• Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance System 1
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance System 2
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance System 3
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance System 4
  • Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance System 5
Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance

Ball Valve For Heating SupplyDN 50 mm high-performance

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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Ball Valve For Heating Supply

Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:

Technical introduction

The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.

                                             

Design Features  of Ball valve for heating supply:

Features and Applications

Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
Main pipelines of heating equipment
Cross channels of heating pipes
Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.

 

Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:

Actuator

 Gear  Handwheel customize 

Connection

 Flange  SW  Weld customize 

Medium

 Gas  Natural   gas  Water customize 

Medium Temperature

 <200< span=""> customize 

Application Fields

 Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

Connection Standard

 EN 1092-1  EN 12627  ISO   7-1 customize 

FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Q:Ive been tolding one or more of my valves is/are knocking, how can I fix this. Detail would be great, this is for a F0RD 460, from a 90. I was wondering if I can just buy some used heads(not sure if this comes with these things called valves, haha)but I can pick up some 460 heads, for pretty cheap.. on those and do a full swap, since mine is from 90 i dont know if year would matter. So how can I fix knocking valves., thanks
Valve noise is usually caused by a bad hydraulic lifter, or a worn cam lobe, sometimes wear in the rocker arms also. I don't think changing the heads would help much in your case. I woud get a good mechanic to listen to it, and tell you first ok, because sometimes, just changing the oil and putting in an additive will stop noisy valves good luck
Q:I just got a new set of tired 2 months ago. The last 3 weeks I've had a separate tire go flat (3 in total). The last 3 the repair company said they were caused by cracked valve stems. So after the 3rd time it happened they replaced all valve stems on each tire. Now today I just got a 4th flat. That's 1 each week for the past 4 weeks. I'm taking into the shop this afternoon for them to inspect the tire. I suspect they will say it's again the valve stem. Any help on what I can do or what to say or ask to get them to fix the problem instead of just putting another bandaid on it? I'm very concerned about my safety and it really sucks that everytime i get into my car, I have to wonder, am i going to get a flat tire today...
There are only a couple of spots that the tire / wheel assembly is going to leak. Through the valve stem or along the lip where the side of the tire meets the rim. My guess would be that they did not do a good enough job removing debris (corrosion, dirt, etc.) from the rim before they mounted the new tires. With that many flats, you should have them remove the tires and clean the sealing surface. They would prefer not to do this because it means they have to mount and balance the tire again, but it is probably the only way repair the problem. Unless they have a bad batch of valve stems, there is no way that many should fail.
Q:Hey,I have a 1/2 diameter pipe and I want to place a valve on it. I need a valve that can be electronically controlled so the water flow can be started and stopped on demand. I plan to achieve this by connecting the valve to a 'relay' that will be connected to an ardunio or PIC that will programmed to determine when the water is to flow or stop. That make sense? So my question does anyone know a suitable type of valve? I've no experience with valves and there are so many types so I don't know where to start!I would be grateful for any suggestions :)Thanks!
Your application is very do-able. ASCO makes a valve that would work for your application. A few used ones can be found on Ebay. A few thoughts: 1) The normal fitting that you would need for the mechanical connection is 1/2 NPT (National Pipe Thread). That is a very common thread in the US. If you have a PVC pipe, you would have to get a fitting to convert 1/2NPT fitting to smooth PVC. If you have a steel pipe, then it has to be threaded for 1/2 NPT. If it is copper, you may have to get a smooth ASCO valve and solder it together. Use teflon tape or pipe dope to make sure that it doesn't leak. 2) Be very careful of your voltage and current. Your relay coil should be a voltage and current draw that will not be too much for the ardunio or PIC output. Also, the relay contact should be able to provide enough current and voltage to run the ASCO valve. BE CAREFUL. ASCO valves have a lot of inrush current, which means that it draws a lot more power to activate that it would be to hold it. Your relay should be sized for the worst case. For example, if the ASCO valve is rated for 120 volts ac (VAC) and is rated at 240VA inrush and 12VA holding, that means that it requires 2 amps to pull it in (240/120) and .1 amps to hold it (12/120). The contacts of your relay should then be rated for at least 120VAC and 2 amps.
