Double Flanged Butterfly Valve

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Quick Details

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Structure: Butterfly
Pressure: Low Pressure
Power: Manual
Material: CI,DI,SS,WCB,etc.
Temperature of Media: Normal Temperature
Media: water,gas,oil,etc.
Port Size: DN40-1200
Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)
Model Number: D341X-10/16QB1

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Standard export packaging(plywooden case) or as per customers' requirements.
Delivery Detail:	within 15-30 days after the receipt of L/C or 30% deposit

Specifications

1.DN40-1200mm(2"~48")
2.PN: 1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5MPa
3.Design Standard: ANSI, AWWA C504.
4.CI,DI,SS,WCB,etc.
5.rubber lined.

Product Description

Brief introduction:
1. Good performance of sealing in both directions, small torque.
2. Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

3. Flange connection for convenient installation, suitable for vertical and horizontal type.
4. Variety of sealing materials.
5. The valve can be used as air release valve at pipe end, reliable performance.

6. The integration of seat ring and body brings long service life.

Performance:

PN (MPa)	DN (mm)	test pressure(MPa)		temperature °C	media
		shell	sealing
1.0	50 ~ 1000	1.5	1.1	-10 ~ +120	Water, oil, air, etc.
1.6		2.4	1.76

Standard:

Design	Face to Face	End Flange	Inspection and Testing
ANSI, AWWA C504	ISO5211	DIN PN10/16/25 ANSI B 16.1 BS4504 ISO PN10/16 JIS B 2212/2213 BS 10 table D BS 10 table E	API 598

Design

Face to Face

End Flange

Inspection and Testing

ANSI, AWWA C504

ISO5211

DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1

BS4504

ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598

Materials list:

Name	Body	Disc	Stem
Material	ductile iron, cast iron + rubber (nitrile rubber, EPDM)	ductile iron, copper, stainless steel	stainless steel

Name

Body

Disc

Stem

Material

ductile iron, cast iron + rubber (nitrile rubber, EPDM)

ductile iron, copper, stainless steel

stainless steel

Q: The timing belt in my 93 honda accord went out going about 45mph,i then paid someone 150 dollars to put in the new timing belt and it began to shake and he told me that the valves were bent.....i went to a local mechanic and he told me that the valves in honda accords dont bend...is this true?and how much is an average cost to repair the valves and pay someone to do all this?can i do it myself?: hey, the same thing happened to my car ok, you can fix it but it will take you a lot of time first, you will need to remove all the components such as alternator, exhaust headers , intake and head cover since you paid to get the belt put on, go ahead and mark it with a white out pen so you know where each tick mark goes and you dont have to pay again now you will need a deep 14 inch socket and a torque wrench ( can be borrowed from autozone ) now remove the 14 bolts carefully and lift the head straight up now that you have the head out, it is a good time to replace the head gasket as well take the head to a local machine shop and have it rectified now in a closed area remove the valves and valve covers and put in new ones then its just a matter of putting everything back together I wish I could help you cuz I know it sucks when this happens But go ahead and buy the Chilton book at your local Autozone and it has step by step instructions I took me about a week the first time I did this, and i was just a novice trying to avoid big charges :)

Q: I am working on my riding mower Briggs and Stratton 15.5 OHV. After replacing my headgasket my intake valve did not move when I turned shaft by hand. I took it back apart and believe I have my pushrods positioned correctly but cannot seem to get the rockkers back over the valves and rods. Maybe its because I am a girl and just need to man up but I thought it should be easier. Anyone got any tips?: you'll need to get the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve, usually it's in the range of .060 - .080. then remove the nut from your rocker arm, install the rocker arm onto the pushrod, and valve spring (reminder, engine should be at top dead center) then reinstall the nut,and set your valve clearance.

