• Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 1
  • Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 2
  • Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 3
  • Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 4
  • Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 5
  • Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor System 6
Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor

Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor

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Loading Port:
Nanjing
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m²
Supply Capability:
2000 m²/month

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1、Material properties

Heartwood, sapwood yellowish white to gray; heartwood red brown to pale brown, with dark stripes. Growth wheel slightly obvious. The hole of the wood is of medium size, the size of the hole, the hole of the single hole and the short diameter column, and the content of the material. Axial parenchyma significantly, a ring tubular, wing, a wing and the wheel circle shape, thin wood ray, in great abundance; size of speckle is not obvious, the chord surface ripple No. Wood has luster, day special smell and taste; texture staggered, the structure is slightly thick, durable, strong. Hard material weight, high strength. The characteristics of the wood were very obvious in the yellow deposits in the tube, and the iron and water were easily to change.

Air dry density: 0.80-0.94g/cm3. Some rough and heavy structure and hard wood, beautiful and stable, with excellent wear resistance, anti position.

2、Product Characteristic

1, good material

Merbau as relatively high-end solid wood flooring in rare species, is north of pavement is a common species, shiny wood, no special smell and taste, structure slightly thick, strong oil, moisture resistance, anti termite properties, corrosion resistance, durability strong, hard material weight and high strength.

2, performance stability

Indian wood flooring material is stable, very difficult to deformation, cracking, can be called the stability of the solid wood floor, in theory, can be used for geothermal.

3, color is good

Printed on the wood floor pattern of the wood, the tree pattern is clear and beautiful, very distinctive, bright colors, fine workmanship, in appearance is very good

3、Parameter

Material: Merbau Wood

Origin: Zhejiang

Style: Modern

Standard: ISO90001

Applicable scope: bedroom

Pattern: Wood

Special purpose: wear resistant

Plate finish: good

Surface shape: paint

Residual depression: no

Formaldehyde release rate: E1

Resistance: good

Wear layer thickness: 3mm

Fading (stage): 1

Floor thickness: 18mm

Color: Red

Specifications: 910*125*18

4、Reference pictures


Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor

Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor

Yongsen Super Grade Red Merbau Wood Floor




 

 

 

