Yongsen Indoor Matt Solid Wood Floor
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Nanjing
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 20 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 2000 m²/month
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1、Material properties
Diffuse porous wood, heartwood and sapwood yellowish white, the difference is not obvious. Sapwood pale. Growth wheel is not obvious. The tube hole is slightly under the naked eye, and the number is small, and the body is slightly larger. The axial parenchyma tissue is not visible under the naked eye, and the magnifying glass is obvious. Wood ray magnifying glass is obvious. No ripple and intercellular canal.
Wood with a gloss, no special smell and taste, straight texture, fine structure, even a little; weight of wood basic density 0.49g/cm3, air dry density 0.59 g / cm3), dry shrinkage, moderate intensity. Wood drying performance is good, fast drying, cracking, deformation is small; the poor resistance to corrosion, preservative, good performance. Wood sawing, planing and other processing easy, smooth surface, good adhesive properties.
2、Product Characteristic
Advantages: paint is soft, and not dazzling, floor slightly flaw can not see, a long time often go to the place and go a little place is not obvious.
3、Parameter
Material: fiber skin jade
Origin: Zhejiang
Style: Modern
Standard: ISO90001
Applicable scope: bedroom
Pattern: Wood
Special purpose: wear resistant
Plate finish: good
Surface shape: paint
Residual depression: no
Formaldehyde release rate: E1
Resistance: good
Wear layer thickness: 3cm
Abrasion resistance: good
Fading (stage):1
Floor thickness: 18mm
Colors: yellow, red
Specifications: 910*115*18
4、Reference pictures
- Q: In addition to the bathroom, kitchen and balcony, I would like to decorate the whole house is covered with solid wood, because I like to sit on the floor, you have a home shop wood? The weather is relatively humid in the south, it will be difficult to take care of it? Because it is too much, so I intend to fight! Ha-ha
- Laying and maintenance of solid wood flooring (1) the floor should be laid in the late construction, shall not cross construction. Sanding and painting should be done as soon as possible. So as not to dirty the floor or make damp deformation. (2) the laying of the floor should be stacked before the laying of the laying of the site for 1 ~ 2 days to adapt to the environment, so as to avoid the expansion of the deformation after laying.
- Q: How to maintain composite wood floor
- After the completion of the parquet floor, at least 24 hours before health can be used, otherwise it will affect the use of solid wood flooring. General wood composite floor water resistance is poor, it is not appropriate to wipe with a damp cloth or water, so as not to lose luster. In the daily life, we must maintain a good wood composite flooring.
- Q: installed engineered hardwood floor (930 square feet) directly on concrete slab - glued down. I have notice some separation at the seams. What can I do to correct this?
- Unfortunately, your glue has not adhered to the concrete properly, so the only thing you can do is to remove and start over...sorry !~
- Q: Does buffing engined hardwood floors really work? Could it take out scratches and slight water damage?
- Engineered flooring can be treated just like regular hardwood flooring.... UP TO A POINT. Engineered flooring is a product made up of a thin veneer of the preferred wood applied to a plywood backing or base. You can do anything to this veneer that you would do to a solid hardwood, BUT you will be limited to how aggressive and how many times you can do it by the thickness of the veneer. You will eventually wear though the veneer and into the substrate. So unless the water damage has delaminated the flooring, slight sanding and buffing will help remove the damage provided you do not go too far
- Q: I am installing about 1000sf of engineered hardwood flooring, and I would like to use the Bostitch SB-150SX finish stapler that I already own to fasten the flooring. Has anyone attempted using a finish stapler (as opposed to a flooring stapler) to install flooring? Am I making a mistake?
- Yes you can, depending on the thickness. 1/2 thickness max. 1 1/2 long, 3/16 crown staple every 4 to 6 inches and no more than 2 inches from the end. I have two of these staplers and have laid 1000's of sq. ft. without a problem. Lay the flooring pependicular to the floor joists and you should be fine.
- Q: Is there a way to protect (seal, wax, etc) engineered hard-wood flooring ?
- You can finish unfinished engineered flooring the same way as solid hardwood flooring...stain and choose your finish....this is a big job, and will take you a few days to do it correctly...you might want to talk to a professional to get all the ins and outs or considered having it done by a professional.
- Q: 1. I live on the 14th floor of a 60 year old building. Would I need a moisture barrier?2. I want to glue hardwood to cork underlayment and float the cork underlayment over the concrete. Is this possible or advisable?
- Most engineered flooring doesn't require a glue down, if you do want to glue it down, you'll have to do it directly to the concrete. You can a concrete sealer as a vapor barrier. I've installed most of these systems using a foam vapor barrier with no fastening, as a floating floor. Good Luck!
- Q: I am laying 5 1/2 inch Thomasville Mahagony Engineered wood flooring. Occasionally I do not get them as snug as I would like, but most of the time it is a nice fit. Is this ok, or should I panic?
- If there are excessive spaces (cracks) between the slats, they will always be there. This may or may not be a problem as far as compromising the moisture barrier (spilled water can seep between the cracks). But, if you can see the cracks now, it will probably always bother you. When putting down that type of flooring, you have to use a hammer and piece of wood to knock the slats together and eliminate the cracks. There should not be any gaps between the slats.
- Q: Hi, We are planning to get Engineered Hardwood in our home (Family and bedrooms). I was wondering if glue or nails is the way to go. Both areas have sub floors. I have read that Engg Hardwood floors may be more noisy. How can we prevent that.Thank you
- engineered hard wood is a ply board with a top layer of the hard wood you want ( example oak) this is much cheaper than solid hard wood and has the same look and feel but with less warping and reaction to moisture it can be fixed down or used as a floating floor the fixings will depend on witch type of floor you ar laying nails ar a quick and cost effective way of fixing a floor provided you use the correct sort (use of a floor fixing tool) a floating floor (one that is not fixed to the sub floor ) can be nosier than a fixed floor but the use of a Quality underlay would stop this
- Q: floating floor I've heard of is always in reference to laminate. Why couldn't a person float an engineered wood floor?
- Ok no.1 Never glue carpet to hardwood floors. The floors will be destroyed. You only have two solutions. A- WHich I feel is the best in your circumstance is to get a large area rug or carpet to fit the room and buy non skid area rug pad. It can be bought at home depot . It is a rubber mesh that when layed under your carpet or rug hold sit in place and also protects the floor from becoming scratched with the backing of some carpets. B- Get Tackstrip which home depot also carries and nail it around the perimeter of the room with the pins or nails angled toward the walls and rent a power stretcher to attach it to the tackstrip. After removal of the carpet you will have to fill in holes that the tackstrip left with matching wood putty to keep your deposit in tact. I would go with option a if it were me. Good Luck on your decision.
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Yongsen Indoor Matt Solid Wood Floor
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Nanjing
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 20 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 2000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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