• Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable System 1
  • Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable System 2
  • Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable System 3
Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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Factory Price High Quality PVC sheathed XLPE insulated power cable

1The cable is made of copper line with PVC insulated, and PVC/XLPE sheathed, the cable of the wire is strand. The voltage is 600/1000V; the color of the cable can be any color as your need. The cable is widely used in construction, industry and other sites, the cable can be used overhead, underground.

2. Certificates of the cable: ISO, CE, RoHS, CCC.

3. More related products:

Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

4. Products list and parameter

                

No.

Size

Specification

Length per roll

PVC insulated non-sheathed copper wires BV (450-750 Voltage)

1

1.5 mm2

1×1.38 mm2

100 m

2

2.5 mm2

1×1.78 mm2

100 m

3

4 mm2

1×2.25 mm2

100 m

4

6 mm2

1×2.76 mm2

100 m

5

10 mm2

7×1.35 mm2

100 m

6

16 mm2

7×1.70 mm2

100 m

7

25 mm2

7×2.14 mm2

100 m

PVC insulated PVC/XLPE sheathed Twin cables with/without earth

BVVB (300-500 Voltage)

8

2×1 +1 mm2

2×1.13 +1.13 mm2

100 m

9

2×1.5 +1 mm2

2×1.38 +1.13 mm2

100 m

10

2×2.5 +1.5 mm2

2×1.78 +1.38 mm2

100 m

11

2×4 +2.5 mm2

2×2.25 +1.78 mm2

100 m

12

2×6 +4 mm2

2×2.76 +2.25 mm2

100 m

13

2×10+4 mm2

2×7×1.35 +2.25 mm2

100 m

14

2×16+6 mm2

2×7×1.70 +2.76 mm2

100 m

PVC insulated non-sheathed Multi flexible wires BVR (450-750 Voltage)

15

1.5 mm2

7×0.52 mm2

100 m

16

2.5 mm2

19×0.41 mm2

100 m

17

4 mm2

19×0.52 mm2

100 m

18

6 mm2

19×0.63 mm2

100 m

19

10 mm2

49×0.52 mm2

100 m

20

16 mm2

49×0.63 mm2

100 m

PVC insulated PVC/XLPE sheathed copper cables (Lower than 1000 Voltage)

No.

