• Fiberglass Ceiling White Painted Well Quality System 1
  • Fiberglass Ceiling White Painted Well Quality System 2
  • Fiberglass Ceiling White Painted Well Quality System 3
Fiberglass Ceiling White Painted Well Quality

Fiberglass Ceiling White Painted Well Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The panels are udes widely in schools, offices, music studios, lecture theatres,
multi purpose halls, interview rooms, training areas and cinemas. They meet the
requirements of BB93 of Building Regulations for acoustics in school buildings and
are Class O fire rated hence meeting the Fire Regulations as well.

 

Product Advantages:

 

Saves headroom space because exceptional noise absorption effectiveness is achieved by low (30mm) material thickness.

Surfaces can be emulsion painted to any colour without significant loss in noise
absorption. Increase savings due to fast and easy installation.Lightweight and therefore are ideal for adhering to ceilings, which do not have a very high load bearing capabilities.

Meets BB93 standards for school acoustics as well as common areas in flats for Building
Regulations.

Reinforced edges for increased durability.

 

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 95% at  40c, no sagging, wrapping, or delaminating

Moisture rete:<1% (JC/T670-2005)

Enviromental impact: Tiles and packing are fully recyclable

Product Specifications:

Fiberglass Modern Decorative Home Ceiling

FAQ:

Question 1: Where is your factories?

Our factories in different areas of China, such as Shandong Province, Hebei Province, etc.

Question 2: May I get some samples of the product?

Yes, of course. If you need, we could sent you the small samples by the reliable delivery company such as DHL etc.

 

Images:

