• Black Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 100k Density System 1
  • Black Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 100k Density System 2
  • Black Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 100k Density System 3
Black Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 100k Density

Black Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 100k Density

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Fiberglass Ceiling

The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.

 

Installation method:

Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.

Tiles are easy to trim and install

Both inches and metric grids are available

 

Main Characteristic:

Non-combustible

No sagging,wrapping or delaminating

Green building material

Excellent sound absorption

 

Application:

Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.

Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.

Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.

 

Q: I have a large attic with sloped ceiling which are covered with rolls of fiberglass insulation. I use my attic for storage and am up there frequently, and for long periods of time. I would like ideas on what material could be used to cover the exposed insulation, so that I'm not breathing in the fiberglass.Cost and easy installation is a factor. I do not want to put up drywall or any type of regular ceiling, because if there's ever a leak, I want to be able to access it easily. Some sort of lightweight material that comes in a roll that I would be able to install with a staple gun would be great - but not plastic, because I don't want to worry about condensation and mold building up in the hot summertime. All ideas are welcome, and if you know the price of the material you're suggesting, please include it in your answer.Thanks everybody!
Are there other terms for sound board I could not find a reference for it.
Q: I wonder if there is fibreglass in it.It is easily scraped off, but creates dust from particles.I could remove it myself, but am wary of the dangers it might pose to lungs.There are no windows to the classroom. A student told me that it exacerbates his asthma.The schoolboard solution is to cover it up with a hanging tiledceiling.Is that reasonable?No money in education for removal, unless dangerous. Do I have any reason for concern?
I would research it with the health dept. because it could have hazardous chemicals in it. just think they used lead based paint until I think 1978?
Q: This is an old house and has wood and some type of dry cement-type material in between the wood slats. I stepped on the ceiling while doing an insulation job in the attic. The wood is fine but the dryed material cracked and separated from the wood slats in the bathroom. The damages area is around 18 inches by 12 inches, and some cracks in other areas of the ceiling. I do not want to sheetrock the whole bathroom if i can avaoid it (too many projects in this ol house). thanks!
Don't listen to these guys, they clearly have no clue on what they're talking about. I am a developer at Microsoft so I know a thing or two about computers.
Q: The house is a brick house, the kind of red brick house in the past, the wall looks quite thick, but still no noise at night neighbors next night to sleep, his family moved to hear the sound of things, often insomnia , And neighbors greeted, but inevitably there are voices, depressed dead, I sleep light, ask no sound to sleep, to death ... ... my family and his home are wooden floor, I do not know this sound Where did you wear the wall or the floor?
Install the sound board
Q: also do the electronic noise makers get rid of the litte critters?
Fiberglass insulation wo'nt discourage rats, in fact rodents love it to build their nests with it. As far as the electronic sirens go I've heard that they do work, but I'm not sure how good they actually do. I do know that you cant use them if you have hamsters or guenea pigs for pets. Hope this helped you out, good luck!
Q: I am spraypainting my basement ceiling black, I am also putting up drywall. I am not sure how to finish the space above the top of the wall, where I can see insulation between joists. Any thoughts are welcome.
If you're finishing the basement, and you're insulating it properly, then there's no need to have the insulation on the ceiling at all -- all it serves to do is provide sound dampening between the two floors. When you finish the walls and floors, make sure you provide a vapor barrier on the surfaces -- I can't emphasize this enough. Even a visually dry basement will allow moisture through the walls and floors -- this is the nature of concrete. If the moisture is outside your home, it wall pass inside. If you don't install a vapor barrier, then this moisture will build up under the carpet and behind the walls. Fiberglass, wood studs, wood sub floor, carpeting, and all sorts of other floor and wall products will be damaged by this moisture over time. The vapor barrier on the walls should not be waterproof paints or coatings -- I've seen those fail time and time again. And the floor should not use those plastic and chipboard products that are out there today -- those leave an overhang of chipboard to be exposed to the floor and rot. A good, penetrating concrete sealer can be used on the floor. A good choice for the walls is a plastic vapor barrier, which will also prevent water from passing through cracks, should they ever form on the walls. Spray foam insulation on the walls, if it's closed-cell, will also solve your problem.
Q: When I moved into my house the ceiling was cracked from the ceiling fan out to the walls in two directions. I don't want to put new wall board up and repairing the crack is not possible according to my Husband. What are some ways to cover the ceiling up?
If the ceiling is still shifting, it will crack again, no matter what you do. If not, then you might be able to fix it with joint compound and drywall tape. I don't know if it's the same, but we recently had a crack going from ceiling to floor. We had a drywall guy come out, who made the crack a little bigger, then remudded and retaped and retextured. (Actually, the problem was that it hadn't been taped the first time.)
Q: Again, none of the pink fiberglass lining actually touched me, so maybe since there was an air circulatory system on low, maybe some of the fiberglass dust from it is irritating me?
It's is not like catching the flu. You need to be directly exposed and exposed for a long time. If you were you'd know it by now. That little tickle or scratchiness could be from anything but is highly unlikely to be from the fiberglass. I can understand your concern because I've just gotten some on my skin and wouldn't want that in my lungs But relax you're fine. If you feel the need to go back and you want, wear a mask. Even those cheap paper surgical masks would be fine. God bless.
Q: Not sure how to spell something that sounds like "ah-spec-tice" please tell me where I can get into on aspectice.
I know this was posted awhile ago, but I thought this info I got from an expert may be helpful. If your house is built before 1978 it may have asbestos. To remove popcorn ceilings before this date the cheap way is to layer plastic everywhere in the area of the popcorn ceiling use a spray bottle or mister keeping it wet then scrape it off. When finished gather the plastic up keeping the popcorn ceiling remains encased in the plastic put it in a large garbage bag, seal up, and toss it. The key is to keep it wet when removing. For extra precaution wear safety glasses and mask. As long as it's wet it can't be inhaled and that's when it's dangerous. If you think it may be in the walls it's a good idea to get your home tested for the professionals to come in to clean it but it will cost you a lot of money.
Q: What are the active lime use?
First, the preparation of lime mortar and lime milk coating Lime mortar from lime paste and sand, water mixed together, can be used as the wall, the ceiling of the plaster. Lime milk is made from lime cream and is often used as a paint for interior and ceiling. Second, the preparation of lime and triad soil Lime: lime + clay. Triad: lime + clay + sand, stone or slag and other fillers. Can be widely used as the basis of the building, the road or the ground cushion. Third, the production of carbonized lime board The calcined lime board is a lightweight sheet made of ground lime, fibrous filler (such as glass fiber) or lightweight aggregate (such as slag), and then made by artificial carbonization. It is suitable for non-load bearing inner wall panel , Ceiling and so on. Fourth, the production of silicate products Grinding of lime or lime powder and sand or granulated blast furnace slag, slag, fly ash and other siliceous materials by ingredients, mixing, molding, and then pressure or high pressure steam curing, can be made of dense or porous silicate products The Such as lime sand bricks, fly ash bricks and blocks, aerated concrete blocks and so on. Fifth, the preparation of clinker-free cement Will have a certain activity of the material (such as granulated blast furnace slag, fly ash, coal gangue ash and other industrial waste), according to the appropriate proportion of lime with the common grinding, can be obtained with hydraulic cementing material, that is No clinker cement.

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