Q:The water in my tub/shower stopped working. I did my research on the net to discover the cause and I also went to Home Depot explained the problem. The worker at home depot helped me get the right part I needed to replace the valve stem. I came home, took the faucet handle off and can see what I need to do next. Everything seems perfect and ready to go, except I can't remove the old valve stem. It seems like the old one should just slide out and the new one replaces it. How do I get the old one out without damaging any of the pipes or hurting myself.
Check back on your website to see if they have the procedure for removing/installing the new stem. These usually have to be turned to allow them to be removed. You should be able to purchase a tool to help you release it. Also, be aware the old stem could be hard to remove due to build-up and/or torn seals. After you get it our, try to remve and deposits in the valve and then apply a little lubricant to the new stem before you insert it. Be sure the lubricant is compatable with the seals.
Q:I am 16, and i have a leaky heart valve. What makes it worse so i can try to prevent from it getting worse? please help.
It would be very helpful to know which valve is involved. At your age a bicuspid aortic valve would be the most common congenital heart lesion. Regurgitation tends to increase over time no matter what is done. There is nothing that you will be able to do to prevent this from getting worse if that is the nature of the valvular abnormality. If you provide me with additional information I may be able to offer a more thorough and thoughtful response. I wish you the very best of health and in all things may God bless. JR
Q:Hi! I have three brass gate valves surrounding a filter for my well. They are starting to show some signs of leaking. I realize that I might need to replace them... or, there seems to be a couple of places where they could be adjusted. Is this something I should do? Or, if I need to replace them, can you help me put a name to this type of valve so I can have an easier time tracking them down ?
if its the nut with the green residue on it just give it a little tighten if they still leek you can undue the nut an wrap ptf tape (plumbers tape) round the into the space left and screw it back in make sure the bigger nut going into the body of the valve does not come loose ( roll the tape in your hand so it more rope like wrap it around or even just poke it with a small screwdriver then tighten up ) O and think it is a male to male gate valve
Q:Hi all,My 1995 nissan altima (122k on the odometer) stalled for a few minutes this morning. I noticed that one of the sparkplug holes ( where the cable from the distributer connects to the spark plug) is sorrounded by oil. I cleaned it out and it got filled with oil again. luckily for me, and by god's grace it somehow started normally and i drove home. I am sure its the valve gasket. There is not much oil leakage, the oil level is fine.I need to know if its going to damage my engine if I ignored the problem for 3-4days.Thanks.
The part itself is less than $100. It's a little rubber gasket that goes inbetween the valve cover and the engine block to make a tight seal between the middle and top of the engine. Depending on which engine you have (the 4 or the V-6), it can be a VERY simple fix with about an hour's labor because the valve cover is on top. However, some (very few) cars require you to remove the motor to get to the cover. If this is the case, 7 hours seems about right.
Q:My husband just found out that one of the heart valves is 100% blocked and the other 3 are 90% or more blocked . He is 78 years old he Is nearly non mobile. What kind of treatment would you suggest?
A heart valve can't be 100% blocked. The heart simply couldn't function. On the other hand, coronary arteries can be blocked as you described. Normally, 4 vessel disease is treated with bypass surgery. In a high risk patient, angioplasty might be an option. However, if he is not having cardiac symptoms , or if he is thought to be TOO high risk, the option is medical treatment. Sit down for a talk with his cardiologist.
Q:Hi all,My buddys ford 460 has stuck valves. Where do I start? Could I notice anything by removing the valve covers, or do I have to remove the heads? Is it possible to unstick them without removing the heads? Assuming they stuck from sitting. What's the chance it bent the pushrods if it was running when they stuck? Can I check this without removing the heads? I'm not too familiar with this engine.
a valve stuck in the open position when cranked by a starter motor can put a hole in the piston it depends on which 460 7.5L you have some are flat top some are popups where centers are raised ive seen both in stock motors motorhead is right you can free them but you'll wanna soak them down constantly for a week or so remember they didnt get like that over night DO NOT crank over with starter use bolt on balancer as you'll feel resistance should you encounter a stuck open valve its so much easier with heads off but you can see the guides by removing valve covers if your valves are stuck your guide seal are junk trust me

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