• Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory System 1
  • Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory System 2
  • Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory System 3
  • Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory System 4
  • Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory System 5
Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory

Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory

Ref Price:
$350.00 - 400.00 / m.t. get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10 m.t.
Supply Capability:
3000 m.t./month

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1.Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory Description

Black Annealed Iron Wire is mainly processed into coil wire, spool wire or big package wire. Annealed wire is used as tie wire or baling wire in building, parks and daily binding. Besides, black annealed wire is mainly used as industrial wire, construction wire, industrial bale tie wire and constructional tie wire, etc.

Black Annealed Iron Wire is extensively used in construction, handicrafts, woven wire mesh, express way fencing mesh, packaging of products,etc.Black annealed wire is mainly used in buiding and construction as binding wire, tie wire and baling wire.Black annealed wire is widely used as tie wire or baling wire in building, parks and daily binding.In agriculture annealed wire is used for bailing hay.Meantime black annealed wire can processed into coil wire, spool wire, big package wire orfurther traightened and cut into cut wire or U type wire.


2.Main Features of Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory:

soft tenacity, strong tensile strength, corrosion resistance, folding resistance is strong, colour and lustre is uniform


3. Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory Images

Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory

Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory


4.Black Annealed Wire Binding Wire Soft Wire Real Factory Specification

Gage No.       

       BWG(mm)      

  

      Metric(mm)       

 

8

4.191

4.00

9

3.759

4.00

10

3.404

3.50

11

3.048

3.00

12

2.769

2.80

13

2.413

2.50

14

2.108

2.50

15

1.829

1.80

16

1.651

1.65

17

1.473

1.40

18

1.245

1.20

19

1.067

1.00

20

0.8886

0.90

21

0.8128

0.80

22

0.7109

0.70


5.FAQ 

①Are you a factory?

Yes, We are a professional manufacturer of wire in China. The Mainly product is electro galvanized iron wire, black annealed iron wire, wire nail. Our company is built by two boss, one own a black annealed wire factory,the other own a galvanized wire factory.


②Is your company offer the sample?

Of course, our factory could supply the sample for free. Also we could OEM the quality as your requirement


③What does the process of your wire?

 the Q195 wire rod drawing model into the black iron wire, through 1000° high temperature firing, black iron wire after annealing treatment, soft wire, can increase the wire tensile degrees.

 

