API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 100 mm

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 100 mm System 1

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 100 mm

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 pc

Supply Capability:: 100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 300 mm

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria	ASME/ANSI/API customize
Pressure Rating	150 Class 300 Class 600 Class 900 Class 1500 Class 2500 Class customize
Valve Size	50 mm 65 mm 80 mm 100 mm 125 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm 350 mm 400 mm 450 mm 500 mm 600 mm 650 mm 700 mm 750 mm
Valve Size	2 inch 2.5 inch 3 inch 4 inch 5 inch 6 inch 8 inch 10 inch 12 inch 14 inch 16 inch 18 inch 20 inch 24 inch 26 inch 28 inch 30 inch customize
Actuator	Automatic customize
Connection	Butt Welding Flange RF Flange RTJ customize
1-Body Material	A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M customize
2-Seat ring	A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A105+13Cr Tool Steel+A105 customize
3-Disc	Tool Steel+A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 A216 WCB+13Cr customize
4-Arm	A351-CF8 A216 WCB A351-CF8M customize
5-Nut	A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize
6-Arm pin	A182-F6a A182-F316 A182-F304 customize
7-Yoke	A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A216 WCB customize
8-Bonnet nut	A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize
9-Bonnet bolt	A193-B8 A193-B8M A193-B7 customize
10-Bolt	A193-B7 A193-B8 A193-B8M customize
11-Gasket	graphite+304 graphite+316 customize
12-Bonnet	A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 customize
13-Eye bolt	A181 customize
Design Standard	API 6D BS 1868 customize
Connection Standard	API 605 ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.47A ASME B 16.47B ASME B 16.5 MSS SP-44 customize
Test Standard	API 598 API 6D customize
Face to Face	ASME B 16.10 customize
Pressure-temperature ratings	ASME B 16.34-2004 customize
Wall thickness dimension	API 600 BS 1868

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001、ISO 14001、API 6A、API 6D、TS CE、API607/6FA/BS6755.

Q: I dont want to buy an expensive snorkel, because I only want the valve. Its for a project for a club where I go to college.: Not okorder /

Q: I don't have one single water shutoff valve in my house that will shut anything off completely. It looks fairly easy to repack them, and I have the tools, and there are instructions all over the internet. The question I have for the experienced among you is what packing material do I use? I have heard graphite thread and teflon tape and even joint compound.Is one better than the other? Easier to use?Also, if there are any pitfalls I should know about before I undertake this, please advise.Thanks in advance!: Well if you talking about the water shutoff valves under sinks then you need to first shut off the water comming into the house at the main shutoff valve near the street , Or at a line comming into the house that connects up to the valve you are trying to fix or you may take a slight bath while trying to fix the valve that wont shutoff. Then Go to the shutoff valve you want to repair in that line where you shut the water off at and unsrew the handle at the base of the handle shaft using two wrenchs to hold both the nut on the shaft while using the other to hold the shutoff valve .this will prevent twisting the valve right off the connecting lines. Most of the time you will find it has a rubber gromet attached by a screw to the handle shaft.this is what you need to replace with a new rubber gromet which you can get in an assortment box at wal mart or homedepot or lowes for a low price. If you are using teflon thread or jointcompound you are repairing a Pipe joint leak where water is leaking externally of the pipe,not a shutoff valve leak .

Q: Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?: If the antisyphon valve is not leaking maybe you should focus attention on the main valve ( assuming it is a solenoid valve) to see if it closes completely. Another thing, if the irrigation zone is on an incline then the water in the system will drain to the lowest point. Sometimes it drains slowly causing the impression of a leaky feed valve.

Q: school starts tomorrow that means having band and i havent played it in 2 months (summer vacation) and i oiled the valves and the 1 and 2 valves are stuck the 1st valve comes up slowly when i push it down but on the 2nd valve it stays down how do i undo this???? thank you: Remove the valves 1 at a time. Remove the bottom cap to the valve. Swab out the valve chamber With a lightly oiled soft cloth. Put oil on the valve and replace being careful to not cross thread the caps. Don't leave out the spring. Do the next valve the same way.

