hope this helps.

Q: I bought a cheap amp wiring kit so the ground wire is not the same size as the power wire but my friend gas me an extra piece of 8 gauge wire same as mine if i put both of these to on at the same time would it help out any? also he gave me some audio cable like the wires inside are twisted to gather the box says it gives you better sound quality would they make a difference in sound that the one's i have on there know?Thanks: NO, you need to buy thicker wire because electricity follows the path of least resistance which means if one of the wires is 1/8 of an inch longer than the other, that is the wire the most electricity will flow through, as far as the speaker wire it wont make a difference unless it is thicker than what you already have installed (its very hard to tell the difference in sound quality even with very high quality speakers

Q: We are replacing an older style submersible 3 wire well pump with a newer style 3 wire plus ground. I do not know where to ground the green wire? Is it necessary to extend the wire from the pump all the way to the top and ground it there or can i just ground it to the pump itself? Any ideas? First time home owner... trying to save money and not call an electrician (Im an avionics technician so I have some what of an idea what im doing.) Thanks: All wires coming from the pump should terminated in the Pressure Switch box. Take the green wire from the pump and the ground wire from the house, connect them together with a pigtail wire and attach the pigtail wire to the ground screw within the Pressure Switch box.

Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Depending on the size of the hole in the beads, I usually run the wire down throw about 2 inches worth of beads; then crimp and clip. This also ensures that if the necklace if caught and pulled you have about 2 inches of slack before you are chasing beads on the floor. If you hole in the beads are small you can do two different things. 1) find a coordinating bead with larger holes that you can end the necklace with on both sides of the catch 2) Be sure your wire is running straight back down the original wire after going through the crimp, then crimp and clip.The end of the wire will be straighter and not tend to go out to the side and punch your neck. And unfortunately there is not a solution every time.

Q: I'm trying to install a ceiling fan and I'm looking for some help given my home's wiring. I have a single light switch in the room, and here's what's coming out of the ceiling: 2 white wires, 2 black wires and a ground wire. It seems like a set of white and black originate from the same location (in both cases). My celing fan with light has a remote connection, so there's one black, one white and one ground wire coming from my fan to connect to the ceiling. Can someone let me know how to hook it up so the fan and light both work? Thanks in advance.: if you have separated the wires from one another you have created a small problem which will require that you determine which pair are bringing the power in (line) You can buy a cheap 2-wire tester which us always a useful tool to have around. with the power on, carefully touch the the tester to one pair at a time (a black and white wire- don't let any of the wires touch each other, and the tester should light up. the other pair are running to the switch. note which pair is which. Have the switch extended out of the wall so that you can examine the wiring. Using wire nuts, ( the plastic screw-on caps) attach the hot black to the white wire of the non-hot pair and shove deep into the box out of your way...you are done with it.. that will deliver the power to the switch and now the black from the non-hot pair will bring it back to the fan becoming your new hot wire controlled now by the switch.. the switch should have the white wire and the black wire from the same pair attached to it..) the white wire from your remote receiver will attach to the white wire from ceiling box and the black and blue (light)wires from the receiver will connect with wire nuts to the newly established hot black. SWITCH AT WALL SHOULD NOW BE OFF. you can now continue the fan installation. Be mindful of the fact that the remote receiver slides into the space in the fan mounting bracket and there is very little room to get the receiver and all the connected wires in and under the canopy/cover. being as neat as posible with your wiring and wire placement is essential. good luck.

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