• City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 1
  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 2
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  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 4
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  • City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment System 6
City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment

City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 unit
Supply Capability:
500000 unit/month

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In order to simplify system maintenance and improve its liability and safety, presents PC series control box for solar pumping system based on years of research and experiments. The control box combines functions of solar pumping inverter and solar combiner box to simplify system wiring and operation as well as lowering costs. For solar pumping system combined with control box, power input is then backed up by city grid if the solar irradiation is not enough. Also, the special design improves system reliability. Optional reactors coupled with Control Box are suitable for scenarios where distance between Control Box and pump is far away.


Technical Features

1. The box contains combiner function with multiple connection ports for PV array and reverse-connection protection;

2. Thunder protection;

3. Fuse specifically designed for solar applications to withstand DC1kv, greatly improve system reliability

4. Solar DC breaker to improve DC withstanding voltage and system reliability;

5. IP54 protection grade, suitable for both indoor and outdoor installation;

6. Optional reactor to satisfy the long distance electricity transmission (200 meters and above);

7. Switch to different power sources (grid/diesel) if solar irradiation is not enough


Product Specifications


Solar Pumping Control Box Product Specifications

Model

Suitable Inverter

Grid Input

Dimension

mm

Weight

kg

PC-L2

PB750L - PB2200L

/

600*650*300

30

PC-L2/A

PB750L - PB2200L

Single Phase 220V ~ 250V

600*800*300

40

PC-H4

PB3700H / PB5500H

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H4/A

PB3700H / PB5500H

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H6

PB7500H / PB11KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H6/A

PB7500H / PB11KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50

PC-H8

PB15KH / PB18KH

/

600*800*300

40

PC-H8/A

PB15KH / PB18KH

Three Phase 380V ~ 415V

700*900*300

50


       


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment


City Power and Diesel Dynamo Transfer Switching Equipment




Q: I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?
Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.
Q: we changed the water pump in the car and now the horn sealtbelt light on the dash board and the speed aumator are not working what is the problem?
You damaged the throzzle knobs.
Q: Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?
yeah,,,if they are including labor YES. its a lot of work replacing the water pump....why does it need to be replaced? if your car was over heating then yes.. if you dont replace those parts..you can blow your engine...only if you been having overheating problems,,,and water pumps some times make a bird sound or cricket sound not exaclty but similar..it could make those sounds when the pump is going bad,,,...if the car doesnt have many miles...the pump might not be bad..the radiator is easy to replace.
Q: Hi, I own a 2004 chev. venture and the water pump is getting noisy (most likely the bearings) I priced a refurbished one online at $18 and am wandering if this is a task I could handle myself, or if I'd most likely screw it up
Te ASE will HUNT YOU DOWN, they are not an organization to trifle with! Seriously, it all depends on your degree of mechanical ability, and the info source you will use to do the job. If you go out and purchase a repair manual for your vehicle, then I would say yes, you can do that job yourself.
Q: I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?
The best thing you could do is maybe run to a library and they might have a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual you can make some copies of, check it out and decide for yourself, but a timing belt is a pretty involved process, not so much for a water pump.
Q: The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?
It’s useless to try and get an estimate for the cost of parts and labor for repairs via Yahoo Answers. In a lot of cases we have no idea of what country you’re in, let alone city, state, province or township. Even knowing where you live is of little use as prices for parts and labor can vary wildly within the same area. If you understand the problem and just need parts you can Google for the best prices for parts. Your best solution for getting an estimate of repair costs is by contacting an independent auto repair shop in your area. Don’t go with any of the franchise or chain type auto repair places as they frequently use poorly trained help and many have no mechanical training at all, and dealers have to charge more to cover their high overhead. It’s really best (when possible) to get a personal referral from someone you trust to a local independent shop.
Q: I have a pump connected to a lake, that I use to water garden. I changed the line into the lake as it had a air leak and lost it.'s prime.I have filled water back into the tank and lines .several times. And it hasn't caught it's prime. It is a year old pump that came with it's own tank.When I am doing all this I leave the tap end closed.I'm pretty sure that all is tight and not leaking.The line into the water is only about 5ft deep
If possible, attach a hose directly from your drinking water faucett to faucett on pump. Open both and turn on pump. If pump will not cycle off, your check valve is bad. If it does, turn off water supply and open pump faucett. pump should come on and belch air and water. Repeat this several times. If it still dosen't pick up prime you still have a leak in you'r new suction or well side. The tank only aids in shutting pump off . nothing to do with pump running or getting prime.
Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
Variable frequency pump running normally, its flow and lift is lower than the power frequency operation, that is for sure. The so-called power frequency operation is full speed operation, of course, the head and flow is the highest.Frequency conversion is mainly to save power and reduce the running loss of equipment. The so-called efficiency, but also by the correct selection, the actual pump head and flow as close as possible, the actual working conditions for the best.
Q: 2001 buick centurywater runs down at area of crank shaft
It am be leaks at them hole.
Q: Hello, I have a 1996 Cavalier and it's got a small coolant leak by the water pump so I figured I'd replace it. I called around a little bit and one quote was $250. I'm sord of handy and have a few hours on Saturday is it that hard? I heard it's just a few bolts? Thanks!!
The water pump on that vehicle is a ob-centric style that you rotate to create belt tension. This is a bit tricky and some people have broken the pump trying to tighten the belt so be careful. Look at the replacement pump carefully before you attempt to change it, this will give you clues as to how it works.

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