Ductile Iron Soft Seal Swing Check Valve

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Specifications

Swing Check Valve

PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Q: I have a question over my car. When a valve cover gasket(s) has a leak, will it still leak even after car has been off for a few days. It has also been starting to smoke after it has been on for 5 minutes. I don't move it. Thanks.: Valve covers leak and the oil runs down the motor so it can drip off of the motor while sitting. The oil also gets on the exhaust manifold which will smoke even with a small amount of oil dripping on it. It's a fire hazard and doesn't cost much to repair.

Q: I have a 66' malibu el camino with a 283 sbc and a powerglide transmission! I have bee noticing a ticking noise on the motor and it miss kind at a rhythm. I took the valve covers off and noticed pieces of metal right by the front of the motor on the head. It is where the #1 piston is. Some of them have kind of a rounded off shape to them. I dont see anything wrong with the springs. but its dark and i cant really see. I also noticed on the even side 2/4/6/8 some of the rocker arms are loose? Some may be loose on the odd side too. not sure, i didnt check them. I found them right where the hole is where im guessing where the oil comes in. What do yall think? It idles kind of rough and i have noticed a loss of power? do i have broken valve springs or something? Thanks for the answers!!!!: my first guess is that are the valve keepers , little pieces of curved metal that keep the springs compressed on the valve stem. there are 2 per valve stem.. if the eng was over rev-ed, the valves can float and let go of the keepers. one keeper could stay in place and still hold the valve. if this is the case , you could drop a valve at any time and hole a piston. or it could be the end of one of the springs. or even a broken valve guide .From what you said and the eng missing on one cylinder i would be reluctant to run the eng until you found out. or the rounded shape could be the top of a push rod that is broken off , they are dome shaped. You can look at the keepers and the push rods by loosening the rockers so you can turn them aside to view the keepers . at the top of the valve stem to make sure they are all in place. as well a look at the push rods. So loosen all the rockers and see what you find. if you need more info about how it all works . you can find videos on youtube . like how to adjust valves on V 8 eng and how to replace Valve springs push rod replace rocker arms stuff like that and you find videos that will show you the keepers , valve guides etc. you can looosen the and remove the rocker arms without anything coming apart , so you dont have to worry about that. i guess we know what you will be doing this weekend , haha

Q: I need a ball valve that when you shut it off it sends a signal to a light that indicates that it is off.: Shouldn't be a problem. all that's needed is a valve with elect contacts on valve stem. should be able to get one with two sets of contacts for on and off...

Q: Just wanted to know what the significance of the number of valves is?I know that theres valves for intake and exhaust if i'm correct.if there is four i'm guessing its 1 for air and 1 for fuel if its fuel injected. and 2 for exhaust?are there bikes with 3 valves or more than 4 valves and why?and a basic carburated 2 stroke just has an intake from the carb side and then an exhaust.please give me more info and let me know if i'm correct or not.: 3 valves: 2 intake, 1 exhaust (Honda CM400/450, for example) 4 valves: 2 intake, 2 exhaust (very common) 5 valves: 3 intake, 2 exhaust (some Yamaha sport-bikes) 8 valves; 4 intake, 4 exhaust (Honda NR bikes only) Multiple valves allow much greater flow at partial valve openings, when flow is dependent on total valve circumference, rather than total valve area; Multiple valves each weigh less, allowing a higher rev ceiling without valve float;

Q: I went to turn the water off with the shut-off valve so that I could do some work on the toilet tank (replacing old and leaky fill valve) but the water won't shut off. I'm assuming that I'll need to replace the shut-off valve itself but could anything else be causing the problem? The funny thing is, the leaky fill valve that I wanted to replace has now stopped hissing and leaking and the tank seemingly fills fine. But of course the water can't be turned off completely.Just wanted to check make sure that there aren't anything else I should do or consider before I went off to replace the shut-off valve.Thanks: No. Very simply if the toilet shut-off valve doesn't stop the water flow, it is faulty and should be replaced. However, the shut-off valve is only used to service the toilet, and if your toilet is operating okay, don't mess with it. If you're not that ambitious, the next time you need to service the toilet would be an opportune time to change the valve. Good luck and God Bless!! Steve

Q: I have a T4-T10 and L5-S1 spinal injury and I recently found out that my tricuspid and my mitral valves leak. I have never had heart problems before I got the spinal injury. Do you think the valve leaks could have been from the trauma when I received the spinal injury?: Maybe but usually MVP doesnt give people much problems and if it does usually sudden

Q: Can anyone tell me what is the industrial application for globe valve?? Please help. I tried to search in the Net but couldn't get.: The web page of the attached link has some good section drawings of the various valve types. Whereas ball and gate valves are designed as shut-off valves, and only operate efficiently fully closed or fully open, Globe valves, due to their internal design, can operate fairly efficiently in a partially open position to throttle or control the flow rate of liquids. They are used to control flow rates when mixing fluids or in batching operations where the fluid flow may need to continuously adjusted. The valves can be operated manually or automatically depending on the process.

Q: My third valve won't move at all. I haven't played my trumpet in a while and I tried to oil it to get it to unstick but it still won't move at all. People say to screw it off but I can only unscrew the little cap at the bottom of the valve where you push in, not the white button at the top. Help please! Thank you so much! =]: i got here across that Dennis Wick valve oil is a procedures more advantageous ideal to any that I easily have used. you'll locate it on Amazon. If cleansing with dish cleansing soap and heat water would not artwork, alongside with the Dennis Wick oil, I recommend that you're taking it to a restoration shop. be careful at the same time as cleansing now to not get any cork or felt moist. only dip the truly valve section into the water.

Q: is there any way to buy refills for empty valve oil bottles, such as holton or al cass: I wouldn't bother with that. I would go to Woodwind/Brasswind, and get their brand of valve oil. Very economically sound, and a very good product. Why go to all the trouble of getting bulk stuff and trying to put it into those little bottles. Get the company brand stuff. It works wonderfully and is half the price. Sometimes you pay for the names al cass, or holton, when all you are getting is just oil.

Q: Hi, this is a part 2 question to the one I posted last night. After turning the water shut off valve on my toilet back on, it didnt start to hammer till about 1 min pasted. When the hammering is happening I look in the toilet tank and see air bubbles coming out of the base of the fill valve and the water coming out of the fill tube isn't smooth and flowing its kinda step wise/ in intervals. I forgot to mention that I live in an apartment, does this affect anything?My official question is, is this an air bubble problem or is it a rubber gasket/ rubber seat problem?This is a new building only about 2 yrs old, so parts can't be that bad right?: First check for a kinked or twisted supply connector hose. You may also have a piece of rubber gasket/washer debris stuck in the valve body (seat washer) or in the fill valve itself (from the connector compression washer). Shut off the water supply at the angle stop and disconnect the supply hose from the fill valve nipple under the toilet tank. Get a bucket and put the end of the supply connector hose/tube into the bucket and open the supply valve again. If it still hammers when unrestricted like this, the obstruction is in the anglestop valve body. The water pressure may force it out, but if it doesn't, you'll have to shut off your main water supply to clean the stop or replace it. If it doesn't hammer when unrestricted, the problem is now in the new fill valve, and is probably a deteriorated piece of the compression washer in your old supply connector hose or tube that has been pushed into the fill valve. Since it's a Fluidmaster, you can disassemble the head of the valve and remove any visible obstruction or just replace the top part.

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