Size

Specification

21

3×2.5 mm2

3×1.78 mm2

22

3×4 mm2

3×2.25 mm2

23

3×4+1×2.5 mm2

3×2.25+1×1.78 mm2

24

3×4+2×2.5 mm2

3×2.25+2×1.78 mm2

25

3×6 mm2

3×2.76 mm2

26

3×6+1×4 mm2

3×2.76+1×2.25 mm2

27

3×6+2×4 mm2

3×2.76+2×2.25 mm2

28

3×10 mm2

3×7×1.35 mm2

29

3×10+1×6 mm2

3×7×1.35+1×2.76 mm2

30

3×10+2×6 mm2

3×7×1.35+2×2.76 mm2

31

3×16 mm2

3×7×1.70 mm2

32

3×16+1×10 mm2

3×7×1.70+1×7×1.35 mm2

33

3×16+2×10 mm2

3×7×1.70+2×7×1.35 mm2

34

3×25+1×16 mm2

3×7×2.14+1×7×1.70 mm2

35

3×25+2×16 mm2

3×7×2.14+2×7×1.70 mm2

36

3×35+1×16 mm2

3×7×2.52+1×7×1.70 mm2

37

3×35+2×16 mm2

3×7×2.52+2×7×1.70 mm2

38

3×50+1×25 mm2

3×10×2.52+1×7×2.14 mm2

39

3×50+2×25 mm2

3×10×2.52+2×7×2.14 mm2

40

3×70+1×35 mm2

3×14×2.52+1×7×2.52 mm2

41

3×70+2×35 mm2

3×14×2.52+2×7×2.52 mm2

42

3×95+1×50 mm2

3×19×2.52+1×10×2.52 mm2

43

3×95+2×50 mm2

3×19×2.52+2×10×2.52 mm2

44

3×120+1×70 mm2

3×24×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

45

3×120+2×70 mm2

3×24×2.52+2×14×2.52 mm2

46

3×150+1×70 mm2

3×30×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

47

3×150+2×70 mm2

3×30×2.52+2×14×2.52 mm2

48

3×185+1×95 mm2

3×37×2.52+1×19×2.52 mm2

49

3×185+2×95 mm2

3×37×2.52+2×19×2.52 mm2

50

4×2.5 mm2

4×1.78 mm2

51

4×4 mm2

4×2.25 mm2

52

4×4+1×2.5 mm2

4×2.25+1×1.78 mm2

53

4×6 mm2

4×2.76 mm2

54

4×6+1×4 mm2

4×2.76+1×2.25 mm2

55

4×10 mm2

4×7×1.35 mm2

56

4×10+1×6 mm2

4×7×1.35+1×2.76 mm2

57

4×16 mm2

4×7×1.70 mm2

58

4×16+1×10 mm2

4×7×1.70+1×7×1.35 mm2

59

4×25 mm2

4×7×2.14 mm2

60

4×25+1×16 mm2

4×7×2.14+1×7×1.70 mm2

61

4×35 mm2

4×7×2.52 mm2

62

4×35+1×16 mm2

4×7×2.52+1×7×1.70 mm2

63

4×50 mm2

4×10×2.52 mm2

64

4×50+1×25 mm2

4×10×2.52+1×7×2.14 mm2

65

4×70 mm2

4×14×2.52 mm2

66

4×70+1×35 mm2

4×14×2.52+1×7×2.52 mm2

67

4×95 mm2

4×19×2.52 mm2

68

4×95+1×50 mm2

4×19×2.52+1×10×2.52 mm2

69

4×120 mm2

4×24×2.52 mm2

70

4×120+1×70 mm2

4×24×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

71

4×150 mm2

4×30×2.52 mm2

72

4×150+1×70 mm2

4×30×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

73

4×185 mm2

4×37×2.52 mm2

74

4×185+1×95 mm2

4×37×2.52+1×19×2.52 mm2

75

5×2.5 mm2

5×1.78 mm2

76

5×4 mm2

5×2.25 mm2

77

5×6 mm2

5×2.76 mm2

78

5×10 mm2

5×7×1.35 mm2

79

5×16 mm2

5×7×1.70 mm2

80

5×25 mm2

5×7×2.14 mm2

81

5×35 mm2

5×7×2.52 mm2

82

5×50 mm2

5×10×2.52 mm2

83

5×70 mm2

5×14×2.52 mm2

84

5×95 mm2

5×19×2.52 mm2

85

5×120 mm2

5×24×2.52 mm2

86

5×150 mm2

5×30×2.52 mm2

87

5×185 mm2

5×37×2.52 mm2

 

5. Package: mainly the cables are packed in steel-wooden drum, the length is on the size and weight, but also the cables can be packed as your demand.

Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

Flexible Pure Copper rubber insulated rubber sheathed power cable

7. The workshop

Looking forward to co-operate with you!