Q:I had the roof replaced last summer, but havent had the energy to get up there and take down the ceiling tiles and the fiberglass insulation. I started removing it a section at a time a week ago, and wow! What a mess!. Gravel is falling down on my head and the insulation and tiles are dry now, but its still hard to pull them out. Should I be wearing a mask? Is there anything in the old dried out insulation and ceiling tiles that I should cover my nose? Its making a really big mess, so any suggestions will be helpful.
You're going to have to wear your combat gear for this one :) A mask is a definite as there could be mold or mildew in the insulation as well as the fiberglass. You don't any of those things getting into your lungs. Also, wear protective eye wear, fiberglass in your eyes is very painful and can cause long term damage to your eyes. Thirdly, wear pants and a long sleeved shirt, preferably a turtle neck and work gloves. If fiber glass gets up your sleeves, on your hands or down your shirt neck, you will be itchy for days! To help with clean up, consider putting a tarp or large plastic sheet down under your work area. It will make clean up much, much easier!!
Q:Know please elaborate, concrete like, wrapped Nao sand, sticky yarn and the like, thank you.
Generally do not understand to go to check Encyclopedia (do not waste your points) made of molten glass with very fine fibers, insulation, heat resistance, corrosion resistance, high mechanical strength. Used as insulation materials and fiberglass raw materials.
Q:Hi Y/A, I have to repair some old ugly seams that have been patched badly, painted over twice and are now cracking as well, you know, where rooms are divided at the ceiling? What's the best way to clean those up without knocking them out and doing it &amp;lt;right&amp;gt; over? I have one, fairly long one..5 ft.
anytime you repair drywall you need tape i like fiberglass tape for repairs and durabond its harder and drys faster just make sure you get any lose off then patch it buy bedding the tape in the mud or drywall compond then let dry apply 2 more coats then sand prime and repaint use a bigger knife each coat to widen the coats and wipe it smooth not leaving a edge thats the sanding that will take place good luck
Q:Large area gypsum board light with no blockboard solid
It is only nails or screws fixed on the wooden frame or metal shelves above. Safe and secure.
Q:Upstairs noise how can we install sound insulation material can have effect?
In their own sound insulation ceiling, the use of keel overhead, with the use of sound-absorbing cotton, noise insulation or noise board and other sound insulation materials, reduce the noise downstairs noise down (for upstairs can not handle this method to do more)
Q:My basement is unfinished and gets VERY cold. The cieling in the basement is completely unfinished, i can see the beams and floor boards of the first floor. Can i assume this will cause the upstairs to get cold much faster and to lose alot of its heat?if so, what are my options for insulating the ceiling? i dont have alot of money, and its a rental home so the investment isnt worth it for me if it is a major expense
The US dept of energy says that you would get little benefit if any at all from insulating the ceiling in a basement. They recommend it only when the ceiling is for a crawl space.
Q:We just bought a house and our ceiling has the cottage cheese texture to it and it is cracked and broken in many placed so my husband wants to just take it off. I have told him that it may contain asbestos but he thinks he can do it on his own. So we are going to get it tested and if it does he just wants to remove it himself. My question is, is this a job anyone can do?
As sparkles said asbestos is a hazardous materials.. wow if hubby wants to do it himself best of british luck. To start with he is going to need complete head mask and breathing gear filters and full overalls ,, no part of body to be exposed, the material has to be dampered as its pulled out and completely wrapped in plastic and taped up and buried with minimum cover of 6ft. Wash all clothes and then burn 'em You think I joke!! I kid you not.. asbestous dust can linger and if breathed in collects on the lungs then BINGO ..Asbestosis CANCER WITH A BIGGG C. Take it from someone who has it &amp; i guarantee u dont want it.. So sit down with a glass of wine or beer , think about it and get the experts in you only have one life and the experts have the liscence to do it &amp; get rid of it. Take the old man for a second honeymoon and leave it to them..... that's the best advice you can get for free. ciao.. but the fine if you get caught in Aussie land would NOTcompensate for the experts...
Q:My house has not been renovated, according to the upstairs that he bought the best waterproof glue, do a number of waterproof treatment, try to see the water did not see a leak, told me to be assured! What is the possibility of future leakage? Thank you
Well, you should do more waterproof waterproof comparison
Q:What are the decorative materials?
Wallpaper, wall tiles, paint, paint, decorative panels, wall carpets, wood plywood, MDF, fire board wire water pipe cement and other hardware
Q:This is an old house and has wood and some type of dry cement-type material in between the wood slats. I stepped on the ceiling while doing an insulation job in the attic. The wood is fine but the dryed material cracked and separated from the wood slats in the bathroom. The damages area is around 18 inches by 12 inches, and some cracks in other areas of the ceiling. I do not want to sheetrock the whole bathroom if i can avaoid it (too many projects in this ol house). thanks!
It sounds like you're describing old horsehair plaster, &amp; fixing it's not that big of a deal, there are just a few steps involved. Basically what you need to do is to round out &amp; stabilize your hole so that it can either be re-plastered or mostly patched w/drywall &amp; then finished w/joint compound. The first step is re-attaching the plaster to the lathing (those wooden slats) &amp; to do that you need these little plastic/metal washers that you can find at a good hardware/builder supply store &amp; these are attached to drywall screws which then get screwed into the lathing a few inches away from the damage until you've got a flush surface again to work with. I'd love to tell you how many you need/etc., but it's just one of those things where you need to be there..... Anyways, once you've got a solid hole across this somewhat level surface take a beat up blade (I like using a 5 in 1) &amp; key the damaged edges which means about a 45 degree angle so that you've got more patching material towards the lathes. It gives a more secure bond this way. Then you either screw in a piece of drywall of the appropriate thickness into the hole &amp; patch &amp; tape from there, or you can learn about plastering, but it doesn't sound like you want to go that route from the question. A quarter to half inch gap is fine for the patching between, &amp; I've even used plaster of paris for the patching when I didn't want to wait for mud to dry, but that involves a learning curve to perfect, &amp; that's your warning on that route. As far as the cracks go, take your hand &amp; see if you can move the ceiling, &amp; if you can then it's back to the screws &amp; washers for the area around the cracks &amp; that part is actually fun if necessary as you can watch a go back to being level. Then bust out the cracks a bit &amp; patch them. A bit of fiberglass tape over the washers before you mud them helps them disappear. Have fun!

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