Insulated Solid PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction
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Insulated Solid PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction
Quick Details
Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)
- Type: InsulatedModel Number: BV,BVVB
Application: Indoors
Conductor Material: Copper
Conductor Type: Solid
Insulation Material: PVC
Packaging & Delivery
Packing in roll or as your requirements |
4 weeks or as your request |
Specifications
copper wire
1.450/750V solid copper
2.PVC insulated
3.ISO CCC IEC standard
4.factory direct sales
High quality PVC insulated solid copper wire
1.Application:
This copper wire is suitable for fixed laying in power plant with AC rated voltage up to and including 450/750V.
2.Specification:
1). The rated voltage of the wires should equal to or higher then the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If the wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower then 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires. The working voltage of the system could be 1.1 times as high as the rated voltage of the cable.
2). The long term working temperature should lower then 70oC. The working temperature of BV-90 should lower then 90oC. And the laying temperature should higher then 0oC.
3). The curve diameter of the wire should longer than 8 times of the diameter of the outer diameter of cable and wires if their outer diameter is 25 mm or above. If the diameter of cable and wires is above 25 mm, the curve diameter should be at least 12 times of the outer diameter of the cable and wires.
3. Structure size and technical data:
Type | Name | Laying place and requirement | Long term working temperature 0C |
60227IEC01 BV | Copper conductor PVC insulated wires | Fixed laid indoors Conduit etc. | 70 |
60227IEC07 (BV-90) | Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 90 0C | Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors ,conduits. | 90 |
60227IEC10 (BVV) BVV | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires | Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground. | 70 |
BVVB | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires | ||
60227IEC02 (RV) 60227IEC06 (RV) | Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector wire | Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required |
70 |
60227IEC42 (RVB) | Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector wire | ||
RVS | Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire | ||
60227IEC52 (RVV) 60227IEC53 | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector wire | ||
60227IEC08 (RV-90) | Cu conductor heat resistant PVC insulated flexible connector wire at 90 0C | Mainly used at the places where heat resistance is required | 90 |
Picture
- Q: I have an antique light fixture that has wiring with a fabric cover. About how old is this? I was thinking 1920s.
- It had cloth covering up until the advent of usable plastics after WWII and plastic coatings on consumer products came along later than that I would say early 50's is when plastic insulated wiring came along. The conductors (wires) should be rubber insulated, and the pair is fabric insulated. Or are you talking a home that has two individual conductors that are ran on old spool type insulators, those are at the dawn of home electrical wiring and it depends on the fixture you have. If the conductors are paired and individually rubber coated, but the outer sheath is a fiberglass type materiel it could be as new as about 1950.
- Q: Hello We have been running a room heater and humidifier from a bedroom wall electrical outlet for the last 4-5 months with no issue.2 days ago we noticed a burning/melting plastic smell when we ran the appliances for 10-15 mins. I checked the wall outlet after removing its cover and visually looks OK i.e. no blackening. I have not removed the actual sockets. Also, the appliances themselves seem to be OK i.e. no smell from them.Could the issue be in the wiring inside a wall? How to determine this? The smell seems to starts when we use this particular outlet only.If problem is not in outlet, then will the wall need to be broken into to determine the source of the problem? Is there a more sophisticated solution?What could have caused this sudden issue? A rodent? Water leakage thru the siding? Other ideas?Note that the circuit breakers have not tripped during this time to indicate overload etc.Thanks in advance for your opinions.Homeowner_ne
- There are several potential causes. 1. The heater is drawing more current than the receptical can handle. There may be other output devices (fixtures) also drawing current. Not enough to trip the breaker - but enough to cause the recepticle to get hot. 2. Loose wire connection in the recepticle box. 3. Oversized breaker and wire that is too small. 4. Could be the heater itself. 5. The electrical wire could be to small to handle the load demand. Breakers are protective devices - If you have an oversized breaker on a circuit than it wont trip. 12 AWG wire should have a 20 amp breaker 14 AWG wire should have a 15 amp breaker I would take no chances with the wire in the wall. Id change it out and also the receptical. Id also do a voltage check and check your current to the receptical, Id also check the amps being drawed to the heater. Id also find out what is all on the circuit to ensure there is not an over load. Calculate the watts, volts and amps. Remember this formula Watts divided Volts amps Exsample 1500watts divided 240 volts 6.25 amps or 1500 watts divided by 120 volts 12.5 amps Do this for each output device on the circuit and add the total amps to see if you are overdrawing. The amount of amps should be less than the amps on the breaker in the main panel box. Dont forget to consider the proper wire size for the amps on the circuit. Wish I could help you more - Good luck
- Q: Upstairs toilet water seepage for a long time, my house is a large number of walls, has been unable to discuss the argument, the recent short circuit, and suspected to be the reason for water seepage, but upstairs and his insistence, even if there is a leaking can not affect wire. Because of this ignorant, so here to ask you, leakage of water will lead to short wire inside the wall? Thank you for answering. Question added: 1: is the old house, the wire is replaced seven years ago. 2: upstairs tenants insist on not admit leaking, but also invited his decoration master to see, they say no matter what the situation, even if the water leakage will certainly not lead to short circuit. For his argument doubt, so I would like to ask, is not any case, the leakage of water will not be inside the wall bubble to a short circuit? More
- If your wire in the thread when the insulation will break even if it is a little bit, or the existence of quality problems with the wire encountered when the water or moisture will cause a short circuit. (Upstairs tenants do not admit that the water is not admitted, but also invited his decoration master to see, they say no matter what the situation, even if the water leakage will certainly not lead to short circuit.) Is his decoration master? Funny right? First of all, you have to find a professional electrician master to let him use [shake table] or megger to detect whether the line there is a short circuit phenomenon, if there is upstairs in the upstairs and then check, and then consult.
