• Pressure Reducing Valve Made In China System 1
Pressure Reducing Valve Made In China

Pressure Reducing Valve Made In China

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Application:
A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.

Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:

♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves

♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels

Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows

♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C

♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)

♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527

Features:

♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.

♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.

♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.

♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.

Q: I have a 66' malibu el camino with a 283 sbc and a powerglide transmission! I have bee noticing a ticking noise on the motor and it miss kind at a rhythm. I took the valve covers off and noticed pieces of metal right by the front of the motor on the head. It is where the #1 piston is. Some of them have kind of a rounded off shape to them. I dont see anything wrong with the springs. but its dark and i cant really see. I also noticed on the even side 2/4/6/8 some of the rocker arms are loose? Some may be loose on the odd side too. not sure, i didnt check them. I found them right where the hole is where im guessing where the oil comes in. What do yall think? It idles kind of rough and i have noticed a loss of power? do i have broken valve springs or something? Thanks for the answers!!!!
do you know if you have a siloit cam or hydric cam .if soliet can need to adjust vale lash .and if popping back through carbator have wipe cam you need check by local shop . had to tell from your info
Q: I am buying a 2004 Ford Taurus tomorrow and want to know the difference between a 24 valve V-6, and 12 valve V-6...Now besides the obvious difference in the # of valves...Is one better then the other???
The 24 Valves were marked with DOHC on the Engine and on the outside of the car.
Q: I am replacing the Camshaft, lifters, and timing chain on a SBC 350. The motor is still in the car and I have the valve covers and manifold removed (and other components). The camshaft break-in procedure recommends removing the inner valve springs and running engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes. MY QUESTION: I have the valve spring compressor tool to remove the springs. HOW do I prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder when I remove the spring? Can I conduct the break in without removing the inner valve springs?
Depending on the position of the plug holes relative to the valves you just might be able to fashion a piece of realy stiff, strong wire into a support for the valves whilst you remove the springs, but this would also depend on the spring compressor not needing to use the head on the valve to do the compressing. It is highly likely that with everything in your favour the above method will fail and you will be obliged to remove the head. I would simply remove the to take out the springs and then remove it again to replace them after running in.
Q: In my condo, I have what appears to be a water relief valve of some sort right after my water inlet pipe. It's after the water cutoff valve. It's not the water heater relief valve. It has a leak, not bad, just a drip right now. It looks like a half baseball sticking out of the main inlet pipe with a bolt in the center of it. I've tried to tighten it but that makes the leak worse. First, what is this. Second, Is there an obvious fix to this. Third, if I have to get it replaced, what model/manufacturer can I get so that this doesn't happen for a long while. My plumbing is short of fifteen years old.
It sounds like a cold water relief valve, also known as a thermal expansion valve. It leaks when your city pressure exceeds 100psi (factory setting) or the set pressure. Code requires pressure to be below 80 psi. A Watts 530C will do the trick. It is adjustable. It will cost you about $30.00 - $40.00 + labor to remove old install new. If it is a pressure reducing valve, a new one will cost about $125.00. It lowers your pressure when it exceeds max allowable per the plumbing code, 80 psi here in Florida. I use the Watts 1 25AUB-Z3 Pressure Reducing Valve for these applications and set it at 60 psi.
Q: I have a 2006 saturn vue that has a valve tap in the engine. The car has about 100k miles on it now. I'm the original owner of the car, and I've had the problem with the valve tap since about 50k miles, and even when taking it to saturn dealerships, I was told it was nothing and the car was fine. Now that I know what it is (I took it to another mechanic that was a friend who went over it with a 'fine tooth comb') I ahve done research and know what can go wrong a little too late :(So my question: My car only makes the tapping sound for about 5 or so minutes when i turn the car on, then it goes away and you can't hear it anymore, is this usual for a valve tap?
Keep eye on oil level and keep on driveing.
Q: and i want to but over size valve seatscan i do it in a 1991 chevy chenynne k2500
Jasons $1500 quote is way over priced. Valve seats crack due to heat and age. Its a common prob with chevy heads really. Price at a machine shop to replace the seats and do a valve job will be about $400 If your wanting to go larger on the valves, then you will need new valves ($75-150) Now why do you want larger valves in a stock head? Most chevy heads has 1.84 or 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves. I had 1.94/1.50's on my 355 making 505 HP, and running mid 11's 1/4 mile in a camaro. I have now stepped up to 2.02/1.60 It might be cheaper and better for you to buy an aftermarket set of heads with the larger valves if thats what you want. Aftermarket heads range from about $600 to 1200 a pair. I bought a new bare set of alum brodix IK 200cc heads for under $700, then bought all parts I needed to build them with for about $175
Q: the water coming out of the kitchen faucet has been getting weaker and weaker this week and now it flows a 3 out of 10. The thought it might be time to replace the faucet/faucet washer. I went to turn off the water under the sink.. hot and cold valve but water still comes out of the faucet with enough force aka not a dip but free flowing water. I turned the red handle valve to off as well but same thing. I am totally thrown off. HOt and cold water still comes out of faucet. When I push the faucet handle down, the water does not stop right away as well but slowly stops. No problem water into dish washer. I have replaced numerous faucets but I can not figure how water is still getting to the faucet after turning all 3 valves to shut off position. I still think it might be the faucet but now I am not sure. I am close to calling a plumber but really do not want to do that. thx
shut off you water main first so you can check on your kitchens isolation valves. unscrew your valve try to replace the wornout rubber gasket. unscrew your faucet and clean the faucet with brush and clean the strainer of your faucet. change the gasket or ceramic valve of your fauset replace them. i hope this will solve your problem.
Q: instead of just buying a replacement, is there an easy way off the valve to check if it's still good?
dio, yes, if your sprinkler control valve is not opening a zone valve in the automatic mode, then manually turn the solenoid on the zone valve counterclockwise, it sprinklers come on , then you have confirmed a bad solenoid. these can be purchased seperately or another oprtion is a complete zone valve dio, well, if water is flowing thru then the solenoid is not sealing on the zone valve body itslef. unless there is debris between the solenoid washer and zone valve body, then sounds like a bad solenoid...
Q: I have a 2001 Chrysler 300 m. About a year ago it cut off on the interstate. The mechanic told me my timing belt broke and i had three burnt valves. The timing belt is already fixed, but I was wondering what parts were needed for the other. also what is the estimated price to fix this?
Burnt valves or, far more likely, bent valves. Either way, you'll need to basically overhaul the top end - you'll need to replace the bad valves and the top end gasket set along with any machine work that may be necessary. Estimates will vary greatly from facility to facility and also from different areas. To get a valid estimate for your locality, you need to get local estimates.

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