Q: 1990 5.7l with a .470 lift cam , is there going to be a clearance issue between the valve guide and the valve. Is the rocker going to bottom out on the guides and bust my heads.. If so what should i do.: I don't think you know what you're asking. Clearance between the valve and the guide is necessary for lube and alignment of the valve. Not too much though or there becomes an oil burning issue. Are you asking if the cam is going to move so far as to make the rocker tip down and hit the top of the guide? If so, do the math.

Q: I was told my 1995 chevy needs an idle air control valve. I know my idle is getting rougher so I may need this. What is the function of this valve and what would happen if I don't get it? Will a new valve smooth my idle? Anyone know if this valve is hard to install or not?: It would be fairly easy to do in my car but I don't know about yours. The AICV lets air into the engine when the throttle is closed (idle). A new one should smooth out your idle and if you don't get one your idle may get worse to the point where your car won't run without you pressing on the gas.

Q: HI ever one i have a 1969 1500 beetle engine i have just but 1600 piston and barrows on it but when i but the rockers on i have no valve gap at all. ive wound out the adjusters all the way and i still can not get a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve. Please help cheers Adam: you MUST have the cylinder you are adjusting at TDC before adjusting the valves on that cylinder. take the dizzy cap off and rotate the engine clock-wise until the the rotor is pointing toward the #1 cylinder (the front at about 5 o'clock where the little notch in the case of the dizzy is) there is also a little V shaped notch in the crank pulley. this has to be aligned with the crack in the case at the top of the pulley. then take the valve cover off the right side of the motor and adjust the 2 valves toward the front of the engine (front is front of car) these are the intake and exhaust valves for the #1 cylinder. after you get them gaped to .006 snug the jam nut down. then rotate the crank EXACTLY 180 degrees counter-clockwise this will get you to TDC for #2. then adjust the back 2 valves on the right side of the motor (back is back of car) these are valves for #2 cylinder. then put the valve cover back on. rotate the engine another 180 degrees counter-clockwise, this will give you TDC for #3 which is the front left of the motor. adjust them and rotate the crank another and final 180 degrees counter-clockwise for #4 cylinder put the valve cover back on with new gaskets of course and you are done

Q: I had to replace the gaskets on my valve cover only to discover that the valve cover had developed a hole due to oxidation. I waited a week for a new valve cover to come in and left the engine exposed. Should I have any issues? I mean its covered but its still outside. Should I pour some oil on the exposed part of the engine?Its been already about a week.: So long as it is covered you will have no problems. The hood closed, maybe a rag over the hole... I wouldn't give it a second thought.

Q: my check engine light tells me that i need an egr valve, if i install one will that cut the light off????: Possibly, unless it's a Ford. A lot of the time on a Ford, it's the DPFE sensor that sets an egr code. Or do you mean ther is no egr valve on the car? Some GM and Chrysler engines were built with and without egr valves, (2.2 GM, 3.3 Chrysler). If someone replace the engine, you will need to get the parts required for installing an egr valve. In the case of the 2.2, it means a different cylinder head and exhaust manifold, the Chrysler 3.3, a different intake and rear exhaust manifold.

Q: When I put my check valve on my air line the air doesn't come through the air stone but when I take off the check valve it works. Also I switched the sides of the check valve and it didn't work. Click the link this is the air pump.: Or if you can, go to petsmart and get one there. Petco tends to sell sub-par items and livestock. If you have a tank that is bigger than your air pump was intended, then you will have problems. Say you bought a 10 gallon air pump for your 20 gallon tank. The strength of the pump is only able to push air down to counteract the average depth of a 10 gallon tank, against the pressure of only that much water. However if it were in a 20 gallon, it may not be able to counteract the water and the check valve (which shouldn't be causing much of a problem anyways). Make your line shorter and see if that helps. You don't need tons of extra airline tubing coiled around. Cut it down to the length you need, and try again. Remember, check valve should be OUTSIDE of the water, in the direction indicated on the valve (as to which side is in, which side is out), and it should be closer towards the pump itself. The check valve just prevents any water from dripping back into the pump.

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