J41F-16 fluorine plastic shut-off valve

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J41F-16fluorine plastic shut-off valve descriptions

J41F-16fluorine plastic shut-off valve, valve body made of carbon steel casting, valve rod and flow components are using steel skeleton outsourcing fluorine plastic, design for control the opening and closing of all kinds of strong corrosive medium, has strong corrosion resistance, high pressure resistance, high reliability, widely used in conveying all kinds of strong corrosive medium pipeline.

Applicable temperature:-20℃~120℃

Nominal diameter:（DN）25-150mm

Nominal pressure:（PN）1.6MPa

Testing experiment medium: Acids，bases，salts，solvents

2. Model sense

EX: J41F-16-100

- J: Globe ball valve code

- 4： Connection Type is flange

- 1： Structure type is floating straight-through

- F: Flow parts are fluorine plastic

-16: Nominal pressure 1.6MPa

-100: Nominal diameter is 100mm

3. Model and path

4. Features

1. Compact structure, flexible opening and closing, strong corrosion resistance, short travel distance (usually 1/4 nominal diameter) and so on.

2. Disc and stem design as one structure, to prevent the pressure fluctuation of the pipeline caused by the inner parts out of the valve body may be, compact structure, safe use.

Q: I have checked this and ensured that the flow control is turned on. I have also found that:1. Valve works in manual mode2. Solenoid is getting electricity and water seems to be flowing in automatic mode but nothing is coming out of the sprinkler.I am not sure what could be broken as manual operation works and solenoid sems to be working. Any ideas?Thanks.: Okay Sam, since your valve works in the manual mode then we can assume that there aren't any leaks downstream of the valve. You say that water seems to be flowing in the automatic mode but not coming out of the sprinkler. That is interesting, because if the water if flowing, then it has to go to the sprinklers just as it does when the valve is manually turned on. I have a feeling that if water is flowing through the valve in your automatic mode, then it is surely going to the sprinklers. But, if the valve is having a problem and isn't opening up all the way, then your sprinklers will not pop up and the water will just seep out from the heads, given enough time. This is likely the problem. And you say that the solenoid is getting voltage, however if the solenoid's seal is physically cracked, torn, or ruptured it could give you problems. If you have another similar valve that does work, try swapping solenoids. If the valve then works; replace the solenoid, but if the valve doesn't work then you may have to open up the valve and check for problems, such as a torn valve diaphragm. Below is a link to a file that shows how to open up and maintain a Toro jar top valve. One last thought, if the wiring to the valve is borderline bad, your solenoid may not be getting the appropriate needed voltage and current. Too small of wires, too long of a run, bad or wet connections to the solenoid, all are possible problems that could cause the solenoid not to work, or to weakly latch. I'm still thinking the first problem, but keep this in mind.

Q: I really like the sound that a blow-off valve makes when they are in audi tts. So I was wondering if I got one for my '02 225hp Audi tt if it would damage the engine in any way. I have read that diverter valves are better, but I want the sound of the blow-off valve. Also any recommendations on blow-off/diverter valves would be great.: Blow off valves are nice, but they aren't terribly good for your car. The main problem is that when the turbo isn't running, that open valve will suck unfiltered air into the engine and can seriously damage it. Blow offs are also pretty inefficient as you lose a good portion of the air in your turbo system. The best thing you can do is just get a good Forge diverter valve. Well made, looks nice, and will add a pretty decent amount of performance.

Q: my dad is going to go under heart valve replacement what are the chances of him surviving he is 58 years old and has copd: It depends a lot on which valve and why it's being replaced, but unless the COPD is very bad, the average chance that a 58yo man who does not have any other major medical problems will survive single-valve replacement surgery is better than 98% if the surgery is done by an experienced surgeon at a good hospital. The COPD will very likely mean that his post-operative recovery will be prolonged and difficult, but he should do fine.

