• High Quality Electro  Galvanized Iron Wire With High Quality System 1
High Quality Electro  Galvanized Iron Wire With High Quality

High Quality Electro Galvanized Iron Wire With High Quality

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
100 m.t./month

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Specifications

1.The lowest price
2.Have machine to produce
3.Materials test report
4.As customer's require
Silvery and soft binding wire

Galvanized metal wire

Material:  low carbon  steel

Surface  treatment:  galvanized


Gauge

SWG

BWG

Metric systems

8#

4.06

4.19

4.0

9#

3.66

3.76


10#

3.25

3.40

3.50

11#

2.95

3.05

3.00

12#

2.64

2.77

2.80

13#

2.34

2.41

2.50

14#

2.03

2.11


15#

1.83

1.83

1.80

16#

1.63

1.65

1.65

17#

1.42

1.47

1.40

18#

1.22

1.25

1.20

19#

1.02

1.07

1.00

20#

0.91

0.89

0.90

21#

0.81

0.813

0.80

22#

0.71

0.711

0.70


Q: What is the best brand of wire to use for getting power to my amp?
Monster cable 10 awg
Q: I have a new light fixture I am trying to install. The electrical box has two sets of black and white wires coming in. Both of the black wires are connected together while the white wires from either set were used to connect the old fixture. How should I wire in the new fixture. The switch for this light has only one set of black and white wires connected to the light switch.
Possibly the box was wired using 2-conductor romex as a switch leg. That means one of the blacks is the power into the fixture box. It connects to the other black that goes to the switch. From the switch, the white is used to feed power back to the fixture. Hence you have one white that is neutral and one that is energized. This is not your fault but is 100% wrong, against code and is dangerous for someone like you that is trying to figure out what was done. Switch legs are accomplished using three conductors; one red, one black and one white. Use a current tester and see if you have one white that is hot and one that is neutral. If so, use a black magic marker and color the hot white one black. Do the same where it attaches to the switch.
Q: Consider a copper wire 1 mm in diameter providing the power needed to run an appliance drawing a 4.8 kW at 12 V. Assuming that no heat is radiated away from the wire while the current flows:A. What will the temperature of the wire be after the current has run for 1 second through the wire?B. What will the physical condition of the wire be at that time?(The wire was initially at 20 degrees C)
Assume the wire is 1 meter long. Resistance of a wire in Ω R = ρL/A ρ is resistivity of the material in Ω-m L is length in meters A is cross-sectional area in m? A = πr?, r is radius of wire in m resistivity Cu 17.2e-9 Ω-m or 17.2e-6 ohm-mm R = (17.2e-6)(1000) / π(0.5)? = 0.022 ohms Appliance current is 4800/12 = 400 amps Power is I?R = 400? x .022 = 3520 watts. Problem, this power is at a level almost as high as that of the appliance. In other words, the wire is too thin to sustain that power level. .
Q: I have a set of pilot wi-200 strobe lights and they have three wires and i want to hook them up to a optx headlight strobe control module the wires are gray white and black can you tell me where to hook them
I wouldn't try it. The gray, white, and black wires are the high voltage strobe wires. The control module changes the patterns before the voltage is increased. There is nothing you can do here.
Q: US electrical tech question from a non electrically minded fag. I have a dimmer controlling a light and a single light switch controlling a fan. There is one blue wire going to the dimmer and one blue wire going to the switch. There is one black wire going to a 2nd terminal on the switch, which is also connected to a 2nd wire leading to the 2nd terminal on the dimmer. Now tell me how to wire an outlet into this ******* mess.Inb4 op is a fag, inb4 op should post this somewhere else, inb4 turn the power on and touch the wires, inb4 op can't inb4
From the sounds of your description, you are in the UK or a country where they use UK wireing system and standards. If ythis so and by outlet you mean a receptacle, then you do not wire an outlet to the lighting circuit. Receptacles are wired on separate circuits only meant for receptacles. Take CRISDRUMCHICK's advice, hire a reputable, qualified electrician. You do not know enough to do the job safely. Inb4 op is a fag, inb4 op should post this somewhere else, inb4 turn the power on and touch the wires, inb4 op can't inb4 - What is this nonsense? It looks and is degrading and uncalled for in Yahoo Answers.
Q: what if I use a 100 amps.main braker to wire my range and dryer
