Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board
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Products Introduction:
Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.
Features
Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material
Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.
Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof
Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.
Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.
Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.
Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.
Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..
Product parameters
Item | Unit | Requirement | ||||
Medium density | High density | |||||
Density | g/cm3 | 1.2<D≤1.5 | 1.5<D≤2.0 | |||
Water absorption | % | ≤30 | ≤25 | |||
Non-combustibility | GB 8624-2006, grade A | |||||
wet expansion | % | ≤0.25 | ||||
Beding strength | dry | MPA | Strength grade class III | 20 | Strength grade class IV | 24 |
Saturation with water | 12 | 14 | ||||
Applications
Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards
- Q: Why different buildings sound a lot worse?
- Masonry wall of the board is usually the thickness of 60 ~ 120mm, surface density is generally less than 80kg / m2, with light, easy construction and so on. The slabs can be subdivided into two categories: one is solid or porous slabs made of inorganic cementitious material and aggregates, such as (reinforced) lightweight aggregate concrete slabs, autoclaved aerated concrete slabs , Steel wire mesh ceramic concrete slab, gypsum board, etc., this type of single-layer lightweight slab wall insulation volume is usually between 32 ~ 40dB; the other is by the dense layer of material and light core material in the production Prefabricated synthetic prefabricated sandwich panels, such as concrete rock wool or polystyrene sandwich panels, fiber cement board light sandwich panels and so on. The volume of the prefabricated sandwich panel is usually between 35 and 44 dB.
- Q: I can ollie on the grass fine.I can ollie high and easy.But when i do it on cement i ollie high but when i pop it my right foot that on the tail slips off.So why does it do that.Can you tell me what going wrong.Help me.My foot always comes off :(
- Slide front up and put all ur weight in back then transfer weight to the front
- Q: We have an older house (1957) that has 1 thick beams as a substrate floor. Currently, there is 1/2 plywood on top of the substrate floor. We are going to rip this up so that we can apply mortar to the substrate for leveling purposes. We would put the porcelain tile directly on top of the cement board.The guy at Home Depot (a former contractor) said we can just use 1/2 cement board directly on top of the substrate floor without a layer of plywood underneath. The substrate is old, but sturdy real-wood diagonal beams that lay on top of the joists. He said they are plenty strong and we don't really need to add a plywood subfloor if we use 1/2 thick cement board.What do you think? Do you think we could get away will laying down cement board on top of the substrate floor without plywood for added strength?Thanks!
- If the diagonal sub floor is solid ( along with the beams) and the beams are 16 oc. The floor boards must tight together as apposed to some that have gaps you can. But to level out the floor with mortar may or may not work. It will depend on how much or how deep you need the mortar. There are other methods you may have to pursue. Mortar or thin set hasn t got a high compression strength so it can only be done to certain depths. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: The outside of my business is painted cement board siding. I need to stick foam holiday decorations to it and I'm trying to find something that won't damage it or rip the paint off. I'm toying with the idea of double stick tape of some sort maybe. Any ideas?
- I use rubber cement for a lot of crafts but Im not sure how well it holds up under weather or how much weight it would hold on a vertical surface. It's sort of like that removeable glue that comes in the mail where you can pull credit cards off paper, or pull a letter apart that seems glued but it doesn't tear the paper. The command 3M stuff works great but too expensive (in my opinion) to just use for a month and then throw away.
- Q: Why is the peeling paint on the cement board?
- The house for a long time, the interior decoration is inevitable aging, the walls of latex paint off the old house is a common phenomenon of aging. Of course, if the original decoration on the quality and quantity, and in the course of the use of additional maintenance, in a certain period of time, the wall latex paint will not appear "peeling" phenomenon; and if the original renovation of the construction process is not fine or not Good, etc., latex paint may not be able to stay on the wall to the normal years.
- Q: Can someone tell me if they know or what they would think is stronger, six cement blocks stacked high or a board that is 6 feet long and 6 by 6?
- are the cement blocks stacked without mortar? are the cement blocks loaded in bending or compression? is the board loaded in bending or compression? What is the criterion of failure? cracking or breaking? Not a fair comparison with out some explanation.
- Q: Hi All,Basically what I am trying to say is that I have a wooden board which will be placed vertically on the floor and would be a decoration.I want to have a coating of cement of some sort on it and make some patterns on it.I like to know if it is possible to lay a thin coating layer of cement or even tile bond glue to a wooden board, lets say a timber board.basically anything that can give me the concrete/cement look as rough as that.. uld be any kind of cement or tiling glue or such...Thanks
- It might crack on you so why don't you just use some modeling clay and use a trowel and just play with it to look like cement
- Q: Its a baffle over an old fireplace where a gas heater has been installed. A cement based repair was hopeless, builders glue lasted a while but eventually busted when heater used on high for lengthy period. Crack getting bigger so need to get it fixed before a re-installation becomes necessary. Thanks.
- you could use a fire cement, that they use to seal coal and wood stoves,it comes already mixed,so you just spread it and level it,and it dries in no time at all,and it is designed for high temperatures
- Q: We have a home built in 1999 in the Gulf Coast area. On either side of the front entrance are flat cement board posts and above is a lintel. Last year I noticed the lintel was starting to have a gap between the brick and lintel itself as well as pulling away the top of one of the posts. I used heavy-duty exterior adhesive to try to reattach (used the ladder against it as pressure). I caulked and painted afterwards. Now, the separation is back, but much worse. I'm not even sure who to call to look at this. If I know why this happened, I could better figure out the next steps. Any ideas (I can find nothing through my research).
- it probably is a matter of trapped moisture and oxidation of the lentil.most residential construction in that area is done on which is known as a floating footer pad pour because of the hydrostatic tables and sand to alleviate subsidence,and if it is settling you would see other indicators such cracks,doors and windows not opening or sticking. your best bet is to remove it clean the lentil and prime it dry out completely and reinstall cement board after removing a 1/8 of a inch from each side.then use PL400 of a Liquid nail product and brace evenly then caulk with a 30 year pure silicone product for exterior application
- Q: Which is better adhesive or mourter for applying ceramic tile on cement board floor?
- The first and most common is Polymer Modified thinset. It's the least expensive, and the most common for a floor. MAKE SURE YOU GET POLYMER MODIFIED. It will say on the bag. The next is a premixed tile mastic. This is usually used for walls since it has more initial grab and helps keep the tiles from vertically sliding. There is nothing wrong with using premixed mastic as long as the tile is indoors. It will cost more however, and will also take longer to dry. If your doing a small area it might be easier since you don't have to mix it.
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Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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