Yongsen Classic Red Oak Color Antique Ecological Solid Wood Floor
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Nanjing
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 20 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
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1、Material properties
Oak is widely used for decoration materials and furniture making, is the excellent material properties: heavy oak hard straight grain, coarse structure, elegant color texture appearance, very high mechanical strength, wear resistance, but the wood is not easy to dry sawing and cutting. Oak is widely used for decoration materials and furniture making, is the excellent material properties: heavy oak hard straight grain, coarse structure, elegant color texture appearance, very high mechanical strength, wear resistance, but the wood is not easy to dry sawing and cutting. Oak is a large number of applications in the decoration materials, furniture, sports equipment, shipbuilding, vehicles, flooring, etc.. Post surface of plywood as the ideal timber production slices of white oak, red oak is, the pattern there are straight and perpendicular to the grain of the difference, straight grain is beautiful, the price is slightly expensive.
2、Product Characteristics
1, has a more distinct mountain wood, and touch the surface with good texture;
2, toughness is excellent, can be processed into a variety of needs, a variety of bending, quite a sense of beauty.
3, solid texture, manufactured goods firm structure, long service life, used in many antique lattice windows and doors production;
4, the stability of the floor is relatively good.
5, higher grades, suitable for the production of European style furniture, Chinese classical furniture, a sense of thick, mahogany furniture is dignified and calm, but the price is lower than mahogany furniture. Cool, comfortable;
6, oak fine texture, tube inner hole more transgressive filling, is not easy to absorb water, corrosion resistance, strength, Europe and the United States used to store wine.
7, texture rich, beautiful, natural pattern;
3、Parameter
1 material: Oak
Origin: Zhejiang
Style: European classical
Standard: Class A
Applicable scope: bedroom
Pattern: Wood
Special purpose: anti-corrosion
Plate finish: 1
Surface shape: hand grasp pattern
Residual depression: no
Formaldehyde release rate: E1
Resist pressure: 1
Wear layer thickness: 3mm
Wear resistance: 1
Fading (grade): 1
Floor thickness: 18mm
Color: Red
Specifications: 910*122*18
4、Reference pictures
- Q:What are the shortcomings of solid wood flooring, what are the shortcomings of solid wood flooring
- Of course, solid wood flooring also has its own shortcomings
- Q:Solid wood flooring, laminate flooring, composite flooring, which is more environmentally friendly?
- Composition, the most environmentally friendly wood floors, followed by solid wood composite flooring, and finally to strengthen the composite floor. However, consumers have to avoid a misunderstanding, not to say that things do not contain formaldehyde and environmental protection, as long as the formaldehyde content within the acceptable range of human health and environmental protection, is the floor of the national standard, formaldehyde content reach E1 standard, is the environmental health ground decoration materials.
- Q:what's a good brand for hardwood floor, laminate and engineering wood?
- Don't go laminate or any of that crap. Get the real mccoy, in 3/4 oak. I did our floor in some of the best stuff on the market, 3/4 inch oak. I don't unfortunately, remember the company's name. Started with an E. 4 months later we sold that house, I didn't know I was going to be selling it. I think I actually recouped that money I spent (did the labor myself) on that floor because that room was KILLER LOVELY. I kept samples of that flooring on the table for prospective buyers to inspect. It was a real selling point.
- Q:my daughter had a pee pee accident last night on her bedroom floor and didn't tell us. when I woke her in the morning, the damage was done. I wiped it up, but there is damage starting at the seams....please help...
- If you are noticing moisture damage at the seems, then you either have a very cheap engineered hardwood floor or a laminate floor. If you are seeing separation of the laminate or swelling of the joints, there is little you can do other than waiting for the floor to completely dry. If the swelling/separation remains, then the only option is to replace the damaged planks.
- Q:We have ceramic tiles in the living room and kitchen. We would like to have wood floors in the living room and new ceramic tiles in the kitchen. Is it possible to do this without taking out the old ceramic tiles? The old tiles are in great condition with no cracks or loose tiles.
- yes - very carefully - but yes.
