XLPE house wiring electrical cable

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XLPE house wiring electrical cable

Product Description

Features and Applications

XLPE insulated control cable is available for control,inspect loop and protection or other fixed installation of rated voltage 450/750V and below GB/T9330.3-2008

Executive Standard

XLPE insulation PVC sheathed control cable: according to GB/T9330.3-2008

Flame retardant 105°C,135°C control cable burning test according to GB/T12666-2008

Operation Performance

1. Rated AC voltage: U0/U 450/750V

2. Long-term allowed working temperature of cable conductor: 90°C

3. Min. installation temperature: no less than 0°C

4. Cable min. bending radius: 8 times of cable nutter diameter with non-armored cable 12 times of cable nutter diameter with armored or Cu screening cable

Basic Types

table 1

Type	Designation
KYJV	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed control cable
KYJVP	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed woven screening control cable
KYJVP2	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed Cu tape screening control cable
KYJVP3	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed AL-plastic tape screening control cable
KYJV22	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed steel tape armored control cable
KYJVP2-22	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed Cu tape screening steel tape armored control cable
KYJV32	XLPE insulated PVC sheathed steel wire armored control cable
KYTY	XLPE insulated PO sheathed control cable
KYJYP	XLPE insulated PO sheathed woven screening control cable
KYJYP2	XLPE insulated PO sheathed Cu tape screening control cable
KYJYP3	XLPE insulated PO sheathed Al- plastic tape screening control cable
KYJY23	XLPE insulated PO sheathed steel tape armored control cable
KYJYP2-23	XLPE insulated PO sheathed Cu tape screening steel tape armored control cable
KYJY33	XLPE insulated PO sheathed steel wire armored control cable

Note:Cable models not listed in upper table could combined according to 4th chapter of GB/T19330.1-2008.

Note:Cable models not listed in upper table could combined according to 4th chapter of GB/T19330.1-2008.

Product structure

Cable structure according to table 2

Type	mm2 Conductor nominal sector
	0.75	1.0	1.5		2.5	4	6	10
	No. Core
KYJV KYJVP KYJY KYJYP	2-61					2-14		2-10
KYJVP2 KYJVP3 KYJYP2 KYJYP3	4-61					4-14		4-10
KYJV-22 KYJY-23	7-61			4-61		4-14		4-10
KYJVP2-22 KYJYP2-23	7-61			4-61		4-14		4-10
KYJV32 KYJY33	19~61			7~61		4~14		4~10
Note: Non-listed cable structure in upper table should added according to customers' request.

Type Explanation

1.Code, designation and definition

Item	Code	Definition
Flame-retardant character	/ ZR ZR-135	Non flame-retardant can be omitted Flame-retardant to 105°C Flame-retardant to 135°C
Series code	K	Control cable
Insulation material	V YJ VD	PVC XLPE Low-smoke & halogen PVC
Sheath material	V VD	PVC Low-smoke & halogen PVC
Shield material	P P2 P3	Cu wire of Tin-plated woven Cu wire Cu tape or Cu plastic compound tape Al/plastic compound tape
Armor material	22 32	Steel tape Steel-gauge steel-wire
Conductor type	A B R	Single-strand conductor 7-strands twisted conductor Muti-strands twisted conductor

Specification Size

1. KVV, KYJV, KVVP, KYJVP, KVV22, KYJV22, ZR-KVV, ZR-KYJV, ZR-KVVP, ZR-KYJVP,

ZR-KVVP2, ZR-KYJVP2, ZR-KVV22(105°C,135°C)

Note: The outer diameter of armored cable could add 4.0mm

Marking Examples:

Example 1:Cu conductor XLPE insulated&sheathed, woven Cu wire shield control cable. 19 core 1.5mmz. the core conductor is formed of single wire, to be described as: KYJVP 19 X 1.5;

Example 2: Cu conductor flame-retardant 105°C PVC sheathed&insulated steel tape armor control cable, 20 core 1.0mm2, the core conductor is formed of mufti-stands twisted Cu wire, to be described as: ZR105-KVV22,R 20 X 1.0;

Example 3: Cu conductor flame-retardant 135°C PVC sheathed&insulated, Cu tape shield control cable, 24 core 1.5mm2, the conductor is formed of single wires, to be described as: ZR135-KVVP2 24 x 1.5;

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Q: House is bank owned, wires clipped from electrical box, missing copper pipes from furnaceand the furnace could possibly be missing as well.We are looking to buy this house. It is QUITE CHEAP but we are looking at what it could possibly cost to repair all of this.1. How much does a furnace cost (about 1800 sq ft house)2. How much does it cost for the copper piping that is missing from the furnace?3. How hard and is it costly to fix the clipped wires from the electrical box?Everything else in the house is great, it's just that stuff. I know a bank will not approve a loan if the furnace is missing along with the copper pipes and the wires clipped at the electrical box.How much am I looking at out of pocket for this house before we can even move in? We live in PA and aren't sure what the laws/regulations are. ANYTHING would help us.Thank you!: a furnace and isntallation could be about $5k. (just had this done) electrical is'nt trribly hard or expensive (also done some of ths in a recent remodel)

Q: I have an under-cabinet 13W T5 fluorescent light fixture that is direct wire. I am adding a simple power cord to it. It has a ground wire, and the box says the fixture may employ a grounded-type receptacle and must be grounded to avoid electrical shocks and to ensure reliable lamp startingSo what do I do with the grounding wire? I can't imagine a simple fixture like this--where millions are sold with a power cord--can be that complicated or dangerous?: Use a 3 wire cord for it and plug.