- Q: anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?
- the green is the ground , the smooth one is the black, the one with the ridges runing down the length is the white. use wire nuts unless you like fire
- Q: i am used to the red, black, white, green and bare cables. but i got a chanelier with two black cables and a bare cable (ground) so how do i put it up?
- Use a continuity tester to determine which wire goes to the lamp shell. That's the neutral, connect it to the white in the ceiling box. The other goes to the switch leg. If you were to hook it up in reverse it would work but you could easily get shocked changing a bulb with the power still on. The bare wire is of course the ground.
- Q: How are they wired up, and how do they work, thanks.
- If you are talking about a feed meaning a home run from the panel then the feed usually goes to the light and drops to the switch and can pick up a couple of recepticles in the wall also. The national electrical code allows for a white to switch hot if it is marked on both ends so you can use a two wire run. If you run from the panel to the switch box then you will have a hot switched for the light, one for the hot recepticles and a neutral for all. Keep in mind the green is allways used and only used for a bond and nothing else.That gives you a 3 wire and a bond going from the small switch box to the larger light box in the cieling, Which will work but is harder to follow years later if you have problems. If you run from the panel to the cieling box it is easy to locate and trouble shoot all wires as everything goes to that box. Most switches are single pole and require 2 wires and it is pretty much a in and out deal so that is simple enough but if it is a 3 way ( or switched at 2 places ) you have to use 3 way switches, If you want to switch from 3 places or more then you have to use 2 - 3 way and the rest 4 way. I realize I am not telling you all you have to know but electricity is not for people who dont know what they are doing. You can get shocked and others can get hurt or the house could burn down with you sleeping in it so I suggest you get out the Home Depot do it yourself books or go to the library and learn what and the whys of electricity. I hope what I have told you gets you to see that it takes some home work to make it safe and understandable.
- Q: 1007 wire and 1015 wire What is the difference
- first do not put the module up, according to the mold on the Yan to play, from left to right, (blue, orange, green, brown, gray), and then according to the big pair of "ribbon" to play, Hit the last
- Q: I am trying to completely remove a dishwasher. I don't want to replace it, just remove it and convert the space to shelf space. The electrical is hardwired to the dishwasher. I already have the breaker off and it can stay off indefinitely. How do I cap the wire ends so it will be safe if someone accidentally turns the breaker back on and those go live? Should I just use wire nuts? Thanks
- You can use wire nuts but I have a better and safer idea. Use a junction box with a cover and one entrance, one sided butt splice connectors, (you will have to crimp them on and make they are tight by giving them a little tug). Crimp on caps are much better when capping electrical wiring off; especially, where there is kids or where there is accidents bound to happen!
- Q: What is the maximum current through the eight square copper wires
- Cable bridge installation specifications inside: cable bridge multi-layer installation control cable between not less than 0.2M, power cable between not less than 0.3M, weak cable and power cable between not less than 0.5M, if the shield cover can be reduced to 0.3M, The upper part of the bridge is not less than 0.3M from the ceiling or other obstacles. Different voltage for different purposes of the cable should not be laid in the same layer of the bridge if the conditions are limited to laying in the same layer of the bridge, the middle need to add partitions. In order to prevent the human body from touching or excessively close to the charged body, or to prevent the vehicle and other objects from colliding with the charged body, and to avoid a variety of short circuits, fires and explosions, between the body and the charged body, between the charged body and the ground, Between the charged body, between the charged body and other objects and facilities, must maintain a certain distance.
- Q: can we replaced it with the normal plastic insulated wire?
- Not a good idea. The cloth insulation nomex or kevlar and is for heat resistance. Without that you are likely to melt the wires at the point where they go into the appliance.
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Insulated Solid PVC Copper Wire Used for Construction
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
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- Supply Capability:
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