QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality System 1

QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

Basic Info. of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

Model NO.:200QW350-20-37; 500QW2800-22-250

Pump Casing Combined:Verticaljoint Surface Pump

Impeller:Closed

Working Pressure:Low Pressure Pump

Position of Pump Shaft:Vertical Pump

Usage:Pump

Impeller Number:Single-Stage Pump

Influent Type of Impeller:Single Suction Pump

Mounting Height:Since Irrigation Centrifugal Pumps

Capacity:Lower Than 3750 M3/H

Head:Lower Than 60 M

Export Markets:Global

Description of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW type submersible sewage pump is developed based on imported advanced technology abroad. It has the advantages of high efficiency, not easy to enlace, no clogging, auto-coupling and auto-control
The advantages of QW pump are its small volume, compact structure and high efficiency, with products more than 15kW. It can detect the water leakage, overheat, overload protection. And as the requirements of user, an auto-protection control cabinet which has liquid level control shall be equipped.
Installation type of QW type pump has auto-coupling installation and movable installation.
QWN type submersible sewage pump is developed based on QW type pump, absorbing advanced technology abroad.

Application Area of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW type pump is mainly used in urban construction, industry, hospital, building, hotel, restaurant and so on. It is used to transport silt, urban sewage containing solid granule and long fiber.
QWN type pump is mainly applied in municipal engineering, steel plant, power plant, mines and some other wear-resistant sites for discharging sludge and waster water containing solid particles.

Performance Range of QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump

QW
Outlet diameter: ≤ 600mm(2"-20")
Capacity: ≤ 3750m3/h
Head: ≤ 60m
Speed: 740r/min 970r/min 1450r/min 2980r/min
Matched power: 1.5-270kW

QWN
Outlet diameter: ≤ 600mm
Capacity: ≤ 3750 m3/h
Head: ≤ 60 m
Speed: 1430r/min 2480r/min
Matched power: 3-220kW

FAQ

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

QW(N) -Type Submerged Dredgepump with High Quality

Q: I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help: The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.

Q: The leak is in the same area as my water pump, but when I jacked my car up yesterday, I wasn't able see my water pump. It's a 99 Saturn SL1.With the leak, it leaks very slowly, and it only leaks about a few ounces of fluid at a time. It mostly only leaks when I start the engine while its cooled down, and it's leaking down the passenger side of my engine.If it was a bad water pump, would the antifreeze leak without stopping until all of the antifreeze is gone?: When the water pump seal fails it's either because the water pump bushing/bearing is bad or because someone was running straight water in the cooling system. Once a water pump starts to leak it needs to be replaced immediately. If you let it go it will start to leak more and faster as the seal deteriorates. You will spend more money topping up the system with antifreeze then to just fix it. The other thing that will happen is you will get caught as it fails completely and overheat the motor causing thousands in damages or at least need a tow which once again will cost more than replacing the water pump.

Q: I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?: Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.

Q: I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier the head gasket is shot[i think] checked thermostat and checked for clogs, flushed system, noticed bottom of radiator is cold but top is hot, is water pump shot?does not wiggle, or did i put thermostat in backwards? Steam poors out exhaust: Well, the most common failure on a water pump is that the seals go and then it begins to leak, and drips or pours down the side of the engine. As to the bottom of the radiator being cool, bear in mind that a large number of cars and trucks have a transmission cooler or oil cooler located at the bottom section of the radiator, and that would of course remain cooler than the cooling system as the oil or transmission fluid do not conduct heat as well, not do they tend to get quite so hot. I would guess you have not gotten the thermostat in backward, as if it were never to open, it would not allow the hot coolant from the engine into the radiator against the flow of the water pump. As to the head gasket, yes, steam from the exhaust is a fairly strong indicator that coolant is getting into the combustion chamber and being steamed off. Of course, that could also be a cracked block or cylinder head or a warped head that caused the gasket to fail, but the head gasket would be the first thing to examine.

Q: Do it yourself steps: Yes - always change the water pump with the timing belt. The tensioner should also be changed, and it is a good idea to change the crankshaft and cam seals while you are in there. It's a big disappointment for any of those to fail between belt changes. The water pump and tensioner can also cause the belt to fail prematurely.

Q: ok so i have a crack in my radiator a small crack but anyways yesterday it caused my car to over heat. i normally keep coolant in the car but it just got low and over heated pretty bad. so today the car is making a really loud annoying noise. coolant is also draining out of the bottom of the engine when the car is on. at a pretty good pace. it is coming out like right under the belt area so my friend said it is probably the water pump baring and he said it could have gotten damaged when it over heated. so i think these symptoms def point to the water pump. anyways i called a mechanic and he said that he had to change the belt to and he said he had to charge me $385. what you guys think. does he need to change the pump and the belt or just the pump? and is $385 a rip off or is that the going rate? thank you all for your knowledgeand information: That water pump is driven by the timing belt. Usually when you do a timing belt or water pump it makes sense to change both now because they are both difficult to get to and you have to take off the same things for both. $385 is a bad price If you want to look smart about it, ask him to look at and check the seals, all he would be able to tell you is if they are leaking, if they are, ask him how much more. It's all worth it if the car is still good. We just did that on a friend's '91 and her's overheated a few times. She ha 235,000 miles.

Q: To get at the timing belt on a Toyota 3.4L V6, does the water pump first need to be removed?If so, is there a way to tell how worn a water pump with 85,000 miles is? Like a loose bearing feel, etc?: We have a Camry Conquest V6 1998 model and all these are similar in desing and yes it is recomened as most of the items removed to replace timing belt also will need to be removed if water pump fails and ta a cost of about $900 AUD each time best to replace together for an extra $100 or so. We usualy replace all the following every 100.000 kilometers: Timing belt kits including all pullies, Water pump, Drive belts (The ones for air cond and generator) and becuase half the motor has to be dismantled to reple the spark plugs we also do these as well. All together it cost about $1200.00 AUD to do them all together well worth it and saves you about $1000.00 in servicing in long run. Hope this is helpfull. Note our cars has just turned on to 388.000 kilometers with out missing a beat also we change oil and fileter and service it as required by the service book but then again it never has broken down or given us problems. Its better than buying new car everytime the blow up du to no proper servicing. :)

Q: Fire hydrant and fire pump adapter difference: The most simple argument is outside fire hydrant water pump adapter, irrigation from.More outdoor fire hydrant, both sides of the road can be seen at any time, that is, red like a villain, there is a hat on the head. Pump adapter is not that hat.

Q: I have a 2001 2500HD duramax and it is leaking antifreeze under the truck. I leaks a a drop every second what could be causing this: If you can narrow down the location to being from the actual water pump and not a line, It would be the seal in the water pump. The only option is to replace the water pump.

Q: My pt crusier water pump went out. Are there any tricks to fixing it? My husband wants to take a crack at it because it is 800.00 to have it fixed by a local mechanic here in Spring Hill. If anyone knows any tricks to doing it or where I can get it done cheaper in Spring Hill?! Let me know!!!!: The water pump is driven by the timing belt on this motor. If it is not done right, you could cause serious damage to the engine. Actually $800 to change the pump and timing belt is reasonable. To lower the price further you could negotiate buying your own parts. Good luck.

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