• ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage System 1
  • ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage System 2
  • ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage System 3
ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage

ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
30000 m/month

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 Product Introduction:

The product is manufactured according to the standard of GB/T17650-2008.

The product is used to connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage below 3kV for power supply. 

 

Operating Characteristics:

ØRated Voltage1.8/3~3.6/6kV

ØMin. Ambient Temperature: -40

ØNormal Operating Temperature90~250

ØMin. bending radius is no less than 30 times of cable thickness

 

Specification:

 

Voltage Class

Imbalance Rate of DC Resistance %

Length tolerance

DC Leakage Resistance 15.6Ω/km

Voltage Proof

No breakdown in 5 minutes

Insulation Resistance at 20

3kV

2

5‰

15uA/km

27kV/5min

2000

 

Type

No. of Cores

Nominal

cross-sectional area  mm²

No./Filament Diameter

DC resistance of Conductor

at 20

Nom. Thickness of Insulation mm

Nom. Thickness of Sheath mm

Cushion Thickness of Sheath mm

Armored

Oil-resistant

3kV

3kV

Clad

Clad

QYJYFTTX

3

10

1/3.67

1.83

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

13

1/4.12

1.38

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

16

1/4.60

1.15

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

20

1/5.18

0.84

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

QYJYEQ

QYJYFTQX

3

10

1/3.67

1.83

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

13

1/4.12

1.38

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

16

1/4.60

1.15

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

20

1/5.16

0.84

0.8

0.8

0.68

0.75

 

ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage

ESP Connect Cable connect power cable and electric submersible pump with rated voltage

Q:The specs say: 350 Watts, DC 12V, 100-240V. It is a Rackable server.Are there special / different power cables to use with servers than desktop PCs?Where can I find the power cable with the above specs. I tried OKorder with not much luck.
Nope. A 350 watt supply comes nowhere near drawing more than an ordinary household 15 AMP circuit can carry (about 3 AMPs at full load). Actually, rack-mount systems often draw less power than standard desktop systems if they are engineered correctly. An ordinary 3-prong plug (like those sold on all desktops in the US) will do just fine. As a rule of thumb, if the cord feels warm, consider a larger size.
Q:Recently I bought a EVGA Geforce 8800 GTS. When it came in, the card fits in my case but has 2 cables to plug in. I only have 1 cable to plug them in connected to my power supply. Should i only plug in 1, or is it nessesary? Is there an extra one I just dont know about? Please answer!
Might just be a double adapter cable. Just plug in 1 and see what happens. should work ok.
Q:Hi there - I had a Mr Bean moment when hooking up my DVR and camera during a house renovation project. Basically, I put the cables the wrong way around so that the ends that go in to the DVR are with the camera and the ends that are meant to be connected to the camera are with the DVR.
Not, it is not.
Q:Welding cable (230v) doesn't, so why would (14v) car audio cables
Voltage is not your main enemy when dealing with electricity. It's current or amps that are the main concern. You can think of it like a water hose, the V is the speed of the water, the A is the amount. Take Ohm's law for example. Say we have an amp that's producing 1000W With a 230V power system we have 4.3A, with a 14V power system we have 71A. That's a lot of amperage. Car power cables have a thick jacket to prevent shorts, shorts are bad. If you had a large cable going from one end of your car to the other, without a fuse. (lot's of people don't fuse correctly) If that cable comes in contact with the metal of the car it's going to short and that whole cable is going to get red hot and burn your car to the ground.
Q:will I be able to work this out without buying something extra? and if so what do I need to buy?
Your power supply should have the cable it needs. It has a 6+2-Pin so that you can snap it together to form an 8 pin.
Q:So I have a ordinary pc with a 500gb seagate hardrive in...and I have another seagate hardrive I want to put in (also 500gb) but do I need the sata power cable since it is not the main hardrive or can I only insert the Data cable for the harddrive since I didn't get any cables with my hardrive do I need need both cables, the Data and power cables or can only use the data cable ?
the cable is connected to your power supply - you don't get a separate cable with your hdd - usually those power cords have 2+ connectors so just see which one fits (one of them might already be connected to your dvd drive or w/e)
Q:I have one Ethernet cable running to a WiFi antenna. The antenna is powered by the Ethernet cable, using PoE. I want to be able to plug the current cable into a hub or switch, so I can connect other devices (non PoE) like an Xbox 360 or PC, but I also need to maintain the PoE to the antenna. Taking the antenna off PoE is not an option. What kind of device can I use to split this PoE line into PoE and non PoE cables?
The easy answer is that you need a POE switch. There's nothing really special about a POE cable, a POE enabled piece of equipment just uses the extra pins to provide the power. If you try setting up POE switch dumb switch antenna, the dumb switch will not forward the power to the Antenna. You can get a dumb switch, put it where your POE switch is now, then move your POE switch to wherever it is that you want to add equipment, and that should work if you don't want to spend the extra cash for another POE device. In that scenario, it's just a non-PoE connection from the regular switch to the new spot for the PoE switch, then PoE from that switch to the antenna, and the remainder of the devices will connect to the additional ports as non-PoE
Q:My system was working fine until today. The bass stopped hitting to the music and thumps in intervals of about 5 seconds regardless of whether the music is turned up or down. I hooked up my system without my capacitor to see if this was the problem. It worked...but only for a minute. The bass was hitting like it was suppose to but all of a sudden it went back to the interval thumping and the power cable got hot to the touch and the fuse inside the holder was melted. What the heck is the problem?
Not the fuse. You're power wire is too small to handle the load. For 800-1100 watts RMS systems use 4 AWG wire. The main fuse should be the sum of the fuse ratings on the amp.
Q:i cant drill a hole through the firewall because there's too much stuff in the way. so can i run the power cable to the power wire from the radio. the radio power wire is what im talking about. can i do that instead of running it to the battery? thanks
back interior the day whilst audio electronics became into evolving from monophonic sound to stereophonic sound, producers of stereo audio electronics precise the left channel enter for monophonic sound (in case you in elementary terms had one enter) and, if there became into no longer something plugged into the magnificent enter jack, the monophonic sound became into allotted to the two left and precise inputs. on condition that mono is fairly uncommon those days, i don't be conscious of if this continues to be everyday on stereo inputs (which includes powered subwoofers), yet you are able to try it. If it isn't the case (plugging it into the left enter purely is going interior the path of the left amplifier), no count in case you split the sign or no longer is in fact a wash. A subwoofer has 2 voice coils on the motive force, one powered by using the left enter and the different powered by using the magnificent enter. in case you purely have, say, the left enter plugged in, you're in elementary terms using the subwoofer with the left amplifier and voice coil. in case you split it, you're actually using the two voice coils. yet, the split itself cuts the sign point in 0.5. So, you have 0.5 as lots sign enter to each amplifier and the output quantity of the subwoofer heavily is not any distinctive than purely plugging in one enter. one element you are able to desire to do is to get a small, low-value stereo amp or receiver, plug the LFE output into one enter, set the amplifier mode to mono, and run the two line outputs to the subwoofer. that would desire to furnish you 2 complete line point inputs to the subwoofer from the only LFE cable.
Q:The monitor is ........ Since I have a HDMI cable will i need anything else?
An HDMI cable is not a power cable, it is only used to view the picture from whatever source it is.

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