Q: Is there a more technically correct name for a valve that slowly opens, allowing increased pressure in a water line without blowing the end off?: I've always known them to be simply called motorized valves, but they aren't specifically made to prevent instantaneous pressure build up. They are usually installed as a convenience type of thing and in lieu of solenoid valve which WOULD be an almost immediate full pressure situation, but any valve other than a solenoid activated one will allow for slow build up of pressure. A motorized valve just lets you do it automatically and you don't have to be right at the valve location to open it. Al

Q: is it possible to check valve to piston clearance with out taking the heads off? I want to buy a bigger camshaft for my 351 windsor stock pistons with 1970 heads. cam is 230 duration (280) and 512 lift: No you can't check the valve to piston clearance without taking the heads off. I had a 289 bored out to 351 and ran stock 351 pistons. So your stock pistons should work with the new camshaft. I know I'm a girl but my husbands a mechanic and for fun we rebuild muscle cars.

Q: Movers messed up the valve so hose won't screw in w/o leaking: Buy a new valve at an appliance parts outlet. Make sure it's the right one. Many times they will come with instructions. Unplug the unit. Shut off the water and remove the hoses. Remove the back panel to access the valve. Remove the old broke valve and replace it with the new one. Replace the panel. Attach the hoses and turn on the water. Check for leaks. Plug in the unit and give it a test. Try all the temperature settings. Congratulations. You are now a professional..

Q: okay, where the dome is on the head (where the flat part of the valves sit) the intake is uneven and the air+gas mixture escapes threw the open space when the piston goes up into the compression stage, and ignites shooting flames out of my exhaust port. the space is small but u can see light threw it when the valve sits there. Would some kind of Liquid metal work? or gas+heat resistant epoxy work to take the place of the missing space? I would file it but that would not be precise and time consuming, and i would buy a new head for $150, but the dealer doubles that price! and no way am i paying $300 for a new head. any comments would be well appreciated!: take bike to dealer and get it fixed right.

Q: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0L Fuel Injected has EGR Valve, I can suck and blow through the hose connected to it, an I supposed to be able to do this, or not...? It looks old, like it's been on the car forever...: It recirculates the fumes and the air--but a cracked hose is a nightmare if vacuum leak develops--fix it--just get a new hose and happy motoring

Q: I Have a 2001 Honda Accord 3.0 V6. Would a clogged EGR valve cause it to run rough and have problems starting up when it is warm? It also runs hot. I have replaced the thermostat and the cooling fan relay? What could cause all of this? PLEASE HELP!: The V6 EGR valve was a big problem in those years, but a clogged one would not cause your problems. The EGR tubes regularly clogged with carbon and caused the Check Engine light to come on because there was no EGR flow. Your problem could be caused by a hung open EGR but that's unlikely as well as the Check Engine light would also be on if the valve is open all the time. Need more information on what the conditions are under which the car is not starting. need to know what you mean by problems starting up when warm. Does it happen all the time? What is warm? how long is the car driven for to get it warm; how long does the car sit before you try to restart it? what happens when you try to restart it? What is the fuel level in the gas tank? What are the outside conditions--temperature and humidity? What is the maintenance history on the car? how many miles are on the car? any answers and information you can provide will help narrow down the possibilities. Right now, its just guessing. hope that helps

Q: What are the benefits of changing new cylinder heads and exhaust valves in the Main engine of the vessel? I am now studying a vessel which has a problem with their main engine. Frequent repair of cylinder heads (they usually weld it) and exhaust valves are the ones they do. I need to further give the benefits to be submitted to the vessel's management for them to buy new cylinder heads and exhaust valves as a replacement for the welded ones.: The only reason to change out a cylinder head is because the exhaust valves have been burnt or the valves in general have been used to a point they don't seat any longer. Which means the engine compression to fire the cylinders on compression stokes is too low to be efficient to operate. Or the cylinder head has a crack in it and leaks water or the compressed gasses from the engine compression blow into the water jacket through the cracks causing the coolant to blow out and the engine to overheat.

Q: I know i have to buy a recirculating valve but should i drop 250 on the perrin or will any brand do? how important is a high quality BOV?: Go with the APS blow off valve. As for the idiot who said name doesn't matter, let him go buy a $20 BOV and have i the diaphragm start leaking at idle and cause tons of driving issues.

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