Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB) System 1

Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Products Overview of Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

Our FSB type fluoroplastic alloy chemical pump, can be under - 80-150 degrees temperature conditions, long-term conveying any concentration of all sorts of acid, alkali, salt, strong oxidizer etc. And its body and flow-passing parts are made of F46 fluorine alloy, it combines the advantage of many fluorine plastic, with particularly strong corrosion resistance, and with high mechanical strength, not aging, no toxin decomposition. This product is with reasonable design, compact structure, reliable performance, convenient operation and maintenance, high efficiency, and energy conservation.

Pump Shaft Seal of Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

FSB type fluoroplastic alloy centrifugal pump adopts the advanced outside-fitted bellows mechanical seal, with multilayer protection and prolong the service life. For conveying with impurities particle medium, can use waterless cooling single seal face (carborundum material) mechanical seal, so medium solid content should be considered when selection.

Design Features of Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

FSB type fluoroplastic alloy centrifugal pump flow components adopt fluoroplastic alloy material, compact structure, simple operation, low price. The pump body, impeller, pump cover, mechanical seal parts can changed with FSB (D) type direct coupled fluorine alloy centrifugal pump, it is widely accepted by our customers.

Technical data of Fluoroplastic Anticorrosion Chemical Pump (FSB)

Type	Flow m3/h	Head m	Caliber mm		Power kw		Speed r/min	(NPSH)r m	Efficiency %
Type	Flow m3/h	Head m	Import	Export	Shaft power	Motor Power	Speed r/min	(NPSH)r m	Efficiency %
25FSB-10	1.5	10	25	20		1.5	2900	4	25
25FSB-18	3.6	18	25	20		2.2	2900	4	27
40FSB-15	5	15	40	32		3	2900	4	40
50FSB-25	12.5	25	50	32	2.0	3	2900	2	43
65FSB-32	25	32	65	50	4.8	5.5	2900	2	45
80FSB-20	50	20	80	65	4.7	5.5	2900	3	45
80FSB-25	42	25	80	65	5.7	7.5	2900	3	40
80FSB-30	50	30	80	65	6.9	7.5	2900	3.5	59
80FSB-40	45	40	80	50	10.2	11	2900	3.5	48
80FSB-50	50	50	80	50	11.9	15	2900	3.5	57
80FSB-55	50	55	80	50	18.5	18.5	2900	4	50
100FSB-32	100	32	100	80	11.9	15	2900	3.5	68

Q: I have a 2005 Impala and it has been acting funny. Some morning the heat takes about 20 minutes to start working. The air conditoner has not came on once. The gage also takes awhile to start working and when it does it goes pass the halfway mark.I even notice when im sitting at a red light, i can feel the engine shaking a little. I have a appt to get it check and put on the machine tomorrow. I just want to go there with an idea of what the problem could be. Could this be a thermostat or water pump problem???? Help?: Do you see any leaks the Front of the Engine or Radiator Area? is the Coolant Mixture Correct? Low Cost, Replace the Thermostat. From the Shaking you could also be in need of a Good Tune-Up? Also after all that shaking you might want to check the motor Mounts to make sure they haven't Cracked.

Q: I would like to ask the river for about 70 degrees on the steep slope pumping 170 meters, flat 40 meters into the pool, what should I choose water pump? How many heads? How to choose the water pump model? Thank you: Pump selection parameter:1, lift, if the head is large, the use of multi-stage vertical centrifugal pump, if the head is small, the use of horizontal axial flow centrifugal pump2. Displacement3, suction stroke, if the suction range is short, select the submersible pump, suction distance, select centrifugal pump

Q: I was wonder if there is a water pump in the out drive, my boat is overheating we are think it could have something to do with the water pump: So far the only other answer is dead wrong. Your Bayliner has a raw water pump mounted inside the boat. Depending on HP it might be on the front of the crankshaft, or opposite the alternator on the AQ120-140 motors. Then there is a second water pump, which circulates the water through the block. There is no 3rd water pump. None of the Volvo engines have a water pump in the stern drive. I repeat none! The Raw water pump is a rubber impeller. The Thermostat can also be blocked and cause overheating. In some cases it's actually rust/crud that block the exhaust elbows which in turn blocks flow. If you run it on a flush attachment you might be able to check blockages by the amount of water exhausted from the transom/drive. You can edit your question with your specific engine. It takes 7 to 10 min to replace the water pump impeller. You do not have to prime the water pump....ever. Do not however run with out water. Either being in the lake,Bay. ocean, or using the correct flush attachment.

