• XLPE insulated and PVC sheathed power cable 0.6/1kV (unarmoured) System 1
  • XLPE insulated and PVC sheathed power cable 0.6/1kV (unarmoured) System 2
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  • XLPE insulated and PVC sheathed power cable 0.6/1kV (unarmoured) System 6
XLPE insulated and PVC sheathed power cable 0.6/1kV (unarmoured)

XLPE insulated and PVC sheathed power cable 0.6/1kV (unarmoured)

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0.6/1kV CU/XLPE/PVC Power cable YJV low voltage electrical copper wire cable  

It applies to electrical power transmission and distribution lines with AC rated voltage Uo/U up to and including 0.6/1kV. For outdoor and indoor installation in damp and wet locations, laid directly in the ground where excessive mechanical stresses are present in sloping and moving terrains and in vertical or inclined laying, as well as in locations susceptible to sliding.

  • Voltage rating: 0.6/1kV

  • Standard applied: IEC60502, BS7870, GB/T12706

  • Max. working temp.: 90°C, can be 110°C as per requirement

  • Max. Short-circuit temperature of the conductor shall not be exceeding 250°C (Max. sustaing period not exceeding 5S)

  • Conductor: Class 1/2 annealed bare copper solid or strands

  • Insulation: XLPE (cross linked Polyethylene)

  • Outer sheath: PVC

  • Cores:  1C, 2C, 3C,4C,5C, 3C+1E,4C+1E,3C+2E

  • Cross section area: 1.5 ~ 630 sqmm

  • Color: Black or as per requirement

  • Bending radius: Not less than 15 times of the cable's OD

  • Test voltage: 3.5kV/5min

  • Packing: Wooden drum or as per requirement

  • Certification: ISO9001/ISO14001/OHSMS18001/CE/CB/CCC/SAA

  • OEM: Available

  • BDK cables has  very good sales over the world, enjoying a very good reputation based on top quality and most competitive price and best service.

  • Remark: The cable can be of flame retardance, fire resistance and environment friendly or other property

Parameter sheet



Main manufacturing procedure

  • Copper wire drawing and annealing

  • Copper wire stranding

  • XLPE insulation extruding

  • Cores twisting

  • Outer sheath extruding and labelling

  • Spooling


Main Quality Inspection Equipment

Sparker tester,Heating aging Chamber,High resistance machine, Oxygen index equipment, Partial ischarge inspection instruments, Fireproof testing device,High-power voltage withstand tester,No-rotor Vulkameter,Pull tester,Analytical balance,Direct current bridge,Plastic tester,Projector, Punch machine,Cross-linked cutting machine,etc.


