Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps JYWQ System 1

Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps JYWQ

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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JYWQ Auto Mill Submersible Sewage Pumps

Product description
JYWQ series automatic agitating sewage pumps are conventional sewage pumps plus an automatic agitator. This device runs along with the motor shaft, producing considerable agitating power to make the sediment in sewage pool into suspension, and then being pumped out. This has improved the anti-clogging and sewage handling capacity of pump. The work of water discharge, sewage and silt clearance is completed at the same time, which has reduced operating cost. It is really an environmental friendly product of advanced practicality.

Application

It is applicable for chemical, petroleum, pharmacy, mining, papermaking, power plant, urban sewage treatment , municipal engineering and public facilities to handle sewage and feculence containing particles

Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 600 m³/h

Head: up to 40 m

Speed: max 2900 rpm

Temperature: max 30 °C

Casing pressure: up to 1.1MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

Data sheet

Model	Discharge (mm)	Flow (m3/h)	Head (m)	Speed (r/min)	Power (KW)	Efficiency (%)	Weight (Kg)
25-8-22-1.1	φ25	8	22	2900	1.1	38	42
32-12-15-1.1	φ32	12	15	2900	1.1	48	42
40-15-15-1.5	φ40	15	15	2900	1.5	45	52
40-15-30-2.2	φ40	15	30	2900	2.2	48	55
50-20-7-0.75	φ50	20	7	2900	0.75	54	50
50-10-10-0.75	φ50	10	10	2900	0.75	56	50
50-25-10-1.5	φ50	25	10	2900	1.5	56	60
50-20-15-1.5	φ50	20	15	2900	1.5	55	55
50-27-15-2.2	φ50	27	15	2900	2.2	56	60
50-12-25-2.2	φ50	15	25	2900	2.2	56	60
50-18-30-3	φ50	18	30	2900	3	58	70
50-24-20-4	φ50	24	20	2900	4	60	85
50-40-15-4	φ50	40	15	2900	4	60	85
50-25-32-5.5	φ50	25	32	2900	5.5	53	100
50-30-30-7.5	φ50	30	30	2900	7.5	56	110
50-20-40-7.5	φ50	20	40	2900	7.5	55	110
65-42-9-2.2	φ65	42	9	2900	2.2	56	60
65-25-15-2.2	φ65	25	15	2900	2.2	52	60
65-37-13-3	φ65	37	13	2900	3	55	70

Q:94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks: Pay an automotive repair shop to do it. Then it is their problem. Even the best technicians need help once in a while. Yes it costs 3x as much, but no more headache for you.

Q:2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.: To be sure that its the water pump or not, try this simple practical procedure; 1. remove the coolant reservoir cover (the pressure tank) 2. make sure the water level in it is up to the recommended maximum level 3. start the engine, and see if water is returning to the water reservoir via the return hose/pipe, and if the water is moving down the inlet hose to the engine block 4. if water return to the resevoir via the return hose and water is moving down to the engine, the the water pump is fine. 5; check if your thermostat is not faulty, this can be responsible for abnormal measurement of the water temperature. 6. you used the word FULL, I hope u did not filled the resevoir to the top with water, above the maximum level? in that case you can get high temperature on your gauge. Goodluck. I am a mechanic

Q:Here we have 3 sets of centrifugal pumps, as production water, 2 by 1, because the production is not allowed to stop, so we want to change for a pump, the original two pumps to stop, and three water pumps on the amount, and then stop the pump, but not on the third pumps the amount, do not know what the reason, the master to help, thank you very much..: The problem you are experiencing is stressThe above answer is only considered in the case of water absorptionJust imagine, two pumps are normal work, the same suction pipe, how can there be dissatisfaction with water or vacuum state?.According to my experience analysisYour system is three sets of parallel, lift and flow should be the same, if not the same, not in this discussion, the topic should be set up.Lift is the same, that is, in two or three units at the same time, the resulting system pressurization is the same, and water will increaseBut now your traffic is increasing at two units, but it will not increase at threeYou have selected pipeline system design, in the design of head flow under single condition is constant, if the increase in open water pump, the pressure is constant, increasing water content, according to the continuity equation Q = A X V, then the flow velocity in the tube will increase;But when the third pumps, 2Q becomes 3Q, normally velocity should be larger, but the Darcy formula shows that the velocity increases, extension resistance and local resistance will be increased, and the double square, so you can open third pumps for reasoning, when the resistance effect caused by the pipeline the increase of water flow in the pipeline can not be reused, the general formula of constant current, now the whole pipeline in turbulent stateThat is, third pumps to do the work in the water and pipe wall friction in the loss, and actually did not play a role in water supplyThe solution is to increase the flow rate by increasing the water supply pipeline