- Q:The guy I hired says its better to glue and nail the very expensive engineered hardwood flooring I just bought. The store that I purchased it from says that you should either nail or glue and not do both. This concerns me and if any of you are installers please let me know what the disadvantage of doing it this way, the handyman I hired already installed the floors this way in two of the rooms and is working on the rest of the house soon, I want to do it the right way. Everytime I question him, he tells me he's been in this business for 25 years, and gives me this tone to not question him.
- Me, the 1 st poster is absolutely right. It is the best over all way to do engineered or a pure solid 3/4 hard wood floor. Yes more expensive and time consuming but its the best overall way to install these types of woods. Treat the man to a home made simple lunch or some coffee in the a.m. when the work is done, he sounds like a good guy. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.GL
- Q:The floors in my home are hardwood and have been refinished once--badly. Since it is an old house, the hardwood is the subfloor, and many of the boards are stained, warped, or very uneven. some clearly have no support under the ends of the boards. I'm debating what do to. I'm afraid they're too thin to refinish and still provide support. Besides, the warping and lack of support make them unattractive anyway. I'm thinking of laying a new subfloor over them and laying either carpet or engineered hardwood, which seems easier and cleaner anyway. If I go that route, how thick does the plywood subfloor need to be? thoughts?
- I'm going to take a wild guess here and say that what you're calling a hardwood floor is your subfloor, meant to be structural but not pretty. Someone finished it anyway. They used to use planks, could have been any kind of wood depending on what was available locally but it's probably not a hardwood. It was often 1x6, not plywood as we use today, sometimes laid diagonally, sometimes not. That's why it's so poor. It was not meant as the finish flooring. First before anything, you'll have to make sure it's supported properly, or at least check why those boards are moving. There's no point installing anything on top of parts that aren't supported. Then I would use plywood, flooring grade T & G, minimum 5/8 or whatever your local code calls for, screwed down. Even if you're not getting an inspection, thinner than that will flex and cause problems and is worth every extra penny. Some idiot installed subfloor too thin in one part of my house, saving himself about $40, and the floor bounced when you walked on it. I had to add the 5/8 on top of it.
- Q:I need to match the engineered hardwood from Summitt Forest (Mendocino, American Walnut 5in wide, 0.5 inch thick, Autumn Harvest color). Has anyone else done this before? If you have can you share a close match?
- We had engineered floors in our Cary home. I hated them, but that's another story (but I agree with your husband--keep your tile in the kitchen because one drop of water did damage ours). I was told that ours could be refinished once (not sure about changing the color). You need to check with whoever installed yours about that. But, if you did refinish the existing floors you may never be able to do it again. Personally, if you're committed to putting down engineered floors, I'd stick with the same color unless you want to tear out what you already have.
- Q:Can I put engineered wood in my Florida condo....we are not there in summer months and are on the tenth floor on biscayne bay in Miami
- Absolutely, engineered flooring is made to stand up to adverse conditions. You can even lay it directly on a concrete slab! It won't last through repeated soaking, but it stands up well to high humidity and heat and is easy to keep clean. Check with a local flooring company that sells and installs engineered wood for the full spiel.
- Q:What is better for a townhouse we cannot do normal hardwood due to the concreet bottom so it's between engineered hardwood (Brazilian Cherry Br111) or the wood laminate(Pergo Brazilian Cherry). What's better?
- Hardwood flooring would give you the best resale for the money, but is expensive. Hardwood could run anywhere from 3 to 10 dollars per square foot. If it is scratched, it can be sanded and redone later on. Engineered is a hardwood floor, but cannot be refinished in case something happens. Also costs around 2.5 to 4 dollars square foot. Laminate looks a little cheaper, but will hold up better than hardwood or Engineered in the long run. I would suggest the Pergo 30 year warranty. Hardwood has to be nailed down to the floor, Engineered has to be tacked or glued down and laminate is free floating. In the case of the hardwood and engineered, you would have to pull up the ceramic tile. With laminate, you MAY not have to do that. Laminate in stock should cost around 2 to 4 dollars a square foot. A lot of laminate floors now look like the real thing. I suggest you do some window shopping to find out for yourself.
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Yongsen Classic Red Oak Color Antique Ecological Solid Wood Floor
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Nanjing
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 20 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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