NO each appliance has to be wired to the panel on its own breaker Dryers is normally # 10 wire and on a 30 amp 2 pole breaker. Three wire receptacles can still be used if they are existing in older homes and the appliance has to be wired for that 3 wire receptacle.Newer dryers have 4 wires and have a separate ground unlike the older dryers that used the neutral wire and ground together. A range can be # 4 wire or in some case # 6 wire depending on the KW rating of the range and have to have a 40 or 50 amp breaker on them as well. You should not put them together of course. Call an electrician and have ot done properly and it could save you form a heartache or worse.
Q: I am trying to test a engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT), and in one of the tests it states quot;connect the terminals of the electrical connector with a jumper wirequot;. Where can I find a jumper wire? Does it has to be an specific gauge or any jumper wire? please helpd
mokeyboy is correct about a jumper wire, now comes the ck of the sensor if its a single wire sensor some times called a thermal transmitter, grounding that wire will cause the temp gauge to read high, now if its two wire sensor for fuel injection that should not be grounded, but the sensor must be ck'd with a ohms meter
Q: I am trying to take 4 lights in the basement that currently all have to be turned on independently and wire them all in series to a single switch. I just took the wires and put them to the switch and then to the first light. it came on but when i held the silver metal shielding piece that houses the wires, I got a tingle. I think that would mean I need to connect the third wire. The grounding one. The light did come on which I think means I had the pos and neg connected right. Where do I connect the ground wire and what caused the tingle? by ground wire I mean the third wire that is nothing but copper. I think I just put it to the case or the light or whatever looks like a good spot to get grounded. any extra knowledge or advice is a big help! In the mean time I will be searching the web for how to's.
The guy above me helpful, but you have an existing problem with the wires shocking you. No doubt you can run the series yourself, but don't monkey around and burn your house down by trying to save the cash on this DIY. Get someone to find the short and fix it. DIY the next job. BTW purchase the Black and Decker Advanced Home Wiring book. It has color pics and shows you the layouts of several ways to do stuff. By the way, if your name is Bob Villa my wife is looking for you to marry her. LOL.
Q: my questions is what wires go where. i just bought a Hunter thermostat model # 44155c. on my old thermostat the wires are as followes:W2-jumps to quot;F(Yellow Wire)F-Yellow WireO/B-Light Green WireR-Red WireG-Dark GreenC-Red Wire Y-Yellow WireMy new thermostat has these options:RH, RC, G, Y/O, W/B, Y1can anyone tell me what wires go where?thank you
Well, unfortunately, this particular Hunter model isn't well-designed for operating heat pumps, which is what I'm assuming you've got, since you've got a W2 (aux heat) wire and and O/B (compressor reversal) wire. Still, you can sorta get it to work, but it might take some trial and error, when it comes to the O/B wire, as I'll explain in a minute. Here's the connections you should make: RH - 24VAC hot - connect to R wire RC - 24VAC cool - Jumper this to the RH connector G - Fan - connect to G wire Y - Compressor - connect to Y1 The O/B wire should connect to EITHER the Y/O or W/B, depending on your heat pump. If the reversing valve of the pump is supposed to operate when it heating mode, then you connect to the W/B terminal. If the reversing valve operates in cooling mode, you connect to the Y/O terminal. The other wires should be taped off with electrical tape and left disconnected. These wires are: W2 - auxiliary heat control - leave disconnected (your thermostat can't activate auxiliary heat) F - not sure what this is, to be honest; it might be for controlling a thermostat system check LED C - 24VAC common. Your thermostat doesn't need it.
Q: I noticed when looking at the wiring sticking out of the end of one of my laptop power cables (the end that enters the battery), that of the green, grey and pink cables there, the green one had snapped. However, my laptop power still works fine, so what does that green wire do exactly?? Is it dangerous to use it even with that wire snapped?
Power requires two wires, but a third wire called a ground wire is sometimes added. Usually the plug that goes into the wall has two or three prongs. If it has two prongs, no ground wire added. If it has three prongs, the ground wire is added. The ground is usually used when metal frames or cases are used. The purpose is to ground or short out the live (hot) wire should it accidentally come into contact with the metal frame, causing the circuit breaker to trip. If the ground wire was not there, it would allow a person to get shocked should they touch the metal frame.

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