• Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance System 1
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance System 2
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance System 3
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance System 4
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance System 5
Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN  80 mm  high-performance

Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 80 mm high-performance

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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Ball Valve For Heating Supply

Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:

Technical introduction

The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.

                                             

Design Features  of Ball valve for heating supply:

Features and Applications

Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
Main pipelines of heating equipment
Cross channels of heating pipes
Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.

 

Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:

Actuator

 Gear  Handwheel customize 

Connection

 Flange  SW  Weld customize 

Medium

 Gas  Natural   gas  Water customize 

Medium Temperature

 <200< span=""> customize 

Application Fields

 Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

Connection Standard

 EN 1092-1  EN 12627  ISO   7-1 customize 

FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Q:I recently converted my furnace from l.p. gas to natural gas. It's been maybe two weeks of me troubleshooting and replacing. I have a new gas valve and transformer in the furnace. There is 24v running to the valve and it clicks to open but no gas comes out. I have exhausted all my options with the mechanical/electrical components on the furnace. I have bled the valve to be sure that there was gas making it to the inlet side. Does anyone have an idea as to why the valve stopped opening once I converted it over?
I don't know if this will help without seeing your furnace but this is similar to what happened when I light ours in the fall.Where the pilot light is if you have one there is a wire sensor and that gets dirty sometimes and needs cleaned at the tip by the pilot,on ours it connects to the gas valve and signals it to open.Good luck to you hope this helps,it also could be a bad valve.
Q:I am having a leaky valve is that normal? the doctor said that it is normal what do i do?
A leaky valve is not normal, but it is not uncommon. Your valves are designed to let your blood flow in only one direction through the heart. When the valve flaps do not close completely, blood can flow backward through the leaky valve. Depending on the severity of the leakage, the heart must work harder to maintain adequate blood flow to the body. It can be present in your * mitral valve * aortic valve Less common, but still possible, in your * tricuspid valve * pulmonary valve Currently, no medicines can cure heart valve disease, but lifestyle changes and medicines can often treat symptoms and delay complications for many years. Many people with leaky valves live very normal, active lives. Get regular checkups - at least once a year. Usually this will include an echocardiogram (ultrasound of your heart). If the performance of your valve is not deteriorating or causing damage to your heart muscle, your doctor may choose to monitor you on a regular basis as opposed to surgery. If the leakage is minor, your doctor may not recommend any treatment. On the other hand, if the leakage is significant and causes symptoms, you may need to have a valve replacement. Good luck!
Q:My pressure reducing valve (or restricting valve) was looked at by three master plumbers and they all said I need a new one. My water pressure has been low for weeks. It measures about 100 psi at the outside hose bibs, but it is very low inside and suddenly reduces after you turn on the facets inside. The shower is ok. My automatic sprinkler system is not able to work now due to low pressure. A relative of mine thinks we can just add a handle (as one is missing) on the valve and adjust the pressure ourselves. The repair of the valve is around $500-600! I am told in Texas that we have to have a permit and inspection to repair this valve. Also I was told by the last plumber that came out, that I have to install a expansion tank on my new hot water heater according to code. I'm not sure if that is a city code or federal. Please respond as to information you may have on this problem. The expansion tank is required I'm told when you have a pressure reducing valve for safety, is this true?
The cost you quoted seems a bit high to me. Mine didn't cost anywhere near that amount in East Texas. A pressure reducing valve acts like a check valve when there is no flow. That is it closes as the pressure rises when you are not using any water. In this condition, the hot water heater can raise the pressure even higher since there is no place for the expanding water to go. That is the reason for the expansion tank. Without the expansion tank the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater can relieve unnecessarily or weep a bit.
Q:So i was driving down the highway and my car just turned off. I turned the key but nothing. My lights were on and everything. I took it to a repair guy and he told me that the timing belt was broken, so i paid to have it fixed. Then he told me something about a compressioner or something, i paid for that, then he told me the valve was bent, so i was pissed and said i wouldn't pay. He was going to charge me about 550. I had already paid him about 250. and i think he was scamming me was I wrong? Does that sound right? Also how would I go about fixing?
if ur timing belt cuts off on the highway then one or more of your valves will be bent and its realy expensive to fix and if fixed engine wont be the same happend to my friends accord so the best thing you do is get a new engine and have instaled,, go to spanish mechanic they fix good for realy cheap
