• Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 1
  • Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 2
  • Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 3
  • Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 4
  • Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 5
  • Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V System 6
Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V

Copper Conductor PVC Control Cable 300/500V & 450/750V

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 roll
Supply Capability:
10000 roll/month

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1.Single Conductor Stranded Wire

H05V-U, H07V-U, H07V-R, BS6004 6491X, BV, BVR

 

The cable has the advantage high mechanical strength,good ambient stress resistance,good electrical properties and anti-Chemical corrosion. It applies to electrical power transmission and distribution lines with AC rated Voltage up to 450/750V. The cable is for general purpose, as building wire for power, lighting and control wire to electrical appliances, suitable for use in conduit and for fixed, protected installation.

2.Description

  • Rated voltage: 300/500V,450/750V

  • Standard applied: IEC 60227, BS 6004, VDE 0281, GB/T 5023, JB/T8734

  • Max. working temp.:70°C,can be 90°C,105°C per requirement

  • Conductor: Class 1/2 plain annealed copper wires, solid or stranded.

  • Insulation: PVC material

  • Cores: 1 cores

  • Cross section area: 0.5~630sqmm

  • Color: Brown, Grey, Black, Blue, Green/Yellow or others on request

  • Packing: 100 meters per roll or as per requirement

  • Certificate: ISO9001,ISO14001,OHSMS18001,CE,CB,CCC,SAA,etc.

  • OEM can be available

  • BDK cable has very good sales over the world, enjoying a very good reputation based on top quality and   most competitive price and best service.

  • Flame retardant or fire resistance or Low Smoking and Halogen free or other property can be available

3.Parameter sheet

H07V-R H07V-U H05V-R H05V-U BY 227IEC01/05 equivalent to VDE 0281 BS6004
Cross section (mm2) Conductor construction (No/mm) Insulation thickness (mm) Overall diameter max (mm) Min insulation
resistance@
70ºC (ohm/Km)
Weight approx (Kg/Km)
1x0.51/0.800.62.40.0158
1x0.757/0.970.62.80.01211
1x0.751/0.970.62.60.01211
1x1.07/0.430.6314
1x1.01/1.130.62.80.01114
1x1.57/0.520.73.40.0121
1x1.51x1.380.73.30.01120
1x2.57/0.670.84.20.00932
1x2.51x1.780.83.90.0131
1x47/0.850.84.80.007745
1x41/2.250.84.40.008545
1x67/1.040.85.40.006565
1x61/2.760.84.90.00765
1x107/1.3516.80.0065110
1x101/3.5716.40.007110
1x167/1.70180.005165
1x257/2.141.29.80.005264
1x357/2.521.2110.004360
1x5019/1.781.4130.0045490
1x7019/2.141.4150.0035685
1x9519/2.521.617.50.0035946
1x12037/2.031.6190.00321181
1x15037/2.251.8210.00321453
1x18537/2.52223.50.00321821
1x24061/2.242.226.50.00322383
1x30061/2.502.429.50.0032983
1x40061/2.852.633.50.00283800

4.Main manufacturing procedure

1. Copper wire drawing and annealing

2. Copper wire stranding

3. Outer sheath extruding and labeling

4. Spooling

5.Product photo



Production  facility


6.Main Quality Inspection Equipment

Sparker tester,Heating aging Chamber,High resistance machine, Oxygen index equipment, Partial discharge inspection instruments, Fireproof testing device,High-power voltage withstand tester,No-rotor Vulkameter,Pull tester,Analytical balance,Direct current bridge,Plastic tester,Projector, Punch machine,Cross-linked cutting machine,etc.

