Auto Lighting System DC 12V 0.35A 1W Red CM-DAY-019

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Loading Port:: Shenzhen

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Supply Capability:: 20000 Pcs Per Month pc/month

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Auto Lighting System DC 12V 0.35A 1W/ LED 6000K~7000K 6*(7~8)LM Red CM-DAY-0191. Unique and beautiful design

2. Imported high power LED lighting source. attractive fashion style

3. Easy installation, anti-collision, OEM Fitment

4. Stable excellent Performance,waterproof, anti-aging, against antioptica, energy saving, anti-interference, heat-endurance

5. Easy installation, comes with install guidance.

Q: i would like to know if there is any way to have my high beams on and my low beams on at the same time to light up the road better at night: This is rather easy to do. On one set of headlights locate the connector to the high and low beam lights. With a volt meter or automotive test light connected the negative to body ground. Use the positive probe to determine which lead is positive for each lamp. Get a high current (about 25 Amps) 50V or so diode. Connect the banded side of the diode to the LOW BEAM positive wire. Connect the side opposite the band to the HIGH BEAM positive wire. A diode works as a one away valve for electrons. When the low beams are on the diode will block power from getting to the high beams. But when the high beams are on power will flow to the low beams. You only need to do this at one set of headlights as they are on a common circuit. If you can't find a 25 Amp or higher diode you can get a 25A 50V Full Wave Bridge Rectifier from Radio Shack; OOOPS! I mean The Shack. Connect one of the AC inputs (sometimes indicated by symbols) to the high beam circuit. It does not matter which AC input you use and you could use both if you wanted. Connect the + symbol of the bridge rectifier to the low beam positive circuit. A bridge rectifier is simply four diodes arranged in a pattern to turn AC into DC. You are just using it as a diode.

Q: I think there‘s something wrong with my fuel system but I want to be sure because if if not,I‘m out $100 for the test.There is a recall on the fuel system.Here‘s what it‘s doing: I drive a lot of h-way time.About 2-3 months ago I started hearing a loud humming noise coming from the engine.I‘m just driving along with cruise control on even and just out of the blue the engine will begin humming.It‘ll start soft,get louder and then stay at one pitch.When I take my foot off the gas,it dies down and then everything sounds normal,but once I apply the gas, it doesn‘t take but a few minutes and it comes back.I had new spark plugs installed around the time my engine light started staying on for longer periods because it does go off but it doesn‘t stay off for more than one trip,I‘ve always gotten 30mpg and still am.I can‘t afford to be out $100.Does anyone know if this is fuel system related, or not?I‘ve heard Ford‘s are known for bad fuel pumps, is this true?: THE VERY FIRST THING YOU DO IS FREE. Take it to an Advanced Auto Parts store and have them check the trouble code. They will do this for free and it takes less than 5 minutes. This will tell you if that the ECM has detected a problem and it will tell you what it is. If its something to do with your fuel system (i.e. lean mixture) than start with a new fuel filter. They are $7 and take less time to replace than checking the trouble code. The problem also could be an air intake leak.

Q: I have a 1991 Plymouth Sundance. The brakes don‘t work and emergency brake light stays on. what would be wrong and would it be fixable without a mechanic? Checked brake fluid and is full.: That model like others does not have an emergency brake. The brake you are referring to when put on auto-locks itself on because it is a parking brake. The light comes on to warn the driver that there is something not right in the braking system, and it is the first thought to check the parking brake to see if it is on. The parking brake is not the only reason for it to come on though. Low brake fluid is another reason for it to light up. Brake fluid is not consumed by the car though, and unless you are working on the brakes for some other reason you should not need to add fluid. So, you need to find the leak.

Q: I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire and just today, like two hours ago, my check engine light came on. I took a look at my fluids and all look ok, but the oil. It is QUITE low to the point to where I‘ll need to stop at the store to fill it up before attempting to drive home from work. It did looks pretty dirty as well. I also made sure my gas cap was quite tight as well. Could the low oil cause my light to come on like that? I‘m only 500 miles late for my oil change.I don‘t notice much in the difference in it‘s performance. It‘s always run a teeny bit rough as it has aged, but it‘s not doing anything out of the ordinary.: No low oil will not cause a check engine light. Your computer system detected a malfunction. Take it to a qualified auto technician and have it diagnosed. Do not listen to any backyard mechanic want a be that tells you to take it to a parts store for a code check. Parts salespeople are not qualified nor do they have the proper equipment or skill to diagnose your vehicle.

Q: My car engine light is on and I need to pass my smog test since it‘s already late. So I‘m wondering about whether to change my cata converter at the dealership or an auto shop. In terms of labor fee, time, cost of the part, which would be a better choice?: Good answers here - mine is too late to be best. I will echo the warning that your catalytic converter is not the top suspect. The youngest converter I have seen that was bad was 18 years old and was on a car with a carburetor. Get it diagnosed and fixed rather than throwing money at it. I have never seen a car with a P0420 code (catalyst efficiency below threshold) that needed a new catalytic converter. Sometimes putting a new converter on will make it enough better for the light to go away for a few months, then it comes back. Fix the cause, not the symptom.