Q:I have a Chevy Silverado 2500 5.7L V8. I have been having problems with passing smog. First one failed because it needed a new cat. Replaced it and tested again. NOx emissions are off the chart (1450/1006 max of 992/59615/25mph). I replaced the EGR valve based on a suggestion. Quick test today said the NOx emissions are still way off. Suggested that I change the EGR solenoid valve and also pull the EGR valve and use a coat hanger to clean some of the carbon build up. I purchased a new solenoid today but looking at it I noticed something. Since there are what are appear to be two ports on one side of the solenoid, I must have replaced the vacuum hose onto the wrong one after replacing the EGR valve. How much would this make a difference on the test readings taken? Would it be beneficial to just replace the solenoid anyway or try to test again with the current one but connected properly?
Need to know the YEAR of your 2500 Silverado! ADDED: Thanks for the additional information, Yes that will cause an issue if the vacuum solenoid is connected wrong, but is very important to pay attention to what EGR valve is being installed (as this vehicle came with 2 different types of EGR valves (the negitive backpressure and the positive backpressure type) Here is how to test it: 1. Check the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve solenoid to have only 2 wires. If it does, the EGR valve is a negative back pressure style valve identified by an N stamped after the number on the valve. 2. With this type of valve, the solenoid is an on/off type and the scan tool control is 0/100%. To check the valve, pump the valve up/open by using a hand vacuum pump with the engine off. Start the engine and the valve should slam closed, and the vacuum on the hand pump should go to 0 inches. The engine should start normal. The EGR valve should not pull open with the engine idling when vacuum is reapplied. An internal bleed will dump off any vacuum applied until a certain amount of exhaust backpressure is applied to the valve. 3. If the valve moves, replace it using an Original Equipment (OE) part using the number on the valve that is calibrated per application. 4. If there are no problems found with the valve, install a vacuum gauge in-line with the solenoid and EGR valve and test drive to monitor the amount of vacuum applied. 5. The valve should have vacuum applied when in gear and off idle. Vehicle speed is needed on some models (manual transmission). ADDED: I don't know if you understand but, If your valve has N (negative) stamped on top and you have a 2 wire EGR vacuum solenoid than everything is correct!
Q:Its stuck to an angle where the metal parts of the wheel block the air pump from letting it secure itself around the valve so i cant put air in, it all comes out the sides, i dont want to have to replace anything for i dont know much about bikes, but any solution to my problem? Thanks
you will need to undo the valve and straighten up the tube, then try to pump it up again. The wosrt case seario you may need a new tube, which will only cist about $5
Q:Exhaust valve opening (EVO)Intake valve opening (IVO)
HI You answered it your self... exhaust valve opening (EVO) is when the exhaust valve opens.. and the same for the intake (IVO).. When the EVO happens the motor pushes the exhaust (burnt fuel) out of the motor when the IVO happens it sucks gas into the motor to get burned and make power.. Exampe of a 4 strock motor. 1) piston goes down , sucking in air and fuel (IVO) 2) piston goes up compressing the air and fuel spark plug fires ignighting the fuel 3) piston goes down turning the crank powering the car from the explosion of Fuel. 4) piston goes back up pushing the spent fuel out. (EVO) then repeats. On a 4 cylinder car this happens 4 different times on an 8 cylinder car 8 different times and on 6 cylinder car 6 different times. When one cylender is firing another well be coming up to push out its spent fuel and another well be going down drawing in fuel and so forth.. good luck tim EDIT IVC = intake valve closes EVC= exhaust valve closes
Q:Im living in an a house previously own but abandonded , and im trying to get water, the thing is the pipe where the shut off valve is is dettached , and i dont know where to reattach it nor do i see the missing pipes to reassemble what does the main shut off valve attach to in my house?
the water line is probably a copper 2 line coming into the house...where it meets the water meter and on the other side of the meter is a shut off valve then it goes into the house. perhaps the water is shut off at the street
Q:How do I adjust the valves on a 96 Blazer, 4.3 V6? When we tighten them to torque specs there is no compression, then when we loosen them and get compression, they loosen up to loose after its been running...any help!, THanks!
i think the older chevys, you could adjust the valves, but i think now they are self adjustment. what you do is take no:1 rocker and turn the crank, until its all the way down on the low cam and then torque the bolt to specs, do the rest the same way. but if they are adjustable, start your blazer and loosen the rocker until you hear the lifter, then tighten it until it stops, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. do the rest of them the same way.
Q:I got a cold air intake installed on my vehicle and don't have any AEM bypass valve installed, for preventing hydrolock. If I drill a small hole(e.g 1cm) on the intake(short ram section) can that prevent hydrolock or do I still have to get one of those bypass valves?I'm looking for any alternatives, instead of those AEM bypass valves and was wondering if drilling a small hole in the cold air intake could help in preventing hydrolock, just as good as the AEM bypass valve.
This would not need a bypass valve. Short answer, NEVER drill holes in your intake behind the filter.

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