• Electro Galvanized  Iron Wire  For Chain Link Fence System 1
Electro Galvanized  Iron Wire  For Chain Link Fence

Electro Galvanized Iron Wire For Chain Link Fence

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
100 m.t./month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Spool, Reel, Coil,
Delivery Detail:2~5weeks

Specifications

1) Bright and smooth surface
2) Different coil weight available
3) Small tolerance on wire diameter
4)ISO approved



Product Description


Electro Galvanized Wire


1)Application:

This kind of industrial wire is mainly used in construction, making of wire nails and wire ropes, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving.

2) Material:

Carbon steel wire, mild steel wire

4) Surface:

Electro Galvanization

5)Diameter:

0.28mm~4.00mm

Tensile strength

320-500MPA

6) Technical Info:

Surface: hot-dipped zinc coated

     Tensile strength:340-500 N/mm2 for all sizes
      Elongation: Min. 10% for all sizes

7) Packing:

2kg~500kg, in small coils, big coils and on spool or drums

9) All can be produced according to customers’ actual requirement.


Q: Can I use 12-2 gauge wire on a 10 amp breaker to wire my light switches,and can I use 10 gauge wire on a 10 amp breaker? For a light fixture
YES ... always use 12gauge with a ground ; 10ga or 8ga is for 220volts .... you should use a 20amp breaker for light switches and a 30amp breaker for the wall plugs ... so as you know [[ to help you understand more about electrics --- the ele
Q: is it ok for a 32mm square THHN wire
wow,if this is the question,no offense,you need to hire a electrician also you can not use 90c rating unless lugs or breaker has a 90c rating.
Q: when wiring subs to different ohm levels, does is matter what kind of speaker wire you use to connect to the + and - terminals? i mean like gauge wise of the speaker wire and such.
the larger the wire the better the current move through it, i likeusing at least a 10 gauge, im using 8 right now its also harder to get them caught some were and break them
Q: I was re-wiring a light switch and a fan control knob and I accidentally cut a wire too short. This wire comes out the front of the fan dial and goes around to the back, connecting to another wire, thus placing a wire nut impossible. Can I just link the two ends together, then seal it with electrical tape? Or do I have to buy a new fan dial (which will cost $25, a cost I'm trying to avoid)? Will just the tape be safe enough?
You should go to Home Depot or an electric store and get some beans to connect them. The associate will tell you how to connect them. Or just youtube, 'beaning electric wire'
Q: Where can I purchase small wire of a large quantity that is similar to wire on cellular phone chargers?The wire im looking for needs to handle no mare than 12 volts.
Look okorder /
Q: I have a 2000 Subaru Outback, and I can get the thing working, but it does not save any of my settings. i know its my accessory wire because the radio will not turn on from any other wire.. soo help please
There are two wires that you must hook up. One is for continuous power so that the settings are saved, the other is for power to the radio. If you had purchased your equipment from Crutchfield, you would have gotten free installation instructions and a wiring harness that would hook directly to your Subaru wiring - saving you a great deal of time and trouble.
Q: Both wires are black. One has what looks like white paint on it.
correct.....both can be hot, as they may have been cris crossed from point to point. the best is to get a volt meter and test to your water pipe if its grounded and not eroded away over the years. problem with using an inductance tester is it may give an erroneous reading if they have been cris crossed. note.....once you find the hot of the two, the other bing the neitral will have a current on it that can be fatal, remember there is no ground to protect you, and if your in water or touching something metallic, you may be the ground path needed to complete the circuit. be careful!
Q: How are wired differ from wireless doorbells,next how are they installed and finally the cost of them?
just remember that while wireless may cost less, you have to have a wire from the outside button to the door bell itself and then you still have to have a way to power it. i have the wireless, it's idiot proof. a couple of batteries and your off and running. standard batteries like D's and maybe AA's good luck to ya. you can get a good variety at home depot or lowe's
Q: what size of wire do i need and is the new fuse box/trip box kept in garage.or where can i get wiring diagrams from
Depends if you plan on running welder or welders,lights of course and an air compressors,you requir 220 to 240 volts,the breaker box should be in your garage,now go to the welding store,or tractor supply and get 10 gauge wire,might as well get a small spool of it cause you're gonna need it,depending on the size of your garage,i own my own auto body shop and my 8 employes are either welding or running the air compresers to shoot a car,now my shop can hold 6 cars maximum inside,others stay out side,+ they're under constant survalance watch,along with the shop and my office,so theres more power being drawn there to,my electric bill is around $1,900 a month,give or take,find someone that knows what they are doing a bit with electrical work,a buddy or something,it's hard to say what it would cost with not knowing what your garage will be used to do.
Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.
Here is the way to get rid of the scratchy wire: Take the wire on through the crimp bead and thread it down into the beads, and then crimp the wire. If you have a little wire sticking out there on down between the beads, just bend back the beads, and clip it with your jewelry wire cutters that have a side edge. Be sure and cut your wire with a couple inches to spare so you have enough wire to attach the clasp and thread the wire down. I was having trouble with the crimp bead scratching, no matter how I crimped it. I found out that they sell a crimp cover. It looks like an open clam shell, and you just slip it over the crimp bead, and close it with pliers. Beware, there is something called a clam shell, but it has a eye on it, it is for non-metal stringing materials. Another thing I found was a little tiny horseshoe called a guide. It goes above the crimp bead, and holds the clasp. It protects the wire from the wear and tear of the clasp. And it is so easy to pull the wire through it once it is on, you can adjust the length of the wire over and over. I was literally stuffing the wire down into the beads with a pliers. No more! Just pull on the end, and down the wire goes. No more ugly lengths of wire between the beads and the crimp bead. I found both these items in gold and silver colors, at Michaels, and Craft etc on line, and on other online sites. So, save the glue for working with elastic cord and gluing a bead over the knot to hide it.

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