Q: My power supply has one cable with 3 sata connectors on it. Can I connect my disc drive and hard drive on the one cable? My PSU also has a cable with 3 four pin molex connectors on it and my case has 3 fans. Can I connect all my fans to that one cable with all the molex connectors on it?
Yes to both questions. It doesn't matter whether you're connecting only harddrives to that cable or only diskdrives (aside from the fact that these are usually located a little apart from each other.) You can combine both and they will work. As for fans... If they have the molex connectors rather than standard 3-pin fan connectors, you can connect them for sure. Depending on what power supply you have, you'll probably have anywhere from 18-30amp on your 12v molex rail. Harddrives will take under 2amp, and depending on what fans you have, they'll use anywhere 0.5-3amp, so even if you have 3 extremely powerful fans drawing 3amp each (3 x 3amp = 9amp), you can safely connect 6 of such monster fans to that 12v molex rail. To be honest, I haven't met too many of such fans - most standard 120mm fans, even with leds, will use no more than 1.5amp. 80mm fans non-led fans will use about 0.3-0.5 amp. If you have a very powerful psu with 30amp on 12v rail and hundred of 80mm fans, in theory you can run all of them. In practice, I'd like to see that :)
Q: How high voltage armored power cable is grounded
Insulated isolation of the double shield control cable is the outermost armor layer should be grounded at both ends, the inner shield one end of the ground, is conducive to the rapid release of induced current.
Q: Copper core power cable laying cable sets what fixed
A fiber into the machine room, advanced ODF fiber wiring box, and then through the pigtail to SDH photoelectric conversion into electrical signals, and then through the 2M line in the DDF frame (DDF frame is a transfer), and then to the BTS
Q: Cable yjv-0.6 / 1kv-4 * 120 + 1 * 70 What does it mean?
Cable trench as a power construction project should be cable trench construction construction design, cable trench construction program, according to the previous design requirements and programs in order to develop cable trench construction quality acceptance procedures
Q: Right now, the cables behind my audio receiver are tangled beyond recognition. I need to organize them...How should I bundle my speaker wire to minimize RF and EM interference? I've heard that a quot;8-shapedbundle is good.Is there any truth to this claim? If so, explain.Thanks in advance!
Keep power cables separate from Line Level cables(inputs, record outputs) and speaker cables away from Line Level cables. In other words keep the different types of cables away from each other. This also goes for FM antennas separate them all as well as possible. If you have HUM, you most likely have a cable that has a compromised (bad or going bad) Ground or loose connector. Bundling wires, even the same kind CAN induce hum, as it turnes it cable bundle into a coil (like a Guitar Pick-up). Try buying several extra good quality cables of each type, and switch them out one at a time, and you may find that one or more cable is compromised and is causing the trouble and throw it away! Make sure that the outlet the system is plugged into has a Good quality Surge Protector! not just an outlet strip< Make sure the circuit that is being used to power the system is not also carrying lights with dimmers, florescent lights, or any thing other than sound equipment. LIGHTS MOTORS CAUSE HUM! Also make sure that your not using several circuits to power several INTERCONNECTED items! ie: VCR, DVD, CD, PHONO on one circuit, and Receiver, TV, Cable Box on another (GROUND LOOP). Many times a moderately expensive Surge Protector will solve hum in a sound system(not a $10.00 one, but maybe $25.00 and up) I use a TRIPPLITE that cost more than $200.00, but it has been well worth it! ( I have a $50,000.00 studio sound system), as it not only filters noise that comes down the line, but it protects from surges spikes. (Duke Power calls them LINE VARIATIONS), but they will burn up delicate electronics in a heartbeat! If your wires are bundled, it will be hard to clean up the mess and noise! Even sharp bends in wires and cables will degrade the performance of even the best system, and make change outs (new DVD player) hatefull as well as put extra strain on the rest of the wires. and they wonder why they failed.
Q: How would I go about stripping 4 gauge power battery cable for my amp? oh and how would i screw the fuse holder down? with what kind of screws? thank you!
I use a knife to strip that wire, just be careful not to nick the wire. Drill a hole and use sheet metal screws to screw the fuse holder down.
Q: I recently switched to cable tv ,internet telephone. i now have 2 tv converter boxes + modem box(?) on 24/7. i did not have that equipment before.my electric use is up 1.5 kw a day vs last year since the change. at first i blamed it on a warmer summer. but the last few weeks have been mild and the new bill today is still higher.did changing and the new equipment cause the extra electric use ?
look at the back of each device. it will show you a current rating and usage, exmple 45 watts. Add em up Whats strange is that they draw power even when turned off.some even more when off. use a power strip with an on off switch so you can turn them all off when not in use. Turn them all on watch your electric meter spin. Unplug them and watch it spin. The difference is your savings.
Q: Can I do the big 3 upgrade by only doing the 2 ground cables(battery to chassis and engine block to chassis) now and doing the power to the alternator at another time? Will this give me a little performance boost until I can get enough material?
Yes, that is fine. That is what i did in my car because it was a pain to get to the alt and i had a new one on the way. My voltage was dropping to around 13 volts before i upgraded the two grounds and after it never dropped much past 13.5. It is more of a problem to upgrade power cable and not the grounds, not to upgrade grounds and not power.
Q: Someone gave me a KDSusa LCD monitor. It doesn't have the usual spot on the back of it for me to plug in a power cable. I've never seen a monitor without the power cord plug in the back. There's a hole/plug on the side of the blue part that goes into the computer...I thought maybe that's where a some sort of power cord would go but I'm not sure. HELP!
check the site for your model screen to find the right power supply.
Q: So I was replacing the processor in my Laptop (Inspiron M5030) and I accidentally puled apart the cable connected to the power button. I couldn't see a clear way to connect it back, and I was wondering if there was any way I could do it myself or would I have to buy a new part?It's not the end you plug into the computer itself, it's attached to the end that's screwed into the computer.
Hope this helps. Regards, GauravS

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