Q: I'm drawing a complete diagram of the heart, but I'm unsure of the positions of the different valves. I know there are the pulmoary valve, the aortic valve, tricuspid/right AV, bicuspid/left AV, semilunar valves, mitral...but I know there are several names for some of them, like I think the mitral and the bicuspid are the same...but there are so many sources online I don't know which to believe. If anyone knows for absolute sure the right names and where they are it would be very appreciated if you could help :): There are 4 valves on the heart. Right atrium Left ventricle Left atrium Right ventricle. The atriums are the top of the heart...the more smaler ones and the ventricles are th larger ones which are below the atriums.

Q: I was told my 1995 chevy needs an idle air control valve. I know my idle is getting rougher so I may need this. What is the function of this valve and what would happen if I don't get it? Will a new valve smooth my idle? Anyone know if this valve is hard to install or not?: Iac Valve Function

Q: Help! I've got this leaky CPVC valve in a new plumbing setup for a water heater. It only drips when open. :( It's going to be a real pain to replace it. Is there any way to tighten this thing up? It looks like there is a plastic pop off panel on the knob for the valve but I'm not sure. Thanks for any help!: Turn off the main water to your house. Turn that valve to open. Then tighen the nut on it (slightly), see if the valve will close , if yes; then tighten it a little more, then see if the valve will close. If yes - that should do it. If the nut is so tight that the valve will not close, then loosen the nut just a tad. That should do it, ......... now, turn the valve off. Turn back on the main water to your house -- and see if that works.

Q: How are they different from other valves ?: Test valves are typically needle valves but I have seen some occasional usage of 1/4 to 1/2 inch globe valves and ball valves used as test valves for sampling. Pressure gauge installations may have test valves installed just below them. The valves are used to isolate the gauge from the system pressure, a second valve is used to vent the trapped pressure so the gauge could return to zero. The same vent valve could then be used to attach a calibrated pressure source to the pressure gauge so as to check (qualify) the gauge reading against the standard. This was done on select gauges where a quick in place qualification could be done without the need to physically remove the gauge from the gauge board. I have also seen test valve setups in systems using a three way valve in a setup to scavenge the sensing line with a clean fluid. This is done when dealing with a slurry which could block the sensing line suach as in a quick lime system. Clean water would flush the line before and after a reading so as to not trap material in the sensing line which could build up and block or cause a false reading. Test valve location also gives a handy mean to obtain a sample of the process fluid.

Q: I bought a Bb trumpet from Ebay (I know, probably not the best idea) and when it arrived it was really good, except the valves. They wouldn't go down (or up) really well, so I oiled them, and it helped, but it still won't go up properly (it might go up halfway, then suddenly stop, then go up slowly). The valves sound like they're scraping the side a little, and valve oil doesn't do much good. I don't know what brand it is, so don't ask. Another thing, is there such a thing as over-oiling?: The trumpet has to have the valve holes lined up with the trumpet air passageways in order to have your air proceed by the trumpet and characteristic a sound produce. Your valve must have an computerized locking mechanism (the small piece of plastic close to the spring). now and again this receives worn down, and the valve gained't line up wisely. To treatment this, you should locate the starting up turning position of the valve and tighten the valve starting up there. i imagine that is ninety degrees to the left at the same time as the bigger plastic piece is dealing with the mouthpiece aspect of the trumpet.

Q: does my 96 accord have an oriface valve or the other kind of valve? if so where is it? because im pretty sure that is the problem with my a/c not being cold at all: It uses an expansion valve inside the evaporator assembly, part 11 in the first source. If the evaporator valve is not working the compressor will be damaged - by no oil if the valve stays closed or by slugs of liquid spilling out of the evaporator if it sticks open. Fortunately, orifices and expansion valves are very reliable. I bet a standard A/C service (about $100) will get you cool again. If you do anything to disturb the refrigerant loop (trying to charge it at home, trying to change refrigerant system parts) you will only spend more... probably a lot more.