Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps JYWQ System 1

Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps JYWQ

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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JYWQ Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps

Product description
JYWQ series automatic agitating sewage pumps are conventional sewage pumps plus an automatic agitator. This device runs along with the motor shaft, producing considerable agitating power to make the sediment in sewage pool into suspension, and then being pumped out. This has improved the anti-clogging and sewage handling capacity of pump. The work of water discharge, sewage and silt clearance is completed at the same time, which has reduced operating cost. It is really an environmental friendly product of advanced practicality.

Application

It is applicable for chemical, petroleum, pharmacy, mining, papermaking, power plant, urban sewage treatment , municipal engineering and public facilities to handle sewage and feculence containing particles

Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 600 m³/h

Head: up to 40 m

Speed: max 2900 rpm

Temperature: max 30 °C

Casing pressure: up to 1.1MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

Data sheet

Model	Discharge (mm)	Flow (m3/h)	Head (m)	Speed (r/min)	Power (KW)	Efficiency (%)	Weight (Kg)
25-8-22-1.1	φ25	8	22	2900	1.1	38	42
32-12-15-1.1	φ32	12	15	2900	1.1	48	42
40-15-15-1.5	φ40	15	15	2900	1.5	45	52
40-15-30-2.2	φ40	15	30	2900	2.2	48	55
50-20-7-0.75	φ50	20	7	2900	0.75	54	50
50-10-10-0.75	φ50	10	10	2900	0.75	56	50
50-25-10-1.5	φ50	25	10	2900	1.5	56	60
50-20-15-1.5	φ50	20	15	2900	1.5	55	55
50-27-15-2.2	φ50	27	15	2900	2.2	56	60
50-12-25-2.2	φ50	15	25	2900	2.2	56	60
50-18-30-3	φ50	18	30	2900	3	58	70
50-24-20-4	φ50	24	20	2900	4	60	85
50-40-15-4	φ50	40	15	2900	4	60	85
50-25-32-5.5	φ50	25	32	2900	5.5	53	100
50-30-30-7.5	φ50	30	30	2900	7.5	56	110
50-20-40-7.5	φ50	20	40	2900	7.5	55	110
65-42-9-2.2	φ65	42	9	2900	2.2	56	60
65-25-15-2.2	φ65	25	15	2900	2.2	52	60
65-37-13-3	φ65	37	13	2900	3	55	70

Q: I recently changed the lower unit, and am having no water out the top 2 ports just below the powerhead, also the engine is getting heated up. any other pumps other than in the lower unit?any advice is appreciated.: well on my mercury i have a water impellor/you have that 2 thermostats/dont know if you have them and a popit valve those 3 things check them

Q: I am taking my car in for a timing bell replacement. My car is a honda accord 2001 6 cycl. The mileage is 80K still way under the manufacturer recommendation. I am thinking of replacing the oil pump and water pump. I am thinking that since the engine is already opened might as well get this done. I don't know if this is necessary. Are these items even closed to the timing belt area? Does anyone have any recommendation when this should be done ?: Oil pump should be replace when engine is getting rebuild Oil pump at 80k = no Water pump with timing belt is preventive maintnanace thing. To replace water pump require removing timing belt. Most people just go ahead and pay extra to have water pump replace at same time with timing belt. Shop should just charge your cost of parts for water pump and coolant. water pump with timing belt is your call.

