Ceiling Tiles Fiberglass - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Density 100k Good Sale
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m²/month
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The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.
Installation method:
Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.
Tiles are easy to trim and install
Both inches and metric grids are available
Main Characteristic:
Non-combustible
No sagging,wrapping or delaminating
Green building material
Excellent sound absorption
Application:
Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.
Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.
Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.
- Q: I have a large attic with sloped ceiling which are covered with rolls of fiberglass insulation. I use my attic for storage and am up there frequently, and for long periods of time. I would like ideas on what material could be used to cover the exposed insulation, so that I'm not breathing in the fiberglass.Cost and easy installation is a factor. I do not want to put up drywall or any type of regular ceiling, because if there's ever a leak, I want to be able to access it easily. Some sort of lightweight material that comes in a roll that I would be able to install with a staple gun would be great - but not plastic, because I don't want to worry about condensation and mold building up in the hot summertime. All ideas are welcome, and if you know the price of the material you're suggesting, please include it in your answer.Thanks everybody!
- Sounds like it's in the overhead, so sound board is cheap and easy to cut, and hang. It also adds a R-value of 2-3 and is fairly flame resistant.
- Q: Details: The house is a 3 story house. When showering on the 2nd or 3rd floor, the living room ceiling leaked. Not just 1-2 drops but we had to get a bucket and you can see the staining on the ceiling. This was 4-5 years ago and we stopped using these showers. No further leaking when NOT using the showers. The contractor opened the ceiling today near the staining and turned on the showers. He said that there was no leaking. What happened? Any suggestions? Thanks.
- Did the plumber stand in the shower and move around, jump up and down and attempt to distort the floor of the shower? Did he deflect the shower as would occur with someone actually standing in the shower, such that water would splash against the walls, back at the faucets, etc? Did he turn on both the hot and cold water? I would actually have someone use the shower, in particular whomever used the shower before when it leaked - the reason being that maybe something they were doing caused water to be diverted enough that it found a place to escape the shower stall and/or floor pan.
- Q: Faced or Unfaced fiberglass? How much might it help with sound reduction? Right now Unfaced R30 fiberglass is just under $10 a batt for aprox 30 sq feet. I'm not sure if that is too much R value for a ceiling or if you can even use unfaced batting If it isn't ok for a basement ceiling then I can get some R13 kraft faced for $40/ 163 sq feet.
- Well, the facing is a vapor barrier. If you need one, you need one - and it would go to the warm side in a normal application. But I'm getting the impression that you're more concerned about soundproofing than thermal insulation. If the basement isn't much cooler than the rest of the house, faced or unfaced won't matter. The thicker the insulation, the better the soundproofing.
- Q: I have a partially finished basement, hardwood floors above. What can I do soundproof the unfinished ceiling? I'm not planning on finishing, I want that area to serve as a hang out spot for the family and I don't want to worry about fiberglass dust.
- You need to insulate. then poly to seal! -- Or-- you can buy insulation batts already prewrapped in plastic. Or have it sprayed with foam, it`s expensive!--- YES-- fibreglass does make dust! Wear a mask!-- Once this is done, an inexpensive fabric draped across with a billowing effect looks good, and easy to DIY.
- Q: I had the roof replaced last summer, but havent had the energy to get up there and take down the ceiling tiles and the fiberglass insulation. I started removing it a section at a time a week ago, and wow! What a mess!. Gravel is falling down on my head and the insulation and tiles are dry now, but its still hard to pull them out. Should I be wearing a mask? Is there anything in the old dried out insulation and ceiling tiles that I should cover my nose? Its making a really big mess, so any suggestions will be helpful.
- No Brainer , YES,YES,YES. You might even put on ball cap.
- Q: We have an area in our ceiling that had water damage a few years ago and we repaired it ourselves for a quick fix. We never got around to actually getting it professionally repaired, but had never had any issues so it wasn't something we were worried about. About 3 days ago we noticed that there was a hole, about an inch long, I'm the crease of the ceiling where it meets the wall in the same place we had repaired. We don't know if maybe there is a mouse in the wall chewing a hole, if the house finally settled to the point where it cracked our repair job, or if there is another answer. It appears that the holes are only in the drywall tape and not in the drywall itself. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be going on our who we could call in to inspect this?
- I would suspect mold - esp. since moisture was a problem.
- Q: We had our carpets removed a while ago and installed laminate flooring instead.As a result, the house is not as warm as it used to be.Will it help if I add R13 insulation in the basement ceiling ? Will it keep the living room floor (which is just above the basement) warmer ?On the same manner, will adding another layer of insulation to the attic help in the winter and summer as well ?As for the mositure barrier paper, if I understand correctly, it should be facing up both cases, right ?
- Paper faces the conditioned space. Adding insulation always helps.
- Q: I'm remodeling a bathroom, and I need to know the best insulation for sound/moisture? Also should I use the regular drywall or the green one on the ceiling?
- i have a drop ceiling in my bathroom and use fiberglass plastic coated tiles that give some insulation, are waterproof on the plastic surface and can be (have done this several time) painted after 4/5 years if you so desire or just put new ones in front of the old ones and now the insulation value has doubled. you can keep doing that till they're 3 deep. you can buy them and the tracks that they fit in at home depot. a small bathroom would be less than $100.00 to do. you need to keep in mind when doing those ceilings, always find the MIDDLE of the two connecting walls then measure 12 inches on both sides from the middle. that's where you put the runners. NOT IN THE MIDDLE. now the room is divided equally from the two middles. if you don't then one side will be larger than the other. it may not make sense to you, but believe me it's true. there's not a room in my house that i don't have this system. if you ever get a water leak you just clean up the tile or replace it. use a 2x2 system not a 2 x 4. all the tile comes 2 x 4 (actually a little less) find the exact middle and then cut them in half. not a days work involved. putting up the track is more than 1/2 the job. it must be level all the way around and from side to side some of my ceilings i actually have rolled r-19 insulation on top of those tiles. remember armstrong esprite plastic coated tiles NOT CARDBOARD once the cardboard gets wet it needs to be replaced. i'm not sure but i believe i've had this system in the bathroom for about 20 years now, and other parts of the house for over 30 years, you can paint them or buy new ones and replace them. sometimes that's the wiser thing to do. hope that helps you. greenwall is always better for the bathroom.
- Q: need a ceiling ladder storage rack that can hold a 28 ft. fibreglass ladder?
- Are you asking me if I need a ladder rack? Or are you wondering what to use to hold a fiberglass ladder to the ceiling? Option 2) you could use 2 giant hooks that screw into the ceiling, and that should be sufficient. However: since those ladders are a bit heavy, why not do yourself a favor and store it horizontally on a couple hooks near the bottom of the wall instead? It's a lot more convenient that way, and safer for everyone concerned.
- Q: I am trying to find least expensive method to install support for spray-on closed cell foam insulation between ceiling joists in attic where there is no support beneath the rafters (only a drop ceiling). This is a large fire station that currently has fiberglass bat insulation between the rafters. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks, Bob
- remove ceiling put plastic on rafters spray foam it will adhere to the rafters
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Ceiling Tiles Fiberglass - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Density 100k Good Sale
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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