Q: hi, i drive a 1999 ford ranger and for some reason my brakes have been really crappy lately. Starting at about the same time the snow came in late december my brakes started to feel gritty and made a noise with it. I thought because no lights were on in my truck it was just the snow but today when i was backing up my breaks felt like they went away all together. when it stopped i turned the truck of then on again and the breaks were back but the abs and break lights came on. i don‘t want to put myself in a bad situation so what could it be? thank you in advance.: I would suggest first checking the brake fluid level. The reason was a safety Ford has built into the system if the brake light was on also then this means the brake fluid level is low, and this in turn will also illuminate the ABS light and shut down the ABS system to prevent air from entering the ABS components and compromise the operation. If it take care of the problem, meaning both lights (ABS and Service brake) are off then have the service brake check out because the low fluid level mean brake pads and shoes worn out If the Service brake light is out and the ABS light still lit. Then go to Auto Zone, Advance Auto part store to have the code read for the ABS and edit your question and add the retrieved code for the ABS. A lot of the Ford truck (Including Ranger) in the same era has the same code C1230 or C1237 and it's very common code(s); the cause was the rear wheel speed sensor (C1237) located on the top of the rear end is defected or its wire was broken/ rubs through by the rear end housing (C1230). So go to your Auto part store and have the code(s) retrieve for the ABS and update the information if different code pulled other than C1230 or C1237 (C stands for: Chassis system code/ Defect) HTH

Q: At the suggestion of an Advanced Auto worked, I connected an orange wire (illumination wire) to an orange with white stripe wire. Now, every time I turn on my headlights the instrument panel doesn't light, my console lights do not dim as they usually do, and my backlights do not turn on. Basically, my headlights turn on, but everything else seem to be no different than when my headlights are turned off.The instrument panel and back lights are on the same fuse, but the fuse does not look blown. If it helps, my car is a 2001 Honda Accord LX. Any help would be greatly appreciated!: Do you think the worker at Advanced Auto knows about automobile electrical system and just likes to work at Advance instead of an auto electrical place. Disconnect what you connected and if you can get the aftermarket radio connected correctly, take it to an auto radio shop. BTW, colors on the wires of a car are mostly meaningless because each manufacturer uses different colors in their wiring.

Q: My check engine light has been on for about a month but I‘ve noticed When its cold that it blinks. Advanced auto said a while back that it was running lean (I believe) and they gave me fuel injector cleaner. What do yall think the problem is? I cant figure it out.thanks: If it's running lean that means it's not getting enough fuel in air/fuel mixture. They should have given you the actual OBD code reading so you could look it up yourself instead of sellig you a bottle of snake oil. Take the spark plugs out and you can visually confirm if car is running lean. Sometimes check engine light us caused simply by an old gas cap that's not sealing properly, especially in cold weather, or changing to a different octane fuel. Try those first before taking it to the shop.

Q: Hi, I have heard of the transmission problems that happen in the accords. In mine when I very start to move the car jerks and it seems like the tires are spinning but I‘m not sure if that is what‘s happening. The check engine light is on and the guy at advance auto parts says the EGR valve needs to be cleaned. Also the TCS (traction control system) light comes on occasionally. Keep in mind that my car does need new tires. Does this sound like a bad transmission problem or something minor?: This Site Might Help You. RE: 2001 Honda Accord Coupe EX (V6)? Hi, I have heard of the transmission problems that happen in the accords. In mine when I very start to move the car jerks and it seems like the tires are spinning but I'm not sure if that is what's happening. The check engine light is on and the guy at advance auto parts says the EGR valve.

Q: I am fairly new to dslr‘s. I have a 35mm f/1.8g lens on a d90. I would like to know what the best settings are for shooting people and moving objects in the dark or very dim lights. Any advice would be appreciated thanx!: Depending on the lights you have, If they run on Direct Cables (Red, Green, Ether) cables, then i would suggest you open the light mainframe (making sure car if off of course) and slowly screw or pull the bulb, if you find out its just a simple screw in and out operation, then common sense will guide you, however, if it has 2 or 3 extension wires lodged behind its bulb, then acquire the exact same bulb and slowly unscrew your old one from its cables and screw in the new one, keeping in the mind the correct circuit wires. Hope this helps. Stay safe and Good Luck!

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1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	YIWU,China
Year Established	2009
Annual Output Value
Main Markets	Mid East；Western Europe
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	SHANGHAI
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department	20 People
Language Spoken:	Chinese
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:	Above 2,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	About 5
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered；Design Service Offered
Product Price Range	Cheap