• HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality System 1
  • HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality System 2
HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality

HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
50000 m²/month

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Specification

Formaldehyde:
E2,E0,E1
Material:
Sandwich Panel,Wood
Feature:
Fireproof,Soundproof,Heat Insulation,Dust-Proof
Color:
customized color,Black,White,Red,Green,Blue,Wood Grain
Position:
Interior,Exterior
Certification:
MSDS,CE,ISO
Customized:
Customized,Non-Customized,according to request

HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality


Products Specification

We can supply HDF laminated flooring

With thickness 6mm/7mm/8mm/11mm/12mm

With length and width 808*148mm/810*150mm/1215*195mm/1218*198mm/1219*199mm,

With wear resistance from AC1-AC5 

With square edge, V-groove, and mouled U-groove

With small/middle embossed surface,silk surface,crystal surface,piano painted surface,synchronized surface and hand scraped surface.


Technology Specification

Performance

Unit

Thickness(mm)

6/7/8/11/12

Density

Kg/m3≥

800-900kgs/cbm

Internal bond

Mpa≥

1.4

Internal 

density tolerance

±%

4.0

Bending strength

Mpa≥

40

Modules    

of elasticity

Mpa≥

3500

Thickness swelling

%≤

8.0

Moisture content

%

4.0-7.5

Surface bond

Mpa≥

1.2

Formaldehyde release


E0≤0.5mg/L,E1≤9mg/100g,E2≤20mg/100g

Test Standard


GB/T17657-1999    JIS      A1460

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1.Free samples in each container

2.Free new design products in each container

3.Make samples according to partner’s request 

4.Make selling plan in your market together

5.Visit your company when there is a chance 

 

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HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality

HDF Laminated Wooden Floor 8mm High Quality


Q: Decoration with solid wood flooring or composite floor good?
The standard of solid wood flooring is GB/T15306-2001. Since the implementation of the standard since May 1, 2002, the original 94 standard was replaced. The new national standard has made the important revision and the supplement to the old national standard. The main content is to modify some of the size and content of the supplement, the application of the specification of the tree species and the requirements of the paint plate. At the same time, the impact toughness and abrasion resistance of the wood are eliminated.
Q: Anyone done it? How did it work out and how was the glue (Odor, how long did it linger and how toxic was it)? I appreciate your answers. Thanks.
If its an engineered wood not or the lock( floating system) then yes you can glue it to the slab since its the only way. If it is a floating floor then you absolutely cannot glue it down.. It not hard work but you will have a sore arm since the glue used is very thick and stiff. The odors and smell is not bad and will dissipate soon after installation. You cannot glue a true hard wood to a slab so they are right about that. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar, I ve done several 1000 s/f of glue direct engineered wood and a few 100,000 s/f of laminate. GL
Q: How to install a solid wood floor
2 the use of keel shop to try, keel and accessories must be dry, can not be inferior, pollution, moisture, perishable, easy to moth eaten materials for keel and accessories, otherwise not construction.3 of the first floor (ground leveling height difference is too large, should be based on the skids, leveling) between the keel and keel wood keel fixed on the ground by drilling or hammer nails.
Q: installed engineered hardwood floor (930 square feet) directly on concrete slab - glued down. I have notice some separation at the seams. What can I do to correct this?
Unfortunately, your glue has not adhered to the concrete properly, so the only thing you can do is to remove and start over...sorry !~
Q: We are about to finish the floors in our basement and the guy at home depot suggested engineered wood floors instead of pergo type floors. They r real wood, do you know if this is a good product, and any negative things about it. Also the guy said it could be refinished, but it looked too thin for that to me.
To add to what the others have already explained, yes, engineered floors are ideal to put in basements. The layers that comprise it's core doesn't actually help to expel the floor's moisture content BUT it does help the floor to adjust to changing climates and varying levels of humidity. The engineered construction fights against the adverse reaction of contraction and expansion and lessens the chances of warping, buckling, cupping, etc. With regards to your concern that it may be too thin to be refinished, you probably want to clarify with the Home Depot guy if it's re-sandable AND refinishable or just the latter. Find out what the actual wear layer of the floor is. If it is less than 2mm, chances are you can only refinish it. 2mm and thicker is still re-sandable at least once, and sand lightly only. You can refinish without sanding the finish off by using the appropriate chemical/solvent. Lowe's has a table of different liquids you can use to chemically sand the finish off so you can apply a fresh new coat:
Q: My husband and I installed an engineered wood floor in our basement a year ago - about 1100 sq. ft. Within a month we noticed 3 spots that give or make a sticking sound when you walk over them. Obviously, the adhesive didn't take or it was partially dried when we laid that portion of the floor (hey, that's what no experience gets you ; ) Water and humidity are not a problem in this basement, concrete sub-floor has cured for 15 years prior to installation and it is level.One suggestion was to drill a small hole and use a hypodermic type needle to inject more adhesive under the floor and then weigh the spot down for it to adhere. Any other suggestions that don't include ripping the floor up? Or any suggestions on where to buy the hypo-glue tool?
Gee everyone makes it seem so easy. It was done years ago so it is solvent based adhesive. Those remover solutions that people are talking about are mostly for spot removels not large areas. Chances are that the glue has sucked into the grain of the wood especially if it's oak. Go to a flooring place and ask them what to use (not a home center,those people know jack sh*t).Better yet ask them what it would cost for them to remove it.
Q: Is thickness a major concern with engineered hardwood flooring? My subfloor is 3/4 ply.Here's an example.
Thickness and the coat(s) of urethane that actually protect the top is what is the most important. Pro.. Engineered you do get a high quality straight board, easier for the average DIY job. Not so in all 3/4 flooring. Theses you some times fight a bit to install and keep straight. Pro.. you can redo 3/4 flooring, usually several time. Con.. Not always with 3/8 since its a veneer, you can do it once usually. 3/4 flooring is fine for both as long as its flat. 3/8 engineered with a harder wood on top can out last oak..So check the janka rating for hardness. Most depends on the over all care you put into each flooring. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q: I was told a thick layer of polyurethane glue works just as well as cork for sound proofing for hardwood floors on above ground levels.
Well When choosing between hardwood and engineered wood the biggest thing that you need to considered is the climate area in which you live. Being in Florida (thats where i live) engineered is definately recomended because it is a much more stable product, due to it's resitance to warping and bowing because of its construction. But if a floor is properly installed there should be no difference, unless it is installed over a plywood sub-floor. However if you are considering laminate flooring that will create a hollow sound with a base grade foam/moisture barrier, however there are some upgrades to the underlayment which will give you a more dense sounding floor.
Q: House to be renovated headache for the choice of the floor, wooden floor appearance, but it will also decay, deformation, anti termite; and there is no tile problem, but now many people use wood floor, people really do not know how to choose? Do you have any friends who can give professional advice?
Wood floors are solid wood flooring, solid wood flooring and laminate flooring.Wood floors and tiles, each has advantages and disadvantages, can be compared from the following angles
Q: We are getting a engineered wood floor, does it hurt to put antique grandfather clock directly on floor.?
a grandfather clock should be fine... use felt pads like everyone else said... be careful of very heavy items. I had a tenant put a very heavy antique organ on a floating hardwood floor... about 2 weeks later, there was a noticable bubble (about 4 high) in the floor about four feet infront of the organ... the weight of the organ was compressing the 1/8 foam under the floor and was putting a tremendous amount of stress on the flooring, which buckled the floor. The organ was moved, and it took about 6 weeks for the floor to relax back into shape.

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