Double Flanged Eccentric Soft Seal butterfly valve

Double Flanged Eccentric Soft Seal butterfly valve

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Specifications

Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

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Q: I need a ball valve that when you shut it off it sends a signal to a light that indicates that it is off.: Never okorder /

Q: ok so my 1993 bonneville started shaking and its smells like gas fumes in the car, so i cant drive it cause i have a newborn baby.so i took it to the dealership, they said codes 53,54,55,42,66 came up. they said i needed a new cadiletic converter, so i went to a local muffler shop. they said it was glowing cause it was so hot and said that wasnt the problem.i called the dealership back and they said they cleaned the egr vavle but said maybe it needs to be replaced, well before i spend any money i wanted to get everyones opinion, the car drive great, only shake when ur at idle. and smells awful inside uld this be the egr valve ?: A catalytic converter will glows red hot when raw fuel is introduced directly into it. The dealer is incorrect in saying that there is a problem with the converter itself. The problem is stemming from either the fuel or ignition system which would allow unburned fuel to pass through to the converter. Some possibilities are improper ignition timing, fouled spark plugs, air pump failure, Even though the catalytic converter glowing red hot is not caused from a clog if the converter is operated too long at a high temperature, its substrate will melt and re-harden. This would in turn cause exhaust blockage. Fix the fuel problem first and if the engine is still running rough (without a red hot converter), then it will need to be replaced.

Q: Hi all,My 1995 nissan altima (122k on the odometer) stalled for a few minutes this morning. I noticed that one of the sparkplug holes ( where the cable from the distributer connects to the spark plug) is sorrounded by oil. I cleaned it out and it got filled with oil again. luckily for me, and by god's grace it somehow started normally and i drove home. I am sure its the valve gasket. There is not much oil leakage, the oil level is fine.I need to know if its going to damage my engine if I ignored the problem for 3-4days.Thanks.: The part itself is less than $100. It's a little rubber gasket that goes inbetween the valve cover and the engine block to make a tight seal between the middle and top of the engine. Depending on which engine you have (the 4 or the V-6), it can be a VERY simple fix with about an hour's labor because the valve cover is on top. However, some (very few) cars require you to remove the motor to get to the cover. If this is the case, 7 hours seems about right.

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Q: I am trying to bench bleed my master cylinder on a 94 altima...the directions state to attach the bleeding hoses to the outlet valves?? I haver four valves that merely state front or rear??: The outlet valves are the bleeder valves behind the wheels the ones you open up when your bleeding the system.But to bleed the master cylinder mount it to the car and then fill master cylinder and then screw in the bleeder hoses at the locations where the metal lines hook up to the master cylinder and bend the hoses around back around to the top of the master cylinder so when your bleeding the master cylinder the brake fluid goes back into the top of it to get the air out of it.Then hook up your brake lines back to the master cylinder and bleed out the rest of the system to the wheels.Usually when doing this you start with the right rear bleeder behind that wheel but have someone there to pump on the pedal even when your bleeding the master cylinder first and then you do the rest of the system.On some cars bleeding the rest of the system starts with sometimes different wheels like the front and or the back.But on a usual bases you generally start with the right rear then the left rear and then the right front then the left front.But by bleeding the system check with a shop to find out what the bleeding steps are to bleeding the wheels outs at the valves each car is almost different to do.But the master cylinder is the easiest to start with when it comes to bleeding it but watch out when going to hook up the brake lines back to it because some brake lines are hard to hook up and what I mean by this the fiitting might get cross threaded when putting them

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