• Insulated Solid  PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction System 1
  • Insulated Solid  PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction System 2
Insulated Solid  PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction

Insulated Solid PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction

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Insulated Solid  PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction

 

Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Type: InsulatedModel Number: BV,BVVB
  • Application: Indoors

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Conductor Type: Solid

  • Insulation Material: PVC

Packaging & Delivery

 

Packaging Details:

Delivery Detail:

Packing in roll or as your requirements

4 weeks or as your request

 

Specifications

copper wire
1.450/750V solid copper
2.PVC insulated
3.ISO CCC IEC standard
4.factory direct sales

High quality PVC insulated solid copper wire

 1.Application:

This copper wire is suitable for fixed laying in power plant with AC rated voltage up to and including 450/750V.

 

2.Specification:

 

1). The rated voltage of the wires should equal to or higher then the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If the wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower then 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires. The working voltage of the system could be 1.1 times as high as the rated voltage of the cable.

2). The long term working temperature should lower then 70oC. The working temperature of BV-90 should lower then 90oC. And the laying temperature should higher then 0oC.
3). The curve diameter of the wire should longer than 8 times of the diameter of the outer diameter of cable and wires if their outer diameter is 25 mm or above. If the diameter of cable and wires is above 25 mm, the curve diameter should be at least 12 times of the outer diameter of the cable and wires.

 

3. Structure size and technical data:

 

Type

Name

Laying place and requirement

Long term working temperature 0C

60227IEC01

BV

Copper conductor PVC insulated wires

Fixed laid indoors

Conduit etc.

    70

60227IEC07

(BV-90)

Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 90 0C

Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors ,conduits.

   90

60227IEC10

(BVV) BVV

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires

Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground.

    70

BVVB

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

60227IEC02

(RV)

60227IEC06

(RV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector wire

Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required

 

 70

60227IEC42

(RVB)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector wire

RVS

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire

60227IEC52

(RVV)

60227IEC53

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector wire

60227IEC08

(RV-90)

Cu conductor heat resistant PVC insulated flexible connector wire at 90 0C

Mainly used at the places where heat resistance is required

90

 

Picture

 

Q: Electrical wire, optical wire, air, and space.Help!
Information can be transmitted via several methods: Electromagnetic Pulses. Electrical Waves. Radio Waves. Sound Waves. Light Waves. Now you figure out which goes with each one.
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Q: Hydropower transformation with a few square of the wire is good? Recommend a good brand?
The middle of the partition with the inside there may be weak electrical cable, and strong electric cable separate.
Q: explain to me with drawings 'n steps to take
In the U.S., you will likely need a professional (electrical) engineer to do any plans. He will likely be working with similar mechanical and plumbing people, and the architect. His work will also be affected by local codes and standards. Get the preliminary plans from the architect. Get size of building and estimate volts and amps needed. Confirm with local utility and tell HVAC people (mechanical engineers) so they can pick out systems that use the voltage. Figure out how much floor space you can cover with a 200A panel (or whatever size you plan to use). Put panels in the middle of each space that large. Add outlets, switches, lighting, and feeds to HVAC. Put in a main distribution panel to feed the sub-panels and check for breaker sizes, wire sizes, etc. Draw a 'panel diagram'. Check the final mechanical equipment schedule to be sure voltages and power use all match. Get the EE to stamp and seal. Deliver drawings.
Q: I have two switches (one controls a fan and one controls a light) in a box with only one feed wire. The normal pigtail split is used for the blacks to the switches and the whites to the light and fan, ground to grounds. I have a timer with a black, red, white and ground that I will use to control the fan. Ground goes to ground, red goes to the fan, black gets connected to the existing blacks, for the white I pigtailed two short white wires with the white feed wire and connected one to the light switch white, and the other to the whites for the the fan and timer white (it works). Now the question Could I have connected the timer white with the whites for feed, the light and the fan or would that have caused a problem, (I thought it would so that is why I split the feed white off with the pigtail)
It's only a question of what fits in the wire nut. When you buy wire nuts they come with a list of all of the different combinations of wires that will fit in them. Your way is fine - a bit of extra work is all.
Q: I live in a rental townhome with three other houses connected. I believe they were built in the 50's if that matters. These are breakers with copper wiring and I noticed the other day just how crazy our electrical is run. First we only have four 15 amp breakers, one of them dedicated to our washer and entire kitchen including our fridge and microwave, and the window receptacle we would plug our window ac in to! The dryer has a dedicated 50 amp but the entire house runs off of those four 15 amp breakers. We recently bought a second fridge and i wanted to plug it in next to our washer but now that i know what is all running off that line i dont know what to do. I know this couldn't meet code in a home but is there some loophole rental units get away with doing this!? Would it be safe to plug my second fridge into that line?
For a home that was built in the 1950s, that was the standard. The loophole is a grandfather clause that permits properties to be up to standard when they were built.
Q: 7 kilowatts of electricity with what specifications of the wire O (∩ _ ∩) O Thank you
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Q: Hi, I am building a greenhouse in my backyard and had a few questions as to how i should wire it. The appliances I will have in the greenhouse include.A 400 watt light.a 115 volt pump, an oscillating fanand a ventilation fanI can't remember the wattage of the two fans. But my question is will I need to run more than one wire out to my greenhouse? The wire I have says its max voltage is 600. any tips and advice would be nice.
One circuit should suffice for your load requirements. However, it would be advisable to run a 3 conductor cable, and this way you will have two circuits for any future power needs, even if you only utilize one circuit right now. If your green house is less than 100 feet from your electrical panel (not just the closest side of your house), then 12 gauge conductors on a 20 amp breaker will suffice. However, if the distance is larger than 100 feet, I would strongly recommend 10 gauge conductors to compensate for any potential voltage drop. Also, please keep in mind to have all of your devices rated the same as whatever your breaker is. E.g., install 20 amp receptacles and light switches. Make sure you ground everything properly, and your receptacles should all be GFI devices given the amount of water present in a greenhouse. I would also recommend that if you have more than just one GFI plug, for example a light switch, to have that powered from the load side of the GFI plug. This will ensure everything is GFI protected. Also, this work should be done with an electrical permit, and inspected. My advice may not adhere to local codes, I live in Ontario. Also, I cannot see your site conditions and am going on a generic approach. The most important thing is to be safe, and never work with live electricity. Good luck.
Q: I have an electrical wire that fried on the outside meter box that leads to the inside. Who is responsible for that me or HOA?
the power company owns the wire that goes into the meter box from the street. They also own the meter and the box. You own the wire from the meter box to your service box. Kabish??
Q: I do not want to break any nyc code law.
Non-metallic (NM) wire also known as Romex(brand name) is used in residential wiring but must be installed according to the National Electric Code (NEC). As it says in the first section of the NEC, All codes are subject to the authority having jurisdiction Which means your local electrical inspector has the final say. Your best bet would be to call your local inspector and ask him or her if you can use NM in your application.

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