Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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1. Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve descriptions
Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve is a professional design for the opening and closing of all kinds of strong corrosive medium, the body USES the carbon steel precision casting, lined with fluorine plastic ball valve and flow components are using steel skeleton outsourcing fluorine plastic.
Widely used in petroleum, chemical, acid alkali, pesticides, dyes, waste-water treatment, electroplating, electronics and other industries.
2. Application environment
Applicable temperature-20℃~120℃
Nominal diameter:(DN)20-250mm
Nominal pressure:(PN)1.0MPa
3. Model sense
EX : Q41F-10-C-65
-Q: Type code:ballvalve
-4: Code for connection type: Flange
-1 : Code for connection type: Floating direct flow type
-F: Parts which is in contact with liquid flow is made with fluorine plastic
-10: Nominal Pressure 1.0MPa
-C: Material of valve body is carbon steel with melt mold
-65: Nominal Diameter is 65mm
4. Model and parameter technical
5. Products features
-The fluorine lined ball valve with FEP lining layer has extremely high chemical stability and can be applied to any strong corrosion property except "molten alkali metal and element fluorine".
- Fluorine lined ball valve adopts the structure of full diameter and floating ball. The valve can be closed without leakage within the whole pressure range, which is more convenient for the ball cleaning and pipeline maintenance of the pipeline system.
- Ball parts and valve stem casting (forging) are integrated, eliminating the possibility of the valve stem bursting out of the pressure part due to pressure change, and fundamentally ensuring the safety in engineering.
- Fluorine lined ball valve structure is compact and reasonable, the body cavity space is the smallest, reduce the medium retention, in addition, special molding process, make the sealing surface density is good, combined with herringbone PTFE packing combination, make the valve to achieve zero leakage.
-Two-piece, three-piece structure can adapt to a variety of different requirements of the pipeline system and working conditions, including three-piece ball valve allows the main valve body and two sides of the body separation, ensure rapid online replacement, maintenance.
- Q: Ok, I recent rebuilt a set of vortec heads, but the valves I got are a bit longer than stock, I believe .1 competition products pn I2552P. I also installed howards cam 98214 springs with 10° locks and retainers, the locks are +.035. I was just wondering if I would have enough spring pressure.
- These should be OK. Make sure you measure for a set of custom push rods for this setup. Also measure for valve to piston clearance with all of the aftermarket parts installed before you button it all up for the final time. Also check for coil bind. It would really really suck to bend all of the valves and push rods the first time you fire it up.
- Q: what are the factors should be know to select a control valve for specified application
- There are numerous articles online that address this question from choosing the correct size to the correct actuator. Here are just a few:
- Q: I am wondering if i can put a blow off Valve on my Crossfire and still get the same sound as if it had a turbo. the car is stock and i just got it so i do not know if it does have a turbo already. Can anyone help me with this.
- It does actually no longer something stable on your motor vehicle except you push 20 lbs of advance. it is going to truly make you run wealthy between shifts and could additionally provide you idle issues. our first improvements could be suspension. the vehicle handles properly inventory so getting better it will make the vehicle fell extraordinary. i'm assuming you're new to turbocharged automobiles so i might advise analyzing up on sites like I-club or NASIOC and learn as much as you may in the previous you initiate enhancing and blow your motor. It happens each and all the time so i'm no longer exaggerating.
- Q: Is there a devise to reverse the flow to a cylinder. Not the pump. But a inline flow deverter that would shift the flow from one side of the cylinder to the other at the end of the stroke automatically without a person interjecting.ie it extends fully then the flow reverses retracting it fully. Then the flow reverses, and it extends fully and so on.Preferably, with as little lag as possible during the transition.I want the pump to run constantly(not reversing) and the cylinder to run constantly. Do not worry about the heat generated.Would love something that ran off the main cylinder(like a secondary piston or valve that would opendivert flow at the end of the stroke) through linkage. But, I am open to electronics if need be. Further more want the return to be metered so that the push and pull forces will be the same(metered through a smaller opening to adjust for the rod).Thankyou
- That I know of, there is nothing you can buy to do this...it would have to be built into the cylinder. A steam train main piston and valving does exactly as you describe, but through a linkage. You could hook up a MAC manual cylinder reversing valve (below) to a bar attached to the piston rod with adjustable stops to shift the valve at each end of the stroke. No electricity or electronics required, just air. Check with Parker for same valve for hydrualics.
- Q: Can anyone recommend valve manufacturers who make a good electric high temperature valve. The temperature that I am looking at is 1600 F at 100 psi. It should be electric magnetism controled. Is there anybody know what is the highest temperature the valve can bear in the world?
- google 'inconnel valve' look for foundry equipment suppliers Can you valve the gas away from whatever is hot, or is your gas at 1600 F and 100 PSI ? If so, what are you using for piping ?
- Q: what's the function of a car valve???????????
- It is the stopper for the combustion chamber, the intake one lets stuff in and the exhaust one lets stuff out.
- Q: need a different pump for? Is this some improvement on the old valve?
- first off they are not new ;-) These two standards have been around a long time. valve stems come in two types, schaeder and presta. Now i sometimes get these mixed up but I think Presta is the narrower valve. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me ;-) Either way there are these two types. Here we are referring to width/diameter not length. the thicker valves are usually on mountain bikes, some comfort bikes. the thinner narrower valves are usually on road bikes, some cross bikes, the type with skinny tires. Most bike pumps these days whether floor pump to mini pump will work for *both* Schaeder and Presta. The valve end on your pump (unless it's a piece of c*^ from Wallmart) SHOULD simply unscrew, reverses and voila! You can now pump up the tires of your MTB and your road bike or help another rider out! Now, on to your actual question ;-) Sorry for the drift. the long valve stems have to do with Aero wheels. These are rims, usually carbon that are designed to be very narrow and literaly slice the wind for faster acceleration. these are usually road bike rims, the skinny tires. Examples of Aero rims would be like Rolf Elan. Because of the design of the aero rim a longer valve stem is needed or it would literaly be lost within the carbon rim. But you don't have to have aero rims to have a tube with a longer stem. The stems on most tires are available in long, short, medium. I like to have the length match, it's just an aesthetic thing. But the function is exactly the same and the difference in weight is negligable. So to sumarise if you have aero rims you *must* choose tubes with a longer valve stem. If you don't have aero rims you can use them if you like, doesn't really matter, it's all what you like. but you do not need a different pump.
- Q: I have a trumpet, but unintentionally dropped it. When I started playing, I noticed that the first valve was very sticky. Therefore, I decided to put some oil on it. Despite the oil helping a lot, the valves are still sticking a bit when I push them down, as the key still stays in the valve for a few second before coming up again. It could possibly have a slight dent, but when I opened the valve, I did not see any damage at all. Are there any suggestions? And if it is dented how much would it cost to repair it?
- I would wager there is no dent, but the valves aren't quite straight. They have to be straight. Don't know what it will cost to fix, they may have to be replaced.
- Q: How do you take out a valve stem?
- No. The cap just keeps dirt, debris and moisture out of the valve stem and core. If you remove the valve core (it screws out with a special tool) then yes, your tire will go flat in a big hurry. To remove the complete valve stem as a unit there is a tool that screws on to the end that you can use to rip it out of the wheel. A new stem has to then be inserted from inside the wheel requiring the tire to be dismounted.
- Q: anyone know .. if the 5.7L Hemi 2003 has a egr valve?
- egr valve is easy to locate, some are electric and some are mechanical, but anyways its somewhere on the intake with a metal tube coming from the manifold to it. hard to explain, and has like to vacuum lines hooked to it.
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Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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