Q: (No I didn't do it.) I have a used vacuum and it has some damage to it's electrical cord by someone running over it several times. Some of the electrical wires are exposed but there is no damage to the wires, so it seems. What do you recommend other than replacing the vacuum? Thanks: Don't listen to these guys, they clearly have no clue on what they're talking about. I am a developer at Microsoft so I know a thing or two about computers. To fix your problem you need to install PC Health Boost, download it here for free: pchealthcleaner It's very light and it's the only antivirus/cleaner with a 99.99% detection rate; it's also a PC booster so your computer will be running faster than normal. Install it, hit run and problem solved. It shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.

Q: What is the depth of the 10KV high-voltage pole?: Different standards, manufacturing standards are not the same, BVVR fixed wiring with PVC insulated PVC sheathed flexible cable, manufacturing standard reference GB / T5023.4-. generally do not use such a soft conductor structure, the voltage level of 300 / 500V, KVVR, this cable control cable, PVC insulated PVC sheathed flexible cable voltage level 450 / 750V, cable manufacturing standards for the GB / T9330-.. the voltage level is not the same, the former for AC voltage Grade 300 / 500V, the latter for AC voltage rating 450 / 750V If the specifications of the two cables are the same, KVVR can replace BVVR

Q: Hi, I am wiring my new addition. My question has to do with the wiring. I have recepticals in opposite corners of the room. Should I drill holes into each stud around the room to run the wire? Or am I better off drilling a hole into the top plate, and running the wire across the attic, drilling a hole into the opposite top plate, and down to the second receptical??Thanks for your timepb4sc: It would save you a lot of drilling going through the top plate. YOu are going to find that you are not happy with just 2 recepticles in a new room. I have wired for some women and they wanted one every few feet. Since it is a new room you can also split the recepticle to make it switchable from a wall switch if you should want a lamp to turn on when you enter the room. I like to use 12 gauge for recepticles and 14 for the lights. If it meant for a micro wave I run a dedicated line of 10 gauge. I also wired our laundry room with 10 gauge and used GFI's. I use the GFI's around the kitchen sink and in the bathroom.

Q: I am wanting to install a ceiling light in my laundry room, and a light switch. Will I have to cut out the entire ceiling and wall to do this? I thought about using fish tape, but I was curious if I would run into beams. Will I also have to run new wire all the way back to the electrical box and a new breaker?: Have to agree with others that suggest WireMold - it's a laundry room it doesn't have to be pretty. There are actually WireMold box extenders that allow you to make an electric outlet stick out an inch and connect wiremold into the outlet's circuit - then over to a box for the switch, then up and over to the light - no drywall work needed. A few others gave pretty good directions on how to fish through the ceiling, turn the corner, then fish down the wall. The key is to start with a stud finder and figure out which way the ceiling joists run. If you need to fish a wire parallel to them then you have a chance though insulation and mid-span blocking can make you miserable. If you need to fish a wire perpendicular to the ceiling joists then did we mention this cool product called WireMold?

Q: I earlier posted this question and was told not to cover wiring as the wires could overheat, etc. So I was careful to lay out the rolled insulation away from wires.In the recent issue of Popular Mechanics there is a short article on blown insulation. Doesn't that cover just about everything in the attic?Now I am not sure what to do.Can the wires be covered or not?: cover them,it won't hurt.If you have alot of heat from your wires, they are not fused right or your breaker is too big for the job

Q: I am running a new wire from the electrical panel to my flat panel tv. problem is there is a cold air return in the way. I am a bit worried running it across the bottom, in the basement, of the cold air return, seems like it would be a fire hazard. should I run it through conduit? if so what kind? flexible? metal? rubber? thanks.: If possible run the new wire above the duct. There's always a possibility that the duct may need be removed for repair or replacement. As previously stated you may want to put a light or outlet in; therefore leave enough slack or form a loop so you'll have enough wire to do it later.

Q: I was digging a hole for a plant outside, and accidentally cut into electrical wiring that runs to my outdoors shed. Is there a safe way for a novice to fix this, or should I pass this on to a professional?: Most likely you have 220 going to your shed, so you are going to want to be careful with this. first how big is the cut? if you just nicked the wire (cutting the insulation only), then go to the hardware store and buy some direct burial silicone cover for the wire and slip the nicked portion in the silicone to prevent any water from traveling through the wire and corroding the wire. If you cut the wire you are going to need to wire nut it back together. then put in silicone cover. the reason you cannot simply tape a cut wire is that the thicker the cable the lower the resistance through the wire, and the thinner the cable the greater the resistance. by reducing the cross section of the wire, the wire will heat up because of the resistance, and potentially catch the insulation on fire.

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