Q: In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!: The reasons are as follows:(1) motor guide bearing wear, water pump rubber bearing wear, sealing ring wearMotor or water pump bearings wear, will make the submersible pump in the machine on the wrong state of work, serious damage to submersible pumps, stator windings burned. The method is to repair or replace damaged bearings and bushings.(2) thrust bearing wear, submerged pump impeller and lower cover wearThis situation will also make the submersible pump on the machine in an abnormal state of work, serious damage to the submersible pump. The treatment method is to check the cause of the wear of the thrust bearing. Whether the mechanical seal of the shaft extension is damaged or not, which causes sand particles and impurities to enter the inner cavity of the motor, causes excessive wear of the thrust bearing. If it is caused by the mechanical seal of the submersible pump, the replacement of the thrust bearing, thrust plate and impeller, lower cover plate and other parts shall be replaced by mechanical seals at the shaft extension end.(3) the flow of the submersible pump is too large or too smallThe use of submersible pumps flow beyond the scope of use will make the motor overload of centrifugal pump or mixed flow pump, excessive flow, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload; for the axial flow pump, the flow is too small, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload. The treatment method is to adjust the valve properly, reduce the flow rate of the centrifugal pump or the mixed flow pump (increase the axial flow pump), and make the flow of the pump in the normal range of use.(4) the shaft of the submersible pump is bent and the bearings are not concentricThis is a serious case of submersible pumps, should be immediately overhauled, straighten the bent shaft, replace the unqualified bearings, re assembled submersible pumps.

Q: The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks: drive your boat as fast and far as you can. at that point you will find if anything is broken. i say if it ain't broke don't fixit!!! if it brakes then you know what to fix. since it hard to get to your water pump just take your motor out and rebuild the whole thing. welcome to boating.

Q: When I buy submersible pump, the other party did not inform is the aluminum submersible pump, water pump factory production of aluminum submersible pump illegal? Is it against the law to sell the pump to the pump without informing me?: No, the state does not have special laws to prohibit the use of aluminium wireIn fact, the aluminum core wire or mechanical or good, low prices, especially in the dry environment of small and medium-sized mechanical and electrical, with good performance. Only in the submersible pump, because aluminum is easier than copper wire, moisture infiltration, bacteria and other corruption, and its survival time is sometimes less than copper wire. But the pump inlet, aluminum often requires rewinding coil, because of a small submersible pump well around Electromechanical General scrap. Therefore, the quality of submersible pumps will not generally use aluminum, but the production of aluminum submersible pump is not illegal, but in the sale should be based on the principle of honest business detailed notification.

Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator: it would,nt be the heater core because it,s a good ways from the water pump. it might be that the water pump gasket slipped when you were putting it on or the by-pass hose is bad or loose. check all the hoses like both radiator hoses and where the heater hoses hook up to the block.

Q: I just replaced my water pump.fixed.. A week later I've been noticing he might of over filled it because.were the coolant goes.steam comes.out.the little.while plus water.. And.before.I.started my.car I noticed.it was all empty now and my.engine sounds like a mini diesel when it runs.. What's the deal? And I.already filled it up with coolant again: Anytime you replace your water pump. You should replace the thermostat and gasket. Also check the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if either one of them are collapsed.It wouldn't hurt to replace the radiator cap.

Q: How to design its control circuit, to prevent it idling, what peripheral equipment do you need?: The centrifugal pump can not be idle, idle will wear packing (packing seal, mechanical seal is almost not damaged) parts, also caused the seal ring, seal, etc. the balance disc wear quickly, and the temperature will rise sharply, causing damage; air transfer effects caused by transient overload voltage of the motor is large, if the motor can not automatically jump to motor will burn.Centrifugal pump mostly rely on the delivery of liquid lubrication and cooling seal of centrifugal pump, idling is empty load, is to open the inlet valve, close the exit valve operation can move, try reversing or empty load operation should be based on the inevitable time, pump specification shall prevail.

Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?: id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.

Q: I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!: We have owned Honda's for years, including three 90's Civics. We have had the timing belts changed by the dealer also - also the cheapest price - and they have always recommended changing the tensioner and the water pump while in there. The timing belt is such a critical piece of equipment that is should be changed on schedule. The new belts go much longer than the old belts. But it's only a hundred more at most to have the water pump replaced at the same time so make them do it. If you water pump goes out in another 20000 miles, the labor charge to get to it will be 400 or 500 bucks. Most dealerships will do the water pump for parts cost markup if they are also doing your timing belt. You can also negotiate your price with a dealership. Try it. If they won't budge, find a new dealer.

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