Ceiling Tiles 2x4 Fiberglass Ceiling Materials
- Ref Price:
-
$7.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- SHANGHAI, CHINA
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 3500 M2 per Week m²/month
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Standard Size: 595mm*595mm, 605mm*605mm…
Standard Thickness: 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50mm…
Edge Detail: Square, Tegular, Concealed
Textures: White Painted, Mix Acoustic, White Spray, Black Spray
Technical Data of Fiberglass Ceiling:
Material: High density dry felt resin bonded fiberglass wool
Facing: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue
Fire-resistant: Class A, non-combustible according to BS476 Part 6&7 tested overseas
Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 90% at 40℃
Environmental: Tiles and packing materials are fully recyclable
Main Characteristic of Fiberglass Ceiling:
Excellent sound absorption
No sagging, wrapping or delaminating
Fire-resistant
Moisture resistant
Excellent light reflectance
Cleanable
Environmentally friendly
Application Areas of Fiberglass Ceiling:
Offices, schools, libraries, hotels, cinemas, theaters, etc., where have special request for sound aborption
- Q: I had a stucco like substance on my bathroom ceiling that was peeling and falling off. I scraped it all off and found a layer of pink paint beneath the stucco that also was peeling in many spots. Underneat the paint is plaster that has some spots. I have an exhaust ceiling fan in the bathroom but don't think it works terribly well. I am considering scraping the remaining paint off then filling in uneven spots and corners with spackling compound then painting over the whole thing again but I am concerned that the spackle will not adhere well in the spotted areas. Does anyone have any recommendations?
- You can purchase mold killing paint in a number of hardware stores. Go ahead and scrape off the remaining paint, then paint it with the mold killing primer (Kilz), then paint normally. As for the patching: Spray the affected areas with a mildewicide, and then spackle. Paint with mold killing primer, and paint as normal. You might think about replacing the fan as well.
- Q: My house has not been renovated, according to the upstairs that he bought the best waterproof glue, do a number of waterproof treatment, try to see the water did not see a leak, told me to be assured! What is the possibility of future leakage? Thank you
- No matter he did not do waterproof, first told him to plug the hole, and looked uncomfortable. It is recommended to plug Wang Wang waterproofing agent mix a little sand, the effect is particularly good. Followed by good water, must be sure to personally do not leak, the best with the property management to participate in the acceptance, because the problem, property management and even the relationship. Tell the truth to see that hole, I doubt they can do waterproof.
- Q: Ask the rectangular aisle how to design, who knows?
- In general, the height of the ceiling is now 2.8 meters or less, if it is small units, then the space will appear more depressed. Designer designer suggested that if the ceiling design is not so stressed with the downlight, you can switch to ceiling or semi-ceiling chandelier, so that both can have a small living room space visual focus, but also to maintain the height of the ceiling. If you are worried about the light source is not enough, you can do some in the surrounding indirect lighting of the board, so that the level of height
- Q: My neighbor told me that there is no attic space in the main bedroom. It is a 2 story house, but the master bedroom is the ONLY room that is significantly hotter than the other 2 rooms. Is it possible to put some sort of insulation over the existing ceiling and then drywall over it? Or....??????
- Well, if you are willing to re-drywall anyway, why not tear down your existing ceiling and insulate it with fiberglass batts or blown cellulose? Then, you won't have two ceilings. When I moved into my house, I always hated how people just layered things like floors and just put the new over the old. Plus, I don't know how much ceiling space you have, but you would lose about 4 inches from redrywalling a second ceiling.
- Q: Bought a house about a year ago, and the basement ceiling is stuffed with fiberglass insulation. It's warm in the basement, especially the room where the furnace is, but we hardly ever use it.I'm wondering if all that insulation is trapping the heat the furnace gives off while it runs, preventing it from rising upstairs? Would it be worth removing it myself or just let it all stay in the ceiling? If you recommend removal what's the best way to dispose of it?Thanks!
- If it isn't raining don't repair the roof. It would be next to useless to remove the F.G. Newer heating systems don't give off the residual heat that the older models did in the past. So if you removed it you wouldn't warm the floors to any appreciable degree. Relax.
