• Double flanged  Metal Seal eccentric butterfly valve System 1
  • Double flanged  Metal Seal eccentric butterfly valve System 2
  • Double flanged  Metal Seal eccentric butterfly valve System 3
Double flanged  Metal Seal eccentric butterfly valve

Double flanged Metal Seal eccentric butterfly valve

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Specifications

Double flanged Double Eccentric Butterfly Valve
PN10/16/25
DN100 ~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

                                              EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Q:what are the symptoms of bad egr valve??? My car is shaking on idle.. Tune up with all has already been done.
Have the vehicle's computer tested for free at VIP Auto,AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts and see what trouble codes it shows while check engine light is on.
Q:I don't have one single water shutoff valve in my house that will shut anything off completely. It looks fairly easy to repack them, and I have the tools, and there are instructions all over the internet. The question I have for the experienced among you is what packing material do I use? I have heard graphite thread and teflon tape and even joint compound.Is one better than the other? Easier to use?Also, if there are any pitfalls I should know about before I undertake this, please advise.Thanks in advance!
Well if you talking about the water shutoff valves under sinks then you need to first shut off the water comming into the house at the main shutoff valve near the street , Or at a line comming into the house that connects up to the valve you are trying to fix or you may take a slight bath while trying to fix the valve that wont shutoff. Then Go to the shutoff valve you want to repair in that line where you shut the water off at and unsrew the handle at the base of the handle shaft using two wrenchs to hold both the nut on the shaft while using the other to hold the shutoff valve .this will prevent twisting the valve right off the connecting lines. Most of the time you will find it has a rubber gromet attached by a screw to the handle shaft.this is what you need to replace with a new rubber gromet which you can get in an assortment box at wal mart or homedepot or lowes for a low price. If you are using teflon thread or jointcompound you are repairing a Pipe joint leak where water is leaking externally of the pipe,not a shutoff valve leak .
Q:Does anyone know what those valves are/do in my picture?http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00531it9.jpg
I'm a licensed Plumber and this is what those are for....if you doubt me contact Delta and speak with their customer service reps... Those are Isolation valves that plumbers use to turn off the water to you shower to make repairs within the shower valve its self (O rings...mixing cartridge, etc).....otherwise the water would have to be shut off to the whole house when making a repair. That and if you look closely they are NOT part of the valve its self....the look like valves that are attached (Threaded) to the Hot Cold inlets on the valve. My first guess...that is a Delta, Monitor, Shower Valve. Maybe a Moen positemp...but I'm pretty sure its a Monitor Series Delta valve. They're are BOTH very similar.
Q:I want to put a blow off valve in my car to make it sound cool lol but i dont have a turbo yet ... do i even need one?
yes, you need one if you don't have a wastegate
Q:Specify eight technical requirements that you would consider important, when deciding upon a particular control valve?
1] I assume that by control valve you mean a variable orifice valve, not an on/off valve. 2] An answerer to your other question listed Metallurgy, temperature, pressure and shutoff requirement To which I note that if you need a tight shutoff you should not trust a control valve to do that, but should add an on/off valve in series. Also, metallurgy covers corrosion requirements but not obviously so 3] To which I add: flow rate [or Cv] and pressure drop fail open or fail closed response time signal input [3-15 psi, 4-20 mA, 1-5V, etc] connections [ie, fitting type] packed vs sealed might need to look at hard seat materials and/or replaceable seats, to control erosion reliability, ease of maintenance, availability of spares, timing on that vendor permanence [ie, are they entering bankruptcy ?] Cost
Q:where can i get my Idle air control valve cleaned on a 84 celica supra
There should be a VECI map under your hood that shows you where this valve is located. In a pinch, find a Haynes manual or a Robert Bentley manual that has pictures in it. If you can find the valve, you can clean it yourself with a can of spray Gum-out. While you're at it, clean the throttle body and PCV valve, too. Hopefully, you have had the good sense to have used only genuine Toyota coolant in this car, since Toyota heads require a special coolant formulation to prevent aluminum deterioration. More older Japanese engines are ruined with improper coolant than I can write about here. Sensor damage is caused as well! You might take your car to the Toyota dealer and ask them to clean out the valve for you. Since this is only a 2 minute job, they just might do it for free. If they do, at least offer to tip the technician under the table. Be sure to power wash your entire engine bay before you take the car in. They will LOVE you for this!!!
Q:Looking at a few marshall amps and i came across this whole valve amp thing. I've heard about it before, but never really understood it. What types of valves are there?! (i think i've heard of power amp valve) and what type of marshall amps have valves?! Can some of them be part valve and then have that valvestate thing?! :s all pretty damn confussing Cheers
Marshall were big name in Amps when pretty well everything electronic used valves. Some valves were quite small, some larger, and some are still used today in powerful transmitters. There are those who swear that the sound produced by a valve amplifier is far better than a solid state one. Valve technology takes up much more space than solid state, so miniaturisation is a problem, and also uses much more power and produces a lot of heat. Now solid state is capable of producing high power audio amplifiers which use less power and take up less space, so have become the preferred method. Nevertheless, there is a strong following even today for a good high powered valve amplifier. And yes, it is quite possible to have a valve and solid state mix. The solid state works at the input stage, and the valves take over at high power output levels, but I am not sure what the purists would think about this hybrid usage .
Q:I have adjusted the valve clearance twice, I still have a noise on the #2 cylinder intake. What might be causing this?
valve adjustment was not done properly or too much cam wear. These M30 engines are difficult to valve adjust. I would take it to dealer - the adjustment must be done with engine cold.
Q:i need to know the setting of the valve and a little advice on the up and down of the valves
As Bob said, you had probably best bite the financial bullet and get someone experienced to do it. With the bucket over shim designs, the shim you need to change is underneath the bucket, the device that rides against the camshaft. To change the shims, you have to remove the camshafts and when you replace them, you must get them timed exactly right or else you can have pistons hitting valves..not good at all. They put the shim under the bucket to keep the cam from spitting the shims out through the valve cover at high rpms. The older 2 valve 900-1000-1100-1300 Kaws have shim over bucket and can be changed with a special $20 tool, a little screwdriver and small magnet . However, you might consider getting a shop manual and checking the valve clearance yourself. If all are within specs, then there is no need to take it to a shop. My old KZ1000 went something like 110,000 miles and only need two shims changed in all that time, so your bike could very well be ok.
Q:i have got a problem with the valve but i have some guy gonna try and clean it next week. i have heard of blanking plates. has anyone used one of these? do they make any difference in the way the car goes ?
Ford Mondeo Egr Valve Problems

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