• Ductile Iron Ball check valve System 1
Ductile Iron Ball check valve

Ductile Iron Ball check valve

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Specifications

Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

Q:I was woundering if anyone had a repair manual for this valve on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. I just bought the car and Im getting the P1800 Code. Any help would be appreciated!
This is NOT a very serious problem. You have an ADJUSTABLE intake runner on this engine. THere is a vacuum operated CONTROL valve very visible with the hood open. It SHIFTS a doorway within the manifold to alter the path of incoming air. THere is a SOLENOID that controls this FLAP IT ALSO is easy to find in plain view if you follow the VACUUM to the valve. Many times ths VACUUM hose itself has collapsed, a VERY cheap repair. WOrst case scenario is to repalce either the SOLENOID or the actual VALVE. It has a rubber diaphragm within it. JUNK yards may have good used ones. You can remove the VACUUM to this valve, and try sucking on it to see if the valve MOVES the flap[ hidden inside the INTAKE MANIFOLD. EZ test, EZ fix. GOOD LUCK!!
Q:how long do people usually live after mitral valve repair?
From what i've got study having it repaired rather than replaced has a much greater helpful restoration consequence. The survival fee is in the mid ninety's % clever so curiously like an rather secure surgical operation. Hoping she has a rapid restoration.
Q:Specifically, what is the mechanism which leads to pressure drops in expansion valves?
THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVE A temperature-regulated valve that controls the amount of restriction to refrigerant flow between the receiver/drier and evaporator. Like the Fixed Orifice Tube, the Expansion Valve is the boundary between the High and Low sides of the refrigerant system. Unlike the Fixed Orifice, the Expansion Valve can regulate the flow of liquid refrigerant to the evaporator to either increase or decrease evaporator cooling based on the temperature of the refrigerant tube at the evaporator outlet. In vapour compression ref. cycle,The condensed liquid refrigerant, in the thermodynamic state known as a saturated liquid, is next routed through an expansion valve where it undergoes an abrupt reduction in pressure. That pressure reduction results in the adiabatic flash evaporation of a part of the liquid refrigerant. The auto-refrigeration effect of the adiabatic flash evaporation lowers the temperature of the liquid and vapor refrigerant mixture to where it is colder than the temperature of the enclosed space to be refrigerated.
Q:I have replaced the rubber washer in the valve and when I pull up on the float arm everything seems to stop then shortly thereafter air bubbles start coming out of the bottom of the fill tube. How could air be getting thru the valve without water which would cause the shutoff valve to tighten?
Maybe the Flapper in the bottom is not seating itself all the way down. Also you can adjust the ball. If that does not work, GENTLY place a CLEAN Brick in the toilet bowl. Be sure not to drop the brick as it will crack the tank. Good luck.
Q:I recently broke the valve cap on my tuba and i was wondering if any of you guys knew where to buy a new one or how much it would be.
you okorder has alot of things but i don't know if they sell separate pieces. Best thing to do is to go to your local music store and tell them and let them find you one,
Q:My fiance needs his aortic valve replaced. He is 40 yrs old otherwise healthy. I am wondering how long he will be in surgery, how long he be in the hospital and any other info about having this surgery.
This is major heart surgery that is done on bypass (cardiopulmonary bypass, meaning the heart and lung machine. This is very serious. He may be in the hospital for a week or more. He may need cardiac rehab to gradually be able to do simple things.
Q:I have a 99 Yamaha Warrior 350 and i am needing to take it and get the valves adjusted. I know prices will range from state to state but what would be the average price to take and get them adjusted?? Just the valves not including if they had to change the seals or anything.. Thanks(PS im a girl so put it in simple words!)
The link below shows what the valves are. The adjustment to them requires loosening #13, and then turning #12 such that the valves #1 2 are within the proper specification. To do this requires disassembly, then measurement and adjustment, and finally reassembly. This can range from 1.5 to 3 hours depending on various reasons. So, estimate 3 x [Labor Rate], whereas [Labor Rate]s vary from shop to shop, and I've seen from $65 to $120.
Q:I'm using a Yamaha double horn, and I reeeeeeealllyyyyy need to work on an audition for Monday. But my second valve is coming up slowly, which is a huge trouble 'cause all the pitches sound wrong!What do I do? I tried oiling the valve, that hasn't worked.
Your second valve sounds like its gummed up. This can happen when the slide grease from your slides is washed into your valve. The greasy valve moves ok when there is lots of kerosene like oil to lubricate it, but when that oil dries out you end up with a slow moving valve. I had to remove my valves completely and clean them thoroughly to relieve my slow valves condition. Another less likely scenario is your valve spring is weak, or the valve string is not tight enough, but its much more likely that its due to insufficient oiling and/or a gummed up valve.
Q:Is there a way to test the EGR valve to see if its still good ? and working right .
Yes there is. Disconnect the rubber hose on top of the EGR valve. Connect a hand-held vacuum pump to this fitting. Start the engine. Slowly apply vacuum to the fitting on the valve. While applying vacuum with the engine running at idle speed, the idle speed should drop or the engine may even stall. In that case the valve is working. If the engine speed doesn't change, the EGR valve may be defective, or EGR tube may be plugged with carbon, or the passages in the intake and exhaust manifolds may be plugged with carbon. In this case remove the EGR valve from the engine. Again apply vacuum to the EGR valve and observe the stem on the EGR valve. If the stem is moving, it can be assumed that the EGR valve is ok. In that case clean the EGR tube and the intake and exhaust manifolds passages Hope this will help you.
Q:I got a cold air intake installed on my vehicle and don't have any AEM bypass valve installed, for preventing hydrolock. If I drill a small hole(e.g 1cm) on the intake(short ram section) can that prevent hydrolock or do I still have to get one of those bypass valves?I'm looking for any alternatives, instead of those AEM bypass valves and was wondering if drilling a small hole in the cold air intake could help in preventing hydrolock, just as good as the AEM bypass valve.
Only version 1 of the AEM CAI's could even use the bypass valve. Version 2 will not work with this bypass. This bypass valve is pressure sensitive and set up to open if the air flow was blocked at the filter. It also has a foam filter on it to still give you some filtration of the air. You do not want to drill a hole in the intake. This will allow unfiltered air to enter your intake and reduce the efficiency of the intake system. I'm not sure what kind of car you have this system on, but on my Accord, the filter was moved down inside the front bumper just in front of the drivers tire. It is surrounded by plastic and has minimal chance of any water splashing in to it. The only way I can see water getting to it is if I were to try and drive in to a large Pool of water in which it would have to be higher than the floor of the car. Anyone who would even attempt such a thing would be a fool in the first place for trying to run through such high water. If you have the Version 1 AEM, get the bypass valve. Don't drill holes. If you have the Version 2 which can not use this valve, just don't try to use your car as a boat. You shouldn't have any problems. TGP

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