Q: help! i have been searching but counldn't find the inventor HELP!
Thomas Edison
Q: Just bought the wire only one month to see the inside of the copper wire does not pull a few, and would like to know why is this ah, this dare dare to use the wire, experts please answer! More
(AX-310HHC) cooler cool cool supreme falcon hard drive is now no price or price soaring to buy or To find a friend not used second-hand hard drive if it is a parallel port to buy a adapter card to buy a 50 or so into the best is to spend a 50-60 block to accept a second-hand brand machine chassis down also estimated that 1100-1200 this configuration The purpose is very simple, that is, so you can in the case of cheap as possible to meet a daily life office needs of the machine, and the quality of the parts and not too far behind. Inte the G530 quite some to occupy the low-end market means, first of all its performance than the previous generation of low-end goods E5000 and Athlon 200 series to a little bit, and its power consumption is very low, with Athlon Than the chicken is the gap between wow, which makes his power and heat control is to force, do not need a good radiator. And G530 comes with a nuclear show, the effect does not say how good, the most basic 3D games, such as Warcraft CS play a play or no pressure, but also support the hard solution, see the film also solved the problem. The price is also particularly cheap, less than . almost can be said that the low-end first choice.
Q: I noticed when somebody uses the microwave my tv starts to make REALLY loud zap noises and a staticy bar rolls down the screen. The tv does it on its own sometimes and I thought I saw the hallway lights flicker a bit when it happened.If I flip on the bedroom light the tv does the same thing again or if I unplug something from an outlet on the other side of the room. I don't know why EXACTLY, I only know its wiring if you can explain further please do. Also, if an electrical fire happens what should I do? Obviously no water because duh but do I cover it in baking soda? I saw that a lot on different websites. I do not own the correct fire extinguisher so what else would I use? Thanks for any answers!
Nothing wrong with trying to be prepared for a fire - just pick up a fire extinguisher at the store, where the ratings for what it will can do are right on the box. Far more likely, however, to have a stove-top fire, or something else in the house light up, like drapery too close to a space heater, than an electrical fire. Meanwhile, getting an electrician in there would be a better idea. He/she can help determine whether it's just an old system being pushed to it's limits, or something that needs repair or replacement (or both). One electrician in the house is worth around a hundred YA posts.
Q: anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?
The green is the ground. It realy doesn't matter what the other two hook to. Use wire nuts. The tape will degrade over time and fall off. It could cause a short and in some cases cause an electrical fire.
Q: I have an electrical box with 3 on off switches in it, 1 comes in from a ceiling light (it will be the only switch for it), the second will run to another separate ceiling light and also continue to another switch, and the third will run to an outlet which I want to be able to turn off and on with the switch for a table lamp.Starting at the power source coming into the box how should the rest be wired to work independentlyThanks
From the description of your plan I doubt that the whole scenario will be accomplished. First off, you say that the second switch will control a ceiling light which will also be controlled by a second switch at a remote location. It doesn't sound to me from the way you're talking about this setup that you've allowed for the fact that you're going to need two 3 way switches to operate the ceiling light, and which require a third wire for operation. So, if you think that over for awhile and come back with a different idea then we can probably help. This setup isn't going to fly the way it is.
Q: A friend of mine had his kitchen remodeled and the wiring for the cabinets is visible in the back of the cabinets. It is also stapled to the side and the back of the cabinet and runs to the bottom corner to the recessed lights. I told him electrical wiring should not be stapled and not visible. I have never opened a cabinet with exposed wiring. Not only that but the molding is not secured to the external cabinet. The doors on the front also have a 1/4 or so gap when closed. I said the doors need to be flush, almost touching. Not a gap like Dave Lettermans teeth.
No they should be in the walls, someone took advantage of him
Q: Electrical supplies
For new house wiring ? Probably not now. At one time house wiring was bare - it had no continuous insulation and was strung individually on glass-like support posts. That system had a name which I cannot remember. Some may be yet by existing today if the residence has not been inspected. Then wires were individually insulated with paper or cloth wrap which will deterrioriate . Those are also to be found still in service in houses built in the 1920 -30s. I have seen it. When plastic became commonly available the duration of the continuous wire insulation greatly improved and modern wire insulation could be implied to have a reasonably unexpirable duration in residential and commercial service. However, it is not so stamped because of factors beyond the reasonable control of the manufacturer.
Q: Seeking similar to the heifers Tim wire B with lightning. Similar words.
If you want to output video and sound at the same time need HDMI connection look at your books and TV whether there is such an interface, then buy a HDMI cable can be a
Q: hi. i have old westinghouse garage door electrical engine. I would like to make a winch but dont know how to hook it up. it has capacitor and 5 wires. brown brown white blue red. please give me some ideas how to hook it up. thx.
I will take a look and edit this post. Remember these motors are usually intermittant duty so they overheat quickly. The caps are rated at 20 starts an hour. White is neutral. Red and blue are to the cap and are the rotation wires.
Q: I moved in a new house and they just cut off the electrical wire to the garage door opener. the old wire is 18 gauge/3 and i put a 16 gauge /3 on it. is it safe. works fine. will it pull more juice since it is 16 gauge or its max juice that runs through it is bigger.
RE: I am making a chandelier, what gauge wire should I use? I am making a chandelier. It is made up of 19 light bulbs wired in parallel, all of them are 40 watt bulbs. I am plugging this chandelier into a standard 120 volt wall socket. I think I should use 18 gauge wire minimum, and 16 gauge wire to be safe but I'm not sure. What gauge wire

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