- Q: How to do a good job of tile exhibition hall design
- Do not think too complicated display design. The focus is on the display of objects. The Look at the scale to set. Are generally based on analog space to locate. A bathroom What about a kitchen. The ceiling is a regional ceiling, usually only the display area. Basic to LOFT style. The According to the style of your tiles to set the inside style, as the layout of a reasonable problem is divided into style partition (European, modern and the like). The Tile type partition (floor tiles, wall tiles). Conditional words to do some platform. Brick parquet, and other commonly used decorative techniques to improve the visual impact, the majority of light-emitting microphone lights. The Key places can use some spotlights or grille lights. University indoor subjects have display design. The Indoor performance techniques. photography. Plane composition. color composition. Three-dimensional composition, and the like. The best landlord or more to go to the Nobel, Smeek such a big shop. The Definitely helpful to you
- Q: We had our carpets removed a while ago and installed laminate flooring instead.As a result, the house is not as warm as it used to be.Will it help if I add R13 insulation in the basement ceiling ? Will it keep the living room floor (which is just above the basement) warmer ?On the same manner, will adding another layer of insulation to the attic help in the winter and summer as well ?As for the mositure barrier paper, if I understand correctly, it should be facing up both cases, right ?
- Every home and layout is different so it's difficult to give the right answer. Adding insulation to the basement ceiling would help out and would not hurt anything but why is it so much colder in the basement? Yes basements always appear to be cooler but you might want to look into that. Typically in basements very cheap single pane windows are installed, box sills around the primeter should also have insulation in them. For your attic; at a quick glance if you can see the ceiling joists on the floor of the attic you need more insulation. Common fiberglass batts you would find are R-9 up to possibly R-19 for a single layer, you should have at least and R-28, if not add additional. In northern regions new construction they are putting in R-42. If you have a loose fill insulation the rule of the thumb is R-3 per inch of product, just a guideline if manufacture spec's are not available. Vapor barrier always goes towards the warm side; in the attic the barrier would go down or closest to the drywall on the ceiling below. Basement probably isn't has picky but technically would go up against the underside of the floor.
- Q: You would have chosen to join the huts?
- Wooden houses in Europe and the United States is very popular, especially in North America, wood structure building system since 1830 has dominated. Each year, more than 90% of the new 1.5 million to 2 million houses in North America use wooden structural systems. Which lasted for centuries, the wooden structure of the building with its a series of superior characteristics, so that residents living in North America enjoy the world's highest standards of housing.
- Q: We have removed our rough sawn cedar from our cathedral ceiling in our 80's home. We found fiberglass insulation and 2x6 joists (the roof is directly above). The first electrician came out before we removed the ceiling and assumed there was no insulation and said we needed to get spray insulation because of the condensation can lights can cause. The other electrician we called out came after we removed the ceiling and did not say anything about condensation. Neither said anything about ice dams. I am seeing all this pretty scary stuff when doing my research, and am thinking we shouldn't put in recessed lighting now! We live in Wyoming where the climate can be pretty cold, but is usually very dry.So, if we use LED lamps and IC airtight housings, will the heat transfer really be bad enough to cause condensation and/or ice dams? Would it help to put some foam board between the shallow housings and the roofing substrate (if it fits)? We are only planning on putting up 6 6" lights in a 10x20 room...
- I highly recommend you beef up the structure of your ceiling rafters and that will solve multiple issues I see in this project. That will give you plenty of clearance for lighting fixtures and it will also allow for more insulation along with proper ventilation. If it were my ceiling I would sister a minimum of 2 x 10 lumber to the sides of the existing 2 x 6 rafters you now have. Those 2 x 6 rafters are way under size for heavy snow loads and the current space in no way allows for enough insulation. I have done this exact kind of thing in my home when I used excess attic space to build a large multipurpose room. I nailed and used construction adhesive to attach or sister beefy 2 x 10's to the sides of each of my existing roof rafters. Then I could properly insulate the ceiling of the new room along with making the structure much stronger. The extra thickness of the space won't be noticeable at all when the ceiling is put back in but you'll have a much safer and sturdier roof and ceiling. If you're doing this project with a building permit then what I've described above will be required by the building inspector for sure. You will have to meet the building code for the R value of the insulation etc etc. But, even if you're doing this without involving the building dept, it will be in your best interest to beef up the lumber and add the additional insulation anyway. It will be a very small additional cost to pay considering the savings you'll recoup in energy bill not to mention the overall safety factor. Do a search on sistering roof rafters and you can find a good bit of info online if what I've said doesn't make sense to you. If I can give you additional advice or help you find more info online please get in touch. Good luck and I hope this helps!
- Q: But it's fiberglass and needs to be flexible for when it moves. I think actual mirrors will crack and be too heavy. What do I use for the mirrored effect?
- You can buy mirror plexiglass. Maybe that will work
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Ceiling Tiles 2x4 Fiberglass Ceiling Materials
- Ref Price:
-
$7.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- SHANGHAI, CHINA
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 3500 M2 per Week m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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