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Q: I found some cable online that I can use, but haven't had any experience with any of this.
Hi Ian: That cable you refered to is called Siamese cable meaning it's RG-59 coax + an outer power cable twinned to it (as a single run) for powering a remote camera. If that's the purpose for the coax you need (or you are wanting to wire a car backup camera with power and video signal, for example) then this is the correct cable to use. However, if you just want to run a video, antenna, or cable-box signal, and don't need the power cable feature, this particular brand of cable is a waste of money. Feel free to use the Additional Details link to post an Update to the discussion, and I or another Y!A Contributor can give you more info on the topic of what your application is for the coax cable. hope this helps, --Dennis C.
Q: Asus Motherboard: P7P55D-E ProIntel CPU: Core i5-750 Quad-Core Desktop LGA1156BFG Tech Video Card: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT 512 MBPower Supply: Thermaltake TR2 600WRAM: PNY 2GB DDR3 PC3-10666 1333MHzHD: Seagate 320GBTitle says it all. I've google my heart out looking for answers. Many say maybe power supply is bad. I tested my old PS and it still doesn't work. Try new Cable. Try every RAM slot. Made sure my CPU is nice and tight. Sigh...headache....headache.
It could be 1 or multple issues. You can also be one of the few of the DOA (Dead On Arrival) products. My best suggestion, is to take out the graphics card first, then try to boot it up. IF no go, then try taking out 1 stick of ram, then the next. Also, ensure you have your heatsink/fan sitting on that processor with some Thermalpaste making contact. You may have your heatsink and fan is not properly seating right on the processor. last but not least, could be the PSU is just dead. Make sure you have it set to 115v as well. If you have tried all of these and still nothing, then you either have a Dead Motherboard or Dead Processor.
Q: i cant drill a hole through the firewall because there's too much stuff in the way. so can i run the power cable to the power wire from the radio. the radio power wire is what im talking about. can i do that instead of running it to the battery? thanks
back interior the day whilst audio electronics became into evolving from monophonic sound to stereophonic sound, producers of stereo audio electronics precise the left channel enter for monophonic sound (in case you in elementary terms had one enter) and, if there became into no longer something plugged into the magnificent enter jack, the monophonic sound became into allotted to the two left and precise inputs. on condition that mono is fairly uncommon those days, i don't be conscious of if this continues to be everyday on stereo inputs (which includes powered subwoofers), yet you are able to try it. If it isn't the case (plugging it into the left enter purely is going interior the path of the left amplifier), no count in case you split the sign or no longer is in fact a wash. A subwoofer has 2 voice coils on the motive force, one powered by using the left enter and the different powered by using the magnificent enter. in case you purely have, say, the left enter plugged in, you're in elementary terms using the subwoofer with the left amplifier and voice coil. in case you split it, you're actually using the two voice coils. yet, the split itself cuts the sign point in 0.5. So, you have 0.5 as lots sign enter to each amplifier and the output quantity of the subwoofer heavily is not any distinctive than purely plugging in one enter. one element you are able to desire to do is to get a small, low-value stereo amp or receiver, plug the LFE output into one enter, set the amplifier mode to mono, and run the two line outputs to the subwoofer. that would desire to furnish you 2 complete line point inputs to the subwoofer from the only LFE cable.
Q: Cable bttz-4 * (1 * 50) and bttz-4 * 50 What is the difference
There is no difference between BTTZ25 square can only do single core. BTTZ is a kind of outer layer with seamless copper tube jacket, the middle filled with magnesia crystal powder as insulation material, the conductor is a single strand of copper rods composed of new cables, in recent years are also more used in high-rise buildings, airports, Underground railways and other places, to protect the fire in the case of fire pumps, fire elevators, local lighting, emergency evacuation instructions, security monitoring, anti-smoke system and self-powered power and other important equipment uninterrupted operation. The main features of the editor it has a high temperature, fire, explosion, no combustion (250 ℃ can be a long time running, 1000 ℃ limit state can also be 30min short time operation) and the current flow, small diameter, high mechanical strength , Long service life, generally do not need the characteristics of independent grounding wire. Application range Editor Widely used in nuclear power plants, metallurgy, chemical industry, mine, kiln and other dangerous, bad, high temperature environment. In recent years, more applications in high-rise buildings, airports, docks, subway and other places, to protect the fire in the case of fire pumps, fire elevators, local lighting, emergency evacuation instructions, security surveillance, anti-smoke system and self Power and other fire fighting and important equipment without interruption.
Q: I currently have a 250 watt 2 channel power cord and a 500 watt alpine amp with 2 12 inch mtx terminator subs..i am continuously blowing blade fuses and i ended up buying a 680 watt power cable. Will this blow out my amp or do any damage or will it be all good and give the maximum power my amp can supply? (Without exploding) just wondering thanks!