Q:How hard is putting in a water pump for my 5-series on a 1-10 scale ?and how do i put it in ? details please !? i dont have a chitlon for it . ive worked a lot on this car and i do know some things about it, but not very car savy. Thank you !!: What is easy for you may be hard for others, so I would not give the job any hardship rating. But the approximate job entails doing these...descriptions from viewpoint of person standing infront and looking towards the engine... a) remove fan blade with fan clutch by turning big nut clockwise (reverse thread) b) remove fan belt, then remove pulley attached to water pump c) remove radiator fan shroud if you can to have more space to work in d) put basin underneath engine to catch coolant and detach radiator hose connected to water pump e) remove 6 bolts holding water pump and remove pump f) clean surface of engine block to remove left over sealant/gasket g) install new pump and other removed parts in reverse order h) add coolant, bleed (using bleeder screws in thermostat housing and upper radiator hose), then top-off coolant to proper level marked on expansion tank near windshield. i) ran engine or roadtest, then recheck coolant level after overnight stay or when engine cools down.

Q:how do you change the water pump: When you change the timing belt you as well change the water pump as well. If you take it to anyone for timing belt change they will ask you if you want to change water pump because its convenient to change it out at that time. But if you dont have any knowledge how to work with the timing dont mess with it take it to someone who is knows what there doing because paying couple hundred dollars is better then paying thousands for engine rebuild or new engine.

Q:Can I install a recirculating hot water pump to a boiler? Someone just told me that I have a boiler not a water heater, but I have to wait for minutes for the shower to heat up: I merely positioned one in my homestead and did no longer use a pump. Mine is precisely gravity. I decrease into (with a tee setting up) the present warm water feed line at a factor which became farthest from the water heater and then deliver a clean line back to and teed into the drain on the very backside of the heater. I positioned a diverse off valve interior the line merely up from the hot tee close to the drain so it quite is adjusted or close off if mandatory. (Mine is open and has been considering I put in it) some structures could require a verify valve interior the hot return line on the horizontal area of the return line close to the water heater. I positioned one in in spite of the fact that it does no longer enable my equipment to artwork so I bumped off it and all is definitely now. All you're doing is making a loop so the nice and comfortable water is often circulating from the heater by way of the feed lines and while it cools slightly it returns by potential of gravity to the tank. this is the very ultimate subject I even have accomplished in some years. this gives you instantaneous warm water and no pumps, no electric use. you may learn this equipment on the internet. merely Google for it. solid success

Q:I am trying to replace a water pump on my ranger and i have all the bolts out. It seems to be stuck i think it is because of the oring around the outside of the pump andy ideas of how to free it?: Double check all the bolts are out then hit it with a dead blow hammer.

Q:I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.: If it's not a heater hose leaking your most likely right that the water pump is bad and loeaking coolant out of the weap hole,which is their so you know it's bad and needs replaced , i believe you should be able to have a new water pump labor for around $300, bucks.Don't put it off to long or you might blow the head gasket.You don't wont to do take.

Q:The role of water replenishing pump in circulating system: In the circulatory system, the replenishment pump acts as a means of circulating water to the heating system and to supplement the water lost by the circulatory system. Most heating systems use a constant pressure pump to ensure that users of any degree of the system can normally cycle hot water.The fire unit is normally there are many, including the general use of the unit: water supply pump, fire pump, filling, pressure relief valve, pressure sensor, one-way valve, fire tank must maintain the required pressure, when the pressure drop or leak, the pressure sensor will fire a signal to the irrigation control cabinet, and control the cabinet module will give a water pump signal, such as a water pump after receiving the signal will immediately start running, to the fire in the irrigation water, irrigation water until the fire to the set pressure, the fire control cabinet will give irrigation pressure sensor signal, let the water pump will automatically stop running. Water pump and pressure regulating pump the same principle, are used for replenishment pressure.

Q:What's the meaning of a single-stage pump?: Single stage impeller or multistage impellerGenerally speaking, multistage impeller is adopted in booster pumps

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