Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 80 mm high-performance
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 pc/month
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Ball Valve For Heating Supply
Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:
Technical introduction
★The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
★The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
★A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
★The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
★The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.
Design Features of Ball valve for heating supply:
Features and Applications
Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
★Main pipelines of heating equipment
★Cross channels of heating pipes
★Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
★Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.
Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:
Actuator | Gear Handwheel customize |
Connection | Flange SW Weld customize |
Medium | Gas Natural gas Water customize |
Medium Temperature | <200< span="">℃ customize |
Application Fields | Electricity Medical Petrochemical customize |
Connection Standard | EN 1092-1 EN 12627 ISO 7-1 customize |
FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:
Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?
The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.
Q2:Which certification do your products pass?
Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001、ISO 14001、API 6A、API 6D、TS CE、API607/6FA/BS6755.
Q3:How can I place an order?
The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type 、quantity and mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.
- Q: My fill valve in my toilet is Korky brand and when I take off the cover to the fill valve it shoots water straight up. Is there a way to fix this or do I just have to replace the fill valve.
- Why are you removing the *cover* on the fill valve? That thing was never meant to come off. I hate to say it, but I think you just destroyed your valve. Go buy a new one, they are cheap and unless they went through a redesign since you bought the last one, the seating tube coming into the tank doesn't even need to be changed. Lefty loosey the damaged valve while putting slight pressure in the downward direction and it will pop out. Just install the new one and don't forget the overflow tube connection. Throw the rest of the stuff away, you won't be needing it (if for some reason in the future you do need it you will never find it again anyway).
- Q: There has been brake fluid leaking below where the Master Cylinder was and pinpointed that the leak was at the base where the steel lines and proportional valve intersect(kinda sprays out out like if a seal is bad or someone didn't tighten enough). Any way to fix this or replace? Vehicle is a 1988 Plymouth Reliant (2.2 liter) Auto, no ABS.
- If you are not familar with brakes I wouldn't suggest tackling this job yourself. You will need to take the line off in question to condemn either the prop valve or the line. I have never in my life seen the line itself leak but I guess it's possible. The valve is a dealer item only, whatever you do, dont buy it from a junk yard. After replacing the valve, if that is what the problem is, most likely you will need to get a brake power bleeder to get all the air out of the system. I would estimate through a shop and the typical mark up on the part, shouldn't be more than 200-225 parts and labor including the brake flush, good luck.
- Q: I was wondering if the pressure relief valve can be vented right under the house or does it have to be ran to the outside of the house. Also is there another method such as a catch pan that I can employ? I live in Washington.
- I would be curious to see what plumbing professionals have to say about this. From what I could find, the codes for water heater relief valves just say that the valve must have a drain pipe that discharges the hot water and steam down low, instead of up near the top where it can spray in your face. They also say that the discharge should be outside of the building, but that this is not always feasible and you can install a drip pan below the water heater for this purpose. In this case, I would think that running the discharge line to underneath the house should be okay. But, I'm not a plumber. For what it's worth, my water heater is in a closet that's accessed from outside and the discharge line from my pressure relief valve just discharges to the bottom of the closet (this was installed by a licensed plumber and signed off by the city on a remodel 2 years ago). Apparently, it's okay to just let the discharged water flow out from underneath the water heater closet door to the outside. So, I don't see why it would be against code to run the discharge line to a crawl space under the house. The point of the codes is to prevent your water heater from exploding and destroying your house (or killing or injuring you).
- Q: Are these valves are a kind of heart chambers pressure sensors?What is keeping them interlocked 2x2?
- It's all mechanical. The valves are passive things kind of like a screen door. When you push on them from one side they open, when you push on them from the other they close. The valves are assisted by some fibers attached to the inside of the heart similar to the way a screen door is helped by a spring attached to the door frame. It's the flowing blood that pushes the valves open or closed as the heart pumps. The path that the blood follows in the heart as it beats happens to make it so that the valves close two at a time. This is because the heart is actually four separate pumps that work two at a time. There's no direct electrical connection to the SA node. The only way they're connected is that the SA node firing is what causes the heart to pump, causing the blood to force the valves open.
- Q: Or is our money stinky? is the $59 we paid not equivalent to that paid by xbox360 ps3? Please help!! I am sick of getting killed every 5 minutes. Is VAC false advertising?