no sir it will not, infact it may completly stop the problem, i would say to much current is passing through the wire, if the amp will accept the wire (even if its a tight fit) thats what your looking for. so to answer your question using the 680 watt wiring kit is just what you need and will be perfect, you could even get the 1200 watt wiring kit if need be, (assumikng you bought the schosche kit from walmart)
Q: Now i get a message saying I have low system voltage. Is this gonna impair performance? Are there adapters for this?This is for a DESKTOP. Dell XPS.
What? What are you saying? What processor uses a 10 pin power connector? You did 'say' CPU! (Central Processing Unit) Or do you mean the 20 pin ATX Motherboard connector? (AMD's use no power to processor connector. Intel Pentium 4 and UP, use a four pin power connector, from the power supply to the motherboard. (Mobo) Edit: Low System Voltage will start with causing weird things to happen. Then the computer motherboard power headers,(Connectors), will burn up. I suggest you turn this computer off, un-plug it, and email me.
Q: I have a simple 400watt amp going to a single 10inch kicker sub, nothing crazy. I need to know what gauge of power cable would be safe. An 8 gauge for example...
Voltage isn't your significant enemy while coping with electrical energy. that is present day or amps that are the foremost venture. you could think of of it like a water hose, the V is the value of the water, the A is the quantity. Take Ohm's regulation as an occasion. Say we've an amp that's producing 1000W With a 230V capability gadget we've 4.3A, with a 14V capability gadget we've 71A. that's a good number of amperage. vehicle capability cables have a thick jacket to keep away from shorts, shorts are undesirable. in case you had a great cable going from one end of your vehicle to the different, and not employing a fuse. (lot's of people do not fuse properly) If that cable is presented in touch with the metallic of the motor vehicle it is going to short and that entire cable is going to get crimson warm and burn your vehicle to the floor.
Q: Ever time I try screwing in my power cable sparks fly.My amp has no off switch.and my car is turned off.wtf?Help me out/
Very simple...remove the negative clamp from the battery in your car before you attempt to do any thing. now the circuit is broken... make sure your ground for your amp is going to something metal on your car... I imagine you are trying to hook your power cable to the positive clamp on your battery... After the amp is grounded. you may now hook-up the power cable on to the positive terminal of the battery. tighten the positive terminal with your amp power line together. Then when you are sure the amp is grounded...( ground wire to metal )...you have a ground wire from the amp also. take the positive battery post wire and reattach... then the negative battery post wire... the battery wires sould not get hot or change temp, you will know as it happens quickly... now if all the wires are done right and your cables don't heat up, it is safe. if you turn on the stereo now and it dosen't work, it just means you blew the fuse on the line to the stereo. find on the line, replace it... it is a safety thing so you don't blow the amp or burn the car down... When ever you work on a car always remove the NEGITIVE post on the battery...
Q: ok so i opend up my machine, and i bassicly took apart the processor and removed the dail up pci card thingy, then i put it all back together and i also took off the case, which meant removing all case power leads, quot;power SWand power led etc. but i put them all in the same place i took them out, well i think i did, theres so many different slots it they could go into, it would take at least 500 attempts to find the right slots for all, not to mention the fact i might blow the board. so has anyone got the manual for this motherboard. or no where to find an online one. cus i need to know where to plug them in. thanks
hi bradley we have all been there before.... rebuilt a pc and forgot which connectors go where on the motherboard.... however if you go to your motherboard manufactuers website you should be able to download the motherboard manual which will have a detailed diagram showing you were each connector goes however in theory you can get away with just plugging in the power connector ( power sw ) ....and it wont do any harm trying each combination... however i would recommend trying the top row of pins... and make sure you insert the connector horizontally as you look at it for example check this image of the power sw connector properly connected ( img204.imageshack.us/img204/8682/... ) .....as you can see the power sw is using pins 3 and 4 on the back row of pins.... so give that a try firstas i stated you wont blow the board..... ive seen people use screwdrivers to start their motherboards .. and this is done by shorting two pins.... so theres no way you are going to blow your motherboard..... however i would try to locate your motherboard manual first.... and failing that try my method.... and a good idea is to draw a diagram of your motherboard pins ... then as soon as you have tried a combination mark it off.... at least this way you are not going to try the same combination twice i hope this has helped,any problems let me know good luck bradley !
Q: Many of the complete amplifier kits, example rated for a 700 watt amplifier come with a 10 gauge power cable. Many of the gauge charts from the online car audio techs, would recommend a 4 gauge wire, but they sell the amp kits with the 10 gauge. I guess bigger is better, more efficient and safer for the installation, but I would expect them to add some * adjacent to the kit specs with their recommendation.
with that kind of amp go with 8 gauge

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