Q: I was wondering if water pumps make any noise when they are submersed? Also, my pond is quite small and I don't want to scare my fish with a noisy pump. Thank you!: i've got efficiently used that pump for ten years, recirculating water interior a fountain. it quite is not submerged and is thoroughly silent as long as you do no longer permit debris accrue on the impeller section. I double filter out the water earlier it is going into the pump. that's wiped sparkling via unscrewing the bleed-valve on the top and letting the debris be cleared. you could take it aside there, too, yet take care re-assembling because of the fact the o-ring is comfortable.

Q: What is the difference between a High Flow Water Pump, Heavy Duty Water Pump or and Electrical Water Pump for a street rod? I have a 77 Camaro with around 410hp with the factory A/C. The Camaro is stock as body, frame and interior. I want to enjoy the car vs racing it. I would like to go on trips to visit family out of town which is around 300 miles and be able to drive the car with out having over heating problems.: the key to keeping a car cool isn't the size of rad but water flow and air flow.elec.are for race cars and cubic dollar cars stock works for me or aftermarket high flow.and good fan that pushes allot of air.

Q: I was driving when my temp gauge shot up all the way so i pulled off the next exit and my car shut off and started smoking i noticed the water pump belt was in shreds and what seemed to be anti freeze fluid and water was everywhere. I'm curious what could have broke maybe a gasket or the waterpump it's self besides just the belt?: It seems to be a water pump failure, unfortunately that kind of failure is unpredictable and can easily sneak up on you. What happens is the pump fails and then the belt gets literally gets burnt off, this issue can be a cascade failure because the excessive engine heat can cause a number of COSTLY internal engine problems because aluminum engine blocks these days can't handle prolonged excessive heat. Hopefully not in your case, but just to give you an idea of the issue and everything surrounding it. The cost to repair at a shop can run anywhere from 200$ to 600$ depending on where you take it, you can do it yourself if you are mechanically inclined but i suggest a professional because they can also further detect any damage that the pump failure may have caused.

Q: Is the pump lift horizontal or vertical?: A vertical, vertical lift is one meter (see environment), usually 5~10 times the horizontal distance

Q: 4--6 inch deep well pump head? How much per hour out of water?.: Best answerLift pump is the location of the outlet is high, such as wells 5 meters deep, you put the pumping pipe on the bottom, the pump is placed in the vicinity of well, then, the head is 5 meters, the water power how much you buy depends on the pump, the greater the power, the faster the water pumping. The greater the party...

Q: I have 2000 ford ranger v6 3.0 I replaced the water pump ten months ago and all of a sudden it's running hot it only runs hot when I stop for a second at a red light or stop sign. I changed the radiator today but still is running hot. The top radiato hose going to the thermostat housing is building a lot of pressure and the water is bubbling in the reservoir what could be wrong? And I took the thermostat out last week: You're looking for an answer that may be hard to find. Have to assume the water pump and radiator are good. But there's a lot more to the cooling system. You could have one or more issues. For one, we don't know how well the water pump is spinning or if you changed the pulley so it's spinning slower. You have coolant channels in the block that go through the head gasket into the head. In a 12-year-old car, these channels could be partially blocked with crud and sludge. Stop buying parts and take your car to a good radiator shop. Possibly all you need is a good chemical flush to get rid of the sludge. For starters, turn on the heater which might keep the temperature in the operating range, but get some help from a radiator shop. ... Good luck!!

Q: My well water pump runs constantly. The manual says it should kick off at 50 psi, it only gets to 48 (moves to 45 rather quickly, slow to 48). Water isn't an issue. Turned off all water to house, and still gets to 48, so I believe I can exclude leak somewhere in the house.One place I called said it could be a bit of grit in the jet pump when I called. This seems like it could cost big bucks. Could I suggest for the service man to check anything else?: I had the same problem with this in my home and I fixed it by simply adding air to my pressure tank. where your well line comes in there you should have a water softener and filters and a tank for holding pressure in the lines. shut off the water to the house and start filling the tank with air until you get to around 46 PSI once that's done turn the house water back on. It should take a lot longer for the pump to kick on now. It's pretty easy and I would definitely try to do it yourself first before calling a repair man out. It'll save you a few bucks!

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