- Valve?! Valve has nothing to do with COD MW2. Valve makes much BETTER games.
- Q: The hot water in my bathroom is leaking from the faucet. I've shut off the valve below the sink, but it continues to dribble out. Also, there appears to be some rust build-up. Could that account for a failing valve?
- It sounds like your shutoff valve is not working properly. You need to shut off the hot water at the main valve where it comes out of the water heater (this will shut off all hot water in the house); drain the line (there's a little knob on the main shutoff valve you can twist that will allow the water in the pipe to drip out), then replace the shutoff valve. The shutoff valve is probably threaded pipe and can be loosened using two wrenches (hold the pipe with one wrench and twist the nut with the other - you want to conteract the twisting motion on the pipe so the pipe does not weaken and burst, which is why the one wrench needs to hold the pipe). once the valve is removed, clean the pipe threads with a wire brush and cleaning solvent to remove the rust and install the new valve. Be sure to read the manufacturer's directions to see if you need to wrap the threads with teflon tape first. When the valve is replaced, you can turn on the main hot water valve at the water heater; then use the new shutoff valve when you prepare to repair or replace the faucet. I would expect the faucet is leaking due to worn out washers, you can take it apart and tell. I susupect the rust you see is a result of the leak and not the other way around.
- Q: I got a cold air intake installed on my vehicle and don't have any AEM bypass valve installed, for preventing hydrolock. If I drill a small hole(e.g 1cm) on the intake(short ram section) can that prevent hydrolock or do I still have to get one of those bypass valves?I'm looking for any alternatives, instead of those AEM bypass valves and was wondering if drilling a small hole in the cold air intake could help in preventing hydrolock, just as good as the AEM bypass valve.
- Only version 1 of the AEM CAI's could even use the bypass valve. Version 2 will not work with this bypass. This bypass valve is pressure sensitive and set up to open if the air flow was blocked at the filter. It also has a foam filter on it to still give you some filtration of the air. You do not want to drill a hole in the intake. This will allow unfiltered air to enter your intake and reduce the efficiency of the intake system. I'm not sure what kind of car you have this system on, but on my Accord, the filter was moved down inside the front bumper just in front of the drivers tire. It is surrounded by plastic and has minimal chance of any water splashing in to it. The only way I can see water getting to it is if I were to try and drive in to a large Pool of water in which it would have to be higher than the floor of the car. Anyone who would even attempt such a thing would be a fool in the first place for trying to run through such high water. If you have the Version 1 AEM, get the bypass valve. Don't drill holes. If you have the Version 2 which can not use this valve, just don't try to use your car as a boat. You shouldn't have any problems. TGP
- Q: Im putting in a new EGR Valve for my 94' Mazda MX-3 V6 1.8L and i was wondering if anyone had a guide or some special tips on what or what not to do...Thanks.
- One thing people don't do is bring the old EGR Valve with them to match it up with the new one before leaving the auto parts store. I would suggest doing this FIRST, if it is possible to get a ride to the parts store. I know you can't do this if the MX-3 is your only car lol. Be careful and take your time, do not rush and take digital pics before job is started so you know how or where things were durring re-assembly. And I do hope it is warm wherever you are doing this job,lol. Good question!
- Q: Kenmore washer ,cold water trickles in, pressure from faucet OK. Must entire valve be replaced?
- You probably can not find a rebuilt valve or get the parts to rebuild one. If needed, it will probably need to be completely replaced. There is a good chance you do not have a valve issue. Turn the water valve off and remove the cold water line at the back of the washer. Inside the hose or on the washer itself, there should be a metal screen in the line that somewhat filters the valve and protects it from getting clogged with sediment. Remove the screen and clean or replace it. If the screen wire is not at the washer end try the valve end of the cold water line. While your there you may want to clean the hot water side also. If you are unable to clean the screen, new ones are available for minimal money at hardware stores. Yes the screen wire is necessary, by removing the line additional sediment may very well go into the valve when you turn on the water and cause a valve problem if you don't have one now.
- Q: My valve covers are leaking how do I take the intake off my v6 firebird?
- I would recommend taking it to a shop if you have to take off a intake. There can be some major problems that can occur like water going into the oil and messing up your engine if you dont seal it right, i would hold responsible the person doing the work.
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Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 80 mm high-performance
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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