• Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor System 1
  • Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor System 2
  • Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor System 3
  • Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor System 4
  • Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor System 5
Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor

Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor

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Loading Port:
Nanjing
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m²
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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1、Material properties

Maple is divided into two kinds of hard and soft maple maple, is a temperate wood, wood is gray brown to gray and scarlet, the ring is not obvious, pipe hole and the small number of uniform distribution. Staggered maple wood, kidney structure is fine and uniform, soft and hard, fine pattern. Easy to process, the surface is not smooth, dry, easy to warp. Good performance, strong bonding strength. Mainly used for sheet metal plate.

2、Product Characteristic

1、 maple wood in the staggered, kidney structure is fine and uniform, lightweight and relatively hard, excellent pattern, color coordination, no scar knot, is a high-grade wood decoration. The world's best Canadian maple maple, also has the characteristics of warm in winter and cool in summer.

2、 Maple is a wonderful natural landscape, is the construction of decorative wood. It is easy to process, the surface is not smooth, dry, easy to warp. Good performance, strong bonding strength. Grip strength, strong, firm, durable, beautiful and high-grade.

White maple is a maple, now facing a lot of on floors and furniture, give people a fresh, simple feeling. More suitable for young people's aesthetic taste

3、Parameter

Material: Maple

Style: Modern

Standard: National Standards

Scope of application: Corridor

Pattern: Wood

Special purpose: wear resistant

Plate finish: good

Surface shape: hand grasp pattern

Residual depression: no

Formaldehyde release rate: E0

Resistance: good

Wear layer thickness: 3cm

Abrasion resistance: good

Fading (stage): 1

Floor thickness: 18mm

Color: Red

Specifications: 910*122*18

4、Reference pictures


Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor

Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor

Yongsen Red Maple Antique Solid Wood Floor







 

 

 

Q: We have a mess here =(. Got home to find our water heater broke. The waterheater is in between 2 rooms, one our office with engineered wood cherry floorsthey click together and have a pad underneath, and brand new carpeting in the otherroom that smells already is is soaked near the doorway.This is what we've done so far. Pulled the wood floors out. Most look WET, some are just kindawet.. were going to pull the padding out and replace it with new padding but is there anything we can do to save the wood, blowdry, fan??? Something help please.Carpet?
The vinyl floor is probable glued right down to a million/4 inch underlayment (luan). you may pull all of it up and positioned down new underlayment in a pair of hours. Or, while you're no longer frightened related to the peak of the hot floor, you may positioned the hot underlayment on appropriate of the vinyl floor. i've got been a chippie for 18 years and formerly that I laid floor for 2 years. i've got in no way considered all people glue any sort of floor to an previous vinyl floor. i do no longer think of it may be a competent thought. in case you do prefer to offer it a attempt, it incredibly is advisable to bypass over the vinyl with a disc sander to help the glue bond extra effectual.
Q: We have tried a floor scraper - did not do the job. We have tried an air chisel - did not do the job. The only sure way so far is a flat end crowbar and a sledge hammer and a lot of sweat.
Set a circular saw to the thickness of the wood and make many cuts across the grain every foot or so.That way you are removing small pieces which are easier than longer planks. Then its called sweat blood and tears unfortunately. A super bar and a good 20 oz hammer will do. The other way which it a lot easier but more costly is a panther or other heavy electric floor scraper. It still is easier on the machine also to again cut across the grain every foot or so. The smaller you make the pieces the easier they come up. Good Luck
Q: HowHow large is the gap between the floor and the wall? large is the gap between the floor and the wall?
Wood will be expansion and contraction (the correct argument is wet expansion and dry shrinkage), so to keep the expansion joint, and to leave large enough to be useful. Expansion joints are two, one is between the floor and wall, about 8-12mm, depending on the size of the plate used.
Q: We are about to finish the floors in our basement and the guy at home depot suggested engineered wood floors instead of pergo type floors. They r real wood, do you know if this is a good product, and any negative things about it. Also the guy said it could be refinished, but it looked too thin for that to me.
To add to what the others have already explained, yes, engineered floors are ideal to put in basements. The layers that comprise it's core doesn't actually help to expel the floor's moisture content BUT it does help the floor to adjust to changing climates and varying levels of humidity. The engineered construction fights against the adverse reaction of contraction and expansion and lessens the chances of warping, buckling, cupping, etc. With regards to your concern that it may be too thin to be refinished, you probably want to clarify with the Home Depot guy if it's re-sandable AND refinishable or just the latter. Find out what the actual wear layer of the floor is. If it is less than 2mm, chances are you can only refinish it. 2mm and thicker is still re-sandable at least once, and sand lightly only. You can refinish without sanding the finish off by using the appropriate chemical/solvent. Lowe's has a table of different liquids you can use to chemically sand the finish off so you can apply a fresh new coat:
Q: Solid wood flooring and laminate flooring which is better
Disadvantages of composite flooring:Environmental protection is poor: the unique structure of solid wood flooring is an important reason for its outstanding performance. At the same time, this structure also makes it in the production process can be avoided to use a lot of glue, wood composite floor of each layer is bonded with glue. At present, the market is divided into 3 layers of solid wood floors with multi layer (layer or layer of 7). The more layers, the greater the amount of glue used. Although each solid wood flooring manufacturers have claimed that their products are more environmentally friendly, but do not know much about the price of the decoration, the choice of well-known brands of products more secure.
Q: We are building a new home and are having engineered wood floors 1/2 thick and 5 wide installed in our living room and hallways, no wet areas. Our floor installer says he does not usually put a moisture under the wood floors and it has always worked out fine. I have read conflicting information regarding having the moisture barrier and not having it. I would appreciate any information or opinions.
Although, being installed in a dry area, you'll have duct work and sweaty pipes throughout your walls and floors. A moisture barrier should always be used. 1 roll of rosin paper $10.00 covers 500 s.f. The contractor doesn't want to spend the money, you're paying to much for his service.
Q: A friend said that the solid wood floor is better, why
How to use the simple way to test the level of formaldehyde?Open the moisture-proof layer, exposing the substrate, nose smell pungent taste, must be excessive formaldehyde content.Formaldehyde is a colorless irritating substances soluble, exceeding the national standard 1.5mg/L light, throat discomfort, chest tightness, shortness of breath, can cause respiratory tract disease or emphysema, pregnancy syndrome, nerve, lung immune by poison, especially for infants and the elderly more serious injuries.
Q: floating floor I've heard of is always in reference to laminate. Why couldn't a person float an engineered wood floor?
Ok no.1 Never glue carpet to hardwood floors. The floors will be destroyed. You only have two solutions. A- WHich I feel is the best in your circumstance is to get a large area rug or carpet to fit the room and buy non skid area rug pad. It can be bought at home depot . It is a rubber mesh that when layed under your carpet or rug hold sit in place and also protects the floor from becoming scratched with the backing of some carpets. B- Get Tackstrip which home depot also carries and nail it around the perimeter of the room with the pins or nails angled toward the walls and rent a power stretcher to attach it to the tackstrip. After removal of the carpet you will have to fill in holes that the tackstrip left with matching wood putty to keep your deposit in tact. I would go with option a if it were me. Good Luck on your decision.
Q: I have heard that rubber backed throw rugs are bad for wood floors. And I am purchasing some rugs for my new home, which has wood floors.
It isn't scratching you need to be afraid of, with rubberized backing. It is the rubber breaking down and either crumbling, or, if anything greasy got on it, it would turn to a sticky, gluey mess. Look for rugs made of natural fibers, either cotton, wool, or silk. They wear well, and won't damage your nice hardwood floors. We have wool rugs on hardwood.

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