Electro Galvanized Iron Wire in Factory And High Quality

Electro Galvanized Iron Wire in Factory And High Quality System 1

Electro Galvanized Iron Wire in Factory And High Quality

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 5 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 10000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:

Galvanized Iron Wire,Galvanized Steel Wire,Iron Wire

Cross Sectional Shape:

Round

Application:

Construction Wire Mesh,Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh,Decorative Mesh,Gabion Mesh,Window Curtain,Barbecue Wire Mesh,Cages

Type:

Galvanized

Wild in Width:

1.1M

Surface Treatment:

Black

Metal Wire Drawing:

Cold Drawing

Status:

Hard State

Thickness:

Metal Thick Wire

Galvanized Technique:

Electro Galvanized,Hot Dipped Galvanized

Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

1. Product data
1)Hot dipped galvanized iron wire
Material: Low carbon steel wire, through drawing and electric galvanizing
Wire gauge: 8# to 36# (3.8mm, 0.19mm)
Zinc coating: 45-120g
Properties: Dark color compared with electro galvanized, high production rate, thick galvanized coating, high anti corrosion, it can remain at least 10 years in our of door
Application: Because its thick coating, it has been widely used in our daily life for better fence protection. It widely used in chemical equipment, oil processing, Oceanic Exploration and Research, power transmission and so on.

2)Electro galvanized iron wire(cold galvanized iron wire)
Wire gauge: 8# to 38# (3.8mm, 0.15mm)
Zinc coating: 10-35g
Properties: The coating is uniform and smooth. Thin zinc coating, bright color
Application: Galvanized iron wire uses in weaving of wire mesh, fencing for expressway and construction

3)Galvanized binding wire
The material: High quality low carbon steel Q195
Technology: Electro Galvanized Iron Wire; Hot-dip Galvanized Iron Wire
Diameter: 0.2mm 5.0mm
Package: Small Coil or Large Coil, Spool Wire, straight cut wire or U type wire
Packing: Standard: 25kg/coil, 50kg/coil; Also according to customers request, like 0.5kg/coil, 1kg/coil, 5kg/coil, 10kg/coil, Pallet is available; Plastic inside and woven outside& Plastic inside and hessian outside

2. Product purpose
Products are widely used in construction, handicrafts, silk screen preparation, highway barrier, product packaging and daily civil, and other fields.

3. Range of application
The various production and research department of the national economy, for example: Machine manufacturing, electronics, precision instruments, chemical, light
Industry, transportation, weapons, aerospace, atomic energy, and so on.

4. Product advantage
Zinc plating thicker, crystallization meticulous, uniform and no pore, good corrosion resistance;
The zinc plating is pure, in acid, alkali corrosion slower, such as fog can effectively protect the steel substrate;
Zinc plating after chromate passivation form such as white, color, army green, beautiful and easy, have a certain decorative;
Because of the zinc coating has good ductility, therefore can be rushed, rolling, cold bending and forming and not damage the coating.

5. All kinds of packing for your reference
1). Package with plastic film
2). Package with woven bag
3). Package with hessian
4). Package with carton
Electro Galvanized Iron Wire in Factory And High Quality

If you have any need about galvanized wire, pls contact us any time.

Wire gauge	SWG(mm)	BWG(mm)	GB(mm)
8	4.06	4.19	4.00
9	3.66	3.76	--
10	3.25	3.40	3.50
11	2.95	3.05	3.00
12	2.64	2.77	2.80
13	2.34	2.41	2.50
14	2.03	2.11	--
15	1.83	1.83	1.80
16	1.63	1.65	1.65
17	1.42	1.47	1.40
18	1.22	1.25	1.20
19	1.02	1.07	1.00
20	0.91	0.89	0.90
21	0.81	0.813	0.80
22	0.71	0.711	0.70
23-37#are also supply

Q:Is lime wire any good????: it's ok i have only used the free version and you should try to limit yourself to downloading a few files at a time for optimal speed. Also I disable uploads to protect my computer. after you search, go to the right hand side where it tells you the modem speed and only select t1 or t3 or cable. this will get you in and out faster too.

Q:What are the types of Barbed wires?: depends upon which type of animal you wish to keep in the pen comes in many types and twists - each one different for the job that needs done some of the twists/patterns are for individual farmers - like a signature, its theirs alone - identifies their property lines - that doesn't include razortina wire - that is a whole different thing the tatoo stuff is made up - like a comic book, not real patterns google it for more details too many to type here

Q:Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Depending on the size of the hole in the beads, I usually run the wire down throw about 2 inches worth of beads; then crimp and clip. This also ensures that if the necklace if caught and pulled you have about 2 inches of slack before you are chasing beads on the floor. If you hole in the beads are small you can do two different things. 1) find a coordinating bead with larger holes that you can end the necklace with on both sides of the catch 2) Be sure your wire is running straight back down the original wire after going through the crimp, then crimp and clip.The end of the wire will be straighter and not tend to go out to the side and punch your neck. And unfortunately there is not a solution every time.

