• Usg Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Tegular Edge Ceiling Hot Sale System 1
  • Usg Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Tegular Edge Ceiling Hot Sale System 2
  • Usg Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Tegular Edge Ceiling Hot Sale System 3
Usg Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Tegular Edge Ceiling Hot Sale

Usg Fiberglass Ceiling Tiles - Acoustic Tegular Edge Ceiling Hot Sale

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The panels are udes widely in schools, offices, music studios, lecture theatres,
multi purpose halls, interview rooms, training areas and cinemas. They meet the
requirements of BB93 of Building Regulations for acoustics in school buildings and
are Class O fire rated hence meeting the Fire Regulations as well.

 

Product Advantages:

 

Saves headroom space because exceptional noise absorption effectiveness is achieved by low (30mm) material thickness.

Surfaces can be emulsion painted to any colour without significant loss in noise
absorption. Increase savings due to fast and easy installation.Lightweight and therefore are ideal for adhering to ceilings, which do not have a very high load bearing capabilities.

Meets BB93 standards for school acoustics as well as common areas in flats for Building
Regulations.

Reinforced edges for increased durability.

 

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 95% at  40c, no sagging, wrapping, or delaminating

Moisture rete:<1% (JC/T670-2005)

Enviromental impact: Tiles and packing are fully recyclable

Product Specifications:

White Square Fiberglass Reinforced Ceiling

FAQ:

Question 1: Where is your factories?

Our factories in different areas of China, such as Shandong Province, Hebei Province, etc.

Question 2: May I get some samples of the product?

Yes, of course. If you need, we could sent you the small samples by the reliable delivery company such as DHL etc.

 

Images:

Q: The main purpose of glass fiber
The roving used for glass fiber reinforced plastic for jetting is required to have the following properties: (1) good cutting property, and less static electricity during continuous high-speed cutting; (2) the efficiency of dispersing the raw yarn after twisting the roving , That is, the beam splitting rate is high, usually require more than 90%; ③ chopped after the original wire with excellent cover, can cover the mold in every corner; ④ resin soaked fast, easy to roll flat and easy to drive bubbles ; ⑤ original barrel to improve the performance of good, coarse yarn density uniformity, suitable for a variety of spray gun and fiber delivery system. Spraying with roving is made of multi-stranded wire system, each strand contains 200 glass fiber monofilament.
Q: I'm afraid that joint compound might not adhere well to plywood.
It will stick just fine. I have painted wood paneling this way too...by taping all the seams just like you would dry wall, and filling the grooves as well. Once it is sanded and painted it looks just like drywall.
Q: Hello, our house has a big crack in the ceiling running from on wall to the other ( only about 3 feet cause its a entrance way) and I was wondering if there is anyway to fix it properly? We will be selling the home in a year and don't want it to scare anyone off BUT also don't want to just paint over it ( may get sued for concealing a problem). Any ideas or thoughts? Are we screwed and may have to leave it and the house won't sell as fast?:(
All houses settle - sometimes the contractors screw up and the rock is not attached well causing a seam to sag. Or maybe there is a leak from overhead plumbing. In any case it is not expensive to rip a small section of wall down inspect the area and put new sheetrock up. I strongly suggest you do this not only for your own peace of mind but cosmetically. Then fix the area and plaster and paint.
Q: There are a lot of wires and tubing between the joists and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to work the insulation around them or just lay the stuff over it. Seems like if there was a problem with the water or electricity, finding the wires and such would become a problem with them tucked under the insulation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
one thing you didnt mention is why you want to insulate a basement ceiling. i can understand if its for sound abaitment but insulating a basement ceiling isnt really necessary (unless ofcourse its required by local code). in answer to your question, you tuck the insulation around wires and piple by pulling the insulation apart. compressing the insulation against wires and pipes compromises its effectiveness. heres what i would do. instead of fiber glass insulation use what is called sound board (it has thermal qualitys as well) and then sheet rock over that. sound board (it used to be call celetex back in the day) is available at home depot and most lumber yards.
Q: I am doing some minor remodeling on a house. I wanted texture on the walls but didn't want to deal with the mess (and expertise required) of spray texture, so I'm creating a custom texture on the walls by hand using lite joint compound and a 12&amp;quot; taping knife. My question is: what do I do on the ceilings? Can I do the same thing on the walls, or will I kill my back (especially if it needs sanding). I've heard of people wrapping a small piece of plywood in plastic and using it to apply joint compound to the ceiling such that it creates little stalactites that you knock down after they have hardened slightly. That sounds difficult to get uniform across the entire ceiling.What should I do?
Wow, that's really out of style now, and a big project that is very hard or impossible to change down the road. But hey, you have your own style, thats just my opinion. If you really want to go through with this, DO NOT use joint compound!! It's not designed for this and will crack over time, especially from the lightest bumps that walls sustain, plus houses do move a tiny bit from expansion, contraction, humidity, and settling. This will surely crack the joint compound. I would use a texture thats designed for this, and its more like a plaster, much harder. They sell these special texture mixes at most paint stores and design stores, and also sell different applicators, from sponge applicators that you dab, to grooved spreaders that you swirl. You could always try using regular paint with different texture-like results, that aren't permanent if you change your mind years from now. You can sponge a colored paint to look cool, and they sell special rollers that give a texture pattern.
Q: How to conduct a comprehensive review of self-leveling
Self-leveling construction should pay attention to the three elements: ① humidity: ground moisture content should be less than 3% (self-leveling manufacturers require to keep the soil surface dry). Use CCM moisture tester. ② surface hardness: with a sharp chisel fast cross cut the surface, the intersection should not be burst. Use a hardness characterizer. ③ surface flatness: with 2 m ruler test, the gap should not be greater than 2mm. Use the flatness tester.
Q: need a ceiling ladder storage rack that can hold a 28 ft. fibreglass ladder?
Are you asking me if I need a ladder rack? Or are you wondering what to use to hold a fiberglass ladder to the ceiling? Option 2) you could use 2 giant hooks that screw into the ceiling, and that should be sufficient. However: since those ladders are a bit heavy, why not do yourself a favor and store it horizontally on a couple hooks near the bottom of the wall instead? It's a lot more convenient that way, and safer for everyone concerned.
Q: What is zero energy building
Self-sufficiency, the use of hydropower air conditioning with their own garbage generated by the re-use of energy, or the use of solar energy,
Q: What is the specific waterproofing of the bathroom? How much is the height of the wall As well as craftsmanship?
Polyurethane waterproof coating general approach is as follows: 1, the ground to the direction of the ground to find slope, cement mortar or bean concrete can be, but the surface to be flat. Near the door slope is small, the gap near the slope, according to the specific situation to master. 2, the pipeline to wear the floor of the root, to strengthen the waterproof. Tube root construction seal seal, cement smoothing foot protection, brush waterproof coating when the paste from the wire to strengthen the layer 1 to 2 layers. The same measures around the floor drain. 3, the wall to deal with clean plain light without floating ash, small particles, wall ground junction to wipe the original angle or slope angle. Brush waterproof coating when the glass cloth to strengthen the layer 1 to 2 layers. 4, the total thickness of polyurethane waterproof coating requires more than 1.5 mm. Can not rely on the number of decisions. Root, corner reinforcement layer at the first brush, room temperature 4h dry, and then a large area of ??brushing, Tu scraping. There is no leakage scraping, bubbling phenomenon. Large area brushing 24h curing after brushing the next layer. 5, first brushing the facade after brushing the plane, the next brushing direction and the vertical again. The last time the film semi-curing, throwing coarse sand particles, easy to combine with the cement mortar in the future. 6, the ground waterproof layer should be painted out of the bathroom door outside the 300 wide. Waterproof surface waterproof layer should be higher than the ground 200, a shower bathroom wall waterproof layer should be higher than the ground 1800 (L8 recommended full wall waterproof).
Q: What type of contractor would be able to remove the insulation from the crawlspace ceiling and put it against the outside wall where it would actually be useful?
The insulation isn't making your floor cold, the weather is. And by code, your exterior walls are already insulated.

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