Q: 4.A uniform semicircular sign 1.00 m in diameter and a weight of 325 N is supported by two wires. What is the tension in each of wires supporting the sign?
Assuming the wires are vertical, connected evenly to the sign, and that nothing else is supporting the sign, then each wire carries half of the weight. T = 325 / 2 = 162.5N
Q: A street lamp weighs 200 N. It is supported by two wires that form an angle of 130° with each other. The tensions in the wires are equal.What is the tension in each wire supporting the street lamp?If the angle between the wires supporting the street lamp is reduced to 100°, what is the tension in each wire?
Problem 1: If the tension in the two wires are equal, the angle they make with the horizontal must also be equal. Always remember that a horizontal line is a straight angle; hence, it has a measurement of 180°. Let's look for the angle the wires make with the horizontal. 130 + x + x = 180 130 + 2x = 180 2x = 180 - 130 2x = 50 (Divide both sides by 2) x = 25° Each wire makes a 25° angle with the horizontal. We can now find the tension. The mass must be divided by 2. Using trigonometry, let's find the tension force. The divided weight of the lamp shall be the opposite side, and the tension force shall be the hypotenuse. sin 25° = (200 / 2) / Ftens Ftens = 100 / sin 25° Ftens = 236.62 N (Answer) The tension is 236.62 N in each wire. Problem 2: We use the same approach. 100 + x + x = 180 100 + 2x = 180 2x = 180 - 100 2x = 80 (Divide both sides by 2) x = 40° Each wire makes a 40° angle with the horizontal. Calculate the tension force. sin 40° = (200 / 2) / Ftens Ftens = 100 / sin 40° Ftens = 155.57 N (Answer) The tension is 155.57 N in each wire. Hope this helps!
Q: running wire from wall out let to a on and off switch and then to another outlet
need more details!!!
Q: I am connecting a humidstat to furnace. I would normally use furnace/thermostat wire for this purpose except that I need 8 conductors and the largest furnace/thermostat wire seems to be 5 conductors. I would like to use another 18guage 8 conductor wire but not sure if there are any specifications I need to ensure it meets before I can use it inside furnace cabinet.
Standard 18 gauge wire is all you need, they do make it in 8 and 10 conductor, it just takes a little calling around to supply houses to find it. There's is nothing special about the wire specs for thermostat wire as it relates to your furnace so long as you use 18 gauge standed or solid wire. The only exception for thermostat wire is when you get into commercial buildings with an open plenum return air system, any wire used in the plenum cavity must be plenum-rated, which is almost always much more expensive.
Q: Wire runs from breakers to a wall outlet along the garage wall
Ok so the first two answers are almost correct. If the breaker is 20amp it's 12 gauge wire, if it's 15 amps it will be 14 gauge wire. The outlet is in a garage it must be a GFCI receptacle. That's a national electrical code requirement. If the wiring is to be exposed (ie not inside of a wall) then it must be in conduit, cheapest and easiest to install is pvc, you can run romex or NMB through conduit. If the wall is to be sheetrock when finished then you can run just romex through the studs. It is recommended that the GFCI receptacle be mounted in an extra deep box but is not required, makes it easier to get it in there with the wires. You can put up to 8 receptacles or devices, like light fixtures on one 20 amp circuit. More and you will be over loading the circuit. The romex you run should be for 20 amp 12-2 with ground. All circuits and devices must be grounded to be in compliance.
Q: I have looked up wires for this car but the ones that I have looked up tell me i should have different colored wires. These are the wire colors i have:yellowyellow/blackorangepurple/whitewhiteblue/redgreen/blackpink/blackred/blackblue/orangeyellow/redwhite/redgreen/orangePlease Please Please help me!Thanks,Ash
The wire coloring (wiring diagram) for my friends 1997 Mazda Protege LX was as follows: Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Pink/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Yellow Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Orange Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Violet/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow/Red Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Green/Black Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
Q: i need to make a battery powered light bulb and i have copper wire at home...will it work?
Copper wire is rather orange in color. If it is insulated it will be surrounded by a coating of plastic for its entire length. If you cut it and then look at its end the copper wire should be in the middle with the insulation around it like a doughnut. Insulation can be of any color and is not always plastic. The copper wire itself can be either solid and made up of a single strand, or stranded and thus composed of numerous much smaller diameter strands. Stranded wire is more flexible and is the type used commonly for lamps, but sold copper wire, although stiffer, will work as well.
Q: I bought a bathroom fan timer and tried to install it. It has four wires and the wall switch circuit has only 3 wires. What do I do?
sounds like you have one wire short in the box. you need to power the timer. which means you have to use your ground wire for the neutral wire. and this means you have no proper ground. so wire it like this old black to black old white to red old green to new white and to box new green to box. to do it properly you need a 4 wire cable coming into the box and going to the power source or to where there is a proper neutral wire. the thing is the timer wants full power going to it complete with a ground circuit. the switch before it was just that a switch which interrupted the power on one side of the fan so all it needed was 2 wires and the ground to be properly wired
Q: Hello! I'm going to re-wire my speakers and eventually get an amp to power them. For normal quot;door speakerswhat wire size would you recomend to run to them from an amp? Also, is 3ft far enough away to run my speaker wires from the amp power wire? Thanks in advance!
I would use 16 gauge. you can go a little bigger, or smaller. The biggest issue you will have ( vehicle depending ) is getting that wire thru your accordion boot and molex ( the rubber thingy that protects your wires, shaped like an S, and goes from the chassis to the door) <~ that's not talking down to you, but if other people read this, they will know exactly what it means also :D Unless your running a ton of power to your doors, you really don't need thick wires. As to the other part, It's not the speaker wire you need to keep away from your power wire, it's your RCA cables.. The rule is power wire goes down the battery side of the vehicle, and the rca's and remote turn on, go down the opposite side, if possible. That way you don't get alternator whine( when you accelerate, a high pitched whine will play thru your system, and make you Bat-S#it crazy :) Good Luck!
Q: Hi, I've got two new appliances (range hood fan/light and bathroom exhaust fan). Both are installed but not wired. My house is older, build in 1940s and the previous appliances were wired using the existing copper wiring which runs through the house. I'd like to electrically install these new appliances but am concerned about connecting the new appliance wiring (aluminum wiring i think?) to the copper wiring in the house.Is it safe to pigtail these two wires together? Or is there a better, more safe method?Thanks
The appliance wiring is not aluminum, tinned (annealed) copper. It is safe to connect to the copper building wire. Theoretically if you scrape the wire you could skin the tin off and see the copper, but never been able to successfully accomplish that. If you really are worried it using an antioxidant will not hurt anything, but really it won't help. If you look at the cord you will find various letters, if you look up those letters on the net you will find that some have rubber. Rubber is corrosive to copper so the wire is covered in tin.

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