Q: I had a water leak in my bath whci had engineered wood installed. I want to now apply ceramic tile over the engineered wood if possible? The wood is glued to the concrete floor.
It is not a good ideat to install ceramic over an engineered floor. Wood is not stable enough for ceramic, as minor movement will cause the ceramic to crack. The wood must be removed, and if the floor underneath is concrete you will be fine. If it is a wood subfloor, a concrete impregnated plywood must be installed first. (Such as Hardi-backer or Wonderboard) I am in the business, and if a customer insisted on installing ceramic on top of an engineered floor, as much as I like selling this stuff, I would turn the job down.
Q: How to choose solid wood flooring?
See moisture contentSelect solid wood flooring, note that moisture content can not be too high, generally less than 13%.
Q: which brand engineered wood floor is best?
Mirage engineered floors has won a survey by retailers for quality for the fourth time. They are a quality engineered product that has a wear layer that is equal to 3/4 solid wood and can be sanded 3-5 times during its life. Bruce is another name that is highly recommended. Check out consumer reports.org for their recommendation. It's a good resource you can look at it usually at local libraries or pay online. Hope this helps.
Q: We bought a house with engineered oak hardwood floors that look to be 3mm thick. We're trying to determine if we can refinish them or if we just need to replace them, but we're not sure how to tell if they have am aluminum oxide finish. Is there a way to tell without knowing the manufacturer or any other related info?
Not so much, no. There's no test that you can do at home that can tell you if these engineered floors have an aluminum oxide finish or another type of modern finish. But unfortunately, chances are it's AO. Most engineered floors, especially those that aren't super expensive (so floors bought through THD and etc.) are AO.
Q: What is the length of the skirting line of wooden floor
The color and texture of skirting board and floor, furniture mainly through the comparison between the principle of harmony, the overall coordination, as long as you, will generally choose similar color. In addition, but also pay attention to the base material, the surface material should also be consistent with the ground or similar color.
Q: What are the major differences between solid hardwood flooring & engineered hardwood flooring? Also, what is the best to use in high traffic areas and non-high traffic areas; like the living room or dinning room?
Solid hardwood is a better product. Laminate/engineered flooring was a product devised as a way to get a hardwood look at about 50% of the cost. Hardwood is thicker. The product used to be solid oak 3/4 thick (either unfinished or prefinished). It evolved to be applied to concrete floors which comes at 3/8thick. It has since been made from plywood with a veneer finish. This came about do to solid wood cupping up on the ends (where the tongue and groove meet). Now solid 3/4 harwood is seldom used. Most hardwood is a veneer finish at 3/8 to 5/8 and is installed with a locking system (the same as the engineered flooring) or by an adhesive (hardwood glue). the thicker the more expensive, and typically better. The solid wood look is a much better look then laminate and is one of the best features for resale of a home. The surface finish is a little less durable then the laminate flooring. If you damage hardwood and need to replace pieces, hardwood can be replaced fairly easily, whereas laminate is a nightmare (if you replace it properly). You are removing all the existing until you get to the damaged piece and then relaying it. As far as traffic areas, I suggest this, If you have either by an exterior door place a small throw rug down. Either product will not last if it is exposed to moisture/water on the surface and getting into the seams/joints. I also suggest not putting it in what are called wet areas, kitchen, bathrooms because of that. Laminate cleans and maintains easier. Laminate will wear better if you have small children, and again it is about 1/2 the cost. There is no real answer as to what is better. It depends on your situation. Do you want the luxurious look of hardwood or the harwood look at a cheaper price. Your call. I hope this helps you out, and good luck
Q: installed underlayment and the wood flooring is bamboo with click and lock type of install rather than glued or nailed install
Probably improperly installed. Did you read all of the instructions before the install?
Q: I plan to install engineered hardwood floors over a concrete slab. Should I glue it down or float it? Any other pointers for this job?
Float it for sure, this allows for any expansion or contraction during the seasons. Just to be on the safe side I would put a coat of concrete sealer/water barrier on the floor. Get the best underlay pad the you can get, it does make a huge difference. The biggest thing is to let the flooring sit in the rooms for a day at least to let them weather for your room and not the temp of the wear house. It doesn't sound like a big thing but it is. Have fun doing it.
Q: Our house is a 1966 sub floor fondation, and there is original oak hardwood through out most of the house. So far, we have refinished the floors in two rooms just by sanding, conditioning and finishing with a clear coat--no stain and they're beautiful! Unfortunately, a previous owner did the unthinkable and installed engineered hardwood over the real hardwood in the front entry and two hallways. The engineered wood is ugly in comparison, and we can tell that the beautiful oak is underneath the glued down engineered flooring. Is there any chance the real wood could be salvaged if the engineered is removed, and if so, what would be the best and most economical way?
Have you called your local hardware store? They might know. Someone once told me that to remove a formica counter top from the wood (it's also glued down) to use a fire extinguisher on it. You have to use the right one, the one that gets real cold, and it just pops up. I don't know if it works or not, but if it does I wonder if it would work for your floor. It could be that the former owners put the engineered stuff down because the original wood was really worn and damaged. Just some thoughts. Maybe someone else can expand on my thoughts or has a better solution.
Q: Want to decorate the home, I heard that the solid wood floor care convenience, composite floor to play regular wax like. But it is said that the solid wood floor for a long time there will be a gap, and step up will quack creak. Want to know this is not the case, by the way, I recommend what to buy the floor of the brand, thank you ~ ~ ~
So I suggest you go to the formal decoration market, get the floor, see is not the real wood. Now the level of fraud is very high, however, a simple look from the side, you can see it. Or secretly with a nail with a wood, if it is false, on the leakage level.Then, must hear a smell of the floor, is not very kind of smoked flavor, and the eyes will have a feeling of want astringent tears. If not, it proved that the floor paint is environmentally friendly.Any manufacturer of wood products, have environmental protection and ordinary type, so the same thing, expensive

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