Q:My house is wired for surround sound. The wires coming out of the speakers holes are not labeled as far as i can tell but the wires that are coming out of housing that go into the back of the receiver are labeled 26,27,30,and 31. I cant tell which wires go to which speaker Front Left, Front Right, Rear left or Rear Right. Do these numbers mean anything?: Easy fix: Wire and mount all the speakers, without the grill if possible. The grill will be added later. Get an old 9v battery. Grab the first wire, like 26 for example and strip the wires back about 1/4 inch. and twist each wire. With a helper in the center of the room, tap the wire ends intermittently to the battery. DO NOT KEEP THE BATTERY WIRED TO THE SPEAKER FOR MORE THAN SHORT PERIODS OF TIME. 1-2 SECONDS ONLY. Have the helper tell which speaker is making noise. Have them move to that speaker and take note if the woofer is moving IN or OUT when making sound. If the woofer is moving OUT, take note which wire is touching the POSITIVE post of the battery and wire the speaker to the corresponding output on the receiver. If the woofer is moving IN during sound, switch the wires on the battery and mark the positive. The receiver should remain OFF during setup. Repeat these steps for all the speakers and mark the cables with speaker locations AND positive / negative I.D. with a small piece of tape for future reference. Replace the grills and power up the receiver to set the sound levels. Good luck.

Q:How do electric and other companies decide on strung wires in consideration of snowfall?: Snowfall is nothing...even birds on a wire add more weight than that. And like BillRussel said, the core is a steel wire for tensile strength that will handle the biggest force which is wind. Since electricity flows around outside a conductor better than going thru the core, it makes sense for them to surround the steel core with a lightweight , cheap, conductor like aluminum which only has to worry about conducting current and not with strength issues.

Q:Does anyone know what color the neutral safety wire is on a 1995 suburban? The one in the ignition harness.: The yellow wire on the ignition switch harness goes to the transmission range switch (aka park/neutral safety switch) on the transmission, and then the purple wire on the transmission range switch goes to the starter solenoid.

Q:Im cleaning up some of the wires in the engine bay and getting rid of ones i dont use. Right now theresthe pos side bat post runs down to the starter. From the starter there is a thicker wire and a skinny wire. In the thicker wire there is a wire that goes to the post on alternator. Both wires from starter run over to a relay maybe ithas a stud sticking out and has a wire that goes from the bottom of it to the fuse box. Im in middle of relocating the battery into the trunk so what wires can i eliminate and what wires have to go,to the battery?: Look okorder they have exactly what you need a new wiring harness. The one you have now is no good. That is whay its better to get something that works or put it back where it was save your money and get it done right. I have seen old fords chevy and dodges melt down all that happens is the wiring harness melts together because one wire got hooked up wrong and got so hot from the battery shorting it out that it melted all the rest of the wires from the battery to the fuse block. That is not what you want. I can also tell you there is a way to test the wiring before you jiggle it around the front to the back. But if you do not have a multi meter you cannot test or do it correctly. guessing is not a good plan. Find some one who know wiring and learn from them or leave it alone until you learn. opening the hood to find your car is on FIRE REALLY SUCKS.

Q:I'm just wondering would i be able to connect a split 8 gauge wire with wire nuts like i'll explain:Use two wire nuts instead of one and divide the copper wire on both ends and wire nut both sides together with 2 nuts. The whole apparatus would look kinda like this:----lt;gt;---- with the wire nuts connecting the two arrow thingsThanks anyone: Even though you had been wise to make use of the noalox, or antioxidant, i might ratehr endorse that you get the suitable gauge of wire in copper and rewire the entire circuit. The intent that I say that's that your oven is a excessive resistance circuit and aluminum does no longer like high resistance. With excessive resistance on aluminum, the aluminum wire will start running or moving under the strain and can eventually burn out the connection. In the event you have got to leave it aluminum, don't use a wire nut, but get a split nut from an electrical provide, use teh same goop on it, then get two wrenches for the best way that you just ought to screw the break up bolt to the nut, tighten the item down as tight as humanly viable, the wrap it with a specified tape that the electrical give may also have. It's not the commonplace electrical tape, but a stretchable tape and also you wrap it tight at the least 3 or a bit of extra inches on all sides of the nut. This may insulate the connection in order that it are not able to be shorted out in any respect. Mine had the same aluminum connection and when I changed the stove, which was difficult wired to the stove, I simply replaced the entire wire. Mainly the field is just not too some distance away fromthe stove due to the fact it wants to be as just about it to decrease resistance. To scan what you have got performed, that you would be able to take a low-cost volt meter from Radio shack, set it on the correct settings for measuring voltage on 220, and if the needle goes to 220 + or - a bit, you're nice in the meanwhile.

Q:What does the wire do for braces? What happens if you pull it out and everything else it ok?: The wire in the braces is what does the trick .... without the wire braces are just metal objects on your teeth doing nothing! The wire that is placed in the grooves of the braces gently pull your teeth into the desired position!!!

Q:Ceiling fan has a black wire, white wire, green wire and also a black and white wire.: The white wire from the fan gets connected to the white wire (neutral) in the ceiling box. The green wire is ground. It is connected to the fan mounting bar where the bare copper wire is connected. The remaining two wires are your hot wires. One goes to the fan and the other goes to the lights so you can run the lights on a dimmer circuit. I believe the black is for the fan and the black-white is for the lights. Your fan's instruction manual should identify these wires. IMPORTANT: Never run the fan motor on a standard dimmer. A dimmer is designed for use with resistive loads like incandescent, halogen, and (to some degree) LED lamps only. Running an inductive load like a fan motor will create noise spikes on your electrical circuit and possibly overheat the motor causing premature failure.

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